I usually put the fig cuttings in a glass of water for 7-10 days until white lenticle cells can bee seen on the wood. Then I just put them into a pot with moist (not wet) coco coir, put a plastic bag on top of it with some holes in it for airation. Done. Even summer-rooting seems to work this way.

As an aside, I am really impressed with the subject knowledge of this group; contributors from all over the world no less. In the spirit of scientific exchange and cogent commentaries, it is a university education. I have just acquired the 3 fig varieties MG recommended, and for now I will sit in the last row in this classroom and learn.

I just take cuttings in autumn, pop into potting mix in a few pots, water well & almost 100% success, they root & grow everytime.

I would love to see you do an episode on air layering fig trees.

Thanks for another high quality video. I appreciate your patience in waiting until results were complete before posting.

Beautiful, thorough video. Thank you!

This is a very upsetting process when you lose some, I tried a few different ways.....the best way for me so far has been rooting them straight in the 4x9 tree pot using peat moss and perlite, I use a blue tote so no light gets through and put a heating pad under it, though I leave a 3/4" spacing under the tote using 1x2 pcs. after about 2 to 3 weeks they leaf out....but are very pale due to no light....I start leaving the lid off. (I was opening it once a day for fresh air) After another week of lid off, I move the tote next to a window in indirect sun light. All cuttings are 8 to 10" tall of new growth, At 5 weeks I use a weak fertilizer mixture, If I could post a pic I would. I like this method because I hate losing them in the up potting, this way no up potting until they are well established, then it is straight out of tree pot into bigger pot.....I do not shake off the peat moss as to not disturb the root system. Everyone has their favorite way, I tested most ways with cuttings I didn't pay too much for. Right now I have 5 LSU Tiger going great and 2 Yellow long neck, I think 1 Celeste is in there too. Great video, Thank you for sharing your ups and downs!

Thanks for sharing this video like always it’s very informative! Oh by the way congratulations on the 100k subscribers!!! 😃🎉

Great video again! I’ve also purchased cuttings when I hear a cool name which sends me down the rabbit hole of researching specifics of the variety lol

Thanks for your time and effort, man. This is my first year getting into figs cuttings, and I've spent more money than I should buying cuttings and seeing them rot. I'm young and dumb, I assume. Your videos are a blessing.

Hey, That's a eye shadow brush Lol I send out cuttings on Etsy and once I sent out an order to a customer that the post office lost , well it was returned to me 12 days later ( because of being marked perishable ) when I opened the mailer they had all rooted, so I just stuck them in pots and grew them..

Wow what a great process, another excellent video

Another great experimental video...definitely JSacadura inspired. That Dale machine gun bit at the end gave me a chuckle. Thanks for the great vids man!

I use old water bottles, holes in the bottom for drainage and a seed starter mix. I use a potato peeler and remove 4 sides of the bottom 3 inches of the cutting. This method never fails to produce a great root system and healthy plants.

I think your success rate is great; 90% is a good return. It occurred to me that in the up-potting you might decrease the transition loss rate by keeping the up-potted cuttings on your heat matt in the original rooting place, but you realized this and said so. Another great video and an as-usual entertaining AWD segment!

I'm going to try out this method

Highly appreciated that you convert to metric units as well

Figpop method has given me close to 100% from rooting to potting upgrade

Terrific video.

I like your paper towel method. Seems cleaner, simpler and less expensive. Also I noticed you used some cuttings with green wood. You made mention on another video you want lignified wood. I live in TX and picked up a Golden Riverside a few months back, single stalk. It's now 20 Aug, it's been in a container for 6 weeks and growing like a weed and now with figletts. Great program!

Very interesting!🙂

Out of all my cuttings last year (8 varieties x 3-4 cuttings each) with coco coir in shoebox, only two varieties have survived the year. One Italian-258 and... YOLO, all four of them... I had a very interesting experience with Panache. All four cuttings have rooted like crazy and developed leaves after up-potting. Within a month all four dropped leaves and developed root rot. So, going to try your method with pine bark this year, fingers crossed.

I have tried nearly every rooting method thats been shared on the internet. The only problem with this rooting method will be losses upon removal from the shoebox and up-potting. If they leaf out in the box, they will almost certainly die from shock when removed from the 100% humidity environment. The roots experience the same type of shock when switched from a 100% humidity environment. I am still an advocate of the "unified" method because it avoids many of the pitfalls we as fig growers fall into throughout this process. That said,, I really hope this method works great for you. Best of luck!!

The transition is killer. I’m trying to salvage a cutting that rooted in perlite and just kind of plateaued on me. After transplanting to fine peat and perlite mix, the leaves stared drooping after two weeks. I removed from pot, roots were orangish, but not rotting, sprayed with very dilute peroxide, and replanted. Should I cut or remove the wilted leaves? I hate to give up on this, it’s a cutting from a friends family tree in Italy...but as they say, if you have to drag the horse all the way home, it’s probably dead. Loving “Machine Gun” Dale, I enjoy when he photo bombs your videos.

