Thank you very much for turning on subtitles. Us few Deaf and hard-of-hearing CRT fans greatly appreciate it. 😄. Great shooting and editing, btw.

What a transformation, I pick up something new all the time from these videos. 👏

Dr. Steve is in the operating room to help repair these PVM beauties folks. A valued member in the community for sure. 8^)

Super great information.

Great video! Kinda interesting how much you were able to find with just a visual inspection of the parts. Seems like usually folks go in with scopes and stuff, but I guess this method would be the way to start!

Steve is the MASTER!

Fantastic video

hi Steve, awesome video. but next time could you show us how you do your continuity checks, how you know which one is a diode and how you check it, globally how you check a power board when it's not a capacitor that is failing. thank you so much

Awesome!

awesome video , keep it up

I grabbed a 1342q from 91 a few years back and it’s kinda just sat. Powers on looks ok. But caps I need to take a look at those. Old college tv studio tossed that and a 2950q.

Thanks for the great vid! Hey I have a 1340 version of this monitor but it’s only showing in a grayish blue color. I replaced the jungle chip but that didn’t help. Just wondering if you’ve heard of that or any tips on where to look. Thanks.

Well great job

i have one of these and it has glowing grey spots in the backlit zone test on 240p test suite (despite the screen and sub bright pots being at the lowest setting). when it isn't set to RGB the set shows a totally black screen (no grey spots). any thoughts? i already had a recap done

Just wanted to say thank you again for all of your extremely helpful videos! I just picked one of these up for cheap as it would only show the four lights on the control panel like yours did after you replaced your caps. I hunted down that soldered in fuse and made a temporary jump using a glass fuse and some test leads and it fired right up like yours! I don't have access to any parts boards, so I'm wondering if any slow blow fuse will work as long as it has the same mA and Voltage? Pretty excited to get it fixed as the inside of this unit was clean enough to eat out of and I was the first one to open it up it appears.

Hi, could you give me some advice I have a Qnix 2710 27inch monitor and it will no longer turn on. I watched some videos and found a handy tip to tell if its the power board or invertor( I think its called inverter board)I turned it on without the smaller board(the one that is separate from the board where the power goes in)and the power light comes on but with that board connected it does not power on at all.....So I think it is the smaller board, I replace a capacitor that looked slightly bad but still no luck. I can not find a replacement board it says this on it: m270dan 1.0 LX-LD273G5 1.0 I assume the m270dan 1.0 is the screen and the other is the board, I am forced to use an old screen and really need my 27inch to work especially during these times (Covid) so could you give me some advice or maybe a place where I can get a replacement board as long as its not expensive?

Hi. Just watched your video on single horizontal line across crt screen, could I please ask your opinion, Mine is an old Toshiba 37 inch crt, working perfectly until two evenings ago, when switched on showed just the single line across screen, (sound was working fine) tried the obvious of unplugging, switch on and off etc, of course that did nothing, then I said to the wife let’s try the old fashion method, I banged the top with closed fist twice and picture was restored to normal, that was fine until next evening when same happened again, whacked it and it came on again, so here is where I’m asking your opinion if I may, I’m thinking the fact it worked after whacking it means no components are faulty and it’s a connection or solder joint gone bad ? What do you think ? Any info would appreciated, I have no experience repairing TVs but quite used to fiddling with electrical things.

I have the exact same issue on my 1943md, the f602 fuse is broken. As the part is really hard to find, do you think I can replace it with a fast blow glass fuse ? The manual says 800mA, but the broken fuse is marked as 1A, I would go according to the manual to be safe. Thank you very much for all your great videos!!

I have a PVM with the tally light. It powers on but the tally light only lights up orange. There's no video signal. Any ideas?

How do you safely discharge the anode if it's glued on there and can't be reached with a screwdriver?

I have a 1440qm that won’t turn on. The board seems the same. What exactly was the fuse you replaced ?

Nice video! Is there a list or place to check monitor year by serial number?

hello i have the problem of g2 voltage can you tell me where is the regulator to fix the error? thanks

Hello steve I need ur assistance in helping my REALISTIC STEREO TV from 1990 the indicator lights come on the bottom But there is NO high voltage going to the picture tube!

My little kv 14" trini degausses but shows no picture or standby light. :( Any ideas?

