thank you, and thank you for watching

and yes, I must agree, it is a really nice bond and which is rarely seen.

Тваю мать. а ведра где?.у нас так не прокатит.раствор в жару высохнет.

@@genabektaev7586 приветствую! а за сколько времени раствор может высохнуть на жаре? Тут человек на видео свободно кладет со скоростью 180 кирпичей в час. Возможно раствор просто не успевает высыхать, с пластификатором и ламинированной фанерой.

that was a lovely comment, thank you

thank you

rob songer where are you based? What areas do you cover? I’m a carpenter joiner specialise in timber framing, windows, doors gates and work on heritage buildings, a quality bricklayer that understands only buildings and lime is something I’m lacking in my phone book.

Hi Adam, I'm in Suffolk. Thank you for watching and commenting. At the moment we see a possible 4-5 years work ahead or us, all good heritage work on beautiful old buildings with great, skilled guys to work with.

rob songer good man that’s what I like to hear. I’m booked 6months ahead now. Glad your busy you deserve to be. Tell your not an average Jo bricke you don’t throw muck everywhere

thank you Norman, its always good to get a nice comment. you made me smile about the brick stacks....thats how I would stack my bricks in college when I was a student, and I am so impressed by you. You are the only person to ever notice it.

very nice, and very rare

God you're one pain in the hole backwards forwards all the the same to a real mason

Monk bond is header course on top of a header course quarter bond etc

The only way is up .........Oh baby just you and me .....

@@jimdoc6102 have to lay frog up now to comply with building regs ...

yes I agree, I can't think why this isn't used more

It's not used as much now because it has been proven to not be as strong a bond. Always should be half bond for overlap and strength, not quarter bond.

it would vary considerably according to the nature of the work because we would generally have small additions in the work such as the things you mention, so I would expect to lay a minimum of 400-500 in a day, if though it was straight work such as along retaining wall I would expect to be laying around 700 in a day

by the way, the style of jointing plays a major part in the amount laid, for instance Penny-Roll or Heritage jointing takes a lot longer than the standard half round or flush joint, and its the jointing that makes the brickwork. (there will be a video demonstrating around 10 Jointing styles coming soon)

Not a lot 😂😂 he's ok laying a couple hundred because he's a jobber. Would be screwed if he went on price work.

Hi Mark, the mortar is bagged and already mixed with appropriate sand, we add chalk dust to a 15:1 ratio. the bricks are new imperial soft reds and are very absorbent but this time of year they don't require wetting. yes, the jointing is a flush finish and the steel straps are to anchor the oak sole plate for the oak framing. and so far, no injuries on the holding down straps during the making of this film...

Where did the ready mixed lime come from? Do you know a good company in Suffolk?

yes, Anglia Lime Company near Sudbury

100 course high? I would use a line on each corner (see the video - Octagonal Chimney Stacks')

rob songer so you would drop four lines plum and buildleads all the way up

What are all the wallplate straps for?

bric bybrick I'm from Wales and find long spreads better, but it depends on absorption of brick and weather ect just a matter of opinion.

Mervyn Davies kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z9hiY8Kltd_Un2w.html the reason the mainland European Brick layers spread for one brick at a time is because they reckon its the fastest method . Have a look at this Dutch video . Notice they don’t perp the brick before they lay it , the don’t furrow or otherwise spread the mortar . The brick they are using Is 50 mm high compared to our 65 mm which makes it easier to push some of the bed joint forward to form the perp. Also they mostly use a 1 cement 6 sand mix and rake the joints back as they go and then specialist brick pointers follow on and repoint every thing with a 1 cement 3 sand mix . They use small Arnhem pattern trowels that range in size from 140mm to around 240mm and they work from tubs which allows them to scoop the mortar up quicker. I’ll post a link to another vide that shows the pointing of the work.

Mervyn Davies kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l76Ymbar2Z65e2g.html here’s one showing there pointing methods .notice the stuff is mixed fairly dry (prevents staining of the brick and I think the old adage the more water in the mix the weaker the mix ,comes into play as well)

bric bybrick Nice video good bricklayers and I'm not critical of their method, but after 44 years in this game a bit old to change now.

Mervyn Davies I know what you mean Mervyn, but it is nice to see the techniques other bricklayers use. I think the optimum way to execute this technique is to work out of those mortar tubs ( I find it’s just not as fast when you work from a board) and to use a smaller trowel also you need to practice placing the mortar in such a way that you don’t have to furrow it . If you study robs technique he spends as much time spreading the mortar as he does laying the brick .

Hi Dave, please watch Bonding Lesson 5 - Various Bonds, it explains most of the bonds with sketches and examples. thank you for watching.

i know what the bonds are, i used to do it for a living you do a neat job hope it encourages youngsters into trade

yes, thank you David, its the main reason I do this, to try and give some the desire to keep quality and realise whatever they build will be there longer than they will be here...so leave a job to be proud of.

