Thanks again for this video, I watch it once each year when I do this job!

2:00 record previous settings 2:40 back off preload adjuster and remove bottom lock ring & spring 3:38 depressurize reservoir 4:40 remove bottom cap 5:14 depress sealhead and remove lock ring 6:00 pull out shock shaft, dump oil 6:50 remove reservoir with heat gun + strap wrench 7:40 remove nut and shock stack, clean and inspect 9:15 replace bumper, cap, topout spring, seal head, shim stack+piston 10:50 retaining nut w loctite, 29.5 ft lb 11:38 replace reservoir w red loctite using strap wrench 12:15 pre-fill part way w shock oil 12:44 replace bladder 13:36 install bladder retaining clip and pull bladder up to clip 14:08 pour oil into shock body, insert shock stack, pump out air bubbles 15:15 top off oil, press in seal head, install retainer ring 16:03 extend shock, tap in bottom cap 16:29 turn right-side up with bleed bolt at high point; open bleed bolt 18:12 install schrader valve in bladder, install valve cap, clean oil off shock 18:49 fill w nitrogen, test full self-extension without spring 19:20 replace washer on preload adjuster, spring, washer, spring retainer, retaining clip 20:00 restore preload, compression & rebound settings

What an awesome video! Thanks for sharing it!!

Thanks for sharing these videos, I learned how to do my Yamaha Honda and now the KTM

Hi rocky mount atv I have a question. I have the stock suspension on my rm85 and I rebuilt it by filling the Reservoirs with oil then putting in the bladder is in the shock shaft. I did it and I either got air in it or not enough oil. When I took it for a ride the bladder when into the reservoir further then the c clip. Can I rebuild it the showa way? I feel like that would be easier. Thanks

Is this the same bleed procedure for the 50sx shock?

what pressure do you set the nitrogen fill for the bladder?

best review

mine is a little bit leaking, is there any way to stop the leaking without opening the whole thing or paying much? its on a 2016 te 250 with 50 hours. Is this normal for 50 hours or should i be worried?

Could you please share a link for the shrader valve?

Do i need to remove the gas when i want only to replace sealing ? My shock just has got spilled out, and i want to fix it.

Hello, I have a question. What would happen if i put normal Air in the container. Air conists to 80% out of nitrogen so i'm asking myself if it would be possible.

Is this the same for a '13 150xc ?

Sto riportando alle tarature stock un monoammortizzatore di un ktm sx 2014, era stato modificato per uso freestyle, mi sapreste dare le misure delle lamelle? Di tutta la piramide, in compressione e ritorno Grazie Sx 250 2014 eu

Where did you get the tool to remove the bladder

What’s the point of removing the reservoir ? You are just replacing it with the race tech bladder?

If you happened to have air left in the shock how would you tell. Would you be able to tell when you compress the shaft after the nitrogen charge?

Never mind you are installing new reservoir , I missed that part

Is the bleeding process the same with the standard reservoir?

Does Rocky Mountain sell the service manuals for ktm/husky’s I’ve been trying to fine em? Thanks!

If i don't have the possibility for nitrogen i can put simply air like in the front suspension?

Hello! Thx for sharing these really good videos! I have a question Is it possible to use your Bleeding method without the bladder kit? Does it works anyway bleeding all the air out?

How long would you think it would take if you have all the tools and replacement parts from disassembly to assembly with someone that knows what they’re doing compared to someone doing it for the first time?

Quick question, I'm planning on just changing the oil, so do I need to take the nitrogen filled peice all the way out? or can I just drain it from the high speed compression bolt by removing it, and fill it back up, pump it for air bubbles, etc? Thank you!

Would a PDS shock be much different? I bought the bladder from RMATV and followed these instructions on my 300XC (linkage), so now thinking about doing my 500 EXC (pds).

Why use a bladder vs the OEM piston?

Do you have to use nitrogen? Can you use a plain old air compressor?

How much nitrogen di i need

Why wouldn't pressurize the bladder with a small amount of air during the bleeding process? That's how wp forks work.

How much nitrogen did u put n it?

