Mr. Young, I wish I could drive to your house--with the window down on my '99 Sienna--and shake your hand. Your instructions here were spot on. I got the job done in an hour or so and it would have taken much longer and been terribly frustrating without your useful video. Thank you sir!. This has been the most helpful how-to video I have used!

Thanks Roderick. Would like to add Ive repaired both door window motors.(98Sienna). Driver side 3 years ago and passenger side today. I actually fixed the motors for cheap,,,a dab of solder,,pennies. Open the motor and find what I call the "WAFER Component" which is what causes the motor to lose power especially going up. It is about 3/4" long and 1/16" thin. It has 3 layers, 2 conductive plates and the magical electronic layer is sandwiched between them. I did not yet find out its purpose. The FIX is to jumper out this "WC",and the motor will do all its suppose to do without it. The first motor I used a small wire to jumper out the WC using solder on each end, which took a little patience. An easier way is to melt a dab of solder at one end of the WC(left side with WC above commutator) making sure the solder connects the top conductive plate to the bottom plate. It makes it easier to remove the armature and brushes and give everything a good cleaning especially where the solder will be placed, with an electrical cleaning solvent.I used 260watt soldering gun with the flat tip which allows you to get into the tight spot. Replace grease that would have been removed by cleaner and reassemble. Brush tension springs should only be engaged after armature is in place and cover is almost closed. I had to replace the brushes on the 1st motor job and had to sand the new brushes down to size, as I couldnt find the exact size locally. I wish I had done a video. Any questions email me and Id be happy to help. (rudy.poirier@bellaliant.net) Thank You Roderick, as I used Your vid to review for my assembly process.

Exceptional video! I have this exact issue and was nervous about trying to get inside the door. Tried a new switch and no luck. Just ordered the motor and will give it a go soon!

I just replaced my 2000 Sienna power window regulator thanks to your video and the other KZfaq video by PsychOtto. Both videos are so helpful! I just want to further add that the bolt you mentioned at 8:28 to 8:39 was probably never meant to be taken completely out. You can see in the video that the panel hole for that bolt is much larger and has a little notch on it that seems like it was meant for the bolt to “hang” from. So you should just loosen that bolt, not unscrew it completely. Later when you put the entire assembly back in the first thing you do is use that bolt as a reference to hang it back in place to make it easier for the remaining assembly. There are a total of 6 bolts holding the regulator to the panel. After you take the whole assembly out it can be confusing (as to which hole goes with which hole) when you put the assembly back in because of the moving, pivoting, swiveling lattice like structure, especially if you decide not to re-use the old assembly. Without that “reference bolt” you could easily get lost not remembering or knowing which of the 6 screw holes in the regulator goes with its corresponding bolt hole in the metal panel. If you’re re-using the old regulator then it’s not a problem but having a reference bolt will still make it much easier to reassemble. Also, if you’re putting in a new or non-OEM regulator the remaining 5 holes most probably won’t line up - at least that’s what happened to me. So I screwed in the two window bolts, tighten the “reference bolt”, and move the window little by little until the other 5 bolt holes line up with the body panel holes. Also glad you pointed out the polarity switch on the window up/down button. I had the same problem and might not have known what to do; I ended up just cutting the wires and splicing them.

Great video, good instructions at each step, including how to swap the wires as the part I got was similar to yours and not an original part, works great though. I noticed the original part, one of the tracks is plastic, and seemed to be wearing out and not sliding very well. The new tracks are all metal and look like they might last even longer than the original. Glad to see other people keeping these vans going for a long as they are built to last with proper maintenance. All the best!

Thanks Rodney. Excellent video; I used it yesterday on '98 Sienna. I especially appreciated that you took the part off to see how it went, then put it back on to show us how it comes off in an efficient and clear way. I did this job 8 months ago installing a junkyard regulator with motor. That motor gave out now and I used the former one to replace it. That one bolt that looks like you should be able to slip through the larger hole...I took it as a challenge and was able to not remove bolt all the way. It helps a lot with the install. Thanks for excellent work.

Thanks so much for posting. I have the exact same issue and your straight forward explanation was perfect. Your comments about worrying about breaking the pins in certain places, when to muscle and when not to were the exact concerns I had. Thank you again.