Hi Asa, the straps were to hold down the oak base plate that the timber frame sat on. thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.

AH thanks for the replies ,Your a dying breed Rob its artwork you produce not brickwork

There ate 3 rules 1. Whole bond (stretcher both ends) 2. Reverse bond (stretcher & header) 3. Broken bond, as a last resort Please watch my bonding videos, this is explained in detail. Playlist- Bonding 1-15

Flush pointed and stiff brush to expose the aggregate. Monk bond is really good, I loved doing it. But dark blue diaper is also good. Why not do both? Monk bond throughout with diaper on the gable perhaps

Hi Hans, 3/4's can be used instead of the stretcher to eliminate the closure, Please watch the Bonding Lessons Playlist, that may help you as well. Thank you so much for watching.

Lovely comment, thank you

Only time it matters is if your working with someone who is left handed

As a left handed trowel always worked my hand, so on a long pull face the other trowel for banter. Can go either. Face to face is always preferable! Left hookers are always spoilt on that front....Never did Monk, a fair bit of Rat Trap...and snap header 4" Flemish....

Hydraulic lime was used to remain in keeping with the rest of the existing buildings that were part of the complex...

@@robsonger1 Must be an old complex? They look like nice bricks ... Are they imperial?

Yes, they are imperial and are used on most of the surrounding buildings to match as closely as possible what is already there

@@robsonger1 I think Ive used them before, they're called caversham or cavendish or something like that?. I found them very dry compared to other red rubber type bricks and the beds dried fast. You made it look easy especially since you used a lime mortar, Thanks for your time mate.

Looks like Hitachi

Allow me to correct you, bricks should never be laid frog down. It defeats the main purpose of a frog which is to key the bricks to each other. One example I can give is a few years ago I had to pin up the side of a house with acrows and needles so that we could insert a steel beam. as I was cutting the needles through I noticed that all the surrounding brickwork was being shaken loose, as a few bricks fell it was plain to see that the wall was built frog down and there was no mortar in the frogs, so the wall lacked the strength it normally would have. When people say that if you lay a fuller bed and that will fill the frog, how can you check? and will one bricklayer be as thorough as another? the pockets left with a partially full frog will collect moisture and as this freezes, in time the brick could begin to show signs of breaking down due to frost damage. I hope that explains it a bit better.

@@robsonger1 i'm from Belgium. i guess we have different techniques and all. but its just we had this discussion on my job i'm a work planner/calculator in construction company. even after consulting engineers, architects and the producent of the bricks they all advised us to lay it frog down. thats what made me wonder. the producent said it should should be frog down for a better solid wall, with taking in consideration. water absorption and freezing tempatures. it's one of the many interesting topics i noticed in the video. differences in working styles and equipment.

So Confused not that I’ve seen, i have seen it in a few places, mostly older buildings or around older buildings

JimJam 515 what would a wood butcher know

m. m my friend I think you should go back and read my comment again ( and my other comments and reply’s to comments on this video) also have a look at the links I left to European pick and dip videos on KZfaq among my comments to this video) and hopefully you will come up with the correct conclusion this time ,that I am pro pick and dip not anti. Rob places his bed of mortar for the single brick then wastes time furrowing it instead of just laying the brick straight into it .also when he commences laying a course he approaches the wall with just mortar no brick in hand again that wastes time . Robs version of pick and dip may be faster than some long bed layers but is slower than the European pick and dippers I have seen on KZfaq.

m. m also when I spoke of minimal amounts of excess mortar squeezing out of the brick I referred to the back of the brick. One of the problems with laying into unfurrowed mortar is you may get excess mortar going into the cavity but with practice this can be avoided . If you raise the face side of the brick when laying and drop the back it will cause most of the excess to squeeze out the front . And your correct if you have very little excess mortar squeezing out it’s a sign that you may have left voids in the bed joint which is exactly the point I made to rob .if you watch the video again he has a furrow in the mortar and minimal amounts of excess come back out onto the trowel which leads me to suspect that there is voids left in the bed . Nice .to see you agree with me on that one. You are of course correct rob is an excellent bricklayer .

m. m I think you do need to go back and read my comment again because you definitely did not get it the first time .if you had got it the first time you would not have opened up your reply to me with ( ever tried the pick and dip? Although it seems slower it is not.) and also you compared me to some guy that was laughing up your back about you using the pick and dip technique remember him the guy you won the 200 notes off .The fact that rob is filling up the frog when he lays down his mortar has nothing what so ever got to do with him leaving or not leaving a void In the bed joint . You do realize if your laying solid brick or block it’s possible to leave voids in the bed. As for the brick with the holes in them all any brick layer can do with them is make sure he puts a full bed under them up to at least the under side of the holes job done .it’s up to the manufacture or designers of those brick to answer for any faults that the holes might create.the most important thing with the perp joint is that its full wither that’s by buttering in hand or buttering the laid brick or using the push joint. You are correct if you take to big of a trowel full and just plop it down you get to much excess coming out and that may stain the face of the brick in the murerne video the guy on the left is putting down enough muck to lay 2 bricks he could halve the amount of mortar he picks up each time. In the Dutch video these guys are rolling out the mortar along the wall with there trowels . The video clearly demonstrate that done correctly furrowing mortar is not required and is in fact a waste of time . Look at robs video running in 2 ( I think it was ) he places the mortar down well enough that he could set the brick straight into it with out the need for furrowing .

