Super dangerous setup, probably more dangerous than just free solo since you are more likely to risk a fall. Last placement after a fall is not good - big trouble. High above a placement and it locks accidentally - big trouble. You take a fall and get injured - you're super fucked up, since you cant just lower yourself down. Bad locking with rope drag: if you are high up with some rope drag, you all know a belayer can hold a fall pretty easily. But the revo depends on rope speed, so it is possible in that case to take a long long fall to the ground or a ledge with moderate speed - easy to get injured if you dont land well on youre feet. That would not happen, if the device is at you're harness. No possibility for backup, if the locking mechanism of that single device does not work (dirt, ice, other malfunction) or it breaks due to crossload you fall to the ground.

There are a lot of issues with belaying off the anchor like this. Sure, you can just lead up with a Revo on the anchor but if any issue occurs below you like, the rope being tangled, device locking up unexpectedly, etc. You're now in a position where you have to stop where you are and descend back to the anchor to fix it. This scenario could happen when you are between bolts or gear, causing you to have to downclimb or whip to your last piece to get to some gear to fix it. Or worse if you're solo aiding in C3 or harder terrain you may be far from any gear you want to rap off to go back. If you're lead rope soloing you really need to have the device on you to manage any potential issues of this nature. Also the reason we use one locking carabiner so much in climbing is because we are there to watch it and manage it in most situations. This is also the reason we use two lockers for a top rope setup, because we can not see the anchor and manage the lockers. So there is the very unlikely, but totally possible scenario, in this setup that you're rope unknowing runs over the gate of the locker and opens it, thus leaving you unknowingly with a belay on an unlocked carabiner.

Really interesting video. I would consider this approach however here in Ireland we have very few bolted climbs of interest (especially multi pitch). Therefore the anchors would mostly be constructed with protection pieces. That is theoretically possible obviously, but it adds another layer if complexity risk which perhaps tests my risk tolerance too much. I think I would feel more comfortable just bringing the Revo up on my harness. It would still mean constructing an anchor with cams etc but a little less complexity in the set up after that...maybe :)

The fact that the device is out of control would make me really nervous. The hassle after the potential fall is just too much - imagine that you were caught by a small nut, so you need to rappel of it? Another drawback not mentioned is that you completely loose the possibility to tie backup knots unless there is someone on the ground who would be untying them.

Dangerous as heck, sorry, but this is an absolute no-go!

Thanks

I usually climb with Revo attached to my harness, with the old method I used with the Silent Partner, I mean, two backup knots also attached to my harness... climbing solo with Revo I've learned that from time to time the Revo can get jammed, it means the trigger is up, I dont want to imagine to be in a risky step and suddenly the Revo get jam and is 15m below, cant go ahead and with no posibility to unjammed it... scary...

Very very very dangerous set up, for several reasons. One of the main ones is that the revo is sitting at the bottom of the wall and you have no control on it. It'd be much better to have it on your harness. You're also using only one device to belay yourself while you should always have two belay devices in solo rope climbing, in case one device fails. Do not repeat this set up guys.

Much more usefull method is when you attach the revo into your harnes. You have no control on revo device after fall...

Idk man I kinda like it. Lol. Clever. It DOES allow you to lead without carrying the rope and probably the closest thing to actually leading that I’ve come across on the webs…. But yeah, a few issues still remain for sure. Seems like a good system to use for easy technical climbing well below your grade. Like three grades below just for kicks sort of climb. In the sense I like it :)