“Laughs in m249” lol

I wish folks here in Africa were as honest as the teacher who returned your lighter, my daughter gave me an engraved zippo, I absent-mindedly left it on a bench at a service station, realised not more than two minutes later but it was long gone.

I have "The Rifleman" on DVD. When you watch the opening sequence on a large screen TV you can see the glint of a couple of cases as they are ejected from his carbine. Chuck Connors was a former pro athlete and could fire the carbine even faster than shown, but he was told to slow it down because the camera was having trouble catching his movements. The reason for so many shots being fired is that two different camera shots are used and spliced together to form a longer screen effect. He was using the old 5-in-1 blanks, so recoil was not an issue, but the smoke emanating from the breech and muzzle was real. The gunfire sound we hear in TV shows and movies is almost always dubbed. This is done for improved dramatic effect.

Take a look closely in the beginning of the show and you will I believe, see brass Fly out of the receiver 3 or 4" high.

@@Paladin1873 You're absolutely right on.

Thank you and have a great season.

He lives in NH? Damn I want to meet him

As a Jeff Cooper Generation era guy I STILL find his opinions to be accurate for the most part especially when it comes to "Big, relatively slow, bullets make bigger holes down range"! The first time I read an article he mentioned the "60 Second Rule" as regarded rifles I thought he was crazy....Until I gave it a try with my favorite hunting rifle of the time, a 1960s era .30-30 Winchester '94....And discovered he had a solid point.....I do still have problems with the scope placement when it comes to his idea of what should constitute a "Scout Rifle"....That's why they make see through scope rings....But that's just me.

is he talking about the support hand ?

@@newerest1 I don't think so. I learned to do it with my right hand/trigger finger with my .30-30 way back when BUT I did practice with my "weak hand/trigger finger" too.

That's crazy, I can barely do that with a large slice of pizza with 3 toppings.

Hold it out to the side or in front of you?

I'm sorry for your loss

I feel your pain as I had to sell, thankfully to one of my two dearest friends, a 1954 "JM" 336 chambered in .35 Remington back in 2012 due to unavoidable circumstances....HOWEVER I lucked up, found, and purchased, an unfired (or even loaded) 1976 "JM" 336, also in .35 Remington, in in 2014 which will be seeing it premier in the deer fields here in South Carolina very shortly....My other closest friend is after me to sell him my current 336 as he has "Thumped....And thumped right there and then" four very nice eatin' size deer with the 1954 336 mentioned above and borrowed from it's current owner!!! He wants my '76 336 A LOT and I have promised that I would leave it to him in my will....Really!

They came home with pretty well developed biceps, too!

I have my grandad zippo that my dad sent him from a px in 69 in Vietnam. My grandad had his name ingraved on it. Grandad was 3rd army under general Patton WW2. Thank you sir for your service!!

Where did u find that sling I’ve been having a hard time locating them

@@cizzle1581 Amazon is where I got mine.

Have a happy Veteran's Day, and thank you for your service!

@@GunBlue490 I have a Marlin model 60 if left loaded 12 hrs or so round in chamber wont fire eject to next round works fine , any suggestions ?

Great pro baseball and basketball player, too.

Leading is simple. It's caused by improper bullet fit in the bore or cylinder throat, inadequate or incorrect lube, excessive velocity for the bullet alloy/hardness you're shooting, or extreme prolonged temperatures and pressures on the base of the bullet. You fix the cylinder/chamber throat and forcing cone leading by using the correct bullet size for the gun you load for. Measure the cylinder chamber throat and use a lead bullet .001" bigger than that. Always go by revolver cylinder throat diameter, not barrel or forcing cone diameter. You fix leading at the muzzle end that's caused by insufficient or improper lube by using a bullet with more lube grooves or by switching lubes to a different type. You fix leading at the mid or muzzle section that caused by high velocity by increasing the hardness of the bullet either through alloy changes or quenching changes. You fix leading caused by magnum loads that have extreme pressure and temperature by using harder bullets that have a copper gas check installed on the base to protect the lead base from melting on its way down the bore. If you use properly sized, properly lubed bullets of the correct hardness for the load's velocity and with a gas check if needed, you won't have any excessive lead fouling anywhere in the chamber or bore. Whatever you find is going to be the small amount of normal fouling that comes out very easily with a bronze brush and Hoppe's #9. If you have mechanical issues like a incorrectly aligned cylinder throat to forcing cone which deforms the bullet as it jumps, or a badly pitted bore from rust, that will cause leading no matter what you do. The deformed, shaved bullet will pass gasses by and the pitting catches lead like a cheese grater. If you have a situation where you just can't get the leading to stop for whatever reason that you're unable to easily remedy (like wildly oversized cylinder throats or bore diameter), tools like the Lewis Lead Remover work well since they pull the lead out of the rifling. Lead solvent works on more minor fouling. Peracetic acid can be used on stainless barrels/cylinders or chrome lined bores but be VERY cautious with this. VERY cautious; do a lot of your own research. Dispose of leaded peracetic acid in a tightly sealed container and don't get it on your skin. It's known as "silencer dip" to a lot of people. You can also use electrolysis to dislodge heavy fouling, and this works well for pitted bores. Some say penetrating oil like Kroil will get under lead and help remove it. I'm an ex-auto tech and penetrating oils did nothing to help me so I don't waste any money on them at all. 🤷🏻‍♂️

@@mannys9130 Wow thank you for the very in depth answer! I would still like to see what GunBlue490 has to say on the subject. Thanks again and i will defiantly take your advice.

We love them too, have four in my household; .22-250REM, .270WIN, .308WIN, & .30-06SPRG. I had to buy several to keep the kids from trashing my higher-end rifles with nice walnut stocks(No.1s). All save the .22-250 have put multiple elk in the freezers. The .22-250 has dusted a few coyotes. Agree they all shoot like a dream. With so many guns in the collection, and several identical except in caliber, each rifle, pistol, or shotgun caliber, is assigned a color and every single thing associated with that caliber(gun, magazines, ammo, ammo boxes, jags, etc.) gets marked alike with its color electric tape or Sharpie pen. Safety first, no confusion.