Thanks so much for the feedback!

Well I hope I make it look "doable".

Thank you

Thanks so much Michael. I'm happy to hear you find the videos useful!

Wow - that's an old QE! I wish you the best of luck in propagating it - I hear it's not too hard to stick

Thanks Allan!

Thanks so much!

So happy to hear it. Thanks for watching

My pleasure Nelida. Thanks for watching

So happy to hear it. Winchester Cathedral is one of my favorites

Awesome!

Good to hear Clair

That's a tough balance, but you're right: only experience will tell you how they react. I've even seen roses improve their performance when given a little high or afternoon shade, especially in the heat of summer.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm and I have found roses easy to move. Where they were before was full sun but raise so difficult to keep the soil moist and it always would cause mildew. I might move the back but the in front of the patio when it’s rebuilt if they do not like the new places.

Thanks Lois. It's now my best-shaped tree!

Nice - so good to hear about your rose's successful move!

Glad to hear it. So many say an old rose won’t move at all, so I’m glad to hear it does well and that you can do it successfully!

Thanks Michele. So far we've been shipping within Canada - and I'll see if we can extend that past the border in coming months.

Thanks Jennie. It's 'Leda' like from the Greek myth. I couldn't be happier to see the covid restrictions coming off!

I hope you do - it's a great performer!

You bet. Thanks for the suggestion, and I'm sure I'll be able to do a more comprehensive tour in the spring.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank You Jason! I think you would be very busy during the spring flush at your rose farm, but to hear the names and see the roses bushes in their full form would never be considered excessive to a rose hobbyist. And thank you for all the information and videos that you out out.

Hi Peter. Thanks so much! I have two purple roses behind my right shoulder in that shot. The one in the foreground is 'Robert le Diable' and the one way in the back is indeed 'Cardinal de Richelieu'. Very similar flowers, but I find Cardinal de Richelieu far too susceptible to mildew in my climate. The orange flowered rose is 'Fellowship' (marketed as Livin' Easy in America - not sure how they sell it in Europe). The rose in the final shot is 'Complicata'

Thanks Steven. That one is 'Celeste' and yes, it's fairly productive (for a tree that's crowded and in a bit of shade). I've put in a couple of other fig trees (unknown varieties from other local gardeners). They take a while to establish in our heavy soil, but I've been surprised by how well they tolerate the odd blast of arctic air. I haven't propagated them - but for no other reason than it seems there's a fair bit of local competition.

That's Pomponella - and the buds are dark in this picture, but they're generally mid-pink

Yes, early spring is the safest time for a significant pruning.

Hmmm. That's a tough one. If the rose seems to be putting on healthy growth otherwise, it should have tried blooming by now. This is only a shot in the dark (and forgive me if I'm stating the obvious) but some once-blooming roses bloom on "old wood" so if you follow the rules and prune it low in early spring, you'll never see any flowers. If it's one of those, you would time pruning for later in the season. The only other thing I can think is climate - some roses just don't perform well in some climates (like centifolias in the tropics, for instance). I wish I could be more helpful!

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you for your response Jason :) I've never had to prune it as rabbits keep eating it right down to the nubbin! This might explain it... Maybe it's time to put in another rose bush!

Hi Dorota. Iceberg is a great old(er) floribunda. It's a strong repeat bloomer in my garden, starting early in the season and rarely without flower until very late. I do find it susceptible to black spot at times, so I stay on top of stripping leaves at the first signs of foliar disease. It already tends to be pretty sparse with leaves. Iceberg is famous for "sporting" - having stems appear with color and habit variations, so if you're loving the white shrub, you might also like 'Brilliant Pink Iceberg', 'Burgundy Iceberg' or 'Climbing Iceberg'.

You're welcome. The short answer is usually late winter (for repeat bloomers) or just after the initial bloom period (if you missed the first window or you're pruning a once-blooming rose)

Thanks Joy. The elderberries are fast! I planted this one two years ago, and the display last year was nearly as impressive!

Wow!! They sound awesome!

Thanks. I'll add it to my list.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Super, thank you.

It's a hybrid for sure - but it dates back to 1827, and I'm not sure the parentage is recorded

Hi Lita. If you're checking the online stores, it's spelled 'Leda' like from the Greek myth

There's no population of rabbits (or deer) on my part of Nicomen Island. Lucky me.

Hi Rich. We don't have Epigaea repens in our area, but it looks wonderful! My memory might be failing me too, but if I was thinking of an older rose that was comparable to Bonica, I may have mentioned Ballerina. Different bloom form, but similarly adaptable to a wide range of gardens.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thanks

Hi Jin. The final Damask I featured was 'Leda'

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I check HMF and it says zone 4 to 9 b. I wonder if I can grow it ?

Late winter/early spring is the classic time to prune. If your climate isn't too hot, you can also prune fairly heavily after the first flush of flowers. If your winters aren't too cold, you can even go later into fall and winter. Sorry if that's not too clear cut - but it does depend on your climate.

