Nice , clear piece thanks. And I really agree how it is a great opportunity, at these times, to clean and apply protectant to the inside of the often - overlooked Wheel Guards. Thanks for your help.

Easy to listen to a DIY bloke who knows his stuff !

Very good just the ticket, the information about socket size for the damper rod was a real help. I'll go an finish the job now. I took the tank off as i am concerned about the paint work . You did not mention but I was glad you put the drain screws back in to avoid the new oil running back out. Thanks great job!!

Very good video with great camera work so we can actually see what's going on, thanks very much.

Super, I will now go ahead with my T160 forks

Thanks. I can now move forward with the front forks on my Silver Jubilee after watching your video

gday u helped me no end with my new t140 "76 replacing fork tubes seals rebuild brakes etc well done video

Thanks for the very informative video, however I'm not sure how you managed to get a socket to sit on the nut on top of the damper, when I tried various sizes none would sit on it as there appears to not be enough clearance for a normal socket to fit. I ended up using a home made large flat blade to hold the damper rod still.

Good job, Useful info...nicely done, sir..Thanks...'79 T140E

Thanks a lot mate! That is exactly what I looked for.

I delved into my forks (after receiving inspiration from your video here) and can report that I met a few headaches. The cap screw (AKA Allen Screw) in the base of my LH leg undid easily without my needing to even try and hold the inner damper. However I wasn't so lucky with the screw in the base of my RH leg. So I gritted my teeth (because I HATE damaging my tools) and ground down the outer circumference of my 13/16" socket to under 27.5 mm diameter so I could slide it down into that leg from the top and thus grip the hex on top of the spinning damper. What did it do? Well the damned nut on top of the damper unwound instead, leaving me still with my screw locked into my damper shaft (but with a lovely nut in my hand to admire)!!!! "Expletive". That of course left me no choice but to drill the head off the Allen Screw (which wasn't easy of course because the screw was harder than normal steel and required multiple resharpening of my drill bits and the use of cutting oil etc). But at least now I finally have both fork legs looking pretty and in great condition with new seals and new damper O-rings etc. I thought you might like a laugh. I can remember having similar experiences way back when I was a teenager riding my Tiger 110 to and from college. Why old classic Triumph motorcycles never turned me off engineering I'll never know! In actual fact, I still love engineering and even love working on these British bikes (where the design engineers never considered accessibility of fasteners and forced mechanics to follow complicated sequences for even the most simple of jobs) . I must be a glutton for punishment!!!!

Seems like a weird design with that dowdy washer on the inside of the fork. How do you know it's in place when you put the bolt back in? I've got a minor leak around that allen head and I figured I'd take it out, maybe put a new dowdy washer on. Looks like in order to do that I'll have to pull the fork off. I was hoping I could just take off the bottom fork cap, remove the wheel, unscrew that allen bolt and replace the washer.

Another helpful video. Thank you. I like the way you say fork oil. Kinda sounds like f-ck all.

hi, can you tell me the size of the socket you used to hold the tube to remove the bolt at the fork bottom end please?

So if I just needed to replace the oil would I need to take off the wheel and bars .great video by the way

Im having issues with my rebuild. The bushing/nut at the bottom of the stanchions : one has a loose internal plastic sleeve,the other doesn't . I ordered a new nut, it has the sleeve, but wont slide over the damper. Internal diameter too small. Any ideas? And what purpose does the sleeve have?

So just to remove and replace the fork oil, you'd take the top caps off and loosen the drain plugs?