Thanks! I found some options so far; I just wasn't sure if that stuff is anything "special" but yes, it just seems to be faux leather.

Thanks! I can't properly do color processing myself, but I develop my own B/W pictures whenever I have time. I hope to have another camera on my bench soon, but 2020 and 2021 strikes here too: I'm not getting around as much as I would like to shop for such pieces.

Thanks! I did take it apart that far because it had lots of sand in it. It might have been a plaything for some kid at a time for all I know. But it was a cheap 2nd hand find and I'm happy that I got it into proper working order again. I am by no means an expert on the differnt types of grease and oils, I usually go for stuff that gets gears moving smoothly; there is a bit of trial and error to a hobbyist like me. But I totally agree that one type for all is not enough. Also, I general try to keep the lubrication away from any non-metal parts as far as possible. With all these plastics available, no telling what reaction it might have. Again: experts on the field of material science will know of course - but it's hard to even identify the exact type of material to the layman like me :)

Thanks! I am only a hobbyist but I do my best to get things done. I hope my little videos provide a bit of entertainment along the way.

@@atkelar Haha, well, it's impressive none the less. I own a Praktina IIa, which is of the same lineage of the camera in your video. Maybe one day I'll be brave and tear it down to totally restore it.

Once you are ready: Slow and steady wins the race - don't force anything you don't want to break ;) And make lots of pictures before taking off the next part. It helps wen re-assembling. Especially the parts where an exact relation between gears is needed, like the shutter timer in this model. I only had to try three different alignments to find the correct one. It's countless possibilities though.

Thank you!

Awesome! Nice to hear! I hope you have many nice pictures ahead of you!

Thank you! I still call it "tinkering" because I don't really want to do the same stuff all year... which is probably also why KZfaq can't quite put my stuff into particular categories. I love hearing from other people's projects. It is very satisfying to know that a video is either an inspiration or a satisfying watch to likely minded individuals.

@@atkelar You're much welcome! I really like your videos, and hope you keep up this energy all the way! But I would like to ask you for some advice or hints. I have purchased a few days a Zorki 2-C 1956 model (I love it really much, even though I can't use it!). I have some problems with the slower shutter speeds. They function correctly only if I keep the camera (and the lens) pointing upwards, otherwise if a I set the speed say to 1/25 (that's the lowest on this model) then is runs down after pushing the shutter release as it were 1/500th of a second. Since I bought the camera I was very careful to set the speed only after cocking the shutter. And I have some light infiltration too trough the curtain in the cocked position. I have cleaned it to a point, removed the front cover entirely, yet I dare not go further, especially at the top where the optics for the rangefinder is... It really runs now a lot smoothly then whey I acquired the Zorki, yet I don't know if it was many times mishandled in the past (the shutter speed set before cocking the shutter). Do you think the camera could be serviceable to properly function again by the fails I have just described? Thank you in advance for your reply.

Hmm... difficult to tell without knowing the exact way the cogs and springs interact in this model. If it's ralted to "gravity" (i.e. holding it one way or the other), I'd guess some bearing might be worn out. So some gears might only mesh correctly when gravity helps them along. Since the wound up shutter is pushing/pulling in one direction, some worn gears or bearings might need gravity to make sure they mesh upon release. But since I don't know how the particular mechanism is working, I can't be certain. I'd try to remove the cover to peek at the gears and find out what rund differently between one orientation or the other. Careful when winding up these mechanisms without the cover though: I've seen the cover hold down at least one peg before :) Unless gears are stripped, it should be fixable, making some shims for bearings is simple enough. Maybe even new gears... but that's a lot of work, since they are most likely not stock versions.

@@atkelar Thank you so much for the help! Yes, you're right in many respects, spot on right! But at his stage I found with my Zorki-c2 that the wind mechanism is partially jammed by the old stiffened grease. It really needs a good CLA, and a new shutter curtain. I am looking forward to have it cleaned by a professional, as I would really do it myself, because I have already amassed a nice (and great) lecture and manuals on the topic when finally I managed to find somebody who is willing to thoroughly clean and repair it in every respect. Rangefinders are a whole different world, but they have their merits to have them fixed, even if it will cost more than the price they have been bought by!

Ah... grease. I am still looking for something proper myself. So far, every "grease" I used, caused more gunking up than smoothing out. For everything that needs to move rapidly - like the clockwork mechanism - I tend to use a fine oil now. It might not be perfect, but these old machines run maybe a few times a year, so I think using oil instead of grease on faster moving parts shouldn't cause any issue. For slower or manually moved things, like focus rings or similar, I usually go with grease.

