Great video! I’m 70 years old and this reminds me of the times that I was my dad’s helper when he performed maintenance on the family vehicles. He also taught me patience. When the going gets tough, walk away. Cool down and go over everything in a methodical way. Eventually the “light bulb” will come on and you will realize your error and correct it. No harm, no foul. We need more automotive machine shops and repairers like you - honest and truthful!

When I was young and didn't know any better, I pressed them out, pressed them in, bent the yokes and broke my drive shaft in about 2 weeks, bought a used one and replaced it. I've come a long way, and I give a lot of credit to the old timers who still take the time to show the willing how to do it right the first time❤

Dave you are an awesome teacher. Straight to the point and clearly demonstrated. I just found your channel and it’s becoming one of my favorites.

Damn... This man is worth his weight in Gold. His knowledge and techniques as well as patience are all next level. I wish we could all have leaders like this in all of our lives.

First time I did u-joints I dropped a couple of needle bearings when I used a hammer to drive in the joint. Now I use the vice for all of it. Love all the videos.

I've had to replace U-joints many times over the yrs being a tech and this is the best tutorial I've ever seen 👍. Unfortunately every shop I've worked at never had the luxury of a blast cabinet, and some didn't even provide a torch setup.

Guys who are trying to learn the trade of. fixing cars should watch ALL of Dave's videos. He explains things very well. I had to teach my self how to do U-joints. No one taught this at the automotive school that I attended.

A hammer & a couple of sockets is all I know

Scotty Kilmer watches Dave's channel to learn how to do the job right. When I'm done watching Dave's videos, I don't have a headache. If I watch a Scotty video, I need an aspirin afterwards.

Just to add. Mark the slip yoke so it goes back in same line as it came off to keep it in balance. I was taught to use a wheel cylinder hone to clean up the cup bores. We always pushed the cup in further so u-joint got better grab on other side cup when pressing it in. Great video.

You're a great teacher. I worked as a Transmission R & R tech and I can say it can be a tricky operation. Great work. Great video too man. You don't talk like an info-mercial salesman. I want to start a Firestone super center here in Vermont. It's tough to find 100% Auto Service like they provide.

I use a side grinder and cut the shafts. A socket and punch out the caps. Clean it up real good and then use a large c clamp to press and do the same job. This however is the best method for shop replacements I've witnessed. Good job!

Great to watch the right way to install u-joints and that is one nice vice. I was taught to always mark the yoke and put it back the same way as they are balanced as a unit.

I’ve done many of them through the years. It’s nice to watch someone care about someone else’s vehicle as if it were their own!

Nice vid, but... You forgot to mention to rock the new joint on a flat surface checking to see if one set of cups are bigger than the other (Yes, there are some like that). Also, when you're finished and checking the new joint for smooth operation. In the event the joint is tight (you'll feel it), you need to relieve some stress that's held in the yoke. I keep an old chisel that's been ground flat and strike the ears of the yoke where the joint is tight. Works like a charm. Finally, I'd avoid heating the ears of the yoke to the point where they're glowing. You're changing the grain structure of the steel at that point.

I love the way you describe and teach as you go ❤😅

Watching these videos is like food for my soul. As a technician who prides my self on quality workman ship I can't stop watching. Great example Dave is for the industry, especially in today's times.

What you guys do is infinitely interesting. I’ve never been around this stuff and I appreciate the work that you guys do. New subscriber! Please keep the education coming!

I haven't done a u joint in 30 years, thanks for the refresher!

I remember heating up the GM Ujoints that had the nylon the held the caps in. Always made a nice loud POP and you made sure no one was in line of the cap as they shot out of the yoke

Thanks, Dave. Very similar to how I was taught some 55 years ago, except for the heat. That you applied the pressure with the hammer to the cross, or spider, was how I was taught except we didn't have such air tools in the workshop then. May I suggest that you mark the slip yoke and the shaft so they go back in the same line. I'm retired now but I recently came across a you tube series by Professor John Kelly of Weber University Automotive Section on U joints. It was very enlightening. went into measuring axial play and the potential for that to cause vibration. Very well worth a look, particularly sections about 5, 6 and 7.

I remember when i was young mechanic, 16 or 17, i bought a 54 chev 3/4 ton and i was having a hard time changimg the u joints and i asked my father for help and with a hammer and old piece of railroadtrack and in less than 5 minutes he had them changed, pissed me off because i thought i should be able to do it as good as him but that was a good learning day lol. Thats a different job than whats' Dave is doing in the video. Nice to see father/son videos also

Dave is the last of real men doing real men work! ❤

This is awesome info, Dave. Thanks for the willingness to share the wisdom. You and your guys make the world a better place.

Dave is an incredible teacher, SO much detail. I strive to be as good of a teacher to my apprentices, as Dave is.

