Thanks for watching and the comment. That's an interesting observation, and one I had myself when I was rewatching a video on the STS-1230, (may have been the same one you commented on). I was thinking the same thing however and may try putting it back to normal polarity to see what happens. When listening to the speakers individually, I can really tell the difference. Listening to both together, it's not as obvious.

@@wattspeakers Thank you very much,Sir for your prompt and very very humble reply.

Thank you for watching and the suggestion Sean! I have an option on my Dayton Omnimic DVD for something called "pseudo noise", which I think may be the same as pink noise, (not sure at the time I'm replying), and in my most recent video on the STS-1230 I tried that just to see what it was. The pseudo noise made a static blast that looked similar to a full sweep response. I re-watched that today, and it might be what you're talking about. When you've got time, check out the snip where I run the pseudo noise, so let me know if this is the same as the pink noise you described. kzfaq.infoUgkxSkpKrepV-ITNqrg0BoRcCMpG9U2jQ_FI Thanks again!

@@wattspeakers I just watched that video. And yes, pseudo sounds like pink noise to me. I just found and subscribed to your channel. I'm a fellow hobbyist. I"m building a pair of towers-8" woofers, 5" mids, and 1" tweeters. Maybe I'll have a video of them some day.

Sounds nice! I've got two pairs of similarly sized towers, a pair of Energy RC-70's that are the left front, left right for my home theater setup, and some super cool AudioFile speakers. The AudioFile speakers are the most recent project speaker pair I've picked up. Pretty sure these were from the "white van scam" speaker days, which gives them an interesting background. The person I bought them from says he got them from his neighbor when they moved, and his neighbor told him they were made in Denmark. The only company I know from Denmark is Jamo and to be honest, they look very similar in design to a pair of smaller vintage Jamo's I sold recently. I don't think it would be a stretch to consider they may have built them for someone else under a branded label, or maybe offloaded some B stock, or designs that weren't ready for showtime, and sold them through the shady street dealers for cash flow, but I really don't know yet. I'll need to do some research and review them in their stock form. I played them for several days and actually thought they sounded pretty decent and from the outside they look good too. The build quality and sound quality seems on par with that level of speaker though... Similar to the mass market competitors of that era. With those I was considering just doing very minimal customization, including braces, sound deadener, insulation if they need it, and better crossover parts, but leaving the drivers stock. Thanks for subscribing!

Hi Joshua, thanks for watching, and the observational comments as well as the results you've had! I really appreciate it. If you've got a few free minutes check out the tail end of a more recent video on this project. In particular the last chapter, I think it's called wrap up. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o9Rmf9KilsfQqXk.html In that video what I've done is employed Zobel Networks in an attempt to flatten and harmonize the output. After watching, let me know what you think.

Thanks Jim! Okay... Thanks for confirming, that currently with the 2nd order Laspada, my midrange polarity reversal was technically the "correct" thing to do in this project. It seems likely because I'm listening to it and I think it's better like this .. more like I'm "in" the music, instead of it coming "at me", as I mentioned in another comment. There also seems to be more floaty with details in the music wrapping around me and stereo separation or studio mixed channel shifts are much more focused, while still making it literally sound like I've got a center channel hooked up and playing 3.0 Dolby. So far, so good... Now I've got to figure out the easiest way to get that 200-400 Hz suck-out fixed. I was also thinking of lowering the series resistance for the tweeter, (or just removing it altogether), and then Zobels perhaps. Yup I know, XSIM... Don't rush me, I'm waiting until the last minute lol ;-)

