Came back to watch and got them done! Thanks again

Good idea.

Good times...

before channels could make $

@My name is Steve Rogers My brakes weren't all that bad, I was doing brakes on another car and just decided I would do the F150 again while I still had good weather. I am not particularly hard on brakes. I learned from my Dad to come to a slow rolling stop. That accomplishes a couple of things. Makes brake pads last longer and ensures that if something goes wrong and you hit the car ahead of you it won't cause serious damage or injury. I see so many people rushing right up to the stop light way too fast. Anyway front pads are an easy job and cheap if you don't have to replace rotors. Thanks for the comment. My Dad got more out of his brakes than anyone I know but even he would not get 163K, that is unusual under any circumstances. Congrats.

Same just got mine done

Eres muy bienvenido. Me alegro de haber ayudado.

Could you or anyone else explain how the brake pads opposite of the calipers piston get used? I understand on newer bolt on calipers they slide when you press the brakes because the calipers can glide

Good points. Thanks.

I have seen similar instructions years ago and even followed them once. I bookmarked your comment because I think it is very good information. I am replacing rotors and pads on my 1992 ford F150. I just replaced the rotors today and will do the pads tomorrow. My Dad showed me how to set the tension on the spindle nut many years ago. This F150 is one that he bought brand new and now I have it. Over 20 years ago, when he was about 75 he was doing front brakes on this truck. When he removed the bearings to grease them he noticed that they were stamped "made in Japan". There was nothing wrong with the bearings but he refused to put those Japanese bearings back in his truck. So, he went to the parts store and bought brand new Timken, made in the USA, bearings. I noticed when I pulled the bearings out of the rotors they did indeed say, Timlin, made in the USA. This truck is a 1992 and those bearings have been in it for a lot of years and I re-installed them. So, I guess his method is ok. He was a very good mechanic but he never used a torque wrench as far as I know. I use a torque wrench on everything that I can reach. I might check the bearing nut with a torque wrench tomorrow. Good to know.

The pieces you note are the bearing, (tapered) and the "race". The race is the contact surface for the bearing. Ideally, you will remove the old "race" with a punch, striking it from the back side. In my case, the rotor comes with the a race already installed. You can just grease the bearing(s) and install. The seal gets tapped in place for the inner bearing. Good questions.

Can’t say for sure. Rock auto?

I usually don't add much, but some people pack the cavity full. The thing is, grease doesn't sling around like oil. it will stay in the bearing. I would maybe do one quarter.

Hard to say what the clip is. I know you can't post pics here. Sorry.

I just used vice grips to lightly compress the pin end then used a small pry bar and hammered it threw with a rubber mallet. Was so easy, great video. 👏

Check fluid level first. If the brakes are working fine, try unhooking the battery for a few minutes to reset the stores codes. You'll need to troubleshoot if they stay on

@@user-dn6qy1ou1f Perfect. Fluid level was good at max line. Went ahead and unplugged the positive terminal on the battery. Then turned on the head lights, hazards, pressed the brake and let it sit for 30 min before plugging the battery again. & your right! No more brake or ABS lights on the dash. Thanks. Brakes are working great 👍

@@eseogpanchitoGood deal

Just standard wheel bearing grease from the parts store is fine.

Did you but new bearings? if so, did you test fit them to the spindle by chance?

Whatever floats your boat.

4x4 rotors are different.

@@JoDaddysGarage do u happen to know where to find one on the interweb?

In the past few years, I have taken to replacing caliper pins and sliders whenever I do a brake job. The parts are relatively cheap and it adds a little security knowing that you are starting from fresh again.

Anti rattle clips?

@@JoDaddysGarage they fit on the active pad so the pad doesn't rattle every time you drive over a bump. They are a production item. Cheers.

@@GHOSTWHOWALKERS Yes. Those are built onto the new pad. You can see it in the video at 7:30.

@@JoDaddysGarage Good stuff, my pads have the clips pushed on from one end of the active pad. Living in the desert here in Oz its hard to get the gear you have over there ... we got no Walmart or Home Depot. Anyway my friend keep safe from the virus and keep filming ... onya ..

Should be the same.

Good question. Not sure they were available.

Thanks. 4X4's are a lot different. Because of the axle, they have retainers that thread in, and you also have the gearing internal. There is likely other videos out there showing the process.

Thanks so much. I did find one. Keep up the good work

John Foreman which 4wd version video do you recommend?

Good question. It was just a piece of scrap that I ground down to the shape I wanted.

That's a tough one. Typically a spray penetrant and a big hammer.

Did you test fit the bearings without the rotor in place?

@@JoDaddysGarage No I didn't, but I worked the rotor back off and tested the old bearing and it was just as tight. A week did pass between removing the rotor and putting it back on the spindle and cleaned it with brake cleaner. The spindle felt pretty smooth.

Hmm. That's odd. Were you able to get it back together?

I sure did! I worked the rotor back off and saw spots of black build up slightly raised to the touch on the spindle where the bearing would sit. Some light sanding and hard scrubbing with brake cleaner and it slid on pretty smooth

Should be similar.

I don't know. It's more of a "feel" thing. There may be an actual spec, but I don't have it.

That's ok but for a beginner (me) replacing the bearings, I could tighten the axel nut just like how you did it in your video?

Yes. There may be a spec available, but with years of experience, I can say "feel" works. Ideally you're not tightening like a bolt, you're creating tension on the bearings.

+ELSDP-45 Getting closer. Just need to do this Mustang first... :o)

In the video he clarifies that it is indeed a 92 that he is working on. He mistakenly thought it was a 95 when he started.

@@Bonkrr ok cool

2 wheel.

As I look at it, there is little to no value to add grease to the spindle. It doesn't move, and the grease doesn't transfer around like oil.

it'll flow like water if it gets hot enough. i once packed some hubs full of grease(copped from uncle sam) on a small trailer, overloaded it to the point were i was breaking springs and popping tires as i pulled it cross country. the hubs hardly ever got luke warm when they should have been too hot to touch. in theory the cylinder walls of the hub will pull the grease around the spindle and mix with the heated grease from the bearings due to that stuff becoming runny and the fact that heat chases cold. so the heat acts as a pump to move grease in and out of the bearings and the the hubs stayed cooler due to lack of enough friction to heat up all that grease. i figure grease aint that expensive and as long as it dont ooze out and contaminate the rotor surface it shouldnt hurt anything so... why not?