Fascinating to watch your videos. As a woodturner I appreciate your coolness approach on task. I really like it! Like your end piece, élégant lines. Kingston, Ontario Canada.

Take care with that very nasty dust.

I turned a lot of Iroko, since it was donated to me. Oddly enough, I had no sensitivity to Iroko dust, even being me very easy to allergies. I have lots of issues with oak and beech. To work with beech I need a full mask with changable filters, or I risk to be on steroids for days.

Showing how to overcome problems and work around defects is what makes a demonstration interesting and more informative.

All that I know has been out there for nearly 40 years in books and videos which deal with all the techniques in these videos oin greater depth.

I am aware, and am looking at adding to my collection of turning literature during the year.

I was quite pleased with that one.

When I began turning in 1970 bowl gouges were ground square (like deep-fluted roughing gouges are today). When hollowing bowls I kept catching the left wing, so I ground it back to the swept-back convex curve I use today. From that I developed the short right wing and the spiral grind, with a 45 degree bevel on the nose and a steep bevel on the near-square right wing. This steep bevel makes shear cutting concave curves on a bowl profile very easy, whilst still taking a heavy shaving when hollowing. The steep bevel also allows a shear cut using a gouge as you cut into centre inside a bowl, although I prefer to use scrapers into centre as I have more control over the shape. When I rounded the left wing I soon discovered that it's ideal for heavy cuts when developing a bowl profile. Essentially where many bowl turners have two gouges, one with a steep bevel and one longer, I have a 2-in-1 gouge.

There's probaby a date with the signature. I'm in Australia, in Canberra.

@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you for answering. I'll check my book. Enjoy your Chanel. I was excited to find your videos. I've always liked your videos and seeing you in person was a real treat. Good luck with your endeavors in the future!!!

It's a Makita angle drill, about 15 years old and pre-cordless. Hitachi used to make one and in the USA I seem to remember a Sioux 45-degree drill being popular for power sanding.

JCB with prescription lenses purchased through my local optometrist.

My hand is never directly over the edge of he skew chisel and my fingers are never exposed. In nearly 50 years of teaching this technique I've never had anyone cut using this technique. If there's a catch the tool is kicked away from the supporting fingers. The hand is to equalise any tool pressure against the wood and limit vibration. If you do not use supporting grips or some form of mechanical steady on slender work it is near impossible to cut a surface free of chatter marks. You need to appreciate that a wide or thick shaving comes from presenting the edge at the best angle, not by forcing the edge into the wood. Tool prssure against the wood needs to be minimal.

A spindle gouge is fine on the inside of bowls up to 50mm deep if the bevel is 45-degrees or steeper. If turning an internal a cylinder, a detail gouge with a long bevel (which is thicker than a standard ½-in spindle gouge) is the only gouge that will cut comfortably into a corner. You'll see that when I turn a crossgrain box.

@@RichardRaffanwoodturning thank you very much

Hey Gonzalo, my guess is you were told not to use a Spindle Roughing Gouge on a bowl because those typically have thin square section tangs that are not designed to hold up to the alternating end grain you get on a bowl. Mr. Raffan is using round section Spindle Gouges that have enough tang to support the size of their cutting edge.

@@GardnersGrendel makes sense, thank you as well! Appreciate it and you are correct

I"ve been using boiled linseed oil on just about everything for about 30 years, usually mixed with beeswax during finishing. YOu'll see it in most of my videos. My scrapers have a 45-degree bevel on the nose and steeper on the sides. There's a video in this series on grinding scrapers. When using a scraper I make sure the angle between the top of hte tool and the surface I'm cutting is less than 90 degrees - the so-called negative rake. .

It's a Jet DC1200 with the Vortex Cone and the cannister conversion on top.

@@RichardRaffanwoodturning thanks!

Nothing speeded up or cut out in my videos, Tom. You see it all as it happened, just like a live demo at a woodturning club demo or symposium.

@@RichardRaffanwoodturning well then, there must be a lot of truth in the phrase “practice make perfect”. It was fascinating to see how quickly you were able to turn those chunks of wood into beautiful little bowls so quickly. Thanks for the demo of how to turn what I would have probably either thrown away or more likely kept until they rotted away trying to figure out how to a lid, finial or pen blank out of them, because I would never even thought of tiny bowls. I still think you employed so so of magic to make not just one little bowl, but two out of those chunks of wood. Thanks again. Cheers, Tom

The only tools I have that might pass for negative rake scrapers are skew chisels. I think negative rake scrapers are a waste of time and nothing more than a marketing ploy, another tool to sell, another tool for turners to demonstrate at symposiums. Everything I've been told and shown, could only be done with a negative rake, I could do as well or better with my standard scrapers. The geometry of a negative rake scraper makes cutting internal cylinders trickier than using a standard scraper, although for turning internal cylinders, a bedan is even better.

Where you can find beeswax rather depends on where in the world you are. Any woodturning supply store should stock sticks of beeswax, or you might know someone who keeps bees. A good alterniative is paraffin wax in the form of a plain wax candle.

@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you, boss. The candle option never occurred to me.

Savez vous maisondutournage.com ou www.auvergne-tournage.com/outils-hamlet-crafts-tool-c102x4186509?PGFLngID=0

@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Merci pour votre réponse, je ne l ai pas trouvé sur ces deux sites ( dont je suis client ) je leur téléphone demain Encore Merci

I did my last production order about 14 years ago. I was ready to retire after nearly 40 years standing at a lathe, and galleries were either closing after the GFC or insisting on consignment - which I never had to do and wasn't going to start doing. I've done very little turning since apart from a few symposium demonstrations, an occasional hands-on workshop, and a few commissions. I've never been a hobby turner.

@@RichardRaffanwoodturning That's totally understandable. Thank you for doing these videos. I've learned more in the past 3 days than I've learned in the past 3 years lol.

I was never going to remove the foot. Dishes tend to look better with a foot, so it's there to raise the profile off the surface it's sitting on and make it easier to pick up.