I would keep the Se rectifier in place. Solder wires on to it, but hide them where they won't scratch or short anything. Keep the nostalgic look.

Speaking of unsightly results, why not open the side folds by tapping a long knife blade into the joint? No stretching, no tool marks and a perfect close at the end.

Enjoyed this one. A wide flat (about 20-25mm) SMOOTHED EDGES chisel (engineers or joiners type) would be very useful for opening the metal case. This would be introduced in a similar place to where you used the screwdriver, but instead of twisting the chisel, you'd mallet it into the semi-rolled joint, a little at a time whilst moving along the joint length, until the joint had been opened by essentially bending out the lower bend of the casing, and to a lesser extent the top bend. And unless you're a sheet-metal worker, when closing the joint, use a piece of 20x40mm timber as a punch/spoon, either longitudinally or broad-side, to seal up the joint. This same piece of wood could also be used as a punch to open the joint, in a similar manner to that described for using the metal chisels, above. Hope this may be useful to some of you.

Thank you sir. A big help for me with replacing mine!

Microwave rectifier for voltage drop. I haven't tried this yet but it occurred to me that it would be more efficient to install one or two microwave rectifier diodes in series with the silicone replacement bridge to handle the appropriate voltage drop. Those diodes are multiple diodes in series to handle the HV they're rectifying. They also handle a fair amount of current. You can forward bias the diode and check the drop by inserting a 9V battery in series with your voltmeter. They have about 3 volts drop. So, just insert the appropriate number of microwave rect diodes in series with your bridge rect and voila! Instant voltage drop with minimum heat produced. Any ideas on why this might be a problem are welcome. NOTE:You'll have to buy the entire microwave oven at a thrift store as the appliance industry has decided these diodes are precious and want like $50+ each for these!

Thanks for another great video. Just one question, I’ve watched a number of videos and in some it only shows a single 1N4007 diode in series with a resistor to replace the selenium rectifier. In your video you use 4 diodes. Is either way satisfactory? I have a 1959 Schaub Lorenz valve radio, my selenium rectifier is physically quite small.

Excellent vid, thank you. I was going to just ditch the whole piece but now I think I'll stuff it like you've done here! Since the silicon diodes will bump the voltage up a good amount, do you ever add series resistance? I've also seen people say you have to strap caps across each diode, and also a KV cap across the secondary.

Wow you have no idea how helpful this is!! Can you suggest what diode values to use for 220v 150ma?

What is your opinion on modifying the transformer to lower the output voltage for use with modern rectifier diodes. I have a Nordmende radio (uses selenium rectifier so no center tapped secondary) that I am restoring and looking at the power transformer I noticed that the outermost layer of winding was from the secondary. So I went and unwound approximately 80 turns out of the 1280 total turns of the secondary. Measured the rectified output afterwards and it was down 25V from the original. Then moved the input tap from 220V to 240V and got the rectified voltage down another 20V (I have 230V in my wall outlet in Romania). So the voltage I get now is very close to spec without using a resistor. The transformer operating temperature seems to be the same as before. Will change the mains fuse to the lowest amperage rating possible just for peace of mind.. Do you think this is a safe modification? Thank you!

Hi. Can you help me with an advice please? Or anyone else? I got Nordmende Elektra tubes radio 1959. The selenium rectifier stinks when gets hot. I've done a silicone rectifier with a resistor in series with the +, but the problem is with the silicone rectifier I've done, I got output voltage on it of 300-305 volts with speaker's buzzing noise. With the original selenium rectifier I got output on it 190-195 volts, no buzzing noise on speaker. Any advice how can I drop down the voltage on silicone rectifier from 300v to 190v? Thanks anyone in advance.

Brilliant video. I am replacing a selenium rectifier on a Vadis Escort tube guitar amplifier. My question is this - what value capacitors/resistor should I use in the new power supply circuit? The present values for the caps are 24uF 350V and the resistor, which is burnt out I think is 10ohm? 10Meg? Can't quite see as it's burnt out. Appreciate your help. Thanks.

You should add (just as you suggested later on) as resistor in series as selenium rectifiers have quite a high resistance when new, as they get older they typically increase in resistance.