Thank you for watching, the comment and the information. What is your opinion on reversing the polarity in a 3 way second order crossover network? To be honest, I have researched this phase phenomenon, but still don't quite grasp it. The explanations I've read that make the most sense to me, has something to do with each transducer getting "out of phase" 45 degrees per octave of roll off... if I recall correctly. What those phase shifts do exactly to our perception of the sound, I've got no idea. That being said, and looping back around to your comment the brain picks up on highs and bass more than mid-range, which sells more speakers, but they would be tiring to listen to, and that it matters most at the listening position, I couldn't say whether that's theoretically correct, but I've noticed that measuring my other projects at a given listening position seems to affect the bass and mid-bass more than anything else. I've ended up with almost identical 400 Hz+ sweeps from a bunch of different mic distances and angles, but I've seen the bass response change dramatically. I'm thinking that could be due to nulls or cancellations of various bass frequencies as they bounce around and knock into one another. For example, I've seen room response drops in various bass regions by +10 Db. In room response isn't the greatest for measuring what the Loudspeakers are doing, but it's good for setting up speaker and listening positions, while providing a fairly consistent method of seeing what the Mid-Bass, mid-range and treble are doing frequency-wise. Better than nothing for tuning anyway... "Close enough" lol. From my personal experience with flipping the polarity of the midrange drivers in 2nd order 3 ways, it drops the SPL in the Mid-Range enough to hear, and as far as music playback it seems like it makes it sound.... Hmmm.... More "transparent" if that's a good word for it. Sort of like the difference between a lamp with and without a lamp shade. My analogy in this instance, (as I write this response I'm listening to the pair with reversed polarity), would apply to the reversed polarity being the lampshade version. Still nice and bright, but it doesn't make you squint when you look towards it, and it's not as obvious where the light is coming from. In this case with the lamps, that's caused by diffusing the light source... Certainly not the same way speakers work, but sort of the same effect on the ears. Currently with the midrange polarity revered, it sounds like there's a wider soundstage and it's like I'm "in" the sound vs the sound coming "at me", yet the stereo separation and imaging is way more obvious and surprisingly, I'm listening to volume levels that are completely comfortable with this configuration, but with the Midranges hooked up normally, I'd be turning it down. Sort of like some cars feel like they're moving 40 mph when they're actually going 70 mph vs other cars feel like they're doing 100 when going 70... At which point you back off the gas. Kind of the same deal. All that being said, I truly don't know if that transformation in audio perception from the reversed polarity means they're working like they should, or not. I admit, not sure if it's right or wrong, and I don't have the equipment or knowledge to measure that aspect, but... BUT... The measuring equipment that holds up my eyeglasses seems to like the sound of the reversed polarity of the midranges version better. Again thanks so much for contributing to the comments and watching the video. I think the next one will be putting a lower resistance on the 4 ohm tweeters, (or just try them straight without a resistor), get the upper treble to match SPL better and see how that goes. Now that I'm so close to the project being done, I'm anxious to get them dialed in. I may end up with Zobel networks on these also. I've got to fix that nasty suck-out between 200-400 Hz though too. My last big 3 way I was able to cheat and high pass the Mid-Range at 100-200 Hz, which filled in that area nicely, but that was using full range pro drivers. I don't think the dome midrange would operate effectively that low without self-destructing. Thanks again for watching!

I have been trying to get him on the Xsim band wagon. its been an uphill battle.

Hi Emmett and thanks for watching, as well as your comments and suggestions. I would've probably tried attenuating the Mid-range a little, and I think that's how I've got my other big 3 way 2nd order hooked up in addition to having reversed polarity and Zobel networks. The biggest difference with that setup though, was that I also cheated the crossover and added cap value to pass the Mid-range at 100-200 Hz, which filled in a Mid-Bass suck-out like I've got on this build, HOWEVER, that DIY speaker project Jensen CS315, employed a Dayton full range pro driver in a sealed chamber for the Mid-Range. I don't think I can do that with the Dayton dome midranges without destroying them. Jim is right and I need to get XSIM or similar to help eliminate trial and error. I've just been using whichever online calculators seem reliable, Unfortunately I don't have the specs on the Laspada crossovers, or the component values, but I've got the factory specs for the speakers to work with at least. I'm curious, what's your software show for this combo? I wonder if your other results you put it in another comment, were maybe from a previous version of this build with Goldwood mids and/or Peerless or Dayton Classic tweeters? Those changes came about in the past several videos as I kept making blunders and trying to salvage the project. So currently, it's the Dayton Designer 12" woofer in the ideal spec'd 2.0 cabinet and Fb tuned around 39 Hz. The Dayton Reference Fabric Mid-Range and the Dayton reference fabric tweeter. What if I took the 4 ohm series resistors out of the tweeter circuit? I'm wondering if that would pick up the high end, but not sure how it would affect the crossover points or what sort of load it would present to the amp. I'm assuming it would drop out down to a 4 ohm nominal load, but not for sure if the NAD T757v2 could power them without going into protect mode. NAD tech support told me the receiver would handle 4 ohm loads, but it shows 8 ohm recommended in the manual. Hey thanks again for participating!

@@wattspeakers I amusing your current driver set up when modelling the crossover, impedance would be a non issue, however it is the tweeter that has inverted polarity. How familiar are you with cross-over schematics/assembly?