+Daniel Clegg Thanks for the kind words man. And for the continued support. I am just going nuts in the basement as usual. LOL

+Beyond Aquatic Design Thanks dude! We all know that I am not complaining. Hey Dave, yeah? Can we send you a bunch of new LED technology? Uh, can I borrow some toilet paper.... LOL I guess studies are saying that UV-A really helps to induce anthocyanin, and that previous UV LEDs didn't last very long and were pretty much worthless, so I guess one of the big improvements with this fixture is the use of long lasting UV-A LEDs. Thanks for the kind words man. I hope your tank is doing well.

+Agr414 These lights are impressive, first LED that has impressed me because they actually have really good color rendering. Most LEDs have horrible color, or the disco look. Yeah the visor is pretty sweet.

+Brian's Fish Tanks Thanks B! Are you still uploading concert videos! LOL I watched a bit of the last one.

+TWK Aquascaping Dude, after all the research I have done I would seriously consider it. Though, I guess there is a discrepancy with the ramp down and the moonlight, like I talked about in the video. My contact already told me that they are working on fixing this issue and are aware... So, maybe before you purchase just call them up and make sure that the issue has been fixed for the model you are going to order. Considering I am the tester I will be stuck with the bug, but all it really means is I have my moonlight come on one minute earlier than I previously thought, which is a very minor problem in my opinion. My Blyxa at the bottom of my tank is already turning bright red, and I am actually running the lights at 50% power, so I am using the same wattage that I was with the Finnex RayII and the Ecoxotic E-series combo, which both have horrible color rendering. Plus, I was using the 110 degree lenses at 24" above the substrate. So, my point is that the only way the Blyxa is turning red so fast is because of the advanced UV-A LEDs, which UV-A light has been shown to induce anthocyanin pigments in plants. It encourages them to put on their sun screen so-to-speak. They used to be inefficient and wouldn't last long, but not the UV-A LEDs are advanced enough to incorporate into LED fixtures, which just adds even more wavelengths of light for the plants to utilize. Just today I decided to install the 80 degree lenses to maximize my efficiency, and already my plants are pearling like crazy. I still have the fixture at 50% power and at 24" from the substrate. And on top of all of this everything is built right into the fixture, you get amazing shimmer from single-point source lighting, and the color rendering is insane! A lot of reef hobbyists like the color rendering of the Halo more than the Kessil, and the same will eventually be said about the freshwater model. They are calling this fixture the Kessil Killer! LOL

+Phil Grady Yeah, it has a small bug with the voltage and programming, but they are already trying to fix it. I am the tester, so I will be stuck with the bugged fixture, but hey, I am not complaining. I am glad they reached out to me. So far so good.

+MrHoney2U dude! This light is killer man. It has amazing color rendering. Best LED around when considering the technology and price.

+Barefoots Child Trust me when I say you won't regret it. It is probably the best LED currently when considering cost, technology, and color rendering. I have the 80 degree lenses installed, and run the lights at only 50%. They are also a bit higher than 24" from the substrate. At 50% power it is the same energy consumption of my prior setup, which was one Finnex Ray II, and an Ecoxotic E-series. Both of those lights have horrible color rendering, and come no where near the quality of this light. And I was using way more energy with my T5HOs, of course. I could go on, but if you already read all the comments you know I personally love this light. But just like HDTVs it will be obsolete in a few years now that we are entering the LED age.

Lol You are so right about the oncoming obsolescence. Just to let know Dave, you have already saved myself a buttload of money. In fact so much that I will be able to purchase the premium Halo lighting unit and the basic unit if need. Questione': Since I am setting up a 75 gal. tank (48x18x21), with low to medium light requirement will the middle support brace dictact that I purchase two light units, or will one unit be enough in your opinion?

How? I don't even do DIY videos! You will want two no matter what. That tank is too long for just one. Positioned correctly the light will probably stop at the brace when considering the spread of the single-point light source.

