Hahaha. What an oxymoron...

This is why America is so fat!

1q

That wouldn't be a reason FOR the bar though. That would be BECAUSE of the bar. He is wrong about its purpose but that's not why.

What are the other 4 if you dont mind me asking? Lol just a grease monkey looking to spend money

@@tylerneace8412 1. Investment 2. House 3. Plane 4. Yacht

@@addictedtopussy69 what kind of plane did you buy?

@@yogib37 Don't have a plane yet, was just giving Tyler Neace ideas to spend money on. Although i am very close to pulling the trigger on a Vans RV10 kit plane.

Almost all commercial grade lifts require 7in of reinforced concrete already and as you can see there’s 2 styles with same weight ratings There’s a style with a floor panel and it doesn’t even bolt in just to cover the hydraulic lines So I would believe he is correct The heavier weight ones just have massive base plates not upper reinforcement

We own a shop and have full size 2 post lifts and one has the conduit up top and the other has it on the ground covered by a driver over plate. The upper conduit version is not bracing. The way it is assembled makes that very clear. I had a large Bendpak 6600 at home, I think MaxJax will be replacing it.

Mac Dawg, its not to bad. Me and a buddy knocked it out in a weekend. Looking back though i probably should have rented a gas concrete saw. I killed my buddy’s saw by the end. I think concrete had to cure 30 days so that sucked.

ThAts tragically why I had to rule this one out.

Jb weld !?% YOU ARE OUT No respect

Yep. Never heard that before.

Driveway just needs to be level

Thanks, i dont see why not

Most rebar is not supposed to be welded. It becomes brittle and loses strength rating. That’s why they normally use tie wire. Weldable rebar is available but you probably won’t be able to find it at your local home center.

bakhteria 42” is the highest locking position for this version of the lift. Ive had cars up in the air for months. No maintenance other than maybe occasional bleeding(every few years). One of my cylinders just started leaking after i made this video 😕. But 8 years was a good run. New cylinder will cost me $295 delivered. I could rebuild it but i just dont have the time and i need as little down time as possible with this lift.

lemmy999 the lift has the 2 holes already but if you want to make a third hole(which i did but do not recommend)...13/16 is exact but you could probably do 3/4 - 7/8. I just use the pads on the pinch welds typically or ill take 4” long pieces of 2x4 wood if i need a little bit of a gap. Some cars have body moldings over the rocker panel that hang down too low and will strike the yellow steel arms. Also there is a more expensive model that auto locks if you dont wanna mess around with locking pins.

@@ResurWreck Thanks. I had been thinking of getting the more expensive model that has 7 locking positions because I don't think I can use the tallest locking position on the one you have due to ceiling height. But I started seeing where people had just drilled an extra set of holes in them. You say you don't recommend, is that because you regret drilling the holes or is that just a disclaimer about it possibly weakening the tower a bit?

lemmy999 im just being cautious. its just because I’m taking an engineered product and butchering it with my drill. I am ok with taking the risk for myself but i dont want others to do something like this and either damage their lift or hurt themselves because I recommend it, thats all. But if you assume the risk you can see i did it and im still alive. What i forgot to do in the video is clarify why i did it. Its because when i work on tall vehicles, SUVS, or trucks, the highest setting is too high. For the average height car i can go all the way up and its no problem.

rokan81 i used 1/2” galvanized pipe to extend down from the pump to the floor and connected a hose to that and ran over to the other column.

Apparently, you didn't watch the video.

MELCHOR16 it was probably about 1.5”-2” under the surface. My concrete was only 3-3.5” thick so i had to drill in to it about halfway and slide the rebar in the existing concrete and use an concrete epoxy in the holes. Idk if the epoxy was necessary but i wanted to make sure the rebar didn’t move.

Lou Polite it was centered originally but i just unbolted the whole assembly(mount,opener,track,etc) and attached over to the right a few feet so it would clear the vehicle but kept it as close to center as possible. I believe the garage door is 16’ wide.

Acording to the manual these are the options For 110-120 volt, single phase, use a 30 amp breaker. For 208 -230 volt, single phase, use a 25 amp breaker. For 208-230 volt, three phase, use a 20 amp breaker. For 380-440 volt, three phase, use a 15 amp breaker.

Rex Aventuna my local building department doesn’t require. The lift is marketed to homeowners but is made pretty heavy duty. I don’t know if its rated residential or commercial but id imagine most commercial shops wouldn’t be interested in a lift like this.

rpat312 8’ high ceiling, garage door height is 7’-6”.

Chuck's Truck the lowest cars ive worked on with this lift is a C5 corvette and a lowered BMW 3 series. So far no issues. the profile of the lift arms are lower than most hydraulic jacks ive seen

ResurWreck thanks.

did you torque the sleeves before you installed the column with the hardware included in the wedj-it box?

@@ResurWreck Yes, I installed the anchors according to the instruction manual (set 5/8"' in and turned nut 3 turns while holding bolt head). The 3 turns was harder to obtain on some of the anchors than others. When torquing the columns down (90 ft-lbs) 2 of the anchors lifted up against the base plate. I used a brush, compressed air and water to clean the holes prior to the install. Now I'm not sure how to deal with the anchors that didn't set.Trying to decide if I should try pulling them out, risking them setting above the level of the concrete or hammer them back down (possibly deeper than 5/8") and trying again. I drilled the holes to about 6". Concrete is 12" thick & 4600 psi.

