Thank you, again.

Welcome to the old folks club. Can't believe I'll be 81 in 3 months.

Glad it was helpful!

Same love I had for it in 1968 when I was 25 years old and fixed my first clock.

As lightweight as those springs are, they can be dealt with by hand. No spring winder is needed.

Best not to pry them off; can distort the cover. Hold it in your hand with the winding arbor away from the palm and whack it on the workbench. Or, put a piece of wood against the winding arbor and whack it with a hammer. It will pop off.

Thank you.

Yes, but have you also checked for worn pivot holes?

@@dperry428 Thank you for your reply. I've checked the pivot holes and they are not worn at all. The mainspring size is barely twice the size of the barrel that's why I thought it could be the reason. It works fine without the chiming mechanism though. I guess triple chime movements lots of power to drive those hammers. Thanks a lot.

Somewhat expensive and, apparently, very popular. Here's where I got mine: www.ronellclock.com/product/accu-mainspring-winder/

Springs are just steel and can be recycled. Here's where I take mine: www.dimcodekalb.com/ It is much better just to order from a spring supplier or have springs made by a manufacturer. Here's an example: www.mcmaster.com/springs and another: www.centuryspring.com/products/constant-force-springs/ Better to use a spring with the characteristics for a specific design use.

@@dperry428 OK thank you. I'm new to this so first steps. Nice video thanks.

Yes, the spring needs to be replaced.

I hold comments for review to eliminate troll comments. Leave an email address in a comment and I'll contact you and delete the comment. It won't be seen by anyone but me.

The number stamped on the barrel cover applies only to movements made by the German manufacturer Hermle. What you need to do is measure the thickness of the spring, the width of the spring, and the length of the spring (as best you can), then look to a supplier for the nearest available size. Width is extremely important as it has to fit the width of the inside of the barrel. Timesavers is one supplier. timesavers.com/search.html?q=mainspring Ronell ronellclock.com/Hole-End_c101.htm Milehi clock supply milehiclocksupplies.com/mainspringxref.htm Merritt's www.merritts.com/merritts/public/productlist.aspx?CategoryID=1145

There's no such thing as an overwound spring. It can be so dry that it will not unwind, but it is not overwound. The only way to evaluate a spring is to remove it from the barrel, clean and lubricate it and also check to see if it is "tired". It should unwind to at least 2 1/2 times larger than the diameter of the barrel.

@@dperry428 Yeah it's been forgotten for 5 years. My goal is to try and bringing it back to life it's a sweet clock. Me and my dad will try to investigate more

The spring barrel arbor has a projecting hook at the center of the arbor that hooks the hole in the inner end of the mainspring. You might like to read about the construction of a clock on thhe NAWCC forum. Here: mb.nawcc.org/threads/building-a-pinwheel-skeleton-clock.67822/ If you scroll through the thread, you'll find a section on mainspring and barrel construction. Here is a picture of a mainspring arbor for sale at Timesavers. timesavers.com/i-8946092-winding-arbor-sleeve-41-54-55-barrels.html

@@dperry428 thank you very much, next thing is where to buy a mainspring. any suggestions? ( i hope i did not miss that in the article ) oh and here is a link to a pic of one of my latest clocks.. its 3d printed. works pretty good. 12hr per wind postimg.cc/WDv9jd6P the clock was ticking when i took pic so pendulum was to one side. I did all the design and printing of this. as you can see the weight parts take up alot of wall space , so thats why im looking to convert to a spring.. thanks in advance.

timesavers.com/i-8946082-669-x-015-x-43-3-hole-end-mainspring-for-40-hermle-barrel.html timesavers.com/i-8946083-827-x-0157-x-61-hole-end-mainspring-for-41-hermle-barrel.html

@@dperry428 You are the best. Thank you very much.

Certainly not the best, but you're welcome anyway.