WP shock rebuild and gold valve install cheat sheet Disassembly 1. Record shock settings (turn clockwise) a. Spring length: mm b. Low speed compression: clicks c. Rebound: clicks d. High speed compression: turns 2. Back up all clickers and HS compression (turn counter clockwise) 3. Remove spring from shock (KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER!!) a. Loosen Allen bolt securing the preload adjuster ring b. Turn preload adjuster all the way out, loosening up the spring c. Move spring stopper up d. Remove lock ring (clip) e. Take off spring stopper, washers, spring, top washer 4. Slowly remove reservoir spring a. Release nitrogen from reservoir little by little b. Remove bolt and O-ring 5. Clean shock 6. Remove shock cap a. hammer down against holes using a punch b. secure cap against shock shaft with zip-tie 7. Clean up all sand and dirt 8. Press seal head down into the shock 9. Locate retaining clip for shock seal 10. Remove clip 11. Clean again 12. Remove shock shaft a. Place oil drain pan under vise and shock b. Slowly work the shaft up and out of the body c. Shock oil might spill d. Continue to work it out slowly e. Place shock shaft aside 13. Drain shock body off oil 14. Clean oil residue from shock body and especially the reservoir 15. Remove stickers from reservoir 16. Use heat gun to heat up threads of the reservoir a. Loosen up Loctite on threads 17. Use strap wrench to loosen up reservoir a. Apply more heat if it won’t come off b. Don’t melt it! 18. Place shock body aside 19. Put shock shaft back into vise a. Remove nut (19mm socket) b. Remove shim stack and piston i. KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER!!! ii. Use screw driver (or any stick like object) to keep everything in order c. Remove oil seal and small spring d. Remove zip tie e. Remove shock shaft cap f. Remove rubber bumper g. Clean and inspect shock shaft i. Spray out holes h. Clean other parts for reuse i. Replace worn out parts Assembly 1. Put shock shaft into vise a. Threads facing up 2. Install rubber bumper 3. Install cap a. Notice correct orientation 4. Remove top out spring from old oil seal a. Clean spring 5. Grease new seal head inside and outside 6. Install top out spring into new seal head 7. Slide seal bullet onto shock shaft 8. Coat seal bullet and shock shaft with shock oil 9. Install new seal head and spring a. Slowly work it down b. Spring facing up 10. Reinstall shim stack and piston a. Make sure all the little shims are seated correctly 11. Apply Loctite to top nut 12. Slightly tighten nut 13. Remove excess Loctite, if any 14. Torque nut to 29.5 foot pounds 15. Place shock shaft aside 16. Put shock body into vise 17. Thoroughly clean reservoir threads of any oil and dirt 18. Apply grease to bottom O-ring 19. Apply Loctite to reservoir threads 20. Install reservoir a. Tighten with strap wrench b. Remove excess Loctite, if any 21. Fill some shock oil into main body a. See the oil fill the reservoir b. Tap on top of shock body with flat hand to push air out of holes 22. Fill reservoir half way with shock oil 23. Remove cap and Schrader valve from bladder 24. Grease bladder O-ring 25. Apply shock oil to bladder body 26. Install bladder into reservoir a. Oil MUST overflow from reservoir b. Seal might be hard to push down into reservoir c. Push it down far enough to reveal retaining clip groove 27. Install retaining clip a. Make sure it is completely seated 28. Pull bladder cap up to seat against the retaining clip a. Use suspension pump or special tool 29. Fill shock body with shock oil a. Half ways, or a little more 30. Put shock shaft into shock body a. Oil MUST overflow b. Slowly work it down into the shock body c. Pump shock shaft up and down i. Until no more air bubble are coming up ii. Make sure piston and shim stack is always submerged in oil iii. Refill oil as needed iv. Quickly press the shaft into the body to release more air d. Top off shock body with shock oil e. Push shock shaft down into shock body to install oil seal head i. Push down far enough to reveal stopper ring groove f. Install stopper ring i. Make sure it sits right g. Pull up shaft to extend it all the way h. Clean oil from shaft and body i. Install cap using a rubber mallet 31. Realign shock in vise so that bleeder screw on reservoir is the highest point a. Make sure shaft is extended all the way b. Make sure Schrader valve is out of the bladder 32. Loosen up and remove bleeder bolt a. Excess oil and air bubbles will come out 33. Reinstall bleeder bolt a. Make sure O-ring stays in place 34. Reinstall Schrader valve and cap 35. Clean shock from oil 36. Fill with nitrogen a. Test that the shaft extends all the way on its own b. Test valving works correctly c. If any issues, air might still be in the system i. Disassemble shock ii. Repeat steps from step 21 on 37. Put shock upside down into vise 38. Install top washer 39. Reinstall spring 40. Install bottom washer 41. Install spring retainer 42. Install retaining clip 43. Adjust spring pre-load to recorded level a. Measure spring length 44. Tighten adjuster lock ring 45. Set rebound and compression settings to recorded positions a. Turn all the way clockwise b. Then count the clicks turning counter clockwise

What tool are you using to remove the retaining clip @5:31? Do you have it for sale?

How much nitrogen

265 mm? why?

man he made a huge mess lol

waste too much of oil ,just just for the bleeding process