Saya sangat senang noton youTube anda... Saya hanya pengumpul barang bekas rc sudikah anda memberikan yang tak berharga, agar saya dapat melepas hobi saya, karna saya tak seberuntung anda tapi saya nerusaha 🤗🤗🤗

Wish there was a pre-built option available 😭

@@ryanhickey9984 Aliexpress seems to have a pre-built version. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000212209722.html

You only have the name of the car in the thumbnail...

How to buy

360 degrees

Ow yeshhh

@@alexanderthegreatish4079 90

😂😂 isn't that what you want

Johnson Nash some people love cheap shots

Its Mort from family guy and a samurai

Simon Monto he sounds nothing like mort dude

I can’t disagree with the comment of “the greatest accent”.👌

One moment he sounds like a Indian next second he sounds Japanese .

That is a paid voice over after for the chinese. This is intellectual property theft.

Vapletrichs Gne how?

@@BlvlWmpower what the hell are you even saying

Agreed. I think it took me less time to set up HGD1 and impressed it handles well as 90mm. Still think drz is smoother once you get it set up correctly... But it does take more fiddling to set up. Im gonna have a look at xrx next. Can't face super skeeter yet. Building front bulkhead on Drz nearly broke my sanity. 😂

Looking at the Super Skeeter price and I could buy a whole XRX DPA... I think I'd go with XRX. DRZ is good as long as you don't go beyond what steering angle can work effectively. It's really smooth and I like that about it. I'll continue to tune HGD1 a bit more to see how much can I get out of it.

@@BeaversHobby Maybe will try getting the XRX DPA in the future, really like how the steering pivot is very close to the wheel.

@@GarageMiniRCUK Haha luckily hadn't had much trouble with the front assembly. Just missing some parts and waiting for them to arrive. Hopefully can get it to handle better than my HGD1. Tuning and drifting RWD drift cars is too addictive xD

This is the easiest 1/28 RWD to build right now. It's a bit fiddly but still not driving people insane like Atomic DRZ.

Normally the motor won't come with a gear but the car will. It'll be a plastic gear and that's perfectly fine. I prefer plastic to metal because it's easier to remove. And if the metal gear doesn't have good quality it will last the same as plastic.

Absolutely. I'm looking at how to import that sexy FD RE Amemiya. If that doesn't happen then I'll have to settle with something like M5 I can find locally. Or a Trabant... that would be quite funny.

GLD is much easier to drift and very pleasant to build. However the parts quality can be a bit ropy as I was unlucky enough to get every known defects on my car. However it's undeniably a great car with pinpoint accuracy handling. Here's my first test drive with broken parts. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bb6Yg5mKnKmsgqc.html I'm still editing the fix video and will have to film some driving as well to complete it. And yes, the Hackslider V2 is the same as this gyro. Now there's V3 with EPA setting so get that one instead. Mine is with AFRC badge. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p9GjpZpezbmpYH0.html I think YeahRacing will have the update as well.

@@BeaversHobby Thanks for explaining this further and EPA settings.

Yes, I believe it's possible. I'll be working on that after I finish reviewing Mini-Q Q2 refresh.

Attaching the tie rods to a lower point will decrease the steering angle and this car needs all of that.

Yes, it does. Radiolink has all the basic features just like an expensive one. It just doesn't have graphic interface when doing crawler mixing.

Yes, even the chassis alone costs as much if not more than 1/10 RWD. I have no idea why 1/28 RWD are this expensive either.

Unfortunately I don't know which manufacture made this car. However it's based on Mini-Q Q5OP so all the consumable parts are shared with Mini-Q and Mini-Z AWD. The parts you can't find are front bulkhead, servo mount, rear gear holder plate, side clip mounts and chassis plates which are almost impossible to break because they made of aluminium and carbon fibre. Unless you put 10500KV motor in and crash it into a wall at full speed that is... The things that can break like CVD, wheels, tyres, diff, spur gear are the same as Mini-Z AWD. All other parts are the same as Mini-Q. I'm sure this car will last, just like all Mini-Q does.