The favorite the last few years with many repair people is "Slick 50 - 1 Lube". Or, you can purchase mainspring grease from a supply house timesavers.com/search.html?q=mainspring+grease

Sherline 4500 series 8" lathe

Replacement springs are ordered by measuring the width, thickness and length. If the barrel is missing teeth, it will need to be repaired (expensive) or replaced. Assuming that the movement is a Hermle movement, both barrel and spring can be replaced. A number on the barrel cover will give you all the information you need. timesavers.com/search.html?q=hermle+mainspring

You never use the cutout to open the cap as it risks bending and distorting it. With the cap facing upward, rap the downward facing arbor sharply on a piece of wood. The cap will pop off.

I don't understand the question. "repair barrel hood broken"??? Do you mean broken barrel hook, the part on which the hole in the spring catches? If that's what you're looking for, here is another person's video doing the repair. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i56ikpWr2s3Fops.html

@@dperry428 thanks

Repairing the hole in the outer end of the spring is easily done, but the inner hole repair could only be done by distorting the spring. I wouldn't even attempt it. Go to timesavers.com/files/tsvshipping2019.pdf and you'll see they ship internationally. Search for the spring you need and order a new one and have it shipped to you. You'll need to know the width, thickness and length of the spring you need.

Hey fellow Kiwi, just watching this video and see you are from NZ. I was born and raised there, mainly in Temuka and Christchurch South Island. Now live in Prairie Grove Arkansas in the Boston Moutains of the Ozark. Love working on clocks, just into collecting Morbier Comtoise clocks out of France. Have several hanging and several tall case clocks.

This one: www.amazon.com/Slick-50-43712012-Supercharged-Protectant/dp/B0016GXOXW It's a favorite of a number of clock repair people.

@@dperry428 thank you

I'm sorry, but I don't think I understand your question. I don't know what you mean by "winder barrel diameter". When I need to replace a spring, I remove it from the clock mainspring barrel, use a caliper and micrometer to measure the width and thickness of the spring, stretch out the spring and use a tape measure to measure its length. Then, I order a spring from the supplier that has those dimensions. What suppliers are you referring to when you say they "estimate length of spring by thickness and barrel diameter"? Of all the suppliers I use, none of them do that. I order mostly from Timesavers, Ronell Clocks, Merritt's, Mile-Hi Clocks and a number of others. Where do you order your springs? You might find this interesting and will, perhaps, answer what I'm guessing is your question. mb.nawcc.org/threads/mainspring-help.35250/#post-248821

@@dperry428 sorry if I wasn't clear, I am in the UK and just starting out. I saw an on line calculator which asked for the diameters/thickness and estimates the length for you. I have a broken mainspring (arbor end) that needs replacing and, hopefully soon, an Ollie Baker winder. The clock barrel internal diameter is 53 mm but the next size down barrel that comes with the OB winder is 44mm (the next up is 54mm which is too big). Not sure whether this is too big a difference or whether it doesn't matter! Hope this makes sense! ( Circa 1900 fuzee English dial click ck)

The sleeves that come with an Ollie Baker spring winder aren't barrels; they are retainers or collars that are inserted between the spring and the barrel wall after the spring is wound up so that it can then be removed from the clockspring barrel. For sizing a mainspring, the only diameter that is relevant is the clock barrel.

@@dperry428 OK thanks, my bad for using the wrong terminology - apologies! I was just hoping the spring for a 50mm barrel would wind down small enough for 44mm OB sleeve. Only one way to find out! Thanks for your time replying 👍

Sounds like an alarm clock. You can let the springs down. Just use a piece of dowel with a slot cut in the end to go over the wings of the key. Then, the springs are weak enough to just remove by hand.

@@dperry428 its actually a chiming mantal clock. The spring is in a brass barrel just like the clocks with the square key, but for some reason this clock has keys that screw in and then the part of the key you grab to wind folds in flush with the back of the clock. The dowel idea is a good one since i dont see any tools for this, i think ill just make that. Probably make an attachment like that for my spring winder too.

OK, that sounds like a novelty clock with a small movement, much like an alarm clock. I'd like to see it. Can you post a short video on your channel?

