How do you get it to recognize when to change mode for battery and plugged in my always defaults to performance and I have to manually change it to manual and then choose the wattage even though I have a 18 watt and 25 watt saved profile.

@@noifwoao You'll want to unplug it, then set all 3 sliders to manual mode @ 18 watts. Then plug it in, and set them to 25 watts. It's saving the profiles independently. If you've done that, then the issue is it will save watt settings on a per game basis. So if you've set it to performance in a certain game, it'll automatically go to performance when you launch that game. Hover over one of the games you have in the Armoury Crate launcher and press the "X" button for "Game Profile". Then go down to "Configuration" on the left hand side. You'll see the "Operating mode AC" which is plugged in mode and the "Operating mode DC" which is unplugged. You can set them in there. They should save however after changing it in a game though. I really don't like how Asus has set this up, because I'm not seeing a way to set the profile across all games. I might end up doing a video on it, as from what I can tell the controller profiles are doing the same thing, with no way to set it "globally" for games you've previously opened and changed the settings. Hope this helps, let me know if you run into any issues.

@@noifwoao That is really strange! I'm not sure what would be causing that. Make sure you don't have a game open when you set the power to manual (on both plugged in an unplugged). Also, try going to "Content" at the top and then clicking "Update Center" and see if there are any updates for Armoury Crate. It's possible you might be on an older version of Armoury Crate, let me know what you find :)

Figured it out for some reason it wasn't recognizing my charger as compatible even though I had it plugged into the charger that came with it so I moved it to a different plug on my power strip and now it works thank you.

Also after you get those set if you plug in an incompatible charger and unplug that charger it messes the settings all up and won't go back to the battery settings and stick with last known until you plug in a compatible charger or restart the Ally. Maybe a bug or windows thing or they just didn't program it to operate correctly with a charger below 65 watts correctly.

Hey, just so you know I just had to return mine because the SD Card Reader stopped working. I have a whole video I just released about it, where I go through and test it. I'm going to hold off on the exchange till I hear what Asus says about the SD Card issues. With my testing I suspect it's heat that could have caused it, just like you said, it boost way to high and way too hot. What's annoying is I think Asus put the boost in there for benchmarks so it appears more powerful... Frustrating for sure.

No update can fix the location of the sd card slot on the motherboard.Another blunder by the engineers and the designers.This is the biggest flop in handheld gaming history.

@@uclapac10 Seems a little early in the device's lifespan to get melodramatic about its merits. I agree the SD card location makes it vulnerable to mechanical failure caused by excessive CPU heat, but some people's SD card reader issues have been caused by (and fixed via updates to) software and not hardware. I think calling the Ally a flop ignores a lot of the device's capability. The next month or two will be the real test of the product's viability as a whole, as we see just how committed Asus is to supporting the Ally and addressing customer concerns. In the meantime, it's probably best to disable all CPU boosting to help prevent the both the overheating issue and possibly the SD card reader issue.

It definitely is crazy how much just 2 watts can make! Thanks for stopping by and glad it helped :)

Thanks! Here is a link to the joystick extenders I bought. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079811C49/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. They are for PS5/PS4 and the Nintendo Pro Controller so they don't fit perfectly. I'd probably hold off for some specifically made for the ROG Ally. For me they make them more comfortable, but they feel even looser with extenders on them. I'm sure there will be 3rd party joysticks at some point where we'll be able to replace them. I've taken apart the console and removed the Joysticks and it's not too hard to get to them. Asus has made it a lot easier to take apart than other devices I've seen.

Cause you did not apply the manual mode in armoury crate. Once you set the power levels make sure to tap the icon which has the tick mark within a square box. It should give you a warning prompt. Click Ok to proceed. Then you will be able to see the manual mode in command Center too in the operating mode toggle button

They updated it in a bios update to force it to 74 unfortunately. Because of an SD Card issue. So it was an update. It was bios 322 that caused that, and it's still present in 323. So you'd have to roll back to 317. But then you'd loose some performance as bios 323 really boosted lower watt performance.

Here is the video I just made about CPU boost: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m5l6l5qBsdu6g5s.html

Yes, however, I wouldn't use 1 or 2, the default to the fans being way too low. I'd only use 3, or adjust the fans manually by dragging around the squares. I personally just use 3 and get great temperatures.

