+RevZilla what about drum brakes

With drum brakes, you generally have to remove the wheel. -DrewZilla

ok thanks i have a project to fix up its a 1978 ds80 80cc. it was used for on/off road but now it's rusty and tank has big bents in it but as i sayed project bike. thank you so much that you read the comments i hope you read this

Omg! I love you! Thanks for this video! I'm going to be changing my bike's brake pads, have done so in a car, now time to do it on my bike. 🏍✌💯💝

Did you push in the pistons in this video?

not quite the Lemmy I grew up with but I like where you are going!

holy crap I just sw the name tag. For clarity, Lemmy is the name of the singer/bass player from Motorhead, a nickname from when he was all poor and used to ask everyone if they would "lemme a fiver".

I don't even pay a shop to do the brakes on my cars, and those require a lot more work. You don't even need to take off the wheel or lift it. You live and learn.

"Kucklehead's garage" will always be there for you!

lol

BIKELESS BROS UNITE

Same no bike....yet. Researching first

Got one yet ?

There might be more bikeless bros watching these than you think. Since buying a used small CC bike is the easiest and cheapest way to start your motorcycling career, knowing how to do basic maintenance on a bike is pretty important. You don't want to start learning on a dangerous bike. Brakes, oil change, new chain and sprocket might be things you change before you even start riding. Even if the bike is in great shape, those are things you either want to change or at least have an idea if they are still in good shape before start riding. If you crash, it should be because you lack the skill. It shouldn't be because the bike was trying to kill you.

overflow? it's a closed system

It’s not air-tight, oil can flow thru your brake fluid (cylinder?) top container thing. Happened to me today when replacing brake fluid.

True.

@@etaybokish it absolutely should be air tight. If it overflowed then you must have had the resevoir lid off because brake fluid does not compress it would naturally flow out the top so .....that wasnt very smart.

@@etaybokish of course it's air tight. It has to be so tight that under enormous hydraulic pressure nothing leaks out. That's it's entire job.

Jrock420blam I was thinking the same. Quarter container of pb and half a gallon of jelly. Per slice lol

I actually spread my bread on my bp&j 🙆🏻‍♂️

as an ex bike mechanic and raced in the R6 cup 2 decades ago i can confirm 100% that bike mechanics dont always do the job right and they certainly arent cleaning all your parts thoroughly when they are off. Just so you know that.

It's easy to learn though

What do I do if I've pulled the break lever please help!

So what did you do? Or you're still out of ride?

@@1scott921 we shall never know

God Bless You Madam!!😁🙌👍

Bike brake lines are magnitudes stronger and for the weight of the caliper they can take it for fun. Bike brake lines are made in cross ply and radial as they are designed to constantly move and streach so they can take the weight of even a large caliper no problem. The problem with leaving car calipers dangling on the hoses is that the caliper is about 3 ton and the short section of hose is lesser quality than motorbike ones and they dont like bending more than a few inch in one direction. See in any circumstances where your hoses cannot take the weight of a caliper id suggest that your hoses were long by their best and needing replacing anyway. On cars its always the end fittings where it holds onto the hose that get it when you dangle the caliper on the hose alone.. or its when the outer hose has perished enough that cracks are showing it ends up punishing them hairline cracks and sometimes they hold out for 6 month afterwards in that case but it does seriously age them in that case so i agree with you on the car side of things. Bikes you really dont want any weaknesses on the brake lines at all as you fall off motorbikes

avoid EBC now they are garbage they have cheapened out the brand big time over the last 5yr. SBS are the old EBC and the ones everyone here in UK, IOM and Ireland are using. The Double HHs EBC went from one of the best to one of the worst in one swoop so be warned.

You're absolutely right. Lemmy mentions this detail in his companion article as well: _"If you have been adding fluid, you may want to visit our how-to on servicing the hydraulic portion of your brakes and you may need to draw some of the fluid out of the reservoir before you start. Otherwise, a brake job may end up turning into a paint job, because spilled brake fluid is nasty to your paint."_ -DrewZilla

brake fluid levels indicate brake pad wear when the level drops. brake fluid shouldn't go away or you got bigger problems.

welcome aboard :D .. just remember gloves on everything u touch on the bike .. used motoroil .. brakedust .. all carcinogenic so be careful

Brake cleaner .... beware the first ride .... grease will burn off or run it for a Km and stop and wipe disk rotor with brake cleaner to get ride of the transfer of grease .... not a biggie.

