Thank you my friend. The only guy on the Internet with the actual info i was after.

You’re doing the lords work and I thank you!

If you're not going to use the longer batteries and keep the ESC in the original location, I would cut away that "ridge" in the battery tray so that those batteries that you're using would fit perfectly down flat in the tray. That ridge is only really there to accommodate the installation of the brackets for the cross-straps used for the longer ~140mm batteries.

Here's a pretty complete listing of what you get for your extra $50 when you go from the Standard (aka, "Metal") version to the Carbon Fiber version: - Aluminum chassis brace TO---> Carbon fiber chassis brace AND lower-arms' reinforcement inserts (the chassis/deck itself remains aluminum) - 45A ESC TO---> 60A ESC - 28mm dia. 3100kv-2852 motor TO---> 36mm dia. 2650kv-3650 motor - Mount for 28mm motors TO---> Mount for 36mm motors - 16T & 19T pinions TO---> 24T & 27T pinions - 4-ch Tx/Rx, 150m range TO---> 6-ch Tx/Rx, 350m range, w/GYRO & "One-Click Flipping" (Self-Righting) - Sintered metal alloy Spur gear TO---> Chrome Steel Spur gear (CNC) - Straight-cut sintered metal alloy Input & Diff gears TO---> Helical (Spiral-Cut) Chrome Steel Input & Diff gears (CNC) - Black/Green Polycarbonate (PC) body (was PVC) TO---> All Black Polycarbonate (PC) body

The transmitter that comes with it doesn't have expo for the throttle and brakes, and the ESC is not adjustable.. But if you happen to have the CT-8A transmitter, it DOES have exponential for the throttle and brakes. Dialing in some positive expo on the throttle is similar to punch control, and negative expo on the brakes makes it stop much smoother.

If You replace The Shock Screws for stiffer ones, the Bracket could bent more easily. Maybe better to keep the low cost Screw as a sacrificial Part?

I like that you went out and did the upgrades without changing the dynamics of a wonderful truck.. and all I’ve heard everybody do is complain about batteries not fitting. In reality if you just look around there are all sorts of nice 3s batteries that fit. I learn of another one from you. Great review, breakdown,and upgrade of this bad ass truck!

A great battery to use in the Terminator is something like this high-density, 'shorty' LiHV one used mostly in crawlers, GENS Ace 60C, 4300mah (90x42x30). A good way to secure it without any modifications is to put it on its SIDE (it's 30mm wide), held down using the included brackets and additional straps as cross-straps. No need to relocate the ESC either since this battery is only ~90mm long. Putting a 20mm piece of foam or something in front of the battery would not only ensure stability but put as much weight towards the back of the RC as possible. However, if you don't ever plan on relocating the ESC to allow using ~140mm, or so, long batteries, the best option, as I did, is shaving/cutting off the bottom inside-left ridge of the battery tray, which is only there to allow the loops/brackets to be installed for the cross-straps anyway, so that now, ~42mm wide batteries can easily lay PERFECTLY flat in that battery tray, and can still use the original, single strap. I'm not a big fan of the higher center of gravity (CG) created when placing batteries on their sides. You can also use the included ~6mm wide foam along the inside left to stabilize the battery even further once that ridge is removed. I should also add that this particular battery is a high voltage battery (LiHV). You can charge it to a regular Lipo voltage of ~12.6V, OR if you have a charger that can also charge LiHV, it can be safely charged to ~13V to give it that little extra punch! Yes, it indeed goes to 11.... ;)

Resolving some of the issues with the 6-ch Transmitter(Tx) that comes with the 'Carbon' version. 1) If you see a padlock icon on your screen. (with sometimes also having a flashing screen as well as beeping) - Turn the Transmitter OFF. - Press and hold the Fwd/Rev Button (bottom RIGHT) and then LONG-press (until the screen appears) the Power ON Button at the same time. 2) If you inadvertently mixed channels 1&2 together (e.g. throttle also works while steering) or channels 5&6 together. - Toggle through the mixing options by Long-pressing (until it beeps) the Mixing Button (bottom LEFT) UNTIL you NO longer see either a ① and/or a ② symbol(s) next to the mixing icon on the bottom RIGHT of the screen.

Lubes/Oils from the factory: Shock Oil: Front & Rear = 40wt (500cst) ---> Diff Oil: Front & Rear = 20K wt, Center = 60K wt The only thing I would change at the top is the center diff to something from about 100K (low to mid traction) to maybe 150K max for mostly higher traction surfaces..... I ended-up using 125K myself.😀 Then again, I may try going down to 30wt in the shocks all-around or maybe just in the front, still contemplating..... I know this about the spring preloads. Very little if any at all in the front and about 3/8" to 1/2" in the rear, try it!

Just started in the hobby with my son he picked up a 1/14 that’s pretty quick and I picked up this Omni and I enjoy it a lot! It rips. Maybe it’s cause I’m a noob but it’s awesome!

Heck yeah bro, I found some Zeee batteries 4500 3s that fit but I’m ordering some of those beasts you have!!

They have a straight locked/direct central gear. I guess if you want pure power over using real thick diff oil.

Got mine today!

Gens Ace 4300 mAh 50C will fit also stock mounting.

