Thanks Mike, glad you think so! :)

Thanks Shawn, glad to hear the videos have been helping you. :)

Great to hear!

Hi mate, glad the videos are helping you. I'll have a think about an end-of-trip maintenance video. There probably isn't much more to it beyond what you describe but I'll have a think. Switching off or disconnecting the battery is another thing along with protecting everything as much as you can from UV, maybe also removing the bung to drain the bilge.

Thanks Matt, glad you are enjoying them - and a refreshing ale. ;)

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks mate, glad to hear you've got your Evinrude running sweetly!

Happy to help. 😊

Thanks mate. It look me a while to get around to filming these top seals but I hope it helps if you ever need to do this job.

Thanks Marco.

Thanks Robert, will get onto that one over the Christmas break.

Thanks Brad. If you do a pressure test with the foot off you will be able to see / hear which seal is leaking. I've got a separate video on prop shaft seals - most brands of outboards are pretty similar when it comes to changing seals.

Dangar Marine yea it sounded like it was coming from the top of the foot and was curious how many different seals there was......and once again great great info on all your videos and thanks for putting in the time and effort......

1974 Chrysler 105.

Thanks mate!

Hi Bill, I broke it by very light slide hammer hit. It may work when all parts are new, but not with corroded aluminium seal holder. So no point to renew in my opinion. I was lucky to get pieces out from prop shaft casing with tiny magnet. Selector pin works in same way, but even that might be too weak.

Thanks Will, you must have done plenty of these!

I haven't really resealed any Honda lower units but I do reseal a few Evinrude and Mercury lower units.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks Al. :)

Thanks Dean.

There was definitely a Coopers or two floating around that afternoon. It was bloody hot!

looks like you're in a sauna....bench temperature definitely not appropriate for the fine brew.. crisis over

Are you referring to the prop shaft seal in the lower unit or this upper drive shaft seal? The bearing carrier that has the propshaft seal can be very hard to remove and often requires a very strong puller and a lot of heat. This upper one should come out relatively easily if all the bolts are removed.

You're welcome. :)

Some way to put a puller directly on the housing would certainly be nice.

Thanks Roger. Yes, exactly the same. In fact some two stroke and four stroke outboards of similar horse power share the same gearbox.

Pretty much. The exact mechanism that holds the gear selector seal housing in will be different but the basic idea is the same.

Hi Stu could you answer my question please

Not sure what the earlier models had. I find a lot of these housing leave a lot to be desired. It's almost impossible to get many of them out without destroying them.

Unfortunately not. I've never worked on BF130, only the smaller Hondas that either I or friends have owned.

Start with a carburettor clean and go from there.

You might find it is a little bit too deep down to get to, and these housing are generally much easier to remove than the prop shaft barrier carrier.

@@DangarMarine thanks just mine seems more corroded than the one in your video, it's not leaking so will leave alone until it does. Great video's by the way. You are a great source of info. Just about the best on KZfaq.

Hi Gabriele, there are four bolts around the gearbox and then one more under the trim tab anode above the prop. You need to remove that anode to get to the last bolt which has a 12mm head rather than the 14mm of the other four.

I'm sorry I was wrong, but I have to remove the enginer block and the oil pan..tanks

It was an adapter that came in the slide hammer kit.

Hey mate, doesn't look like KZfaq shows comments in order. What was your question?

Dangar Marine Replacing driveshaft and gear selector seals on a Honda BF30 I have one question, when I split the lower unit from the upper unit on a BF20 the shaft came out of the lower unit end instead of from the upper unit, is there any thing I should do and can you explain what I should do because this happened. The drive shaft is still connected to the upper unit. The shaft pulled out of the impeller housing. The motor is 2012 and its the first time the lower unit is pulled apart. I emptied the oil from the motor and turned it upside down and sprayed CRC 6-56 into the area were shaft goes into the upper unit (engine) It has been pooling there for three days now so will try and pull it out of the top unit to morrow, do you have any suggested ways of pulling on that shaft to get it out, I have tried to use vice grips on cloth and hammer the vice grip to shock it out, but that was before I used the CRC 656 and it didn't budge. Thanks in advance for your help, I have enjoyed looking at your videos, great work and easy to under stand. I am Australian but currently in Fort Lauderdale fixing my catamaran dingy Keep Smiling Regards Terry +1 954 348 9637

Hi Terry. Installing the shaft back in the gearbox should be pretty straight forward, from memory they are a push-pull wedge shape with a roll pin through the rod just under the oil seal. I'm presuming either the roll pin or the shifter wedge popped the seal carrier out rather than just the bare rod coming out. Did the gear selector work before it came apart? If so then it I can't think how it could be seized as it would need to move to work. I have one in the workshop at the moment like yours so I'll take a look when I am there. When I have pulled them out I have done pretty much what you have tried - vice grips on a side hammer.

Hi Stu, Yes the gear selector was working fine, the whole motor was fine I just needed to replace the impeller, the bottom end of shaft has a triangular bit on the end, not sure if its something else broken off. It is still stuck in the top, its been socking for a week now, I tried it three days ago (No good) going to try again today, if it dosn't come apart now I will take engine of out board and get a engineering shop to use a press to reverse press it apart. The spline at the top if seized into the engine. Thanks for your help mate

Yes, I don't think brake clearer is great for you, even at low temperatures, but it definitely becomes deadly once it is converted to phosgene gas through heat.

I hesitated to give a heads up because of your experience, but just in case. Thanks for the videos, it's been great to learn about outboard 2 strokes.

This seal might be your problem, but I find the prop shaft seal to be the most common one to go because people get fishing line in behind the prop which cuts it. I really enjoyed the process of learning to weld. Check out chucke2009 if you want some vids on welding.

Made an adapter with a schrader valve and a brass nipple to connect a simple bicycle pump to the lower unit with the gear oil tubing and adapter. Pumped it up and no leaking so replaced the lube and will recheck after some real use. This vid will be a huge help when I do replace all the seals.