To the best of my knowledge, it was an "East German" company that made those. Not entirely sure about the timeline though, my historic knowledge is limited. (BTW: I still couldn't figure out what CLA stands for in this context... Google is no help here 😊)

@@atkelar Yeah I know it's technically East German and I like East German made because they're interesting and at times quite quirky, for example once I saw a Pentina made by KW (Pentacon) a decade after this Praktica, basically a leaf shutter SLR with left handed controls (shutter release button and film winder are on the left) and it has weird rectangular body, and I actually wanted Praktina, the first system SLR, made by KW roughly at the same time as this Praktica, prior to Nikon F (1959) which I have now (I love Nikon F though). CLA stands for "cleaning, lubricating, and adjusting", very common among film camera enthusiasts

Ah! Thanks for clearing up the acronym. Since I am tinkering in all sorts of fields, I can't keep up with all minute details of every one of them. I'm just here, having fun on my workbench and sharing the results.

@@atkelar It's great that you can work with various stuff and I wish some day I can fix vintage cameras on my own (yes I like to tinker various things occasionally) 😀

Thank you!

If you mean the lower of the two dials on top: it is a left-handed thread, i.e. it unscrews to the right. So: the top one is held in by a small screw and just pulls off once the screw is removed. The lower (larger) one can be unscrewed clockwise once you can hold on to the axle inside. It might be stuck on the thread, but all that was holding it on in my model was a thread on the axle.

Thanks! I'll add that one to the list and give it a try when I have some spare change again ☺

Thanks! - and sorry, not particularly that part; I generally put the curtains into the camera. As for the tension, I made sure that I wound them up to the point that the realaxed version had enough tension that they were straight and didn't make any kinks, so I could do the alignment. The alignment between the "windows" and the frame should be so that winding the camera transports the windows past the frame. I only had one position on the gears that gave me that: A tooth too early or too late made it that the window in the curtain was not covering up the frame on either the relaxed or the wound up side, so that is pretty easy. During winding, the windows should also overlap so there is no light coming through. Then tried a medium shutter speed, tightening them as equally as I could until the shutter speed was "within reason" of the expected value. As I don't have a proper meter to check that, I had to film it and count frames on the video clip, hence I used a "meduim" speed, so I could capture enough to be sure. Since there isn't any adjustment to trim different speeds, I am pretty sure the other speeds match as good as possible too.

Thanks! It's been a while :) - I didn't really adjust much for the focus to be honest. It's an old camera with a see through focus anyhow; I think that if the distances between the mirror, the film plane and the viewfinder glass are the same again (based on notches or dimensions, they should) - anything that is in focus in the viewfinder will be in focus on the film too and so far, that's been the case. There might be minute differences in the depth of field but that's details beyond 35mm to begin with, I think.

Thanks! I am afraid I can't answer the question though; I only have this one lens that would fit at all; There is a push rod linkage inside that closes the aperture upon triggering, not sure if that part was ever standardized, but it might work with a manual aperture of course.

I didn't... I just sat down with a set of screwdrivers, tweezers and a magnification glass and worked my way through it, one screw at a time. This is also why I am hesitating to claim full knowledge about it; I managed to take it apart, clean it, put it back together again in a way that makes it work (and quite nice pictures came from it) - it is news to me that there is little to no information about the camera; it seems to have been quite a standard model in that timeframe.

I would have to check the insides again, but the curtains' sprockets are connected to a set of gears. If the timing between them is off, it behaves as you described. It did take a few tries with different ralationships between the gears (one leading or trailing the other) but eventually I found the right combiniation.

@@atkelar Thank you very much for your ansver, I will try to make some gear combinations again

@@atkelar Thanks, I just found the problem... One gear was one teeth beside... So the second curtain could not bite and it closed immediately. Thanks, have a nice day and tahnk you for your videos!

Ahh! That is the same question I wanted to ask!!! Now I know where to search. Thanks. I will report if I find the problem myself. 😊

Thanks for the request - I am currently on holiday so the reply took a bit, sorry. The thing with doing things on commission is that around here that almost immediately counts as commercial application. And I lack the license for that. Also the insurance: I could not afford to replace any damaged parts, which would eventually happen because the old parts are sometimes brittle. So, sadly: no, at least not for the foreseeable future. As for advise: #1 do not use force, unless you absolutely 100% double checked that it is needed. Sometimes one overlooks a screw or bolt and things go snap all to quick. #2 make a TON of reference pictures when taking things apart. Multiple angles, close ups, overviews... and include a size reference for the screws (like a ruler) #3 if you just want to remove some dust, maybe don't go as far as I did ;) Use an air can to blow out any lingering dust and/or a soft brush and even then: be gentle.

Thanks! I usually find my projects (cameras being just one of many different ones) at second hand stores or ebay. So far, it's only a hobby.

The gearing in the top gearbox (visible around 5:53 and again around 15:13) needs to be tuned: both of the stacked larger gear that pull on the curtains need to pull at the same time but during the release, the first one needs to go while the second one is held back at least slightly. The clockwork in the bottom then controlls how long that delay is. It took a bit of trial and error to find the correct position between those; I couldn't get a clear shot of the process, so I didn't put it into the video.