@@smitter113 hmm, maybe there was some variance with the holes. If it were me id rather have them grab at the right depth then grab too close to the surface. maybe try to reset and tighten more. You can also check with wedjit or maxjax support too.

to answer your original question i had so much dust in the hole they slid out fairly easily. in your case the holes are clean so might not work out the same. make sure the holes are dry too, if there was moisture use a hairdryer and try again later

@@ResurWreck I def could not get the anchors out, but I was able to reset them. They're a bit deeper now (about 1/2" below surface) but at least I know they're set. Gotta grab a couple longer bolts now. Thx a lot for the responses!

cueballsi no problem. I drilled 4 holes in the post and used the pump mounting plate as a template. originally I wanted to throw the hose in the attic and go overhead but i chose to leave on the floor. When i need to i just disconnect the quick connection on the hose going to the column so i can roll around under the car easier once the lift is locked in position. In the attic would probably be more convenient but im used to the way it is now on the floor. I used 1/2” galvanized pipe and fittings to run down to the floor, then its joined to the hose on the floor and then over to the other side.

well the whole idea behind this lift is that it unbolts and rolls away on the attached wheels when not in use. As opposed to a traditional 2 post lift which is unmovable with one guy.

imaspacewoman the simple answer is that the manual says to drill the holes in cured concrete and then install the wedge it sleeves. The real answer (i think) is that the wedge-it sleeves expand when you tighten them in hard concrete, they expand inside the hole and grab on to the walls of the hole and are permanently stuck. If you stuck them in the wet concrete you couldn’t tighten/expand them until the concrete cured. But if you had any air pockets between the sleeve and the concrete at all there is the possibility that it wouldn’t grab the walls of the concrete properly and they would just spin in the hole and never expand. If you put them in the wet concrete and didn’t expand the sleeves they would definitely come out of the concrete when any weight was applied on the lift and the lift would definitely fall over.

Tom Diederich its exactly 109”. Ive done cars as small as a Mini Cooper to as big as a Ford F150 crew cab. I have tool boxes, tables, shelves and equipment on every wall, so it was important that I preserved side space between the lift and the walls. It is really difficult sometimes for me to squeeze into the interior of the car depending on the position of the doors. I wouldn’t change anything because I need to cram my shop with things to get my rebuilds done but if I didn’t need so much stuff I might go 112” or so. A few inches might help getting in and out of the car. You could also put extra fasteners in the floor to get two different positions or more if you needed to though.

@@ResurWreck thanks a bunch for the additional info! Installing mine right now :-)

@@ResurWreck I was thinking of having one near a wall and then to center it up to the garage door opening it leaves me with the other column spaced at 126" (distance between the rear of each base plate as shown in the manual). That gives me around 100" between the columns (from front of base plate to front of base plate). I do not have any vehicles that big but I would like to have one column as far to the side as reasonable and the space between the columns centered. Since the arms extend to 40" I think I would still be able to lift Miatas and Mini Coopers. I think the worst case scenario would be a long, narrow car like the old 280Z 2+2, but even that looks doable. Do you see any negatives of having them spaced that far apart?

109 from back base plate to back base plate ?????

I did it all, brother in law helped tho, never did it before. It wasn’t hard just watched some videos online. I dont know the exact amount I bought but there are calculators online you can use. Under $500 but i don’t remember exact cost

@@ResurWreckAwesome! Were you able to do it all with one load of concrete?

Possibly but it would be hard to pull the wheels off if it was that close to the wall

i do but you could also disconnect it and move it as there is a quick connect fitting. there is other ways to route the hose too or you could use pipe

That has to be one of the dumbest things I've ever read.

Let me guess you got your idea from a comic book.

Damn! I like that idea. It wouldn’t be cheap, but neither are funerals!

Not very high, you will have to move the motor and track off center

rottdogsparky i just drilled 8 holes in the post and used regular lock nuts and bolts. I used the pump and the other part that goes on the cart (not sure what its called, maybe a hydraulic distributor?) as a template.

@@davidandresjr2050 how did it go? What parts did you need and was it difficult? Any thoughts of going overhead with the hoses?

disarmyou84 6000lbs

NightMusic1 no cant stand, unless you’re really short. But you can sit on a rolling stool. Still 1 million times better, faster, and safer than jacks and stands

NightMusic1 if you have the height there is no real reason to a buy maxjax

@@ResurWreck I think you're forgetting that they are portable. You can move them out of the way when not used, or mount on the driveway for taller vehicles.

TheGaragemahal i don’t use transmission jacks. i use a lift table. it will bring the car 44” off the ground

If the car was low/small enough its probably possible

If you know and use recommended jack points usually not an issue. If/When you remove an engine just need to be mindful of the weight shift. I just lift a few inches off the floor and use my body weight on the front and back to check this.

I don't see why not not, lift might wear quicker outside but if you stored inside shouldn't make a big difference. If it rains might have to cover the electrical and keep wedgit holes plugged up for sure.

ResurWreck how heavy is each post, I wonder if you could put casters on each post mount corner and roll it away. Oh nm I see it has small weeks already.

That method might work fine but what we did was recommend by MaxJax as the solution for concrete floors not meeting minimum thickness. Their engineers came up with this solution not me.