I'm sure these stand the test of time if they are properly stored. It's just that my unit was in a rather damp environment. I'd still double check on the capacitors though: these can be ticking timebombs, especially wax coated ones and electrolytics.

So far, I can say it's an awesome device. I'm pretty sure there are more comprehensive or maybe even higher quality ones from various vendors out there, but this model always "spoke to me" - i.e. the feature set and design kind of make it stand out to me.

I think that Atkelar IS the best for restoration equipment .

Thanks! But I kinda sorta play it by ear most of the time - "great skill" is a bit exaggerated 😅 I have considered trying the electrolysis rust removing idea for some of the larger components; I have a barrel that would work... but that's something for summer time. Also, need to figure out the exact chemistry so I don't blow up the house with hydrogen fumes.

@@atkelar As far as I can tell, sodium bicarbonate or sodium carbonate is the only chemical component. I've seen this done, in person and on KZfaq, but have not physically done it myself. I don't believe that the gas emission is any worse than for your nickel plating, and on small scale the plastic dish you used for plating may be enough. Agree that it would be good to know for sure, and to know that off-gassing was H2 and/or CO2, and not Chlorine gas or CO. But it might save the fingerprints (paw prints?) ! "Great skills" probably is relative -- relative to mine. Keep up your great channel. Looking forward to the next installment.

Thanks, will do! The second half of the video is in the works... but day job intervened heavily.

Not sure if it is edible though... I didn't find any mice in it for one. 😸

Depending on the type, it would probably look similar than this one; lots of wires and some switches. It is a good idea to service it before using it on actual tubes though, if you ever get around to that :)

I can't recall the specific value; but these meters are either tuned as current or voltage meters. I generally put them against low voltage with a series resistor (1 meg, then 100k and 10k) first to see if it's a current one (those are almost dead shorts) then I start with a low voltage and carefully ramp up. If they don't move with the resistor, I remove that and repeat. In this particular case the meter was working before I took it apart, so I made a note about the required voltage to fully deflect the needle and the one for half way, so I could match that after rebuilding it.