Thanks JayJo, we appreciate the support.

Thanks mate, lots to come. Subscribe, like, bellit and share.

@killerdrumstv I just finished my first full resto on a 2004 PDP CX maple kit w/new double-45° bearing edges, finished insides, and sealed with Penetrol all thanks to watching this video(and this series) about 100 times. It plays and sounds amazing! Thanks for sharing all this incredible knowledge!

Hey man, thanks for your comment. I’m glad you can use the knowledge.

Thanks. We appreciate the comments.

Thats what we like to hear! thanks for your support 🙌

Thank mate! Shout out to St Louis from killerdrums.TV

You're welcome. Thanks for your comment and be sure to tell others about us. We have a bunch more resto video scheduled to film.

Hey Kevin, thanks for taking the time to comment. Heaps more coming, let your drummer friends know to subscribe to catch the next Rogers resto, a full kit.

You're welcome! Tony

Thank you! Cheers!

Hey Zanis, thanks for your comment. Four hand rubbed coats and nothing on top. What you see is the actual poly product. The trick is using the super fine steel wool in between and removing all wool dust before coating again. The good thing is that if you stuff a coat up, just use wet and dry, 800-2000 grit sand paper to flatten and bumps and take off the sheen of the last coat and go again. All the best with your project and thanks for watching. Kind regards Tony Moore

Hey mate, this one is my B bench, it’s a granite slab with a custom ally plate I’ve machined to suit what I want. Basically to have two or three cutters set and running at any one time. So I can cut inner and outer super quick. I recommend a granite surface plate and 5mm ally plate for the routers rigged to be perfectly flush with your surface plate. My A rig is better than the b rig, but it’s 20 times the price and out of the reach if most people, so I use the B rig here to keep it real for those wanting to try and do the same. All the best with the project. Tony

Penetrol oil dries and can be treated as a primer, meaning you can definitely seal the outer of the shell too. I have a kit here I made back at the millennium (2000) and it’s 100% penetrol inside, outside, edges and also drill holes. It looks almost as good as day one. The byline on the Penetrol can is something like “makes paint stick to anything”. It’s my go to.

I'll try and buy an old slingerland tom and make a bearing when film for tou.

@@KillerDrumsTV You are The Best! Thank You! Hi fron México city!

As long as it's smooth and the edge true, it rarely matters what the contact point actually is.

Years ago when I was wanting to actually hear what difference a bearing edge made to a shell, I'd buy massive tubes of Keller shells in 12" and 14" diameters the cut a whole bunch of shells the same depth and put different edges on them all. But that's a was to practice on quality shells and they are cheap. Always use sharp cutters. Have fun. Tony

@@KillerDrumsTV Thanks

Hey John, sorry for the late reply. Tony uses several cutters, some are actually custom made. These ones in particular are CMT 45 degrees, with a trace bearing.

Hey mate, a long time ago in Bethlehem, I did an A/B of three methods of wrapping a drum, focused on the seeing if there was a reduction, increase or neutral affect from the method on sustain, tone, and anything else. Tape of any kind had the greatest negative impact as it effectively created an air cavity between the shell and the wrap, much like how it is used in studio walls for sound deadening. The best was a thin film glue film over the entire shell with compression. That said the method I use is contact spray glue on the shell and the wrap. Wait 5 minutes and then bring together and they are glued on contact. In essence I can wrap a drum faster this way than in using tape and you almost can’t tell any tonal difference (in resonance not pitch) between an unwrapped shell of the same thickness and a wrapped shell. There is nothing wrong with tape, but it’s worth noting that wrapped YAMAHA recording custom drums are the most difficult to remove their wraps because of the full contact and type of glue used for drum wraps so to not take away from the shells resonance. Thanks for your comment.

yes I pondered using 3M super 77 all under it all and the 4611 at just the overlap . Looks like that is the winner despite so many that said it would creep in the heat of car in the summer. Bethlehem had a great music store in the 80s called Kempher Music. Bought many Paiste there.

If you’re a little ways away, hang in for my wrapping video. I’ve seen all the ridiculous was people advise how to wrap a drum, but if they were cabinetmakers there is really only one method that is professional; and I’ve reduced that to a diy method with 100% success. Subscribe and it will let you know when it’s up.

@@KillerDrumsTV yes still a few days away from heading into the unknown lol. I refrained from super 77 as it now contains acetone. I went for a high heat polymat 797x spray adhesive good for pvc to wood at 220 degree flash point. Delmar solid color wrap being Pvc wrap. Just watched part 3 again for the 10th time going to sand bearing edges again as I used only 120 grit .... going to rub together as you suggest here to up closer to 200 grit

Hi, Rogers used “Jasper” shells from the 50's thru about 1962; which were 2 or 3 ply depending on the shell size, with a 2 or 3 ply rering. These shells were maple/poplar/maple. The painted shells usually had a thin outer veneer of mahogany. Rogers switched to “Keller” shells, which were originally 3-ply but standardised to 5-ply within a year or 2. These shells were Maple/birch. This drum is the later. Thanks for your comment.

thank you!