Patience, cleanliness, and teamwork. Nicely done

🔥usually heat till plastic comes out those factory holes, looker pins in there. Usually Center push mark in shaft and Knuckle for reassembly, had them 1/2 rotation out and bad vibration 🔥👊🔥🏍🔨⚙️really enjoy your videos and how killer your shop Is

I like how you did one completely in first, when I do u-joints I’ve always done both at the same time and it’s hard to get the shaft in the needles perfect, can’t wait to try it next time

You took me down a personal history road I did that job on a small (1970s) British car. Since the joints already came with C-clips I just used the bench vise my dad had to push one end out using≠ size sockets. I remember how tricky the needle bearings were, but I did not screw up. I did not know modern cars still had the room for installing u joints with c clips Dad had a bit of tools; he was a milling machine operator (miss u 😢) Really nice job

That's a neoprene retaining clip that injected from the factory if you had heated it more it would've squirmed out of those holes and they would come out easy as pie

So many new mechanics don't even know how to change joints anymore. At the machine shop i work at, we use a cut off disc, does well enough to remove the old one and we use the same method of putting a new joint in, with a socket and vice.

Great video, Dave. Auto Shop basics 101 (1958, freshman year in high school). In this day and age of electronics, the young guys forget the basics.

I could watch this all day long - I’d love to see longer videos on rebuilds maybe split into 3 videos

I love watching daves videos on youtube and tik tok. He is such a good mechanic and boss! I wish i could work for him. Very well spoken and does such a good job explaining. Seems like he has alot of patience too. Love the videos!!

Great video on how to! Also, good details! I've changed several u joints. The worst one was on a pick up all the needle bearings were gone, and a third of the trunnions were worn off.

This is a really great educational video. I'm retired now, but over the years I've busted many a knuckle changing those without a vice or press. And sometimes on the roadside too, and in the middle of the night.

After watching your vedios i reckon havnt studied anything in 2 years of my diploma of automotive. Iam learning from the beginning while watching your vedios .. thanks for that.

Dave, you're a top-notch professional!

I’ve always wondered how to replace a u joint. Thanks dave for a step by step done the right way. 👍😁

Listening to you is a joy. Thanks for the tutorial.

Man that was intense! Great job as always.

Dave, I'll disagree with you on the greasable joint preference, and especially to one with a zerk in a cap as opposed to in the cross. though I would love to hear your response. My reasoning is because I regularly see factory sealed joints hit well over 200K KM on work trucks up here in central BC, Canada, but greasable aftermarket replacements from Moog, SKF, etc. are usually doing very well if they can beat 60K. Compare a factory Spicer joint on a Dodge front axle etc. with a Moog, and it's easy to see that the Moog seals are trash in comparison - and they have to be, to allow grease to purge out. And once those seals have opened to purge, they let water in more easily also, so they NEED to be re-greased very regularly, whereas a sealed joint needs no attention for years. For highway trucks, probably not such an issue, but a large amount of my workload is 1 ton service trucks that live very hard lives coated in mud down bush roads, on ranches, in pit mines, and such, and the aftermarket joints just don't hold up. Having said all this, I've only been doing this for a little over a dozen years in comparison to your career, so I'm always open to opinions.

Yes,I did that to a 2 piece tailshaft for my car last week, they're a bit more difficult to do by yourself although I found out that I can rest the rear shaft in the vice while I press the cups into the yoke while moving the trunnion around. I also mark the shaft even on a tailshaft which has a universal joint on both ends before pulling it apart,I had to mark the mounting ears on mine because both halves are phased 180° apart, it's so that the shaft won't likely vibrate in either case. I wrap the caps with electrical tape because I like to keep each cap on their trunnion that they came off originally. I recently had a Guibo which looked alright cause vibration (it was warped) in second gear from the time that the Guibo was brand new so I slipped a spare used Guibo into my car last night & early this morning I drove it & the vibration went away !

Congratulations on your new TV show coming up. It's nice to see hard work paying off. Be watching all of your new shows. Thanks for putting wholesome back on TV!

Good info. My only gripe was the vise, I was told to never put a driveshaft or yoke in a vise. It might have been an abundance of caution as I was a beginner, but I have always followed that advice.

Great videos Dave. Your showing people good honorable work. Love it

Just done mine on my jcb loadall, thanks for your advice n help dave !

That's exactly how you do it. You're a very good teacher .

Man you put in a lot more effort than most on these u joints. It refreshing.

An old ER doc here, these are what we call the pearls of wisdom, from a multitude years of experience.

By the power of Dave I can change a U joint now! Thank you sir! Keep it up!

Great mechanic, smart businessman, and a nice guy! Thx Dave

Dave I got to tell man that I love to watch your videos you are the boss and you are working hard. Keep it up man.