+ADU Aquascaping LOL How you say. Well, you might not have made any DIY videos, but by taking your advice of doing research/homework prior to setup definitely has saved myself money, I have learned a great deal about the planted tank hobby: equipment, livestock, successfully growing aquatic plants, as well as the psychological aspects/benefits of aquascaping that is properly done, as to be well received by the mind's eye. I can't remember the author's name, but only what she had said..."Concentrate on growing plants and not fish". Yes, I am well aware of fish being part of the aquatic game, but for many of us it is secondary...and that is exactly why we have multiple tanks isn't? lol Your comment about just getting over it, when it comes to the cost of the hobby is spot on mate. Tanks mon, and party on dude.

+emadonn mc Thanks for watching. Glad you like the scape. Right now I am adding more red coloration to the background, so I am going to do yet another variation of this scape before I take it down. Peace

+BM's Aquatics BM in the house! Thanks for watching man. Long time no hear. How are the Calvus doing? Are they any bigger? LOL

+ADU Aquascaping Everything is good my friend. The Calvus are huge and the Cyps are breeding

+BM's Aquatics Right on man, Calvus and Cyps are a good combo for balance in the tank.

+colinbarsby Indeed, these are the first to really impress me, most have horrible color rendering. I really love these lights. I can adjust to whatever temp or intensity I like. At night I can really get some cool moods out of the fixtures.

ADU Aquascaping LEDs are on the Xmas list.

+Laura Wrenn You would really only need one. I was using one just fine over this tank. Except in the back left corner I was getting shading because I have plants that are so high up, because of the shape of my scape. So, some plants were shading the ones in the back, but it was actually working out quite well. I was just being picky, and they offered to send me another one, and we know I wasn't complaining. With more standard scaped tanks one fixture will work just fine for a 36" long tank. You could run it lower down (closer to the top of the water level. The mounting arms are adjustable) with the 110 degree lenses, and run it at full power, or even half power, but then the lumens may not be high enough and you may want it to be brighter. And you would get enough spread and definitely enough PAR. I am running each fixture at only half power, which is another great feature. You can decide how much light you need depending on how you run your scape. And while doing water changes I can dim the lights down as to not dry out the plants. I have done a lot of research, and if anyone gripes about it or says it isn't efficient, or this or that, just know they are a fanboy for another company.... and really haven't researched this light enough, because if they had... they wouldn't be saying that. This is by far the best LED I have used to date. They are going to continue advancing, but that is life. No different than HD TVs. And I have sold myself. I have no prior stipulations with the company. I personally love this light.

+Tom Hughes (Tom Hughes Cichlids) Thanks for watching.

+Laura Wrenn Well the deluxe model has the controller built in, but if you have an Apex you could save money by plugging it into the Apex power bar, but I am not sure if the Apex software will actually induce weather patterns. It may just behave similarly to the controller that the deluxe model has built in. I will have to ask my contact. They acted like you could get more versatility out of the fixture by using a 3rd party controller, but am not sure how much, or what. Either way, don't you just plug it into the Apex power bar and then the router connects to the internet and then that controls the power bar?

Radion will probably be technically better components and quality. But that being said I have had my Halos for around 18 months with no issues at all. The color rendering is also very popular among hobbyists. The Radion is definitely a nice fixture. I Know you can hook the Halos up to 3rd party controllers, but am not sure which fixture has more versatility when connected to the controller. Never used the setup. May have to ask around on plantedtank.net to see if anyone knows...

Thanks for the response. I haven't been able to find a graph for the Halo lights anywhere which is frustrating. I would love to compare it to the New Radion LED. I have tried posting on the forum and responses are anemic. Maybe I am asking the questions incorrectly or the wrong questions. At this point I have been in the aquarium hobby for 35 years. The last 15 have been in SPS reef tanks. The funny thing is that I have never done a planted before. At least not a full aquascape anyway. It seems people want to learn from me not the other way around. However, everyone has something to share, and we can learn from everyone. *shrug* Thanks again... Cheers, Greg

+Filip HOBL Thanks for watching.

+Uzair Lodhi Thanks for watching. Glad you like it.

+thepokekid01 Really impressed with the color rendering and features so far. Has great color.

+Laura Wrenn I will keep this in mind. currently I am out of stock, but may get some soon. Just busy with school.