Brush VS brushless depends on the kit you get. If it's HGD1 then brushed is a safer choice because generally brushless ESC that comes with this kit is not that good. Anyway, getting the brushless and change the ESC later on is also a good option. It depends on whether you want to spend a bit more for a better ESC or not. If you plan to keep it as it is, brushed. If you are willing to change the ESC later, brushless and it'll be better in the long run too. For other cars or if you can choose the ESC yourself, brushless is better. Futaba 3PV is good, no need to change that. The original receiver will work if the body is big enough to accommodate it. There's micro receiver for it too, here it is. bit.ly/2Xcwv2D Talking about noise; the drivetrain itself is quiet. However the thing that makes noise with this kind of car is the plastic tyres rubbing on the floor. If you have a wooden floor, forget it. It'll be extremely loud. You'll have to lay down some carpet or EVA mats to drift. As for rubber tiles that I have, it's not loud. Building HGD1 is not hard. However you'll need to look at the Mini-Q exploded diagram because it doesn't come with a manual. If you can, get some other car like Atomic DRZ V2 or GL Racing GLD. Those are much better cars as well and they are not hard to build and the manuals are very well-written which makes it much easier for a first time builder.

300mAh

Here are my build videos. These should help you with putting it together. Part 1 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d9yKg897nKzblYE.html Part 2 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a5tmfKSHndfJlps.html

Either this or DRZ v2. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=14329 HGD1 is easier to build and cheaper but DRZ v2 has more adjustability.

Yes, it will.

@@BeaversHobby great thanks! I think, I will try your K989 RWD Tuning first. But good to know...

@@unick599 My pleasure. Good luck with project!

Basically the same car but with plastic knuckles and some other plastic bits. I don't know if it's from the same manufacture but it's a cheaper option than getting a full aluminium chassis.

Since I wasn't sure how much servo throw I would need, it's better to have more than less. I'll fix the steering anyway so we'll see if I will keep the spacer later.

I'll have to re-check it but as far as I remember the gearbox is slightly different between kingpin suspension versions (Q3-Q6) and the wishbone suspension (Q7, Q9... which is cloned Q7). The front conversion is going to be difficult since it doesn't allow much steering angle on Q7/Q9. The most you can do is make the rear double wishbone.

This car is good for beginner but not because of gyro, it's because of massive steering lock that let you catch any drift. Gyro is necessary for RWD drifting and doesn't make it any easier for beginner. If this was an AWD car, yes, gyro will make it very easy.

The differences are in the front bulkhead and chassis plate at the front. You'll have to make the front bulk head not in the way when you steer and trim the chassis so the wheels can turn to near parallel. All of these can be solved if you have a 3D printer or a CNC machine or a metal cutter to make your own parts.

@@BeaversHobby Thank you! I think I will give a try!! 😅

@@MadMax-hq6uq My pleasure. Good luck with the project.

It doesn't require any soldering. The 2mm spacer isn't included. But you can also move the ball down one slot and cut the servo horn. This will decrease the steering angle a bit.

Yes, Firelap IW04 or L408 can be a good drift car with a bit of upgrades. It also has very good compatibility with Mini-Z bodies too. I'd suggest you upgrade the bearings first, you can buy them off ebay, don't have to be from a Kyosho dealer. Here's the tutorial. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nqiWpLly3-DHY4k.html Then since you already have a transmitter, you can get the Emax ES08MDII servo and a cheap ESC to overhaul the electronics. Here's the tutorial. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p7J9ZrSZm9HPpWg.html Then you can upgrade the wheels and tyres to use Mini-Z tyers. I'm not sure if Japan open the air mail route to your country yet but check out banzaihobby for Mini-Z parts. Wheel set for every offset: bit.ly/2VeVZsc 1.5mm offset narrow wheels: bit.ly/2WSecRf Drift tyres: bit.ly/2I3a74k Wide drift tyres (in case you want to use wide wheels): bit.ly/2nZaLIw

@@BeaversHobby thanks a lot

@@virtualpinball5065 My pleasure. Good luck with the project.