@@filt3rless thanks. on fan 1 level 3 i cant lower the speed when its on 80c its on 74% fan right now. is this from a update?

@@menmabmx1995 Yes, it's from BIOS 322. They're ramping up Fan 1 because it's near the SD Card reader to try and mitigate heat. I have a video on why I don't think it's a good solution: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mLKbg66Tnsrbf6s.html

@@filt3rless ah thats kinda annoying fan is a lilttle loud but oh well hopefully they change that. manual mode change to auto lol.

Hey, glad the video helped! From my understanding if you have the FPS capped at 45FPS, you'd actually save some battery life, since the display is matching the 45FPS and will refresh at 45Hz. However, I'd say it'd be almost impossible to notice any power draw difference between the two when gaming because of how small the difference would be. The power levels you're running and FPS in game will be of far more importance. So capping the FPS to 45 in a game that could push 80+ or so will be a huge improvement in battery, but switching between 60hz and 120hz, you probably won't see much difference if at all. If you were planning to watch a movie or KZfaq however, 60Hz would give you longer battery life and I would recommend switching it for video watching. As you're only seeing 60Hz (or even less in some movies) and theres no reason to have it running at 120Hz as FreeSync doesn't work for videos.

If this helps: In my phone (ROG Phone 6 165hz) the ARM SoC which maxes out at about 12~15w in very heavy use capping the refresh of the screen to 60 does improve battery life while the phone is not in use for about a day (sleeping), but in normal use or even gaming unless the game pushes framerate higher than 60FPS the refresh rate of the screen doesn't have any meaninful difference in battery life. In my laptop with a 144 hz screen and having a CPU that can push about 40w (although i do cap to 29.5w because of diminishing returns using ThrottleStop in TPL menu) the refresh rate play too little if anything in battery life even if i a cap to 60 hertz, screen brightness and even the speakers consumes more power than the screen refresh rate.

@@filt3rless thanks! Makes sense 😁

@@M4RC0Geekthanks for the details!

Hey, V-Sync definitely does reduce tearing. I've notice it adds some latency though in most of the games I enabled it in (the input takes longer to take effect). So I usually leave it off for that reason and just use 120Hz and freesync as it does basically the same thing, but without the added input latency. Give it a shot if you have time and see what you think :)

@filt3rless yep it does but I guess for me it's not enough of a problem, the only reason I go this route is to save more battery, but although I haven't really tested this or see how much more it drains, it just makes sense that way unless you've noticed no difference?

@filt3rless also to add that 18watt does make a difference and drains a little less as I have a 20 watt mode set on mine that literally gives a frame or two more battery. I don know what the point of 25 watt mode is. In the several games I tested it only gives 3-6 frames more but drains significantly more battery. Asus needs to tune those power modes even more

Uncapping the framerate is a better option because it will feel smoother due to VRR it will feel smoother due to frame time being more stable, and it should in theory save battery due to the screen matching the refresh rate instead of being at 60 at all times

@pogchamp4542 more fps will need more power and kill battery quicker right? If a game dances around 65-75fps fluctuations cause instability rather than capping it at 60 fps keeping it stable and using less power necessary

From my understanding of free sync the display is matching the FPS of the game. So in this game it's actually running at 45Hz. If you set it to 60Hz, it constantly runs at 60Hz no matter what. So you'd be able to actually save battery as well as reduce tearing if you're below 60Hz. Now if you're running something at 120FPS, or watching videos (KZfaq, Netflix) then 60Hz is a great option if you want to conserve battery. And if you set it to 60Hz, you can turn on V-Sync and it'll cap the FPS to 60Hz. The "FPS Limiter" is basically useless on this, which I was thinking about making a video on because it doesn't work in Direct X games (which is most games). So something like MSI Afterburner with RTSS would allow you to cap the FPS across all games.

When you unplug it, you can go in and set the Manual mode to 18w. You have to set the 25w when it's plugged in, then the 18w while it's unplugged. Also, only the official charger/dock has worked for me. When I use 3rd party adapters/chargers, it stays in the same power mode when plugged in and unplugged. It's only on the official charger that it'll automatically switch. Hope this helps! :)

@@filt3rless That is exactly what happened with me. When I used the official charger it worked (changes automatically), and when I used JSAUX it doesn't change (need to do it manually for now). Thanks for confirming! I highly appreciate it :)

Yes, if you like the 17 watt profile you can set it at that, and then always run it at 17 watts for everything :) If you're getting low FPS however, it could be worth bumping it up between 20-25. I don't recommend 30 though as there isn't much gain for the additional watts/temperature.