+jeremiemcd No, they didn't melt, but because of fluctuating conditions I did get a small amount of differing kinds of algae for the first couple weeks. Thanks man, just a matter of opinion I guess. I am always trying to do different kinds of scapes, but most people seem to like this one more than others... But when considering the slow growth of java fern and trying to balance it under high-tech conditions, getting it to become compact etc... One could argue that the last scape was harder to balance and maintain. Just something a lot of people may never consider when viewing a tank. Either way, thanks for the support man. I am enjoying this one more too.

+ADU Aquascaping I think your old look,looked incredible, it's amazing to see how different plants can change the layout, it all depends on the scaper, and what kind of look there going for. So I agree with you its all a opinion on the viewer, as long as your happy that's what matters, my favorite thing about watching vids for me is seeing how different plants look in different scapes, it's learning for me without all the hard work, it's always a pleasure to watch your vids, not only are they educational they are inspirational, thank you for your time, because our time is precious, and keep up with the great work :-)

+AQUADESIGN by aquamaniac Hahaha! Oh dang, I may be forgetting how loud they are. I sold mine a while back. I wish I still had it to play BF4. Witcher 3 looks awesome too. They aren't too loud, but some people may get the wrong idea. TMS are great, and definitely better than other models out there. They reached out to me and sent me all of this equipment, so we know I am not complaining. I am grateful for their generosity. I guess studies are saying that UV-A really helps to induce anthocyanin, and that previous UV LEDs didn't last very long and were pretty much worthless, so I guess one of the big improvements with this fixture is the use of long lasting UV-A LEDs. Thanks for the kind words man. I hope your tank is doing well.

+Bret Santucci Yeah right in the middle seems to be the best color rendering. I went back to the 110 and 70-75% of full power. With the 80 degrees I got too much dust algae and in order to have high enough lumens it just wasn't working out. That is one thing I have noticed about this fixture, it doesn't have the highest lumens, so I have to run the light pretty high in order for the tank to look attractive, at least for how I like it to look. So, the 110s at 70% is bright enough and doesn't cause tons of algae. Right now I am growing super slow growing Riccardia, Fissidens and that is about it, and a few clumps of Monte Carlo, Micro sword, and Java moss. I am running the lights at 70-75% power and not experiencing too many issues. My new scape still isn't fully balanced and mature, but it is actually doing quite well considering I am running at those levels, and only minimally dosing to the water column while growing super slow growing mosses and liverworts. I love these lights!! Thanks for watching.

+Bret Santucci I also placed them higher than the notches go, the screws seem to hold up the fixture with no problem even if they aren't in the holes. The Actual LED matrix is about 25" above the substrate.

+ADU Aquascaping thanks for the reply. I'm sticking with the 110 lenses too. I have the intensity roughly the same but the fixture I have on the last screw. Too scared to not have it connected like you haha my daughter would hit the tank with my luck and it would all be downhill from there. I've noticed some seriously nice color in my Ludwigia Glandulosa that I did not previously get from BMLs. I unfortunately got a bum slave unit. The fan keeps stopping and it over heats. I have a replacement from Amazon arriving today though. I don't know why people complain about aesthetics. I think these look pretty sweet over the tank. Way nicer than light bars IMO.

+Bret Santucci dang, well that comes with the territory of new technology. Hoping the next one works for you. Yeah, I really like them and they seem to do a great job. I am totally satisfied with mine. Good to hear that you like them so far.

+ADU Aquascaping Hey I wanted to check in with you since it's been a while. Did you end up using the 80 or 110 optics? I'm still on 110, but was wondering/thinking about trying the 80 for more direct light. Are you still running about 75%? Also, what's your total height from substrate? Thanks for all the info in advance!

+ADU AQUASCAPING Dave, Sorry, I stated the size backwards. Kessil is M5 in size. Halo is M4. Thanks

+Laura Wrenn I agree, they are all way over priced. Kessil's new A- type mounting arm is basically a carbon copy of AquaticLife's and they want $65.00 for it! and the Halo is $60.00! What the heck!!! You may be able to purchase the Halo screw separately, or find the same size machine screw at your local hardware store and feed it through, or fasten it to the Kessil mount. And maybe use a wing-nut if the hole on the mounting arm is too big. I haven't seen the Kessil mounting arm so I am just guessing.

+Ethan Katz how are these working on your 75g tank? i've been thinking about getting 2 of them for my 75g but was worried 2 would not give me the high par levels at the substrate that im wanting.