The spares are available on Alexpress. Still, most of the parts are cross-compatible with Mini-Q and Mini-Q and also the ball links are standard parts for any car so you can get those pretty easily.

The tool for camber is the same one on 1/10. I think I got it with Yeah Racing brand or something like this www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-3-in-1-camber-gauge-bu-for-all-1-8-and-1-10-on-road-cars-yt-0056bu-00030118 . You'll need to be careful because small cars are difficult to measure. As for the toe angle, I use this setup sheet (page 23) www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR3Wpns2hQkXcM5BF2PG22oDGho00WlTlaavE87bCyEDYr9e7YppoAxq75Y . You can also draw a straight line on a paper, put the car on it in parallel and then use ruler to draw the wheel angle then measure that with a protractor.

@@BeaversHobby thank you, you are too kind 👍🏼

@@leeboh87 My pleasure.

Yes, it'll fit. Here I use Tamiya 300ZX with this car. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ntiFpZWdr97Vm58.html

This HGD1 is the current Q8 RWD, it's alright. You can get Atomic DRZ V2, GL Racing GLD and BMR-X at roughly the same price so I recommend those instead. They are much better.

DriftArt3 all the way. Atomic DRZ V3 also seems to be a good car although I haven't tried it yet. GLD is alright if you are OK with doing some upgrades. Anyway, with your experience from 1/10 DriftArt's tricky build should pose no problem to you. It will deliver the best out of the box driving experience.

Yes, it looks really well designed. I kind of question the durability though (I have had bad experience with 3D printed chassis) but as far as the design goes, really good. Another interesting 3D printed chassis is PWK V2 which is designed for minimal scrub radius.

Thanks for the tip! Will do!

WLtoys original electronics has a limited servo throw I think it's from the built-in receiver. If you plug it to another receiver you can make it move more with EPA (end point setting) if the transmitter has it. As for RWD drift, normally we just extend the servo horn so the movement is bigger.

The body mount parts are from the body. The front lips are unique to each car. You'll get all of the necessary parts when you buy a body so there's nothing to worry about.

I find brushed motor smoother at low rev. The brushless motor that is smooth is expensive because you'll have to get a sensored system. Sensorless will have either little cogging in the low rev or starting speed is a bit higher. However brushless has better power delivery so once you punch it you can feel the torque coming in hard.

The motor size is called 130 in general. There are many names for brushless, 1410, 1625, 1525 and 1626. They are all the same size anyway. The best budget set is Surpass Rocket V2 3500KV or 5500KV depending on how big is your track. For small track under 3M width 3500KV will do fine. Otherwise 5500KV will give you more speed for larger track. Of course you can get the fast one (5500KV) and use a smaller pinion to tune as well. As for the ESC it depends on where you are, for some DasMikro V3 on Aliexpress is cheaper and for the others PN Racing V2 is cheaper. Pick either one you can buy. They both use Hobbywing program and are very good.

You don't really need 60C because even the battery can delivery that, the wire can't. I normally use Marka 350mAh 50C and I doubt it even draws that much. Burst, probably but 40C will be alright. If you need more power take a look at GNB HV. I have some 350mAh 7.6V and they are great. There are larger capacity too like 450mAh in case you want more run time.

I wound up tryin these 450mah Blomiky's that are only 25c and tbh it feels fine. Ill try a stronger battery though to see if it really makes a difference. Next goal is to figure out how to get more stability on the steering arms.. I knew of the issue before I got it in hopes I could fix it but cant figure it out xD @@BeaversHobby

Yes, it does.

DRZ V2 all the way.

Yes, the receiver is just a receiver so as long as you set it right (as VR knob) it'll work with gyro.

