Thanks for the tips :)

I agree with the higher dilutions and longer times. The D76/D96 'fine' grain just looks lumpy and fuzzy to me in my Minox and 16mm cameras. And I can do other things while stand/semi-stand development. Terry

Thanks Lau!

Thanks Sina!

Thanks for the comment Lloyd, always enjoy your input.

@@AzrielKnight Nice of you to say sir, stay safe :)

I've read that, and also heard of D76R which is a slightly different formula. Can you provide links to back up your numbers, I'd be curious to look into it.

@@AzrielKnight It seems I was mistaken on the D76 front. There used to be a dedicated D76 replenisher(D76-R), but Kodak no longer makes it. I've always used XTOL and had been told D76 was the same process, I guess they were wrong. The little Googling I did seems to point people over to XTOL that where doing replenished D76. As far as my numbers for XTOL, in the US a 5L mix of Xtol is $12. This mix would give about 72 rounds of replenishment, so 72 rolls. Which comes out to a little over 16¢/roll. Theres a bit in tech sheet J-109 about XTOL replenishment, bottom of pg 4 imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/uat/files/wysiwyg/pro/chemistry/J-109_Feb_2018.pdf A conversation about the XTOL replenishment process on Photrio www.photrio.com/forum/threads/replenishing-xtol-developer.17903/

That really sucks Toni.

Agreed!

lol, priorities.

Thanks for the comment :)

Converting your numbers so it's all in CAD Kodak D76, 1 G/3.8l = $12.44 vs. $13 Cinestill D96 1l = $7.49. Not sure what brand D96 you used/have available in Canada, $10CAD Rodinal: Adox Adonal $14.37vs. $24.87CAD As I mentioned you'll find a better deal the more you shop. to be fair you didn't account for shipping from cinestill, which would shoot that price over $10 in most cases, depending on how much you order. I also wish it came in 120 :)

@@AzrielKnight I usually fill up my orders from B&H with film to achieve free shipping. ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

Based on experiments I have done in the past, continuous agitation would give higher contrast. Beyond that I am not sure.

Thanks Don!

Sorry, I've usually ended up with extra chems at the end myself. Closest I come is D76, developing stock. I develop between 4 to 6 rolls of film per month. I've never mixed my own chems, so I can't help you there.

you're welcome :)

I have never used a monobath but would like to.

@@AzrielKnight have heard good things about df96 get supposedly 16 films out of it.

lol, yup, it all comes down to taste :)

I've heard people measuring out their D76 or whatnot but the issue is the chems are "loose" it's not just a bag of D76 for example, if that makes sense, so you may end up with lopsided proportions.

I personally would recommend that rather than you trying to measure out smaller proportions of a bag of D76, mix up the gallon at once but pour it into four 1quart bottles. If your using plastic bottles, squeeze them until the liquid comes to the very top, and them cap it. Keep the other three in a cool place and then work with the other quart. You’ll get more life from that. If all you want is 1qt at a time, why not find the recipe, buy the bulk chemicals, and measure out the right amount for 1qt.

@@donaldjr1969 That is a very interesting idea. Fun homework ahead!

I'm not sure Shane, that is a good question. Someone else mentioned it was done in constant agitation which would be a higher contrast image.

I've considered it but taking my time into account it's not cheaper, for me.

Yes!

I will def get around to it, I've heard good things.

@@AzrielKnight The 100 version has similar tone with a slightly finer grain, but I prefer the 200 contrasti

@@8andre3 Fomapan 100 and 200 are radically different type of films, the difference is absolutely not just one stop ISO :)

@@markuslarjomaa3122 I shot 1 roll of Foma 100 and had really similar results when compared to the 200. Both developed at Rodinal, both shot in a sunny day

Possibly, but many people don't account for their time, which to me is more valuable.

Not sure, actually. But I wouldn't be surprised.

No. D76 was formulated for movie films first, D96 didn't appear until a few years later. The problem with D76 is that it becomes more active over time and it has a tendency to blow highlights. D96 is a lower contrast version of D76 that doesn't increase in activity over time that is designed to be used in large movie film processors that use constant agitation. Using it in small tanks without constant agitation will not give the best results. When movie film is shot and developed the requirement is for a negative that can be copied to produce a positive. When you copy a negative onto another film the contast level always be slightly higher, so a lower contrast original is preferred. Remember also that movie film is designed to be copied onto another film to make a positive and that positive frame size, for normal widescreen aspect ratio 2.35:1, is only 0.866 inches x 0.732 inches. This is then projected onto a screen over a thousand times bigger. If you project a single frame that size obviously the film grain would be very visible, but because movie flm is projected at 24 frames per second the grain becomes almost invisible because the movement of the image smooths out the grain.