+morris addison I literally just mounted and turned them on today! I love them so far. I'll update you in a few months once I get to planting and stocking...

+Ethan Katz cool thanks

+morris addison They give off tons of PAR. Tons! And the color rendering is the best part about them. I love how natural the tank looks compared to other fixtures.

+Ethan Katz I am not complaining. I love mine.

+ADU Aquascaping on point with the comment LOL.

haha

true

I would never in my life complain about the price in this hobby. Coz there is always a DIY or a dead cheap method of doing everything. Giving every one in every budget range a chance to have a go at it. Believe me, I've done a complete DIY planted aquarium which is nano sized 1.5x1.5feet. At a cost of 100 dollars total including plants, substrate etc. Found an awesome guy near here in India that sells a monte carlo 2 square inch for one dollar at awesome quality.

And peace!

Yes! I have had them for over 2 years with absolutely no issues! They are really good in my experience. I hope yours works just as well.

I have just received my Halo :D super fast shipping and quick response from the sales representative guy. The color rendering is amazing. Can not wait to see my plants thrive under it. I saw some complaints about the fan noise on other aquascape websites but it seems not an issue to me though. It is not that loud, my Alienware laptop is louder :))) the noise can not even compete to laptop fan (just 20-30% laptop fan).

Huy Nguyen yeah it isn't too loud. Any fixture with a fan will have some noise. Mine are still working like they did the day I got them. Glad it came already.

Mainly Neon tetras, bumblebee gobies, white cloud minnow, SAEs, amano shrimp.

+Brandon C. Ah, I see said the blind man. Good to know man. So when I set it a minute early I am essentially not allowing it to go from 3-0v it just switches to moonlight and probably stays at 3v?

if they are on the same channel, yes. essentially what happened was the programmers didn't communicate with the analog design guys. You should look into a DIY led setup. Built one myself and my tank is just exploding with growth.

+Brandon C. I had one all planned out running at 1000ma with Cree-XT-Es, dimmable driver etc... the whole nine yards through ledgroupbuy. But that being said it was still going to be $330.00 and I would have probably needed two of the 40 breeder. At least how I was going to design it and how much light I wanted etc... For how I run my tanks and for the amount of lumens that I like I have found no matter the brand, make or model of LED fixture I always need two fixtures, whether they are bar style or single-point source. Some guy was saying I would only need one BML XB and with 90 degree angles that just isn't true. I can't even get enough spread with fixtures that have 120 degree naked spread. No need to do DIY now. I could have made a super awesome video, gotten tons of views etc... But even with the bug this fixture has it is still superior in my opinion with all of the built in programming, capabilities, advanced new UV-A LEDs etc... I have been comparing lights and specs, and this fixture really is a threat to DIY, BML, Kessil and others. Some guys are saying power consumption to PAR output is poor, but that really isn't true at all. And my plants are definitely not struggling. With the 80 degree lenses at 12" above the substrate you get 500 PAR with one fixture. As well I am only running my lights at 50% so I am using the exact same wattage as I was using with one Finnex RayII and the Ecoxotic E-Series, which did the job, but truly had horrible color rendering. This light has insane color rendering and already my blyxa at the bottom of the tank is getting super red. Considering I am running at the same power output as before and currently using the 110 degree angles (at 24" above the substrate) it is more than likely from the UV-A LEDs, which hundreds of scientific studies show to induce anthocyanin pigments. They weren't used before because they used to not last as long and were basically worthless, but now the UV-A LEDs are advanced enough to put in the fixture. Peace, and thanks for watching. and because I am the tester I will probably be stuck with the bugged fixture, but I am sure they can fix that problem just like any other product out there. Like Battlefield 4 for example. LOL

Ill have to check out UV-A's to add to my fixture, but thats the beauty of the DIY lights, I can take it apart and add more leds at anytime. As for the two fixtures with the leds I think you would only need more leds, I run 36 1:1:1 cool, neutral, warms with the fixture 2 feet above the substrate, and my blyxa is curly and red orange without being rooted. Yes the initial cost is pretty high, but I have already paid it off 3 times in store credit with plant trade ins. Oh and you can adjust the spread by changing the optics fairly easily. As for the on the market fixtures I too have been disappointed by their output, but after a little investigation using some tools from school I found my BML XB dutch doesn't quite output 1 A as well as the internal leds are philips and not crees. For the controller it is true that the market made products have decent controllers, but I am currently working on one myself using a raspberry pi. Thats a little technical for a lot of people but in the end its much more rewarding, and a more permanent solution. I do plan to make a video when I swap out some leds, but Im not exactly sure how far into the future that will be. There are quite a bit of other edits I'd like to make as well. Oh and for the DIY fixture I used a calculator I dug up in some old forums to get 100 umol at the substrate.