I think he said set it to 3

I've noticed this as well. However, after you set it across the board it should hold those levels. It's only when you go back into the profile that it will jump the other sliders back. It acts weird, I don't know what's going on with Armoury Crate. I'd say just set the levels across the board, load up a game and see if it's actually boosting. If not, you should be good to go, mine seems to be working properly and I just leave it alone after I have it set. As soon as I start dragging sliders or going back into manual it seems to want to push the 2 sliders on the right back up.

Hey, it's just the default monitor. If you hit the second little button on the left to bring up the menu, you'll see a thing you can click, I believe called "Monitor" that will bring up the same little box you're seeing on mine.

Are you using the official charger? You'll have to change the settings when plugged in vs unplugged, then it should automatically switch. However, if you're using a 3rd party charger and/or dock it won't switch. It stays in the battery setting. I usually use a Steam Deck charger on the go, and it doesn't switch. On the official one though, it does switch.

I've been working on a video about this. Most games it doesn't make much difference, but there are a select few where it does. One of them being Dirt Rally 2.0. At 4GB I got (94 FPS Avg / 80 FPS 1% lows) and at 8GB I got (121 FPS Avg / 99 FPS 1% lows).

When you set the power levels make sure you don't have a game open. Then any games where you've already set a power profile, you'll need to change to the one you want. Games save the power profile you set per game, so if you were playing retro games, you could have a "Silent" profile and it remembers that and will auto switch. Any new games though should inherit the settings you set with no games open. So you should just have to change it for games that you've opened before you set the power limits. Also, if you hover over the game in the Armoury Crate launcher, you can hit "X" to bring up the settings and you should see "Configuration" where you can change the AC and DC power settings for that game. I wiped my device last night due to an issue I'm troubleshooting so I don't have Armoury Crate installed right now. Let me know if this helps though, if not I'll be able to give you more detail once I get it installed again :)

Hey the level "3" profile on both fans works great, even on BIOS 322. Although it's a bit louder now on Bios 322 because of them ramping the fan up more (probably because of the SD Card issues). You can always ramp up the fans even more, but if the system is running in the 70's, then it's good. Technically it can handle even hotter temperatures, and Asus allows it to hit 95c for the first 2 minutes in Turbo mode. So manually locking the watts means you're already well below the temps people are getting that don't lock them. I still just use the level 3 fan profile and have great temps. Make sure you select level 3 for each manual setting (it resets the fan curves for each new custom profile). So you'll need to set both fans to 3 for each profile (18w, 22w & 25w).

Perfect, I’ll give it a try and see how it goes. Thanks for the help!

I think 18W is a great number. I personally use 17W, but either one good for performance/battery.

--Edit I believe I misinterpreted what you were asking. Like Wash said below any 65 watt should work. However it probably won't automatically switch to the "plugged in" power profile like it does with the official charger. So if you have it set to "Turbo" when plugged in and "Performance" when unplugged, you'll have to manually switch this when not using the official power adapter/dock. Also, the manual settings will be locked to 25W. This is because there is a weird issue where Asus isn't properly recognizing most 3rd party chargers/docks. Hopefully ASUS fixes this in the future. --Original Comment Hey, I'm not sure there is one right now. For some reason Asus seems to be limiting 3rd party docks. So even if you have enough power being supplied, it won't "recognize" it. Hopefully they fix this in an update, but the only time I've been able to draw max power is on the ROG Ally Dock (which I have a video unboxing of) and the official charger that came with the ROG Ally. There could be a bank out there where the Asus will recognize it, but I currently don't know of any.

I don't think he answered your question. A power bank doesn't need to be recognized. It's going to supply power if the power lines are connected. Just pick up a nice power bank that says it charges at 65w. I also have no issue using the two hubs I have with it.

He's playing Subnautica, an underwater survival game from a few years ago. Not a noob question, no worries :)

Jeeze, that's almost 80% more power for 20% performance! I had my SD Card Reader burn out (at least from what I can tell). Planning to get another one soon, but with a warranty.

