Cars are easy, You're welcome 😊👍

You're very welcome Mr X 🍺😎👍

What about the other side?? with the DSG and the long bolt with no clearance??

There must be some way, but I don't know, as my car is manual - plenty of space... and reliability 😉 But to be serious, somebody already commented about it. I don't know what is the clearance.. Maybe remove pendulum support and push it forward a bit?

You're welcome 😊

Comments like yours give me motivation to keep making new content 👍 2k for a suspension? That's kinda greedy?

You're very welcome Gaurav 👍

You're welcome 😎👍

Thanks 👍 Mechanic needs to pay his bills 😉

Thanks! 😊

Easy 😎👍

Yeah, it's pretty good, but not worth buying if it's going to be used just once..

@@wawayltd Yes Ok but when you do the maintenance of your car or motorcycle yourself, it's good to have it in your toolbox, if you don't have a good hydraulic press! 😉👍🏽

True 👍

You're welcome 👍

Thanks 😊

You're very welcome 👍

Thanks 😊👍

Thanks Geordi! 👍

Thanks Alan 👍

Yeah, couple people with DSG mentioned it. Too much hassle for just a suspension arm bolt.

Thanks 😊

Thanks. I think doesn't need an alignment after this, but I'm not professional 😉

Thanks M C 😎👍

You're very welcome 👍

I don't have any experience with rear suspension, sorry.

@@wawayltd I meant the front control arm bushing the rear one

Oh yeah, it can be done. Not necessary to take whole arm off 👍

@@wawayltd Thanks

Yes. And it normally gets stuck. Best way to remove it - use fork for ball joints and a hammer.

I've had a really strange rattle coming from the front end went going over bumps, even slight bumps. The nearside lower suspension ball joint was registered as having play at the MOT in Nov. Also the coil spring rubs on the inner wheel arch on this side!!! The garage I took it to is adamant all the correct parts were used and VW inspected and said all looks good, horrible creaking grinding noise when steering at low speeds. Tempted just to beat the inside of wheel arch to give more space! I love and hate this car all at the same time. I have 4 kids so it's perfect functionally but I've had lots of issues and awaiting investigation with Motor Obudsman. 96k and I've had 2 new rear electric calipers, new NOx sensor, new DPF and new EGR!!!! Electric handbrake is constantly playing up too. Really value to brilliant content you put up.

Thanks. Quite often rattling noise on bumps maybe caused by bad anti-roll bar links. As for coil springs, probably mount bearings that hold them need to be replaced. My car is on 411.000 miles at the moment 😏

I don't remember, sorry..

Technically you do, but not many people do it.

What are console bushes?

Someone told me this before. I believe that you have DSG automatic gearbox, because I don't have this problem with my manual gearbox. I don't even know what to suggest... Drop the subframe a little bit?

Hi, thank you for replying so quickly. Yes, my car has an auto gearbox. As you mentioned, I had to loosen the two main subframe bolts on the same side and then use a crow bar to lower it enough to give me access to take the bolt out and the same method to replace it. In the end it was a lot easier than I had anticipated. Love your videos, very informative and you make it look easier then it sometimes is. Once again Thanks 😊@@wawayltd

You're welcome 😊

@@sohi44 easier to undo the dogbone mount and tilt engine forwards with a pry bar. Subframe needs new bolts as they are torque to yeild and can change the tracking

Very good point!

Sorry, I've lost my documentation on Sharan, I have something on my website. Like this clutch job description, it has some torque values: www.wheelsandmotors.com/manual/60be1fa1791d4700041b9728

Thanks! ... no I re-used my old ones. I know that VAG manuals are keen on telling you to replace bolts every time you undo them.. I'm not going to argue with them. Let's put it this way - I do it (re-use) on my own risk 😉 If their tightening torque is so many Nm + some degrees, I just go with those degrees by feel if bolt was used before.

@@wawayltd whats going to happen to the bolts? i mean what seems to be the problem in using old bolts?

Every time they are tightened properly, they stretch a bit.

Maybe not starting in the morning have to do something with a battery getting bad?

I mean that i would change the entire rubber and alluminium part.. as you remove.it by hand.. but i don't want to remove all the lower arm from the car..

Yes, to remove that bushing you don't need to remove whole arm - make sure you get good access and do the same as I did with arm removed.

I think it can depend on lot os factors - how low profile are your tyres, also all parts of suspension need to be checked, if you don't feel confident, ask some mechanic to have a quick look, so you know what needs to be done.

Thanks! Probably. If not the same, then likely very similar. On some newer models rear bushing can be different. Just have a look.

I don't think I would be able to determine source of the leak from a picture. I'm not professional. You can share your photos in one of our groups, where more people will see, and more is better (links are on the website), or even better - I'm a member of one Facebook group of Sharan/Alhambra owners that has over 1200 members - best to post it there, here's the link: facebook.com/groups/1463201880401563/?ref=share

Hi Matt, I forgot what exactly, but it's a good one - 950 of the real Nm. Next time I'll be in the garage I'll let you know... Or I bought it from Machine Mart, let's find the link... Here it is, here's that bad guy: www.machinemart.co.uk/p/dewalt-dcf899p2-xr-18v-impact-wrench/

@@wawayltd Thankyou very much for your help it's much appreciated. Keep up the great videos All the best.

Quite often manual would recommend renew bolts, not sure about this one. I didn't renew bolts.

I don't remember torques, sorry.

No problem. Thanks for the video, it's very helpful. I've been charged over 150£ for a replacement. Decided to do it myself this time. New bush arm is 26£ and my own labour.

That's the idea of my videos. Glad if it helps 👍

Don't know. Maybe. Turn the wheel and have a look. 😉

I don't even remember, could be TPS, Euros or GSF, could be Autodoc. Also we have very good VW parts shop in Bristol on Spring Street. It's brand of manufacturer that matters, the cheaper you go - it's surprising how little it will last.

That's lazy 😏

It very often ends up being cheaper to buy a new aftermarket control arm than replace the bushings + ball joint. This becomes even more true if the car is old, as some fixings just corrode so much they can't be undone even with heat and penetrating oil. The cost in labour alone to overhaul an old arm will make buying new arms the better option..

True