Using a cold chisel, mark the mating inney and outey yoke parts. One strike on each side of one pair, two strikes on the other pair on the other U-joint. Heat up slightly the end tube of grease gun, torch, sun or oven and inject warm grease into Zerk to reveal at seals while still on the bench while working the joint. Purge the air in the internal grease passages. Always grease while U-joists are warm from driving and after mud-stuck. Grease joints and chain saw bar tips while hot/warm before storage. Push out the water and grit so it doesn't sit in there and rust then bind when cold start up.

Dave your shop is literally equipped to fix ANYTHING. Love the videos man.

Nice to see that.Its been years since I have had to do that. Nice refresher👍

You makeit look easy, Dave! Great demonstration!

Love ya work Dave!

Dave and crew, you have a proper shop and a top notch workplace God 🙌 bless

First year apprentice here who’s only just learning to replace uni joints. Thanks for this great video!

'An element of risk...' yeah I can relate to that, a familiar feeling as I've replaced many universal joints on my British Clasics over the last 45 years. Great video!

Best U-Joint video on the internet - Awesome and thanks for the lesson!!!

Thank you, Dave for an excellent tutorial

Good job! I do my farm equipment joints the same way except I add a little high quality grease in each cup to insure the needle bearings stay in place. Really like your vids!

Great KZfaq Channel , like your work ethic and Honesty .

A great teaching and informative video that all of us can benefit from, thanks for sharing!

Awesome ! ,Now I figured how the u joints are put together !

Basics are fundamental! Love it!

Great tutorial.....Most times i just use the vise to hold it and use a ball joint press to do the work. Have never had a sand blaster or anything, just some emery cloth...

Add a little grease to your needle bearings. This will assist holding the needles in the cup. Great channel!!

Love this channel!

When Dave performs his magic tricks it educates his audience by teaching them the complexity involved in learning to become a wizard. Not a job, a highly involved profession. Dave clearly demonstrates his commitment to the highest level of professionalism.

Glad to see you still do this..someone told me they just replace the shaft..

Always enjoy Watching a Master Mechanic

I'm an Automotive Student andI learned alot from this guy. I also love the fact that he is no BS type of a guy and make things even better.🎉🎉🎉🎉

Great vid Dave,watching from Aussie!

Awesome workshop, you should be very proud.

U joint press tool. Much less hassle. Worked like a charm for me and inexpensive

Thank you for sharing, Dave and Joey; and the camera side too.

Very good. I replaced the u joints on my Jeep Wrangler front axles same way.

Basic mechanic tasks explained in depth. Thank you.

I've done tons of u joints when I was a tech for chrysler, I'm still a big fan of my u joint press.

Missed you mention marking joint so to put it back in , in the right orientation , love your down to earth approach

I didn't have a vise years ago, but I did have a huge c-clamp that worked. A little wonky at first, but I was able to manage. Great video!

Great information, thank you for your in sharing. Keep the info coming

Great job Dave & Joey!🤩🤩

Thanks for the step by step. In my younger days I broke the yoke on a big Buick. The junkyard had all you can carry for $25. No guarantee. I carried 3. The ones I didn't use we threw in the dumpster. The part going into the transmission was about one inch shorter but works. I asked if it didn't work could I trade it for another " no refund" so I carried three

You go the whole 9 yards impeccable 🎉🎉

a lot of great information!! thanks for the video!

Love this channel more and more

You’re a great teacher man

Really nice demonstration.

You made that look so difficult. Made me second guess my whole life and reality cause i know whenever i replaced my u joints, it was very simple and easy. Only hard part was lying on my back in the driveway for an hour.

Great training! Interesting how there's two different style clips.

I like using the impact chisel as well, but the chisel I use I have carved a V into and blunted it. But I also have purchased the fancy tool press that pulls the joint right off. Even those factory ones that are filled with plastic.

Thanks for the instructional video, you are the man!

That vice tap trick is a great example of experience.

You should never hit or use an air hammer on a u joint cross. It is hardened and I have see them explode because they are so brittle. I’ve been a heavy duty mechanic for over 40 years and seen shards of u joint go into mechanics stomach and have to go to the hospital to remove. But that u joint was tiny compared to a real heavy duty driveshaft. Pack the needle bearing with grease to hold them in.

Did these the other night with some PB Blaster, a socket, and a hammer right in the dirt beside the truck and it worked beautifully. Squirt it with the PB to free thing up, lay it in the dirt and kneel over it, and knock it out with the socket and hammer. The entire driveshaft was supported by the dirt while the old u-joint just punched into the dirt as it came out. It was fast, easy, and didn’t require any fancy tools.

I can hear the quality of that device when you tap it with the hammer. It has a nice chaim to it anyway, your tutorial is very useful. It’s a six in a row,Jim from Kennerdell, Pennsylvania