Thank you very much Robert I really appreciate your video. I was able to install my motor assembly within about an hour and a half including removing the door panel and putting it back on. It's all because of your video. Thank you thank you thank you. I have a 1998 Sienna.

Did it with a $10.58 assembly. Good thing I get amazon prime to mail it to Hilo. Went smooth except when done was still sluggish. So I lubricated the tracts. Did good. I now wonder if I prematurely replaced it. Well it was good experience. Your instructions were accurate. I even needed help to align the window properly for the ten mm bolts to align up. Hard to do without help. The one that was hard to loosen had blue loctite. I put that one on loosely before putting assembly back it the door. Aided as a starting point.

Thank you my friend. All other videos that came up were for newer years while saying 98. Video helped a lot much appreciated

Mr. Young thank you for this video. I was able to fix my 99 sienna sliding window issue for $37 with your help. Your instructions are excellent and without any auto repair experience I was able to replace it. Thank you again and I appreciate it.

Dude that was a great video and actually really enjoyable to watch as far as a repair video goes I love the way you narrated it. The only problem I have is you didn't show how you got the assembly out of the door and how you put the assembly back in the door. I know it's probably self-explanatory but that would be one of those big things that I think you should have showed. Otherwise I'll absolutely love the video it was very helpful

Pro tip: completely remove glass, it slides ride out after angling sideways. Goes back in just as easy. Simple put the frame where you can access the window hold down bolts to remove, put back in same place and lower glass back in, piece of cake.

This was really helpful. I just replaced the regulator/motor on our 2000 Sienna, thanks to this video. One thing that's missing: after removing all the bolts for the old part, the motor's electrical cords need to be disconnected before removing the old regulator.

Just tremendous, Roderick. Your excellent video gave me confidence I might be able to do this--and I just did. And it works ! If I got lost, just replay and pause. Set the laptop up in the garage and step by step "got ur done". (4 hours ). Like that you assumed we had some mechanical knowledge, and didn't baby us along and drag it out. Good troubleshooting - mine didn't have to be reversed- as got it off Ebay too. I've never posted a video, and really haven't ever made a comment either, or even a "like", but I could not not "Thank You" for helping me. Gary in SoCal.

Excellent details on motor replacement. Thorough and well narrated video. I needed this. THANKS !

Thank you very VERY MUCH

Thank you for taking the time to make and post the video. This helped me install a new motor and avoided damage to the trim on the door. The video made the job go quickly and easily. And I enjoyed your glass on, glass off comment at the end Mr. Miyagi! Again Thank You!

Thank you going through so many details like which way a clip goes! Exactly what a dummie like me needs... Many thanks! Terrific video.

Roderick - Thanks so much for the detailed video. I watched your video and then installed one of those $40 something Amazon window motors in my 98 Toyota sienna. It went very smoothly thanks to your video. Now my window works again like new! Thanks again!!!

Thanks! Your video made this a quick and easy project. It is really appreciated that you took the time to make and post this video.

Great video. Very simple and fine instruction. The driver window of my O2 still goes up and down, but it's a little slower these days. So I'm going to try the lubrication thing first. Hopefully that will help take a little strain off the motor so it does not give up the ghost any sooner than has to

Thanks. Had the same problem. After watching your video had it fixed in about an hour.

Great vid. As soon as I find the parts I'll be doing this repair. This helps a lot. Especially finding those two hidden screws under the arm rest.

Very helpful! I just replaced mine. Took me about 2 1/2 hours. I would be a lot faster if I had to do it again! My switch panel is now permanently a little looser now, so be careful when you are prying that one loose. I would emphasize that it was essential for me to connect the new regulator and adjust it to match up exactly with the same orientation as the one removed. It just seems like a suggestion in the video, but it's more of a necessity.

Thank you so much for this video. It was instrumental in removing a door panel to replace a side passenger mirror. We'd buy you a beer if you lived closer

Thank you for the great video with everything you teaching from A to Z save time and $$$👍🙏

Very good detail,thanks! Just did this..

Thanks for the safety notice about the gloves, I wouldn't have thought about that!

Thanks to your great video, just finished the job on my 2000 Sienna CE, and still have all ten fingers attached. Some thoughts... I'd suggest that before removing the 8 bolts, use every hole available in the panel to try to see where everything is attached to the assembly. Makes replacement a lot easier. Having someone there to hold the glass up when you're lining up the assembly is really important; I managed it alone but it made the job much harder and risky (re fingers). Thanks again for the video.