@@atkelarthank you for the quick reply, I will have a look at it later today

I can't answer that directly, since I don't have an FX3 - But if it's anywhere near the FX2 one, There shouldn't be anything preventing it from going up. It's either held open by the shutter linkage or should snap up and out of the way with its own spring. The video shows that process at about 11:13 - So the only thing I can imagine is either a weak spring (myba parcially broken?) or a foreign object in the way of the mirror; If the mirror is still mounted with these screwed on clips, maybe it shifted slightly and is itself in the way now?

Hello! You can ask rigt along... I just can't promise I have an answer to begin with. I do this as a hobby on random devices I find and a Praktika FX (i.e. the first model) is not amongst those. So if the question is generic enough, I might be able to help...

​@@atkelar That is understood. I do not have your skills for sure but I aim to improve myself. And thank you. I will just describe some things I am going through hoping you remember and can understand what I mean. I am hoping your remember some of the trouble shooting you mentioned at the end.: The two screens moving/not moving problem you mentioned I have as well; perhaps you remember what you did/where the problem lies. This first Praktina has both the timing and film transport mechanisms at the top intertwined. Very difficult to put back but not impossible. Aligning the two curtains is difficult; where do I put them? I though I put both of the metal curtain clamps at the right on top of each other. But I think then they will move at the same time and not let any light through. Even worse, the curly spring on the timer has popped off. There is this wedge that moves out on a spring, to block the second curtain, and then it slowly winds out/back and releases. Its the silver tension spring that drives the wedge out into the curtain release wheel. Its the copper curly spring attached directly to the gear wheel that is (I think) supposed to have it retract when the shutter is pressed (and the double timer wheel is in effect). This has popped of and I have tried to re..curl it. It doesn't seem to work. I don't understand how those two springs could drive out the wedge and then retract it. They would both have the same strength/tension and cancel each other out OR one would be more powerful but then it would stop it from either moving out or retracting. This is a lot of text. Thank you for reading it at all =))

Difficult to grasp wthout some pictures to go with it; Do you have a way of sharing pictures by URL? I know YT does not allow URLs, but if you mention the sharing site and whatever "ID" the picture has, I think I can get there without a clickable link. I can then also be sure to not be had by some in-between service ;) Anyhow: In general, the curtains "start" their cycle on the springloaded take up wheel with the springs there relaxed, just so that the "end" of the second curtain is out of the visual frame and the first curtian is "open" across the film. When winding up, both curtains *must* move at the same time, thus the open side of curtain 2 will end up over the film and the closed side of curtain one is covereing it now. During release, curtain one starts and opens up a visible path between itself and curtain 2. Depending on the selected time, dictated by either gear positions or a delay timer (in case of the FX 2!) the second curtain will be released and follows, ideally with the same speed, so the exposure will be a "slit" between the two moving curtains. I hope this makes it a bit clearer as to where the problem in the controlling gears lies. In my case, I had the meshing between the curtain winding gears and the control gear wrong, so there was no delay. I had to move one of the curtains (the closing one) over a few teeth so it started with the right delay.

@@atkelar Gimme a sec

That step took a bit of trial and error on my side as well; It is rather easy to try different combinations and "home in" on the one that works though: The power for the mechanism is delivered from the curtain springs; keeping them at low tension for the beginning makes it easy to test things while the case is still open. That way there is less chance of "sproing" incidents. The sprockets on the curtains connect to the timing gearset with a little clamp that makes it easy to shift them over one tooth during trials without completely removing the parts - visible at the 15:15 mark. I found that all the other gears are easy and either don't care about alignment or are obvious if they have limited range; but the connection between the curtain and the two stacked timing gears on top are the ones that need tweaking: The first shutter needs to be well on its way before the second one releases, and if the mesh is off, it will cuase them both to run at the same time, or get stuck: another reason to keep trials with lower than normal spring tension.

​@@atkelar Thank you for your kind reply! Hmmm. I am not yet trying to mess with the curtains, though. The winding mechanism is not working, because the counting lever (seen at 6:15 and 13:55) keeps getting stuck in a groove of the rewind knob causing it to stop prematurely and getting stuck in such a way, the curtains wouldn't move at all. I suspect it's bent somehow and/or not making enough clearance. But how would it do so? It might be pushed by the gear at 6:15 (right most gear), but it doesn't.

I did it! I'll try to come up with an explanation tomorrow.

It would be easier if YT would allow pictures in comments; but I think what happened is that the "stop" mechanic, that is supposed to stop the wind up after exactly one frame, is off by a bit compared to the windup of the curtains? The rightmost gear in 6:15 is the lower of the two timing/curtain gears and the notch needs to be on the correct side of the overlapping counterpart on the one above it, so they are "taking along each other" in the correct direction. This makes it possible for the curtains to be wound up together but release one after the other. Again, without sharing pictures, it's a bit hard to diagnose.