+Brandon C. I agree, I liked the idea of being able to swap out LEDs, that is one reason I wanted to do it. I could adjust it however I wanted... This fixture is modular and has quick disconnect fittings, so they tell me I can fix it in field or adjust things, but I am not sure about the matrix itself. probably not. I would have to buy a third party matrix like the one on ledgroupbuy.com or something. I am not a tech savvy as you, and not an electrical. Is it a processor like the arduino? I see guys on the web doing some cool DIY stuff and programming it on their computer, and I wish I could do it, but I guess it's not my passion. Is it the Excel spreadsheet made by "Wet" and "Hoppy" ? That is the PAR calculator I used. I guess "Wet" is some master physicist or something. Wet, Mr. Green, and Hoppy seem to be the engineering guys on the forums that go nuts about lighting. LOL

+Dennis Wong BML 36" fixture at 12" from the substrate( using the Nature fixture, which gives the highest PAR readings) shows 220 PAR with 75 degree angles. Using 48 watts. Halo using (80 degree lenses) at 12" while consuming 85 watts, 5 watts to the fan, and a few more go to the driver, so the LEDs are consuming less than 80 watts themselves gives off 500 PAR. And I would definitely need more than one BML fixture over a 40 breeder especially with 90 degree lenses even if it is at 24", because the lumens will not be sufficient for how I run my tanks. To make a comparison compare it to the new Dutch model with the dimming and color rendering capabilities, which is $330.00, plus the $109.00 controller, plus the $25.00 hanging kit. And the color rendering is superior to the disco look of BML and other poor color rendering models, such as Finnex and Ecoxotic. And they don't need a fan because they drive theirs at 350ma, but just because it has a fan doesn't mean inefficiency, it means they are driven probably at 750ma or 1000ma. I already talked to engineering guys about fans, and it doesn't mean it's a shitty fixture. Orphek uses them, Radion, and other super high end companies. They use them for a couple different reasons. I can get the exact science behind why if you want. For how I run my tanks and for the amount of lumens that I like I have found no matter the brand, make or model of LED fixture I always need two fixtures, whether they are bar style or single-point source. That is the nature of the 40 breeder tank. I can't even get enough spread with fixtures that have 120 degree naked spread! No need to do a DIY fixture now. I could have made a super awesome video, gotten tons of views etc... But even with the bug this fixture has it is still superior in my opinion with all of the built in programming, capabilities, advanced new UV-A LEDs etc... I have been comparing lights and specs, and this fixture really is a threat to DIY, BML, Kessil and others. As well I am only running my lights at 50%! So, I am using the exact same wattage as I was using with one Finnex RayII and the Ecoxotic E-Series, which did the job, but truly had horrible color rendering. This light has insane color rendering and already my blyxa at the bottom of the tank is getting super red. Considering I am running at the same power output as before and currently using the 110 degree angles (at 24" above the substrate) it is more than likely from the UV-A LEDs, which hundreds of scientific studies show to induce anthocyanin pigments. They weren't used before because they used to not last as long and were basically worthless, but now the UV-A LEDs are advanced enough to put in the fixture. I might as well pop in the 80 degree lenses and really maximize my efficiency. Peace, and thanks for watching. And on top of all of this BML didn't treat me well, and never got back to me, so I am turned off towards their company. This light simply kicks ass, and I will be stuck with the bugged fixture because I am the tester, but I am sure it isn't anything the company cannot fix. Thanks for watching man. I personally love this light and have no stipulations with this company, just speaking my two cents. Peace!