m. m the main thrust of my argument is, in the same way that rob figured out for himself that laying long beds is a slower technique he should consider that furrowing mortar is also slowing him down. In my opinion he should put in a bit of practice trying to come up with a method of laying on the mortar that he is comfortable with that does not involve furrowing mortar.

m. m kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z9hiY8Kltd_Un2w.html here’s the Dutch video again . Mortar rolled of the trowel no furrowing or playing around with the mortar required . Brick laid , excess mortar cut of with one movement job done .

I have probably 2 more videos to do, then I will upload my practical lessons thank you for watching.

Great. Look forward to them. Learned a great deal from you already. Many thanks.

Don't worry Juan, there's enough laid to keep everyone happy and my money is ok.

I teach brickwork at my local college and use Rob's videos often to give a visual account of what I'm teaching. A 1st class resource

davedavids wit Lol he’s slow as fuck run the full bed out rather than a brick at a time

+Craig Greenwood thats how bricks should be laid.. full beds full perps. no mortar wastage or muck down the cavity. anyone can slash. its called doing it properly.

davedavids yeah mabe ur own job own pace always full length of wall i think it takes longer

+Craig Greenwood no doubt full length wall bed spread is quicker.. but i would say this technique is what we should be showing apprentices as the best way to lay bricks properly. not the quickest way

it's NHL 3.5 dry ready mixed mortar

We were shown to roll mortar as students and we were told it was to fluff it up. However, with the plasticisers and better washed sands....plus the crazy prices to earn money, the brickies nowadays just want to lay. My main gripe is mortar being flicked back to the board....

Hi Stephen, it was a premixed NHL 3.5 with added chalk dust (15:1)

that would never happen, I'd never work for you in the first place...

Yes I agree, there are 2 types of bond as you correctly say, but there are several variations. Please watch my video, Bonding Lesson 5 - Various Bonds

Not so!..... he could do it himself! I've worked all these bonds in the past but all are essentially 1/4 bond, modern half bond is obviously stronger.

Its all in the technique. If you watch it again I'm sure i give an example of how many this method can lay in a day. I've worked alongside loads of slashers a few years ago and I keep up with them like this. I think Charlie Collison is probably the best out there at the moment

John Smith kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r9ahZduLvp2ViXk.html here’s a German guy doing a pick and dip method with clay block . Very efficient method that’s made easier if the units your laying are one handable .

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q9anjbqfnZrRg4k.html here’s some Danish brickys using the same method . As you can see by the time brickys using the long bed method have spread and furrowed the mortar for say ten brick these guys would have the ten brick laid .

bric bybrick. Good technique. Maybe buttering the perp of the brick that has been laid with the excess mortar would save time filling them in when jointing up?

bric bybrick. Am sure those Dutch brick are a thinner gauge that 65mm. Probably makes it easier to scoop a full cross joint from the bed.

John Smith kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y6eXaMdeubKtn3k.html hi John here’s one from a trade school and the lad clip joints the face side of the brick with the excess to ensure its full and the push technique then completes the job.

oldmanfromyork have a look at the links to some videos of pick and dip style bricklayers that I left in my comment on this video and also some links I left in reply to John smith on this video.

your comment made me smile, thank you

Paul Wilson. Why do you feel the need to be critical?

I will take slow and good any day.

Please, make a list

well, I won 3 bricklayer of the year awards during my apprenticeship which included a regional East of England winner and a silver trowel, then I won 2 craftsmanship awards for work on 2 churches....only been out of work for 2 days during 37 years of work, so I guess I'm happy with my bad habits thank you for watching

Well, the profiles are too short and not clamped in two places. Manually chasing out your bond. Not spreading a long enough bed,taking forever to butter a brick. But the main thing is you are continually hitting the line with the trowel then depressing it with your thumb when you lay the brick and you are slow. You should be double that speed at least on a creamy wall like that. Otherwise, good job.

Please read my previous reply. thank you.

You can butter my wall with those bad habits. Quality work all round

please watch the video "Bonding Lesson 5 - Various Bonds" and this will explain this bond to you. thank you for watching.

rob songer rubbish

thank you very much

This is Monk bond super bricky

youve just mugged yourself off