HI IT HAPPEND TO ME FEEW DIED IN TRANSTION ,BUT I PUT THAT TO LEARNING .GOOD LUCK

Fine! If I remember correctly, this method was first suggested by a wonderful Portuguese gardener with the nickname JSacadura

I live in Dominican Republic and I'm limited to whatever I find here. I don't know what variety they are but the ones I have that have had figs are delicious. Unfortunately I live in an apartment and don't have much space so i can't plant them in 5 gallon containers so they really do not get much top growth. Being raised in Louisiana, I wish there were a way to get some of the LSU varieties sent down here. For now I'll just watch videos and dream about them.

You rock👏🏼👍🏼🙏🏼

Great video, as always. I tried rooting about a dozen cuttings the traditional way in potting soil and a tall, clear plastic cup. Only had a couple succeed. What do you think about scoring or putting small cuts in the bark at the base of the cutting? I notice you didn't do that.

Thanks!

This works great for rooting. Up potting caused major shock and a few didn't survive. Curious what happened to your fig pop attempts, they worked flawless for me. With fig pop I can up pot with the same promix medium and almost no root disturbance.

In which period of the year do you do this? Right after pruning your fig trees? I live in Chihuahua Mexico and it's really hot almost all year around and I'm having issues to reproduce my fig tree

I am trying this now. I will aim for 2 weeks in the wood chips, then into fig-pop bags with soil and back into the incubator for another 2 weeks, before filtered sunlight.

Like always, great video! Are you selling any of the rooted cuttings that made it?

I think the issue is root ball disruption. If you are able to better isolate the cuttings from each other, I think you can up the success rate. I think I'm pretty much sold on the direct potting method now that I've developed a better sense of if a cutting has rooting or not. Previously, I was doing the three cup method of putting the cutting into a clear plastic cup with a many drainage holes, then into a undrilled clear cup, then into Red solo cup to prevent light damage. This was somewhat labor intensive and you still have the potential for root ball disruption.

Cool way to root thanks for sharing.. from the 4x9 pots what’s the next size that you up pot ?

If you do it outside when it's warm you don't have to worry about overwatering as much (for me anyway). once I up pot I completely soak the soil and it stays outside like a regular tree. Haven't had one die from overwatering yet, because all the excess drips and those pots are small enough that they can dry out in 3-4 days.

question...where do u find the pots u use for the figs..the link u put on is not the same kind of pots...thanks.

my personal experience....i do not baby the cuts either when they are put to root nor when i transplant them...so far never have an issue loosing cuttings due to "cut" or damage roots at the time of transplant...however i lost some due to too much rain...

This channel seems to make everything about gardening way harder. Rooting figs is not difficult. Baking pine bark is a wild solution. Maybe that's the whole concept, including the name of the channel?

I had losses on up potting. What method are you using now?

Is it too late to do a cutting, I just bought my first fig tree yesterday! It is an Champagne LSU variety. It’s about 2 feet tall with good green growth. When do you do the cuttings, or it doesn’t matter. Thanks for the video and I look forward to watching all of your videos. Keep it up!

I would have used Micorizae it would ha ve helped incredilbly.

Are you going to sell these fig trees? Also, why do some of the cuttings have so many more roots? Is it a species issue or where they are in the rooting chamber? This video was extremely interesting!!

great video I love your style, how I can get fig cuttings to grow in a big pot in Montreal Canada, Zone 4 I believe, and what is best variety that is sweet to grow, thx

Have you tried one those low pressure aeroponic propagators?

Thank you for sharing with us Do you put a lid on the shoebox or do you leave it open?

meanwhile, I had 100% success last year by simply shoving cuttings into dirt-filled little pots and leaving them outside all winter

Is there a video about fertilizing once the figs are grown and after harvest?

Does This Method Work For Rooting Other Type Of Fruit Trees Such As Apricot, Peach, Nectarine, Plum, Apple, Cherry, Pear, Scions,Etc.? It Seems Like Everything I Ever See Is Only For Fig Trees.

I believe many may have failed because the shock i the difference in humidity. After they develop leave in the shoe box it’s best to slowly acclimate them to less humidity preferably over a span of a week.

Hello, great video. I have a question for you. Do you know if there is any scientific classification for the different varieties of figs? The same fig has different common names, even in the same country, it happens here in Portugal and also in Spain. Purpura verde is a Portuguese name, but it does not exist in a collection of 94 varieties that exists in the Algarve, south of the country. It would be interesting to know the varieties better. Thank you.

Awesome as always my dude...how long do cuttings last and how would you recommend storing them? I'm new to cuttings and only have one fig currently, but I'm planning on making cuttings for my family. Thanks again!

Since rooting season is upon us once again, I wondered what method you will be using this season 2021/2022 given your experience. I have a professional nurseryman friend that uses primarily pine bark fines with a little green sand and some fertilizer for most of his container plants. I wondered if you had been able to use true pine bark fines that have a finer grain (or screened finer using the mulch) if those finer fines would have adhered more to the roots during the up-potting process and reduced shock/failure. I'm trying to decide what method to use this year. I grow all my vegetable seedlings with ProMix BX that I get by the bale from a local farm supply and have near 100% success with stated germination rates for the seeds. I had planned to use that for the fig rooting, but may go with pine bark fines. Thanks!