What is the actual size of the stock battery? I was going to try and find a 3000mah the same size so I wouldn’t have to move the esc. Their website doesn’t show or even offer the stock battery

Space and battery size were well known prior to units shipping. I ordered a HW 10BL 120 combo with mine but after a short drive on Tuesday I'm not sure I'll change the stock stuff. I did notice the brakes work really well. It's gonna get a proper bash today. I'm anticipating up be using those shock standoffs i ordered with it when the day is over. My biggest gripe so far is the body is really thin and almost had a hole in the tailgate after a quick drive on grass. Also it is a heavy gal. Everyone who's saw it has remarked on how surprised they are at its heft.

Thanks for going into details for us! So ive been wondering, what length are those shock mounting screws? And the standoffs? Ive also been planning to order Ti bolts, they're probably better than chinese steel because the ti is an actual formulated alloy. Doesnt even have to be the best ti 😂

Hi mate I've been looking though the book I couldn't find the servo mount your talking about. I've got a castle mamba pro x and that will take 4s easy. I can't use the gyro because the front wheels starts shaking crazy. Great video mate 👍 😅

Great video man thank you!! How do you feel about the dif, and gearing quality? I've heard of other Rlaarlo cars that have cheap metal, thoughts? Ty!!!!

The best would be the 6200 2s? Price 40 euros

I know some will disagree greatly, but my experience is that any money spent on the electronics on this 'carbon' version could NOT be a bigger waste. It weights less than 5lbs RTR! A 3650 motor with 60A available is so much more than enough for this little thing!!! You WILL need a better battery though, the free one isn't that great and nowhere near 25C. The most it can deliver is ~40A and not for very long. If you get yourself a 30T pinion, it'll hit 50mph, a 33T or 35T may get you to an insane 60mph but something this light in a monster truck config is insanely unstable at that latter speed! I stuck with the 30T and I still have plenty of lower-end torque.

Whats the size of the pinion? I mean soecs not teeth count. The rlaarlo indicates M1 5mm, thats wrong...

How long did it take you to receive the truck?

My ESC just glitches throttle and runs away😢

Can you give me measurements of these screws on shocks stands please? I'm waiting for my terminator from FEB20, and its still nowhere to be found. I have tracking number since 1.4, but its still showing Tracking not yet available :/. It will help me a lot. At least i can order upgraded screws. I already got hobbywing 10BL120 as and esc upgrade, and i will run that MF on 4s :D

GYRO complete and ACCURATE instructions for the 6-ch Tx/Rx that comes with the 'Carbon' version. Firstly, it's assumed that the Transmitter(Tx) and Receiver(Rx) are already bound to each other, and both powered ON, thus there's NO need to even open the Receiver(Rx) box at all. 1) Turn OFF the Transmitter, and keep the truck powered ON. With the Transmitter OFF, press and hold the SWA (ch3) button, and then long-press the power ON button at the same time. --->Transmitter(Tx) will now be in the Gyroscope setting mode. Mixing Button (bottom LEFT on Tx): This turns the Gyro On/Off. --->When the upper right corner of the screen shows a 'signal' symbol (e.g. cell tower symbol), the Gyroscope in ON, otherwise it's OFF. ALSO: The Forward/Reverse Button (bottom RIGHT on Tx): This alters the directional effect of the Gyroscope. ---> The ◥ symbol on the screen means 'normal' operation. I.E., if vehicle fishtails to the Right, gyro steers to the Right. (Make SURE this is selected!) ---> The ◣ symbol on the screen means 'reverse' operation. (NEVER select that!) IMPORTANT: This following is correct and confirmed, but often cited incorrectly! Left Steering Dual-rate Knob (below the ch5 button): Adjusts the Gyroscope's 'Sensitivity' aka 'Reaction Time'. (top number on the screen) Right Throttle Dual-rate Knob (below the ch6 button): Adjusts the Gyroscope's 'Intervening Travel Ratio' aka 'Amount of Reaction'. (bottom number on the screen) Once finished adjusting the settings, Long-press the SWA (ch3) button and it will be saved. (2 beeps) DONE! (so there's NO need to power off, and then back on, anything!) LASTLY, very IMPORTANT x2: Return the Steering (endpoints s/b at least ~75%) and Throttle (@100% of course) dual-rate Knobs to your chosen, normal operating positions.

You can link to the battery model that is?

Having hard time finding a large hard case battery that fits (140mm,30mm,45 mm)

OMG...Your killing me with the video. Your so tech advanced with the RC but you can't do better with the video? Please... the info is great but so hard to watch.. maybe a basic gopro with image stabilization as an idea?

Too bad all you guys block the use of Links in these comments. Makes it tough to really help each other out................🧐

Sorry, one more. If you’re going to jump your truck and bash it you should expect to have to upgrade a couple things… stand offs are cheap… and if you drive it like a human, nothing will break on this well engineered vehicle bro… in my opinion

This company is a joke, they wouldn't let me cancel my order and won't reply to my emails for a refund return. Ended up going through my credit card.

😻 *promosm*

You talk soooo slow I had to watch at 2x speed and you are just barley normal speed then DANG DUDE!!!!

The transmitter that comes with it doesn't have expo for the throttle and brakes, and the ESC is not adjustable.. But if you happen to have the CT-8A transmitter, it DOES have exponential for the throttle and brakes. Dialing in some positive expo on the throttle is similar to punch control, and negative expo on the brakes makes it stop much smoother.