Basically, though I'd imagine it'd be hard to steel a mainsheet, I guess you'd gather a bunch of sand from the beach in order to create a cast and then pour the molten steel to form a new sheet, the heat from the foundry could certainly be a plus on those extra cold days. LOL

up j

bought one yet?

Thank you!

Thank you!

the reason you dont use a bowline, is because it gives you a few cm less of pulling in the main sheet (about 5-10 cm). its always a 8-knot behind the block, the chance of it opening is so unlikable nobody really cares about it.

You can’t trim in all the way with a bowline

I like to use a double overhand stopper for the mainsheet at both ends

A bowline even if tied small prevents full block to block trim, the reason not to use a double or triple overhand knot is because it creates a larger knot which may cause more friction, since the pulley wheel is up against the knot. A double overhand is fine for the other end of the mainsheet and don't worry, the eight knot at the block end won't come undone while sailing. You're correct that eight knots can come undone for example at the loose end of the sheet from flailing around. The double or triple overhand can be a better option at the loose end in the cockpit also because here you want a bigger knot to prevent the tail from running out of the mainsheet block.

Laser43009 great tip, I've destroyed my old sail because I've done it wrong way

That's a good point, I never put my sail on wet pavement or if you're sailing in a hot climate it might be too hot for the sail, I usually roll the sail over my boat if you can't lay it on the ground. Some regattas you don't have much choice.

Ja, das ist einfacher :) The only reason I didn't is the Kugelsperrbolzen I got here didn't seem to fit properly, it left a good bit of play so I opted for the snug fit pin with ring dings. Your way is better, anytime you can avoid ring dings it's a win!

The metal piece can pop off with alot of sailing, so that ensures it stays on. If you lose the metal piece the traveler line will saw through the tiller.

I have tape on mine because the metal part was popping off the tiller, but the traveller should still contact the metal, not the tape, or else the tape gets worn out (the metal doesn't get worn out, it's tough enough)

feel free to ask and maybe I can help you solve that mystery..

I do, it's https;//sailing-store.com

it has a sleeve, but may have a halyard in the future

You can go pretty thin, 7/64th dyneema is the smallest that will work when you crank it on, you can go with a similar sized covered dyneema and it will hold easier, I also came up with a new design with an added block for the mkII sail

laserxd.com/how-to-rig-a-laser-sailboat-in-less-than-5-minutes/ I'll do an updated improved version soon, I've changed the specs slightly on my rigging.

On lasers the boom doesn't move separately, it moves with the mast.

YaZzY _ Why is that so?

The mast can and does rotate in the step.

Toby Que Simplicity and reduction of weight I believe.

It depends on where in the world you are, these are the names that are used here though if you use kicker and downhaul everyone will know what you mean. You can check the class rules which use vang and Cunningham to define those parts: www.laserinternational.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/ILCA-Class-Rules-2018.pdf