thanks for your demo. I needed to remove some rivets from an appliance and had no idea what a solid rivit might present as, After watching the first part of your video, I understood better what I was dealing with. I got out my drill, a hammer and nail to use as a tapping tool, and I was able to get my rivits out quickly. this 75 year old senior DIY lady is feeling quite accomplished thanks to your video. thank you.

The biggest learning I have had building my RV-10 is to 'learn when to leave well enough alone'. Unless the rivet is part of a critically stressed part or really messed up, I will accept a slightly offset shop head or a small smiley on the rivet head. Often you do more damage trying to drill an akwardly located rivet out.

Great stuff. Pretty much validates what I've learned by trial and error plus a couple extra tips. My request for a future video now that you're done the fuel tank assembly (excellent btw) and rivet removal is advanced riveting techniques. There are TONS of how to rivet but they all show the very basic simplest forms of riveting. We need a video to show how to rivet a hard to reach rivet with different types of rivet sets such as a double offset and some of the techniques used to not completed mess up those tricky to set rivets.

Great Video, learning is a process. Scott spent some time on alignment, but being on center is equally important. For me, I use a smaller bit and only go a few revs and check the center location often, then step up to a larger if the alignment is good. Good vision is an absolute must. Dark hangars or poor near vision is hard to overcome with technique. I like his low rpm and force to keep the process under control. IMO there is no reason everyone can not get a 95% + perfect removal rate.

One tip not mentioned that I have found very useful is after center punching the rivet head, do the initial drilling with a center drill and then switch to a normal drill bit

Great video. The one thing I'd suggest that works well for me is to use a slightly undersized drill bit when drilling to pop off the factory head (ie: a #41 instead of #40, or #31 instead of #30). Then, the pin punch to snap off the head fits tighter and is more likely to work, having less play in the hole.

You have the hands, fingers and nails of an honest mechanic- much respect for you, Sir ♠️

Could you show us how you repaired the divot the pliers made in the surface of the spar stub?

Thanks for sharing this video. It's very helpful for new builders!

Awesome video! Thanks, Scott! I'd really like to see some techniques on removing standard pop rivets as well. I'd rather not remove them, but I have at least one that really needs to come out.

Since I'm just now beginning to rivet nut plates on the wing main spar, I haven't yet had to drill any rivets on it. I've used the reflection technique many times already but never on an anodised surface. The shiny surface substitute idea is great. I'm pretty sure I'll need to use it. Thanks!

Finally a real learning experience. That is: how to fix a messed up attempt at drilling the rivet head. That is more of a learning experience than only how to do the drilling correctly. One addition would be the use of center drills. One extra step, but well worth it. The center drill will not "walk" the same way a regular drill bit does. Some of the rescue techniques that Scott used are "walking" the drill bit back towards the center. If you drill off 'centered' (i.e. not lined up) the bit will walk. (H.F. have these center drills, 3 or 4 in a packet). other wise...Scott: how did you grind that plier? (nice work Scott, thanks)

Scott is a total rockstar when it comes to communicating well honed common wisdom. I wish I discovered him sooner and that he/Vans would create way more quality content. Builders are loyal to the Vans ecosystem for a reason. Greater investment in this sort of stuff GREATLY augments any limitations/deficiencies of plans/documentation/builder ignorance/yada yada. Great to learn or confirm what I've been doing. Note to others, I tend to drill using slightly undersized (approx 41 for 3's and 31 for 4's). Tighter/better fit for punch. Thank you again!

If you use a palm drill it becomes like a extension of your pointer finger and becomes intuition to drill straight. I only use a battery power drill if I am somewhere I don’t have shop air access

These are great videos! Thank you

Great tips. I learned all these tips the hard way.

my guitar case hinges have rivets and I have broken drill bits and whatever you call that punch, they break in half... you can't drill a round surface everything. just slips right off, been working this for weeks now...

I am not a current builder of a vans aircraft but I can see many uses for 3d printed tools to assist with things like drilling rivets and keeping the drill centered as well as so much more. My drag bike build utilized close to 100 printed parts to assist with the build. FYI I am not suggesting installing 3d printed parts to the structure of the aircraft

As a young man i worked in fuselage assembly at gulfstream in Savannah Ga. They taught me about flight line and prop wash. They also taught me that when removing rivets in thick material that if you cool the rivet and the area around the rivet, it makes removal much easier. Ice, dry ice, and freon(i did not say that)causes the rivet to shrink and, counterintuitively, the hole will expand. Just sayin'.

Great video been an A&P since 93, and applied for my DAR-T yesterday. How long did it take you to get approved?

Scott, have you had any issues with chuck wobble in the battery drills? I just bought a new “yellow” brand brushless and the chuck is no where near as straight as the air drill. Any tips? Should I just return it and try a different one?

I am building this same piece right now. My tip on these 470's, it is easier for me at least, to punch and drill out from the back, it is a nice flat surface. I under drill front he back and drill to the correct size from the front. As Flyboy98 stated, if you building your plane to fly and not to win a ribbon, then leave well enough alone when you can. There is more than one rivet holding the plane together. If I have small Mona Lisa smile, I leave it, if it is a Joker smile, its get the drill. Also, If I smile a couple of these in a short period, I usually need a break.

Good video. Except some of us attached our ribs by putting the shop head against the thicker component (the spar) like we were instructed to, and now lack of access to drill the manufactuer head makes these techniques near impossible.

If removing a nut plate rivet, you can grind the mushroomed part with a Dremel. Do not drill, that causes a lot of problems. There is no danger of harming the airplane-the steel of the nut plate is expendable. After removing the mushroom, the rivet pops out easily, with no damage to the structure.

I am presuming that the pliers you are using have been modified. Looks like a pair of 8” side cutters ground to a flush edge. Would someone confirm that please ?

Why do I instinctively want to blow the chips away even when it's only a video?

Interesting that you’d put out this video. Since it looks like I’ll be drilling about 1000 to replace your laser punched ribs. Thanks for that.

Good video but as a semi trailer tech I just Grind the head off and punch it out LOL. But I did learn from this video it I have to be careful in nice trim

I just chisel the head off w a cold chisel sharp

Dead company crawling!