It's a Watson product, sometimes I use a Japan black stain, but any quality black stain will work. All the best with your project. Kind regards Tony Moore

Ewan, Tony uses a variety of grades, and also old sand paper that’s worn down. Generally however, a good quality 240 grit sand paper.

Hey Dre, Sunshine Coast, AUSTRALIA.

Good thoughts Robert. Thanks for your comment.

Hey mate, appreciate the thought, however the issue with a large A2 sanding plate like DW and others show often in use in videos, is that it cuts the whole surface and not just the high spots; this done with absolute even downward pressure over the whole bearing edge line will achieve good results. HOWEVER, in practice this is rarely, very rarely achieved, especially as shells get larger, where you physically can't hold down more than the small area where your hands are positioned. Second, the paper wears unevenly and so the illusion is that it's cutting evenly but the reality is that it's not and can't cut evenly. As such I now only use a sanding area as large as my hands can keep pressure on and can quickly replace the paper as it fails. But I agree edges must be cut before you fine tune these edges on the granite slab with sand paper, then cut and true until it's perfect. I've extensively used both methods and ultimately ditched the A2 sheets method in favour of this alternate and simple method. Lastly the palm block plane is an essential tool in experienced hands for bearing edge trueing. Often A2 sanding method throws the bearing edge out of right angle to the shell from one side to another. I've had to repair this on many revered hand made drums. We have a bunch of new resto videos going up, some dealing with controversial topics and issue and demonstrating the proof of their failure. I appreciate the chat, have a great day. Tony

Chers mate.

I key doe k

Sure Doug, I can fix anything. Killerdrums.TV@gmail.com

Thanks man, don’t let the dust distract you.

@@KillerDrumsTV I loved the content and info! The waste on the bench was distracting though! Nice work! Subscribed!

Yeah, it’s a good point. I’m working on a set of teaching videos that are more slick, but you have to pay for the info there. These are free, But I try to make these real and genuine as possible, with diy tools, done in ways that a novice could try with a decent level of success. I have all the high end gear but that’s no fun if you want to have a go and can’t because you don’t have the expert gear to make it so.

No!

Hey thanks for your comment. I've done thousands of drums mate, any and every way conceivable, not as a dIYer but a tradesman, a craftsman. Most bearing edge videos are DIYers who make drum videos and so they wouldn't know a lot of things and just do things on repeat; what ever they saw with out thought. A craftsman, tries things every which way to do things faster and maintain or improve the quality of result. As such, I've heard everyones thoughts on this stuff of decades, but their practice fails in function and efficiency every time. There are many schools of thought around bearing edges. Most hardliners with only "one way" have only explored one way, or only know one way. They can't think any differently as their skills and awareness just aren't up to the task. Simply, The physics of a drum necessary to activate what we want in a drum are simple. But so many don't even understand that at all. Here it is for you: If an African hollowed out log with nothing perfectly round, level, true or at 90 degrees, with bearing edges hacked out with a sharp rock can produce a more pure and resonate tone that all the previous applied to a perfectly crafted drum shell like DW then you're missing something, right. That said, and to respond to your criticism. Those who don't reduce the bearing edge material first are wasting their time rotating a drum on sandpaper. As their musing around and around for hours (sarcastically used) to reduce a wide surface (as opposed to a smaller surface) often just proves the point that people only know one way and don't have the skills or awareness to try other ways BEFORE making judgment. In fact, I'll add your comment into my next resto video, to put your theory under fire and cut one side each way and show others why your way is actually a waste of time and introduces the potential to impact negatively on the result. A rule in quality and efficient craftsmanship, is reduce before your get precise, other wise it's a waste of time. Your method is not technically wrong, it's just not better or even right professionally. It's DIY folly. A profession has the approach to every task with quality as the only goal, and skilled precision and efficiency, the method. If I can cut a better or even the same quality edge in 10 minutes, and others take 45 minutes; both are of equal quality, but only one was smart and a better way. Try it. Thanks for you thoughts, have a great day.

Hey J, yeah I understand. The thing I like about old Rogers, is that compared to more other manufactures at the time, their shell construction method was superior. So as in anything if you have quality materials, quality design and quality craftsmanship, you get a quality result. That's why, with vintage drums, I particularly like tweaking Rogers shells. That said all modern manufactures should be making quality shells, particularly with computer controlled production and consistency. That said, the Timbers used these days are very young and that can sometimes lose the characteristics of age and stability in tone and timber. I generally find most drums need work, even my brand new kits at times. The point that many never discuss about modern drums, is that of fixing lugs on to the shell too tightly causing the shell to choke and all that good wood and tone to go to waste. All the best mate. Regards Tony.