Many thanks - I’ll try and do something in the future.

Mike Robinson few different ways but stressing it slightly with a finger nail etc works well .

Andy Brandwood Hi Andy , it doesn’t have a brand name on it - it was on Amazon for about £80

@@howardcrostonflyfisher9227 thanks for the info. Found one pretty similar. Will deffinately save my eyes. Cheers. Andy

You can get very deep by dropping a load of slack in the line as the nymph lands, use a tuck cast. Or you can cast into the head of plunge pools to use the water pressure to get it down.

Hi John , Many thanks . The lamps a daylight type off Amazon, didn’t have a brand name on it unfortunately.

Cheers - I still use those flies a lot , Mark bowler made the names up as I generally don’t get into the naming flies deal as there’s little that’s truly “new” . I will add a few more tying videos later .

@@howardcrostonflyfisher9227 Great-Thanks

Yes you can do that of course, but as this method for me is more suited to longer drift window/ smaller fly approach I prefer the better indication/ lower resistance to movement of a distressed sighter, over the heavier fly line tip .

Hi Duncan , I blood knot them together . Cheers Hc

Hi Mike , Yes I typically use brass beads for fishing shallow edges when the fish are pressured to prevent too many fish spooking from the impact .

Thank you, that is greatly appreciated.

Hi Francesco . You can vary the length of the level tippet to suit the water / size of river / depth . I generally use it as short as practical to get the fly down based on the weight of the flies . Often it is around 2-3m . Diameter depends on water clarity / how pressured the fish , I use 0.12 - 0.08 the most , usually 0.12-0.10.

Thomas Holtmann so as with a lot of things it really depends on a lot of factors. Size of the river and how well you can cover it with a shorter rod , predominant water type and what you “feel like “ fishing . I often take 2 rods ,one dry one nymph and carry one of them on a belt holder. If I’m out for a short evening session in good weather I may just take my dry rod . Occasionally I will take my Greys Streamflex + 3# it’s a good compromise for both and can be fished 9.6ft or 10ft .

Stephen quartering upstream normally, but the line drifting over them doesn’t normally spook them as much as the impact of the fly / heavier fly lines landing .

@@howardcrostonflyfisher9227 Thanks!

No not at all, you can use them just fine with many other techniques.

Hi Andrzej , Any kind of tuck cast usually creates some slack in the leader , generally I’m using the upstream nymph method where I can rely on a longer drift window to gain enough depth . You could make a tuck cast if the situation your fishing in needs it . Thanks Hc

@@howardcrostonflyfisher9227 thanks for taking the time out to reply. I started using thinner lines last year to get the nymph down quicker when euro nymphing and was amazed by the fact I would have to drop tungsten bead size as I would start catching the bottom more, even on a rising river. So when trying traditional upstream nymphing I am guessing lighter lines and longer drifts are the way to go and only use tuck cast when the on the drift length is limited. Thanks for the advice and stay safely Andrzej

mikebriggs1973 Hi - Sorry , I picked them up in a tackle shop in Asia - it’s a carp fishing line that’s used for some strange kind of float fishing . You can get white and black from Cortland and pink and yellow from Rio .

Hi Drew , I haven’t fished the San Juan but it is on the list . From what I’ve read and watched about the river it’s hard to say if there would be any “advantage “ over a light suspension device , but I’m sure it would still work . Before I started to specialise in competition fishing with all the associated rules (many of them pretty pointless) I used to be a big fan of fishing tiny Midge pupa / micro nymphs with short 1/4” -1/2” sections of core less fly line threaded onto the leader and held by the knots . Outside of comp rules that was my preferred method of upstream light Nymph fishing . I’m currently working on a book but it’s slow going . Thanks for the comments.

@@howardcrostonflyfisher9227 In your pre-comp days, when you used to fish diminutive midges with little pieces of fly line as indicators, how did you get your flies down to the fish? Did you use split shot? If so, where on the tippet did the split shot go (i.e., in relation to your nymphs)?

@@alexargyros7186 no split shot , just wire weighted flies or v small beads , with fine tippet and a much longer drift window .

​@@howardcrostonflyfisher9227 how's the book going? I would definitely buy it

Paul Marshall hi Paul thanks - yes 30 cm each but no hard and fast rule on that .

@@howardcrostonflyfisher9227 Many thanks for the swift and clear reply . I always lack the confidence and control to use the no fly line European style . This appeals more .

woodman yes it works well .

Hi John , I understand what your getting at but I would be careful as often in trying to make a more “versatile “ set up you end up sacrificing the major advantages of both methods.

@@howardcrostonflyfisher9227 that’s a very fair comment and I could just have another rod set up instead couldn’t I. I’m sure you will tell me otherwise that isn’t the transition from flyline to indicator to tippet still a bit abrupt? I’m just thinking about how visible that fly line is in the fishes view? Genuinely looking for your thoughts, not to argue the toss. All the best John

@@johnrensten The transition is abrupt on purpose , the higher diameter fly line / coloured section of heavy mono is relatively easy to float , the thin level tippet is easy to sink with less weight and any interference with the drifting nymph ( ie a take) is very quickly transmitted to the fly line tip . Any built in taper off the end of the fly line adds drag both to the sinking flies (meaning more weight may be needed ) and also interferes with take detection . The upstream nymph rig works extremely well in certain water types, but I would never fish it in any scenario Where I wanted to elevate the rod and directly control the fly . There are much better set ups for that. You can use a tapered butt section / coloured sighter and grease it heavily to “float the sighter” and still use it elevated to “Euro nymph” as your suggesting and it does work but the reality is with that set up when you elevate you need to overweight the files to offset sag , when you float the sighter at range you are similarly limited in the opposite way - the taper + floated sighter can’t “carry “ as much weight over a longer drift window . A tapered butt + indicator mono was how many of us fished “Euro style” in competition 10-15 years ago before we started to use more refined, thin , level leaders for fishing anything elevated .