+ADU Aquascaping 500 PAR isn't an accurate measure, giving the conical drop off nature of point sources. (in this case quite steeply). A better comparison is looking at PAR tables under 24inches spread - in which case, it does produce a little more light than a BML, but at much more power draw. And bearing in mind the BML runs the length of the tank, while the light will be short. The BMLs doesn't give a disco look in water actually, though it does so in air... and one fixture is definitely enough to grow anything on a 40b. This cycle I'm using a single bar on each ADA 90p; hanging it higher for more spread, so far it's more than enough, though slower than compared to when using more light. Using two point sources along the same middle line doesn't give an improvement in spread compared to a single bar; only a distributed array will, it still has the drop off at the corners, and cannot light behind hardscapes that block the line of sight from the middle line. (same problems as single light bar). Personally I still dislike fans in a fixture - from dust collection angle, and potential weak point. Same as PCs, as few moving parts the better. But granted this is very common on many fixtures. The color choices and rendering part are the strong points here

That's nice in theory, but I always need two fixtures over a 40 breeder especially one with 90 degree lenses. I can't even get enough spread with 120 degree angles! I had Ray IIs at 24" above and always found I needed two fixtures. Okay well at 24" it isn't really much of a difference. Their Dutch model with 75 degree gives off 85 PAR, the Halo with 80 degree gives off 155. A bar LED is only getting that PAR on a fine line at the center across the tank. The question is does that area of the line possess more total radiation than the area of the circle in the middle of the single-point? Only doing a test can show which one is actually giving more PAR for the surface area it possesses. My bar leds cannot light behind high hardscapes either, that is why I had, and always have to buy two fixtures. At 24". 48 watts giving 80-85 PAR with 75 degree angles. if I run mine at half power around 42.5 watts I will be getting around 77.5-80 PAR at 24". Roughly when considering the distance, power, and output relationships. It really isn't much of a difference man. And when you consider it is modular so I can replace parts all on my own, built in 5 point light control, timer, advanced UV-A leds etc... It is a pretty nice light for only $350.00. The BML advanced Dutch is $330.00 plus $109.00 for the controller, and $25.00 for the hanging kit if you want to hang at 24", and you would have to buy two of everything, minus the controller, which can probably control two fixtures, and if it can't that is even more of a reason to buy this light IMO. Point source may create more shadow, but that is also what people love about them, and the color rendering is insane. I have obviously sold myself on this light. LOL

+ADU Aquascaping Haa I'm sure it'll do fine. I'm still missing the spread of T-5s though, but its hard to get the best of all worlds

+Ruben They are good, but still made in China! Ouch I said it.

+ADU Aquascaping the power is made in China, but fixture is made in Taiwan

chenlinhui2007 It was just a joke. :) I know. These are great fixtures. I love both of mine.

+ADU Aquascaping Hi Dave, could you please let me know what is the tank size?

k9feces oh yeah! this light is amazing! I love mine.

+MrHoney2U Yeah, a Aquatop, or maybe a GLA inline CO2 diffuser. They are really the same thing.

AquariumGrownPlants yes you do to get full coverage

+Jerry Jobe I think I tried to do an interview with Art, but couldn't get my mic working. I am just so busy with Calculus, and Bio that I rarely have time to do any more than upload a video here and there. I will look into my mic etc... I have to go through Skype correct? I will look into getting my mic working. I don't think I ever got the codecs in my digital preamps to sync up with Skype. Crazy gear, but it's because I have guitar rig equipment etc...

+Kevin Bretscher K, I will do that video next. I will research it, and use my own experiences. Thanks for watching.