@@dperry428 i can, i will be disassembling if for a proper cleaning after the holidays when i have more time. I will do a video on this sometime in january.

Let me know when it's on line.

If you mean a "let down key" for releasing springs, here is a source: timesavers.com/i-8948362-let-down-set-with-six-chucks.html www.clockworks.com/product/clock-mainspring-let-down-tool-set-of-2 www.amazon.com/Winding-Letting-Release-3-5-5-25mm-Mainspring/dp/B0CGRL4TCV kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m5ypoNafts7DiZ8.html

Yes, many still do. In fact, for many years I did, too. To remove the spring from the barrel, long-nosed pliers are used to pull the first few inner coils out of the barrel and, using very careful control of the spring, slowly rotate and twist the spring from the barrel. The problem is that, in many cases, if this is not done very carefully, the spring distorts and ends up as a cone-shape instead of flat spiral. When the spring is put back into the barrel, it's cone shape causes it to rub against the barrel cover, seriously compromising power. Of course, if the spring isn't being reused, it doesn't matter, but you still need to use care removing it from the barrel or it can suddenly fly out and hit you in the face or tear heck out of a body part. To manually install a spring in a barrel, the hole end is place in proximity of the barrel hook and the spring slowly wound into the barrel. It is easy at the beginning and becomes increasingly more difficult as more of the spring is pushed in. The problems caused in doing this are that the coils of the spring are dragged edge against edge and burrs can be raised on the spring edges that will interfere with function and power. I've seen people skilled enough to both remove and install them bare-handed, but I never would attempt it without leather gloves. I had my share of accidents taking them out as well as on installing. I'm glad I have the spring winder. At 76, I doubt I have the hand strength anymore to put a spring back in manually. There's no scarier feeling than to have a spring almost back in the barrel, not having the strength to finish the job and now have to take it back out.

Here's a video of a fellow doing what I just described. Note his right thumbnail. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eJ2Fh7Fplq2YnoE.html

If you are asking about this particular movement, which is a Hermle movement, a number is stamped on the barrel that contains the spring. Clock supply houses sell them based on that number. For any clock, you have to measure the width, thickness and length of the spring to be replaced and order one to match those measurements.

Seth Thomas model 120 movement needs new springs. The chime spring broke or came unhooked. It's a clock that's worth ~$120 and the repairman wants $275 just to clean it. I'm thinking dumpster the sucker and buy another antique clock.

@@mikeries8549 Why not offer it for sale on eBay and someone else will repair it or use it for parts? You can use the money to buy another clock.

I don't understand.

l don't know what you are asking.

I don't make clocks; I just repair those that people already have.

timesavers.com/search.html?q=hole+end+mainspring ronellclock.com/Hole-End_c101.htmsessionid=6F53691663A21BF4DF88D731E49AF72D.p3plqscsfapp001 www.merritts.com/merritts/public/productlist.aspx?CategoryID=1145 milehiclocksupplies.com/81.pdf perrinwatchparts.com/collections/clock-barrels-and-clock-mainsprings

@@dperry428 thank you

If you think that will work, go ahead. Once the spring is expanded and not fully into the barrel, good luck getting it the rest of the way in without damaging spring or spring hook. You'll end up having to pull it back out and hand winding it in anyway.

Good point

Sorry, that's not how it works.

I only work on clocks during winter. I'm done for this year. Make a comment next October with an email address and i'll contact you. I hold comments for review, so no one but I will see your email address.

After more than 50 years of working on clocks, I completely disagree with you. The so-called "oil/grease" in a new spring is not a proper lubricant. It is a thick anti-rust compound that is a lousy lubricant. The spring may work for a time, but you're looking for future problems if you don't clean and lubricate with a KNOWN substance. I'm also amazed, when I clean a new spring, how much manufacturing dirt and grit is in some of them. That's not what I want in a movement I've just spent hours rebuilding. Do as you want, but I simply wouldn't follow your advice nor would I advise any of my viewers to, either.