How'd it go?

Asad Siraj I don't think that he is done yet.

Some say he's still trying to change his brake pads to this very day

That's perfectly fine, kawi just recommend removing from the top as it is the faster way to get the job done and if you're a car mechanic I'm sure you know the importance of book time vs actual work time when it comes to ringing up the bill at the dealer. You can easily pull the caliper off, clean the dust off thoroughly, and replace the pads with the caliper in your hand. That said, on a bike that new a full inspection is not really required. I hope that helps! -Zack

pushing pistons back you want to have either the cap and diaphragm etc off the rez and fluid at least at the low level OR you can undo the caliper bleeder enough that it's letting fluid out when you press. Other than that there is no secret. If you fight the sealed unit to get the pistons back in you are driving fluid back up the system and relying on the give in the diaphragm under the rez cap to take up the pressure and equalise it. Air in the system is an entirely different thing if you had air somewhere then a pad change is likely to push that air about to another position mate.

too add to my last reply rather than edit it > see the -low level- on the rez thats deemed the low level beacuse its where you would still want the fluid to be with the bike on its stand with the steering cocked in the worst position height wise. Its the amount that shouldn't spill out with stand wobble and shouldnt allow any angle to get air into it enough that it can be inhaled into the system even if you pull on the lever really fast.

Lubricants are specific to the application, so you really need to refer to your factory service manual (or get a factory service manual and confirm the specification if you don't already have one). It's important to use what the manufacturer specifies. -DrewZilla

For most motorcycle brake calipers, it really wouldn't make a difference. -DrewZilla

That tip actually worked wonders on my Superduke. I just replaced rotors and they were dragging. I loosened the caliper screws about a turn, pulled the lever and with pressure applied I tightened all the caliper mounting screws. I went from the wheel spinning about a half turn to a full 360.

Nice!

I rode it today and it feels back to normal. Thanks MotoHolota! Great video Lemmie!

Glad to hear. :)

It can help, though we recommend you reference a service manual for the manufacturer recommendation. -DrewZilla

didn't clean the calipers before depressing them in the bores?

+Jeff Cobb At least you'll dead doing something you love! Could be worse!

Yeah I know , I work in a brake pad factory , you want to see the dust in there !!!!!! Life expectancy not long 👎🏻😫

rip wilswood -2018

Its only carcinogenic in california

I like to hose the brakes down with just a little water before I get started or you can use brake cleaner if you're rich.

+Richard Oda You just don't want to damage the piston by using a tool directly on it. You're probably ok though. -DrewZilla

You can losen the main cylender of fluid to release the pressure, this will help allow the pistons to move

Well I successfully changed my front pads (first time I’ve done it) last weekend after watching your video so thank you anyway you big meanie! 😂

ZLA Lemmy No, it wasn’t, but you do need someone to show you first. I wasn’t going to risk cocking it up on my only bike. I guess that’s why a lot of bikers leave it to the pros. Need to do rear pads now! 😆

Copper grease will also ruin the rubber sadly .. silicone all the way man :) around brakes at least

Howd it go?

How'd it go

@@justan-eli9262It went well, I did my back brakes to begin with. I figured if I somehow messed it up, I'd only lose 20% of my braking capacity since the front would still work. But I'm confident now in my ability to do a brake job. I finished it in 20 minutes or so, and I'm a two left handed mechanic. But I like to just try and play around with it, to get better at it and save some coin in the long run!

@@crazedexplorer See my answer below :)

+cybnitts We used EBC brake pads. -DrewZilla

LAWRENCE HARRIS safety wire

Yes, that's completely normal. The pads are in touch with the disc all the time so it is normal that they produce a dragging sound.

We recommend you consult the factory service manual for your specific bike to know whether it's necessary. -DrewZilla