+DMAN D 40 gallon breeder- $60.00. API Filstar XP-Medium canister- $109.00. Hydor Koralia wavemaker nano 425GPH- $25.00. Jager Eheim 125w heater- $25.00. Controsoil Aquasoil- $90.00. ADA Sand- $30.00. Manzanita driftwood- $150.00. Entire CO2 setup- $270.00. Rocks- are Free. Plants roughly- $80-$90.00. The fish- over a $100.00. Magfloat small algae scraper- $8.00. Then needed necessities- Fertilizers- roughly $60.00. Surge protector- around $17.00 for a nice one. The lighting is $770.00 dollars worth of equipment, which I am grateful that they reached out to me, but still need to include it. Fishfood- $20.00 worth. Test kits- $20.00 worth. I can now get Manzanita driftwood for free- I found a spot in a canyon where it grows. My buddy charged me too much for the wood. Then you would have to get a stand, mine was free, but that would probably be another couple hundred dollars, unless you build it. Hobbies are expensive, but this one compared to the other three hobbies I mentioned is still pretty mild. I used to spend way more on guitars and guitar equipment- my old guitar amplifier I had was over $1400 just for the amp, then you have the guitar and all of the audio equipment and software programs you have to buy for your computer, and currently I spend quite a bit on my camera gear, and the video side of things. Considering that I am on YT I am not only investing in my tank, but investing in camera gear and equipment. Cheap lenses are $400.00 a piece, my tripod was close to $300.00, and my camera was over $800.00. I am still pretty poor, but manage to save my money for things I want. Thanks for watching.

Thank you :) I guess you are right I have spent more on my laptop than my tank you are so lucky you found a spot for driftwood as its so expensive

+DMAN D I need to get more and try and sell some for cheap to everyone, just so busy right now with school.

ADU Aquascaping That would be cool. What are you studying ?

Environmental science. Going nuts with calculus right now. LOL

+Jake Tracy I was hoping you would contact me. I had to shut down my email and Facebook, they were both being hacked. I lost all emails from our conversations. I know we have been talking about this for three months now, but even that amount of time wasn't enough for me to get everything together. I should have been preparing for the past year, or at least 6 months. I should have plugged it months ago, I am grateful for the opportunity and idea, but it would be better to aim for next year. I wasn't really aware of the process or the convention. Thad being said, I also have a Bio and Calculus test that week that I need to study for and take that weekend. I just have no time, and would have liked to prepare more for this, seasoned plugging, website, plan etc... I honestly needed more time than three months notice. Thanks for the idea, and am making plans to shoot for next year.

+ADU Aquascaping Is there some other way I can contact you in a faster manner I have an alternative plan to purpose. Email me jaketracy42@gmail.com

+DMAN D Just borrow money and become more poor. J/K. I just got lucky, and am grateful that they reached out to me.

ADU Aquascaping you really are man

I have three now!

+k9feces You would really only need one. I was using one just fine over this tank. Except in the back left corner I was getting shading because I have plants that are so high up, because of the shape of my scape. So, some plants were shading the ones in the back, but it was actually working out quite well. I was just being picky, and they offered to send me another one, and we know I wasn't complaining. With more standard scaped tanks one fixture will work just fine for a 36" long tank. You could run it lower down (closer to the top of the water level. The mounting arms are adjustable) with the 110 degree lenses, and run it at full power, or even half power, but then the lumens may not be high enough and you may want it to be brighter. And you would get enough spread and definitely enough PAR. I am running each fixture at only half power, which is another great feature. You can decide how much light you need depending on how you run your scape. And while doing water changes I can dim the lights down as to not dry out the plants. I have done a lot of research, and if anyone gripes about it or says it isn't efficient, or this or that, just know they are a fanboy for another company.... and really haven't researched this light enough, because if they had... they wouldn't be saying that. This is by far the best LED I have used to date. They are going to continue advancing, but that is life. No different than HD TVs. And I have sold myself. I have no prior stipulations with the company. I personally love this light.

+AngusAndBubba haha, get saving. For most 40 breeder scapes or smaller cube tanks you will only need one fixture. I could run this tank with one, but I just have plants so high up because of the shape of my scape that I was getting some shading in the back left corner. Just wait for LEDs to go down in price if need be.

+islanddave1 Yeah at first I thought they were weird, but functionality over form in this case. The color rendering is better than Kessil, and most any other LED right now on the market. Superb color rendering in my opinion, and they do have UV-A LEDS, which are shown to induce Anthocyanin pigments in the plants. More so than UV-B or royal blue. And less expensive than all other high-end models that I have seen... Thanks for watching.

+ADU Aquascaping You are absolutely correct! I have some Kessil a360 we's and they are a great light .......but not if you want to have red plants! The Tuna Sun led matrix has very little red spectra.How many of these halo units would I need to cover a 60"L x 36"W x 27"H tank requiring med high to high light?Thanks