Excellent information. Thanks for being so thorough!

Thank you for this video!! I wasnt sure if it was the switch or the motor. so Jumped it with wire as you did, and up goes the window.....fer sure the switch!!

Thanks for doing this video. Had the exact same problem with my 99 sienna and you helped me fix it!

Awesome video thanks I'm going to do the same to my 98 Toyota Sienna. I don't have the part yet but I'm going to order a part off of Amazon that I found.

I have some tips for those reading the comments. Email your VIN # along w/ which power window regulator & motor you are looking for to all the nearby Toyota dealerships requesting quotes along w/ part numbers (some of the #'s have changed). Mine was quote as about $485 from the dealerships. I got mine on eBay for about $65 (since I had to make sure it supported the AUTO DOWN feature else the plugs will not fit). Also, regarding the use of duct tape (to hold the windows up). Don't leave them on beyond the day as it will not hold the windows up forever and it will leave a sticky residue behind. I had to use nail polish remover and lots of rubbing w/ a cloth to remove it. And I had to dispose of the cloth.

Thank you so much for this video +Roderick Young! You saved me a ton of money!

Thanks! for your video. Very helpful. I did this on a 2000 Sienna. I completed the repair! but a few unanticipated obstacles emerged, all of which I eventually addressed. Unscrewing and opening up the door area was a breeze, as was unbolting and removing the old window regulator assembly. I too opted for an aftermarket one from carparts dot com, which came to about $50. delivered with tax. The first issue that arose, was that one of the car window attachment clips was broken. The attachment clips are fused onto the bottom of the window and include the clips with screw holes in them, that attach the window to the harness of the window regulator. I don't know if this happened while I was removing the regulator, or whether the clip was broken all along, but in any case, it was broken. I first tried lamely to glue the clip back together while the window was in the door. No dice. Glue just kept dripping down the piece, and there just wasn't enough room to maneuver epoxy. So, I knew I had to get the window out to address the repair out in the open. First off, I had no idea how to get the window glass completely out of the door, but turned out to be a pretty easy job (which I got very good at! through taking that window in and out many times over the next days) - just pull it up, tilt it forward front side down, and slide it out backwards. I spent a few days first trying different epoxies with or without Krazy Glue to try to reconnect the broken portion of the clip to its base, that was firmly glued onto the window, with no success. The part just kept snapping off as I tried to put the bolt back on to attach it to the window regulator harness. Finally I went to an auto parts store - Pep Boys - and got a package of window attachment (window guide) attachment clips. One of the pairs in the package was close enough to the ones that were already on the window to pass. The second obstacle that arose, was how to get the old window clip off. I looked over the internet and there were a couple of different schools of thought on this - including using heat, or power jigsawing the old clip off, one side at a time. I decided to use a butane micro torch and a long, large flat screwdriver, and just melted and scraped the old clip off - very easy job. (Note: do NOT use a Map gas full sized torch, I started off with this and it started to melt literally the glass and the screwdriver too! - a micro butane torch is more than hot enough.) The third obstacle, was that after I reattached the new clip using epoxy, it turned out that it was just slightly off and the screw holes on the new clips did not match with the available hole + slot in the new regulator. I had matched up the holes on the clips with the available hole + slot in the original regulator that I had removed from the van. Turns out that the OEM regulator holes were JUST SLIGHTLY wider apart than on the factory original. Long story short - I ended up melting the other factory clip off the window, and attaching the other OEM clip from the car parts store, and this time lining it exactly to the OEM regulator. The reason I had an OEM regulator to match up with - was that the first regulator sent to me by carparts dot com, froze up and didn't work, and they ended up sending me a replacement, which meant that I had two OEM regulators at one point, one installed, and one waiting to be returned. Anyway, in the end I got the two new clips on the window, had them lined up exactly for the SLIGHTLY WIDER holes on the OEM regulator, and put everything back together fine. I applied some silicone grease to the window channel when I noticed that it wasn't running all that smoothly, with a final result of, it all works! I will say that the OEM regulator is a bit clunkier than the factory one, and makes some clicking noises as it reaches its final closed position. Perhaps some silicone grease on its metal moving parts would have helped, but I had it all closed up before I thought of that. Oh, and my OEM regulator also required a reversal of the wires to make it work properly. Still, it all works perfectly, top to bottom. Also, for some reason the window door lock switch now seems a bit loose, but it all works and I am not too worried about that. If I cared about cosmetics like that on an old van that is rarely used anyway, I would have paid the mechanic to do this job. So - final point of this story, is that no matter what obstacles come your way, it is quite possible to complete this repair, and save yourself the roughly $500. that the mechanic may want from you. Good luck, and thanks again for your very helpful video.