@@howardcrostonflyfisher9227 thank you again for all the info, I will stick with the set up as you suggest and this sounds like just the thing I need for fishing the lower test. All the best John

TheFiatars You need to find an opaque,solid colour mono , not a translucent one . In lower diameters there’s lots of choices- Rio /Hanak /Cortland etc - in larger diameters for attaching to the end of the fly line I use a Korean carp fishing line I found but can’t tell you the name as I can’t read it !. You should be able to overcome it by using an acrylic paint marker as mentioned in my other video.

@@howardcrostonflyfisher9227 just ordered 'I Create' set of six neon coloured acrylic pens off the bay. Can do an update when they arrive if anyone reads this.

Oh just read that you use sakura. Oh well.

@@howardcrostonflyfisher9227 Hi Howard, paint arrived Friday but only managed to get out today. Was six colours in the box so mono was lit up like a rainbow, I fished the tea coloured water of the river Derwent at Ebchester. The blue stood out in particular but must admit it all wore off halfway through fishing and I left the pens at home. I tied on a 60cm length of 15lb painted chameleon, to 90cm of 3lb fluoro, I found that the energy had nowhere to dissipate and the fly line was pinging back and coiling up a couple inches below the tippet. Should I have used a longer length of 15lb? N.b. I was deliberately high pooled by a guy that watched me tackle up and get in at the footbridge, he used dry dropper method, when we got back to our vehicles he had caught two grayling, I caught eight grayling and four trout so I must thank you for this!! And also thank you for any advice you can give on the coiling issue.

I guess it depends on a number of factors including the situation your fishing in . Like all methods it’s not a perfect fix for everything, there’s a chance of lining fish in very skinny water so you’d need to decide if it’s the right method for the particular situation your in . I’ve used it to deadly effect in a lot of fairly thin water situations over the years but generally with light fly lines and a very careful approach. You can also angle slightly across stream and by careful mending manage drift and keep good enough contact .

@@howardcrostonflyfisher9227 Thanks for the reply. I'm going to try it in clear, shallow, smooth water instead of avoiding it. I definitely understand the concept because I started nymph fishing in the 1970s before indicators and euro nymphing were a thing. Some fly line was always on the water, and we would use the end of the fly line as the strike indicator. You have refined that technique with your 3 weight line, sighter, and thinner leader. Thanks again.

Stressing it against a hard edge , nipping it into an “elbow” with a pair of fine nose pliers or boiling / freezing around a former all work . If it starts to straighten in use fretting it with your finger nail can also work .

@@howardcrostonflyfisher9227 thank you Howard , appreciate the reply 👍🏻

0.37 mm

0.37mm but you can vary -thicker floats better .

I grease the tip of the line and the distressed nylon attached to the tip of the line . I don’t add any additional indication- the rest of the leader to the flies is fine - level tippet , any taper interferes with sink rate and take detection.

@@howardcrostonflyfisher9227 Thank you. Had a great Zoom presentation last Sat with one of your comrades. David Arcay. I’ve taken up fly fishing 2 years ago and much to learn.

@Jonathon Roberts don’t fish as heavy a nymph and rely on longer drift window to achieve depth. It works exceptionally well in the right circumstances.

@Jonathon Roberts I’ve answered this previously further down the comments.

@Jonathon Roberts The whole point is that Euro style leaders typically rely on a relatively short drift window to achieve depth , and by default often require a heavier fly to gain that depth and equally a closer approach . Upstream nymph fishing with a long line does not require overly heavy flies as it relays on longer drift window to gain depth . I use relatively light fly lines in the 2# /3# range and occasionally a level nymph line in windless conditions. I won 4 back to back southern rivers qualifiers the first two by a very large margin whilst most struggled fishing European style contact nymphing , mainly due to the fact the overly heavy nymphs used by most where spooking the fish on impact - my long line approach with lighter flies ( sometimes angled slightly across stream ) did not, obviously your free to disagree with my logic however I’m quite happy that it’s a very useful and massively under used technique.

spidx1337 not very well but I wouldn’t use a tippet that long on this set up .

If the water is approx. 4ft deep, slow clear, even, would you use let’s say 12ft long tapered leader and 4ft fine tippet for easier casting, or would you still go with 12ft leveled tippet?

spidx1337 if I was sight nymph fishing in very clear water I would use a tapered leader and a long level tippet . For this style (using the end of the fly line to indicate ) I would use level tippet and no Taper , I can cast accurately enough with level tippet to fish effectively and with practice a very useful side benefit of this set up is that the tippet does not fully turn over giving you a “window” of “free drop” that allows lighter flies to sink quickly before the surface current starts to “pull” the fly line requiring a mend . I also like the angle / hinge created between the fine level tippet and the end of the fly line / coloured indicator as I can use a generally shorter tippet to increase take detection.

Thank you for the answers. Good content, keep it up!