Apologies for this question. In between each time you are working on and testing the television, are you discharging it for each of those times before working on it again?

How dangerous is repairing a pvm compared to a crt? Im still rather new to learning about crt's. But I have a 1342q and want to possibly be able to fix problems it might have down the line, and of course not electrocute myself in the process. Thank you.

I have this exact model and have a question for you relative to discharging the anode cap. The cap has been epoxy’d on like the pvm in your video. I’ve been told that this can sometimes indicate the presence of a high voltage leak, but your video states that this was relatively standard practice for a monitor manufactured during the 80s (mine was made in 88). Is it safe to remove the epoxy, discharge, and work on the board as one would regularly (if I take the normal steps and precautions)? Should I re-epoxy the anode cap after I complete the work I intend to perform (simple recap of deflection circuit), or is it safe without re-epoxy? I know this is an old video, but any help would be greatly appreciated as I don’t want to have to give up on this PVM.

This gives me hope for my consumer set that won't power on (NEC CT2750S). Annoyingly I'm going blind with no documentation online.

Always check the FOCUS on the flyback transformer plays a major role in the CRT tube

Got one of these for cheap. I think I might work on it tomorrow!

Do you know where I can order a replacement fuse? My Sony pvm has the same exact issue.

The reset light flashed when you turned on the monitor. So it was getting a little bit of power. But not enough. The fuse is the same type as in the SNES too. Overall a nice monitor with Analog and Digital RGB. The Digital RGB is the d-sub on the back. You could probably use it with a Tandy Co-Co

How did u end up working on this monitor without being to discharge it using a screwdriver? Thinking about picking one of these up and might need to do some work on it. Thanks in advance!

Hi was it discharged with the anode cap epoxied like that?

this video motivated me to go back and save my old HD CRTTV Samsung Tantus.. it is totally dead not even standby led. I guess the problems is the SMPS

On the European versions (1440, 1442 and 1444QM), there's a component labelled PS602 rated for 125V and 0.8A where F602 goes on the American ones. I wonder if it actually serves the same purpose and it's also right in the 115V line. And when I test mine, it also appears dead (no continuity) and the 1444QM in question does show very similar behaviour. This might well be the culprit in my case too. Edit: it looks like the part is an SOC 800mA fuse and not that easy to find. I wonder if I won't end up jumping that fuse (I checked my 115V line and it looks okay on the multimeter).

Steve ur AWESOME!!!! See that replace CAPACITORS!!!!!

@ 7:32 you found the second fuse that had no continuity, which you replaced and power was restored to the PVM. You said the tube was a little bright and an adjustment had to be made to the G2 voltage because it was too high, how was that adjustment performed? Also, what do you use to generate the patterns that appear towards the end of the video which act as aids as you adjust geometry and the like via the potentiometers?

How much do you charge for a job like this?

the god of crts

I have a 1442QM, it looks very similar to this one. I'm still afraid of taking a look on the inside, as always because of that damn flyback.

My fixes are never as easy as these. Turn it on, the relay clicks and Immediately turn yourself off again. With no visual damage leakage or anything. Good luck troubleshooting that if an working powersuplyboard checks out the same with a multimeter.

I don’t want to throw away a good working crt. I’m thinking of giving this a shot but it seems complicated

Just bought a 1443MD for $20 with pretty much the same issue. Hope I can fix it. --- EDIT: Interesting, Sony probably noticed the issue with that leaky capacitor. They used one with a body 2x the size in the 1443MD. They used the same value, but with a body of 32x16mm (hxw)

Where are the best places to find these in the wild? I’m a broke student and can’t afford to pay $1,000 for a gaming monitor lol I’m tired of worn out consumer sets I need at least a 14” and would be ecstatic to find a 20” or a wide screen model I’ve called all over my town and gone in and asked where I can no one has any or they aren’t willing to check even for cash 😂

First thing to check the fuse on a CRT board

Always replace and check the FUSE

CAPACITORS and FUSES

Please in subtitle spanish🙏

Did sony really invent Trinitron? I heard that the aperture grid was invented by the C.F.T. (compagnie française de television) in 1967 and Sony brought the patent. Is it true? See the french wiki trinitron file.

first (I know no one cares)