@@atkelar Okay, I'll try to explain. First of all, I'd recommend installing the slow gear at the bottom last. Then assemble the winding gears as shown in the video while observinge the following hints (directions are give as if in the normal-use direction of the camera): 1. the S-shaped lever's left part rests under the gear for the closing cloth and hast to be seated between the welded stop of the baseplate and the stop on the wheel. 2. In this position insert the closing cloth's axle, turn it a few times to make sure, the curtain's window is correctly set to the frame, then replace the bracked holding the two curtain axles. You can then turn the axle counterclockwise so the wheel turns clockwise and you can eventually nestle the S-lever's lever in betwee said stops. The s-shaped part then gives way for the winding knob to turn. 3. repeat Step 2 for the closing curtain. The upper gear also has a welded stop which should stop turning counter-clockwise at the stop of the lower gear. 4. Replace the winding knob gear on the right; it's also got a stop on the underside which also needs to rest against a stop on the baseplate turning counter clockwise. 5. adjust teeth alignment, curtain alignment/tension etc. until satisfied. // This explanation might sound quite crude, but I hope it might be somewhat helpful.

It's been a while... but the left handed thread knob needs the flat screwdriver to turn the center part (clockwise to unscrew) and at the same time I pulled out the timing selection ring on the outside, just to make sure that I don't turn anything else accidentally. It might not be needed since the center rotates anyhow. It took a minor bit of force, yes, since it has to overcome the tightened thread. At least my model had no additional clips or locking screws.

@@atkelar appreciate your reply all these years later. I was able to get it thanks to you confirming I was doing it right. Much appreciated!

Years later? Did I miss a reply or is KZfaq comments confused again? 🤔 So far I thought I replied to everybdoy within a day or two at the most..

​@@atkelarno, I meant on a many years old video. Most people wouldn't even bother replying on such an old video

Oh, OK. I have the comments set to "manually approve" - just to avoid the whole bots that have fake lottery winnings and such. With as few comments I get it's still feasable to reply to almost all of them, and with the approval they also prominently show up.

I assume the parts in questin are polished metal? If so, I think the only way to properly get rid of them would be some sanding with high grit sandpaper (wet sanding perhaps even) and then polishing the metal to get it to shine again. This is quite some work though, and naturally should be done when the parts are not assembled; sanding dust inside a delicate device is a no-go. I'm afraid I am not aware of an easier way to remove scratches. Be sure to test on a lesser visible spot first, some metals are not as easy to "buff" as others; also, if the piece is coated, sanding will remove the coating and produce an even worse result. It's why I generally just make sure that major scratches are at least not sharp edged and keep minor ones as "patina". If the metal is "dull", it's more easy: find the proper grit sandpaper and try to match the surrounding as close as possible (like with brushed aluminium)

Hmm... The first question would be: is it still under tension? It may be either a spring that needs some winding up or a stuck gear. Can you (VERY carefully) try to help the curtain along? Does it still move?

@atkelar yes, I have carefully closed the shutter with a clothe over a flat screw driver. This fixes the issue temporarily, but about 6 shutter releases later, it's back to staying slightly open. I have never opened the camera, but it seems like no one in my area will take this camera for repair, so I want to try myself.

It seems to be an issue with lubrication and/or dirt in the gears then. Anything broken would most likely not even work once. And since it does work for a bit, I'd say the spring is wound up enough. I would remove the top and bottom cover only, try a bit of compressed air to rid possible dust bunnies and apply droplets of fine oil to the visible gears first. Use a needle or a piece of small wire to apply the oil, it doesn't take much and there is "too much" 😁

@@atkelar ahh I see. I really appreciate your help. FYI, your channel is superb! Love watching restoration videos.

And this is exactly, why I doubt that my tinkering would work as a business model. I doubt many people would pay so much for this type of restortions.

I think it might have served as a kids toy at some time in its life... I can't see how it would have collected that much in normal use.

Having now seen the whole thing, this is seriously impressive work, well done!

Lots of nerdy folk grew up with Muppets... so that's the general idea. While I don't mind 5yo watching, they are certainly not my demographic. I hope the part of the tech folk that isn't feeling nostalgic for puppetry can tolerate the puppet enough to enjoy the various projects.

@@atkelar It was just a light hearted comment, it's a good video.

Thanks! It's hard to tell from the plain text comments, so I err on the side of cuation 😅 Besides, there is an ever so slight risk that some automated process might put me into the "for children" category just for my choice of narrator, despite my actual content.

@@atkelar I should probably have added some emojis, but it's a new phone today and I couldn't find them! Happy new year 🎉