Is the sound quality on your videos due to your mic? Impressed by the sound when it’s clipped to your belly

can you still use the rooting hormone gel with this method of rooting?

moss meant for terrariums and pet lizards works better for me, and you use it right out of the package, no need bake it to get rid of stuff if you have willow and a wood chipper, willow mulch works great too

May I ask what you recommend I do in this situation? I have the remains of a Fig in my yard and it is surrounded or embedded in a huge bunch of Poison Ivy. I’m very allergic to the Ivy. To get rid of the Ivy someone needs to dig it out but I think it will compromise or cut into the Fig’s roots. Should I take a cutting from the Fig and try to grow a separate tree? The Fig is not very tall right now but has healthy leaves.

👍👍👍

Rooting figs consistently is the hardest damn thing to do in the hobby imo. I'm noticing that outdoor figs do way better. I'm about to give up rooting indoors for good.

From what I read. peat moss is anti microblal.

I agree with you that main causes of failure when up potting could be too sudden exposure to the outdoor temp fluctuation and much less humidity plus potting medium change (humidity and wetness around root change). I hope your new strategy in up potting for next season will work for you. As for the up potting timing, I found the latest KZfaq video by JSacadura on rooting cuttings in plastic container seems worthy of referencing. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/meBmpZVyx9LTgI0.html He removes the plastic cover of the container after about a month when the fig cuttings start showing little leaves and roots. He would let cuttings leaf out and grow roots until 10 to 11 weeks since the cuttings are placed in the container. At this point, the roots are well established and the transition from coco coir to regular potting mix would not cause significant transplant shocks. Here in Michigan, I started rooting of fig cuttings in doors in February to March as the outside weather was still very cold and dry. I used plastic shoe boxes which has space for 2 to 3 cuttings and instead of using the plastic rid came with the box, I used a large piece of saran wrap covering the box entirely with 2 sides (length sides) taped by duck tape at only 1 point each (lot of air can pass through the gap). I moistened the coco coir very slightly to the point there are still some grains of dry coco coir. I kept the boxes on top of the fridge in the kitchen where the temperature is constantly around 70 degrees and the LED light fixture on the ceiling is providing the light and little bit of extra warmth to the cuttings. When the cuttings started to bud out and grew little leaves (about the size of a quarter coin), I cut out holes on the saran up right above the leaves to let the less humid air touch the leaves to prevent molds. I started giving half concentration soluble fertilizer in water by a table spoon per cutting per week after I see the roots turning a tinge of yellowish color. If the leaf reacts with shriveled edge, I will stop giving the fertilizer. So far, the leaves of the fastest growing cutting are about 3 inches wide and a lot of yellowish roots at the bottom of container. As the leaves become larger, I will increase the amount of soluble fertilizer and the frequency. This method works best in my fig growing experience of 5 years after killing a lot of fig cuttings by too much water in the medium or too soon exposure to less humid air. I am planning to up pot to pine bark base potting mix in mid to late May but continue to grow them in door. From early to mid June, I will slowly transition the pots to outdoor in the shaded area of my backyard and keep them for a month before exposing them to the full sun light. Lastly, I watched DFoster's KZfaq where he uses 2 deep plastic containers with one of them flipped up side down to cover the other one to keep the potted young trees. He used this method when transitioning the cuttings from a humidity dome to shaded outdoor to ensure that the shock from the humidity level would be minimum. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o6-Ye7yh37yxc6c.html

Did not see a link to the deep pots.

I tried this method last winter. 90 out of 100 rooted quickly, but I left them in the box too long. Lost about 50 when transplanting.

I had horrible success in every media I tried…until I decided to change from Clonex to Dip-N-Grow and see what happens. I now direct pot in 4x9 pots with 70/30 coir/perlite with a layer of rice hulls on top and Dip-N-Grow at 1:15 dilution. Last two batches were 100% success rooting and lost only 5-15% after rooting because I did not have to up pot. Seems the figs didn’t like the gel and/or the strength of the Clonex because I had poor results with stronger dilution of Dip-N-Grow as well. All other parameters (moisture, etc.) remained consistent. That was my “eureka” moment.

Have you ever tried to root cuttings in diluted liquid fertilizer solution?? Will it work?

It would be much easier and I think more successful if you would tilt the tote up and let the rooting bark fall away from the cutting.

do I really need to use a rooting hormone?

Once I rooted 6 fig cuttings just by leaving them in a bucket of water outside for a month in the summer

Seems it is better to root each in its own pot. Then the roots do not get disturbed.

Hi can I buy a few of ur fig cutting

After all the different types or ways of rooting cuttings. Which way do you prefer the most? With most success?

Did you make a gravy after roasting?

I have a nice big fig tree in a pot and its not producing any figs at all......its very healthy otherwise....any idea why that is please?

You are obviously not married mate !

U did nothing wrong...nature have a way to select the strong and the weak...if you fail with some cuttings try and try again...one thing that kill the rooted cuts is a lot of water....