Thanks for the video. It was just what I needed. It's a great down to earth method and I appreciate your effort. Thanks again

God bless Roderick Young!! Perfect and so detailed instructions. Thanks a lot!! Raj

Great job, just cost me $350 to get what you just did done. LOL at least now I know what to do next time.

Perfect! Just what I needed! Thank you!

Be VERY carefully when you take the switches out. The bezel tends to break. Happened to me, I ended up making an adapter to screw into the assembly

Great, great, great video!!!

Always disconnect power before servicing any electrical device on your vehicle.

Thanks for the excellent video! I was able to get the inside door panels off with only a little bit of trouble (the clips are nasty). Both front windows on my '99 Sienna XLE are coming out of their channel clips (on one side the clip is actually broken-it's seems so dumb that these are plastic, and not metal). The motors seem to work fine. Is it possible to just replace the channel clips? If so, how do you attach them to the window? Is there some kind of special adhesive to use like Platinum Bond 7800 or something like that? Is it possible they came out of the clips and/or broke them because of something being wrong with the regulators? Is it crazy to just replace the regulator and not also the motors as long as I have everything taken apart? Sorry for my five questions.

Thanks, excellent, got my girlfriend's replaced (bought same/similar complete unit from ebay,

Thanks for the info,

Thanks! Handy video.

I purchased a new regulator (2002) from advanced auto parts for $150.00 (before I saw your video). When I connected the new regulator with the electrical the motor didn't work. What am I missing?

Sweet I'm gonna try this!

Fantastic, THANKS!

That helps! My window goes up crooked. I think it came off the track.

smart men .

Hi. I'm having the same problem and I've been watching your video over and over. I'm about ready to order the part from eBay but I notice the wires only have two. On the one I took out there's five. My van is 2002. Also did you know the location of the power window shears? When I was messing around with things my rear vent and power doorstopped working. I can't test my passenger side window because I definitely broke the switch and a half hazard attempt to solve my problem.

Easy job

Kenneth Eng: sorry that happened to you. I'm not saying that the wires are always backwards, of course, only that mine were. I suppose that if the wires are backwards, then the action of pushing the window switch hard to that it lowers all the way would actually raise the window all the way, and maybe never stop?

Yeah do not pry that window switch control bezel from the side toward the back of the car. It will break that little plastic tab... Ask me how I know 😒 And they want $45 (as of 2019) just for a new bezel for my '02. Ridiculous. So now I'm just living with a loose bezel.

Mr Young: Does your minivan have the AUTO DOWN feature? I'm finding on eBay that the ones that are cheaper (less than $50) don't fit in models that have the AUTO DOWN feature. Does your driver's side window button say "AUTO" on it?

Thanks!!! Great video.

How to you swap the two wires? I bought a motor, going opposite directions. I tried hard to pull the wire out, no success. There must be trick.

can i replace my 2002 toyota sienna van front passenger side window glass with 2005 toyota sienna front side passenger window glass ??

If the passenger window works and not the drivers side doesn't, is the regulator the problem or something else? I already bought a new switch. Still doesn't work.

Great video how would you test if it was the switch?

When I tried to lock doors it doesn't want to lock all doors,windows are good except locking of doors

Nice video. I have removed the power window motor from my Toyota and want to test the motor. The motor plug has 5 pins, 4 in a row and 1 aside. Do you know how to connect positive and negetive to test the motor? Regards,

which brand did u buy from ebay. any problems now?

Switched wires burned out my controller

Roderick young, can you please post eBay's link that you bought from the window motor !!!

awesome now do it to mine lol no really lol

Did not show where u plug the motor in 2it man

K

If this thing drops and your finger happened to be in there that would be umm. *b a d*

No good bla bla bla bla