There are a couple of Q8s which non of them are from Sinohobby (original Mini-Q manufacture). I've seen Q8 in Aliexpress which is actually Q5OP that I mentioned in this video. The other one that got Q8 name is from some shops that decide to import HGD1 and call it Q8. So, check it thoroughly before buying. If the Q8 you see is AWD or 4WD then it's Q5OP. If it's RWD then it's HGD1.

@@BeaversHobby whoaa,, that's why, i can't find any information about q8 in sinohobby website, thank you

It's 3D printed guard rail I got from my friend on Facebook. He printed it for me. I think you can find similar things on thingiverse as well.

No, it's not. But you can use some M2 screws, M2 standoff and magnets with hole in the middle to make your own magnet mount like this one. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y9F7f8WDs9ioqI0.html

Get a newer, better chassis like GL Racing GLD or Atomic DRZ V2. XRX is also a great choice if you can get the chassis only version.

@@BeaversHobby I could only find xrx with electronics. Is this not very good?

@@0ffinnsive It's actually great but it's much too expensive because they'll give you aluminium case ESC which is fantastic for heat dissipation. However they charge it like 2-3 times the price of the plastic case version. Motor is also really good, it's Surpass Rocket V2 so nothing to worry there. Just ask if you can get the V2 or V3 gyro with EPA (end point). All in all, it's great if you don't have anything else yet or don't intend to use your own electronics.

Most of the standard 5g servos will fit. Mini-Q or WLtoys metal gear is the best budget servo. There's also AGF A11CLS which is one of the best right now. It's a bit narrower but it still fits. As for the motor, either brushed or brushless is fine. Just choose a suitable KV for drifting like 3500KV to 5500KV and you can keep it in control pretty easily. Brushless tends to last longer since there's no carbon brush inside to wear out. Gear pitch is mod 0.5 and 15T-16T is about right.

Ok thanks

My pleasure.

Hi Beaver, I'm looking for a suitable gyro for hgd1. The gyro that comes with this kit looks similar to AFRC GYS-2 gyro. How good it is actually? Does the servo shaking if you put the gyro gain to maximum? What is your gain setting? Btw BlueArrow AF D43S-6.0-MG servo specs also looks promising but not as expensive as AGF A11cls.

No, you don't need anything else. All the parts are included.

@@BeaversHobby thats awesome. I might pull the trigger and get one

Normally, no. The plugs are all standard JR and the ESC has JST RCY for battery so most of the batteries will use that already.

You can also find this car from Aliexpress as well. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000212209722.html It's out of stock in Banggood at the moment too. People tend to not check the availability before ordering so that becomes a problem later. My experience with banggod is excellent. ps. Sorry for late answer. It didn't show up in my feed.

Any Mini-Z AWD compatible ball diff will do fine. I use Sinohobby Mini-Q ball diff. It needs regular maintenance because dirt and grime are getting packed up really quickly but price/performance wise, it's really good. bit.ly/2Wm6puF

@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the information. is this good car for racing ? or only good for drift ? how to fix the steering issue that you mentioned it is not precise ? Thanks

@@jerrycheng5409 This is only for drift. You can potentially make it a touring car by reducing the steering angle by shorten the servo horn so it won't turn as much but it won't perform as well as a proper RWD touring car.

I will still work even though it's not that good nowadays. Take a look at TG Racing. That might also be in your budget. www.gt55racing.com/products/tg-racing-1-24-1-28-rwd-drift-car-kit-formal-edition-without-electronics-sky-blue

​@@BeaversHobby how would It be to build a budget brushed set Up, more or less with 250-280€? (With other Chassis that isnt the HGD1) Thank you for your help, is kinda hard to enter to the hobby

There's RTR in Aliexpress. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000212209722.html

Depending on how big the track is. For under 3x3M 3500KV is good. Otherwise get a 5500KV.

Unfortunately the front won't fit directly. You can drill the holes on the chassis to fit but this gearbox+control arm is narrow so it won't work that well.

Ok thanks