I've got boxes of parts now. Can often put together stuff I want to try out from the scraps. Still have to buy special parts, but overall it does save time and money!

tsbrownie I have the box, I just need the electronics now!

Thanks. You have excellent reuse ideas!

This was shot back in my prehistoric days at 720 resolution.

I do it all the time. Make sure they are not damaged. Test them first if possible.

No that's a first. I've had some people say I sound like a couple different anime characters.

Corrosion will destroy just about everything. The core might be usable if it was carefully cleaned and was not pitted, cracked or otherwise damaged. You'd have to replace the winding exactly as they were, but depending on the criticality of the circuit, it's possible. Probably more trouble / cost than it's worth for most things.

ASICs are uninteresting, but you may find DRAM, flash ROM, CPLD, GPIO extender, level shifter... that you can reuse if you study their datasheet, design a one-off project with them (choosing a microcontroller or FPGA that can handle them), and can draw a circuit board for it, and can send /pay an order to a board factory, and can solder them, then test, write firmware, debug, build case...If the system is old enough, some RF circuitry may be not too much integrated and there may be RF chips usable somewhere else. If it is even older, you may find 5V integrated circuits that are more easy for beginners to tinker with, either DIP packages directly on a breadboard or SMD soldered on an adapter, then wired to a hobbyist-friendly microcontroller platform like the Arduino mega2560 or another that is 5V I/O tolerant, that has enough pins for 8-bit parallel data bus and some address lines.

Never done the heat gun thing, will have to try that!

I probably gassed and poisoned myself while recycling lots of components with a paint stripper heat gun during my late teen years. As it does not have a thermostat, the board is likely to be overheated well beyond solder melting point, unlike a proper hot air tool for SMD. I should get a thermal camera or wireless infrared thermometer to find how long is enough with the heat gun. Do it only outdoors or with suitable ventilation like a solder fume extraction system !

If the leads are long enough for your projects. If short leads are ok, then yes.

@@tsbrownie thanks dude

Even those ceramic brown capacitors,the white female connector ls and those green polyester capacitors?

@Ryle Desira Belli I've got lots of recovered parts of all types. Literally thousands. It depends on your time and how much money you have to buy new. I was broke as a student, so.... If you have a parts tester, you can tell which are good/bad.

@@tsbrownie thanks for the advice

The more legs something has the harder it is. Two legs are pretty easy, 3 tougher, 4 about the max for most people.

Ron Thompson inductors create a magnetic field around themselves and create an induced voltage. They’re created by wrapping wire around a cylinder. The more wraps there are per centimeter or whatever, the stronger the magnetic field is, therefore making a stronger induced voltage.

@@fluidapple9091 thanks for the info.

Probably not a good idea because most motors needing a startup cap are AC and caps from a CPU are DC. You can probably do it, but finding one is easier / safer.

@@tsbrownie can you make a tutorial on it please. Our country has DC Motors.

Sorry, youtube did not flag your comment, I found it by accident. I googled "dc motor starting capacitor" and there are caps on DC motors, but they are there to reduce spikes rather than for startup. Of course you can put a cap across the DC power source, but the real trick is knowing how much flyback there will be from the motor. That reverse voltage spike can be really high (it's short lived, so it's hard to measure without an oscilloscope or similar) will kill a low voltage cap very quickly. I've used a neon bulb to trap that spike in a 12 volt car, and the flyback will light up a 70v neon bulb.

Solder contains lead. Lead is toxic. When heated it releases toxic gas. Always work in a well ventilated place and NEVER around food or where people eat. ALSO, many electronic parts contain toxic materials. AND many parts are destroyed by prolonged high temperatures. So oven / stove and similar = bad idea.

There's software that helps lay out the tracing and such. But it's like a tiny factory where each section is doing something different, but it's a standard function (chip). The trick is connecting up each of those sections into 1 functioning board. And it's often several engineers working together each with a knowledge of one part.

And it looks even more baffling if you look at a silicon die under a microscope... try to recycle boards with vintage ASIC's or microprocessors in ceramic package with gold plated lid, and unsolder the lid. You may even find doodles left by designers, as seen on micro.magnet.fsu.edu/creatures/index.html

True, but in salvaging I learn new techniques, learn about new parts that you don't see for years in regular outlets, ... and all the while I usually listen to music and go all zen.

then...all of a sudden(4 weeks)...the borders are closed, factories shut down world wide, shipping world trade at a standstill , oil being overproduced and most give it away cheaper than clean water...and you need a 43 cents worth of 1/2 watt resistors to finish a project... a year ago you might have scoffed, laughed and said yes yea but this and what if... you pay the man one way or another, eventually. there is no easy ride and there is no such thing as cheap. Well see a lot more perception shifts on what is trash and what has redeemable value the next few decades