Use "3" for the fan profiles if you're not sure what you're doing. If you set Manual while plugged in, it'll always go to Manual when you plug it in, unless you switch it to something else, like Silent, Performance. Same for battery, if you set Manual mode it's a separate one for battery. So while plugged in you can have Manual set at 25 watts, and then unplugged it can be 18 watts. It will automatically switch back and forth. However, if you change it to "Silent" on battery, it will remember that and automatically choose "Silent" while on battery until you set it back to Manual.

@@filt3rless ok and how many profiles can we create? Seems like I will have to create 2 or 3

On the new Bios 322 they definitely do. On the older 317/319 Bios they stayed a lot quieter than when the device was in Turbo mode, and it ran cooler.

@@filt3rless Thanks🤟🥳

Yes, you'll want it plugged in, then you set all 3 sliders to 25W (make sure you also click the 3 fan profile for both fans). Then you can unplug it and set it to 17W. Now it will automatically switch when plugged in vs unplugged. No need to mess with settings after that. It's not per game, so just one time should work for all games :) Yes you can use the other modes. However, Turbo runs extremely hot so I don't personally use it. I had the SD Card Reader fail in my first unit and I think it could have been heat related.

@@filt3rless thank you so much. Can you tell me then what are you using for both unplugged and plugged for AAA games? I'd like to run them with nice graphics

@@JeremyBDE I use 18 watts unplugged and 25 watts plugged in :)

I agree, the Steam Deck handles games at low wattage really well. When I loaded up Dirt Rally 2.0 and saw 1.2 watts for the CPU and 2-3 watts for the GPU, with a total system draw under 15 watts at 40FPS, medium settings, I realized just how crazy good the Steam Deck is with power. But, the Freesync and raw performance of the Ally is something I like. Plus I can't get some games working properly on the Steam Deck, like Horizon 4, still stutters and can't do 60FPS.

This is on 319. I have a video I filmed after this where I test 317 vs 319, there is a slight difference in some games but not enough to be worth it IMO unless there is a specific game you're having issues with. I've since re-upgraded to 319 and haven't noticed any performance issues in a variety of games.

That is really strange, I'm able to use manual on battery. It even switches automatically when unplugged between watts I had set in Manual for battery.

@@filt3rless It's working now. Guess I needed an update

That's what I said in the video, to turn it to 120Hz and leave it there. I had it on 60Hz only to show why you shouldn't use 60Hz.

its the cpu boost, and dont last very long

It’s the power boost, it has 3 tdp power settings. Regular power then the 2 boosts. 1 boost is a few seconds and the other is a few minutes.

I am planning on running a new watt test. If you'd like a sneak peak, here is how the Ally performs on Crysis going from 7W all the way to 35W: imgur.com/a/bD9GNNG. You can really see where it starts dropping off on the top end. I've been using 17W as my primary watt level, and 25W for extra performance when needed.

@@filt3rless thank you

Will you still be doing an update on these settings?

It's a game called Subnautica. Underwater survival/builder type game.

I'm lowering the wattage because a 20% increase in power load, higher heat, and fan noise for less than a 5% performance improvement doesn't make sense, in my opinion. Also, heating the device up to 95c to get extra performance for 2 minutes on a gaming handheld doesn't make sense to me. When it's at 95c, try touching the screen, it's the hottest part of the entire device. Maybe it's designed for it, but I'd rather play it safe on a 1st generation device to get the maximum life span possible.

Not to mention high rog ally temps currently frying sd cards

This is really a dumb statement. Everyone knows that heat kills conponents and battery. It is just stupid to say 95° is fine for cpu...its like its fine to drive the car constant at 6.000 to 7.000 rpm.

​@@filt3rless5% increase minimum and at the top end of your FPS range the performance increase is hugely noticeable in many games even just 25w vs 30w boost I am seeing up to 10fps differencea

@@Xarviz These days, you're mostly incorrect. Heat is a problem but only at very high levels. They're designed to withstand temps of 95c, do the research. They wouldn't throttle AT 95c if it was dangerous to be at 95c. It's fine. 100+ I'd start getting concerned

Dude what? The ally is amazing