Hi Elie. I definitely have black spot in my garden. The timing of the tour was fairly good & a bit early for the worst of it. I don't let it bother me much. I incorporate a cleanup of old infected foliage in my deaheading and that's about all.

That's a long time to go without initiating any flowers. I'd be concerned about the health of the roots. Since they're in pots, that's something you can maybe check on the condition. Unless it's overgrown now, I probably wouldn't cut it back.

If I were putting in just a few varieties, I think I'd choose an assortment

Thanks Dolly. That rose was 'Eden'

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Good, I've already ordered it. I'm running out of room.

Hi Gus. It can be tough to ID an unknown rose. After taking some good pictures of flowers, foliage, size & habit, I'd probably start at your local garden center(s). There's some chance that what was planted in your new yard was one commonly sold in your area. If that doesn't pan out, you can use those pictures to post to one of the Facebook rose groups.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thanks Jason for responding. I will do just that 👍Have a great day🤠

I'm not sure it's anything you can prevent, but it sure would be nice to redirect that vigor into fresh strong stems from the base of the plant. I wonder if a judicious thinning of the oldest stems down low would help.

Hi Emma. I haven't used the ladybird larvae but have applied aphidoletes (aphid midge) with good success. The supplier will usually provide some guidance on introduction rates. When they use sq. meter they're obviously going with a 2D estimate of an "average" garden (whatever that is!) but if you're concerned that your aphid outbreak is severe and concentrated, you could up the rate by 50% or more.

Thanks. It's 'Eden' or 'Pierre de Ronsard' (depending on your market)

Thank you Jason.

Coffee grounds are a fine addition to your compost or even directly to the plants.

Hi Emily. Right off the bat, 2 hours of sun is a bit on the low side. I depends a bit on how bright the location is otherwise, but usually roses will perform best with a minimum of 6 hours/day. I hope you've gone ahead and removed any old, dead canes. Since you've moved it recently, it may take a little bit of time to return to vigorous growth, but when it does, you can prune even those side branches closer to the crown to encourage new shoots. Some of these older roses can begin to look a bit funny and lopsided over time, but annual pruning and feeding will help to restore a more balanced shape. Having said all that, the main question is this: do you like this rose? Are you happy with the form, fragrance & color of the blooms and the general healthiness of the foliage? If so, it's probably worth the efforts you're putting in to "rescue" it. If not, it may be better to hit Instagram for a garden rose that really excites you, and direct your efforts to towards that.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you for the response! Well you certainly went to the heart of the issue there 😂😂. I don’t find this type of rose particularly exciting. I just hate to pull up an established plant. It feels so wrong 😂😂. I think they might be the knock out roses… small, quick blooms with little fragrance. There is one bush in another area of the yard that I believe is a hybrid tea… the knock out ones just don’t even compare to the beauty and fragrance of that one! And watching some of your videos and other youtubers has definitely gotten me excited for some beautiful roses! I think you’re right - I should look for ones I enjoy 😊 But will put them in a sunnier spot. When I said “moved in” I actually meant that I moved in to the home, not that I moved the rose. It is well established and looks like it has been there at least 5+ years. Yes, I did prune the dead canes. Since the center is gone, there really is no crown to prune the other ones towards, but I guess I would just aim for the general shape? I don’t know if I’ll swap them out this year, but eventually I probably will.

My nose isn't the best, but I get a bit of a licorice scent from it.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you, Jason. I had that rose years ago, but it didn't survive, so I wondered. It's a very elegant rose.

Nice. If it's not from below the graft union, it could just be a vigorous new basal shoot (which is a good thing if it becomes productive) or something called a "blind shoot" (a vigorous new shoot that goes straight up but refuses to flower). Pruning them to more closely match the height of the shrub wouldn't be a bad thing either way. You'd expect your rose to rejuvenate from the base over time, and if it continues to send new shoots, you can selectively remove some of the older wood as you go.

Thanks - it looks a little "informal" in pictures, but it's still on my want list

2 ft would be too tight for some varieties for sure. Our old rose field had approximately 4ft by 6ft spacing, and was still quite crowded on the larger varieties. When we transitioned to the new rose field, we knew we wanted to offer more generous spacing, but the actual measurement = 2x the width of our ride-on lawn mower!

The overall long-term answer is to plant your garden with lots of different kinds of plants. The beneficial insects that bring pests under control require diversity of flowers and habitat to thrive.

There's no exact rule about which part of your rose is to build the climbing framework. When you deadhead, one of the nearby lower buds should begin to show new vegetative growth, and if it's a nice long stem going in a good direction, you can train it (preferably horizontally) along to support new flowering side-shoots.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you. I will get a bit more adventurous!

I go with some alfalfa every month or two in the spring, and top up with a little liquid fertilizer in between if they still seem like they need a boost.

Turn on the captions - I've spelled them in the transcript

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thank you I never thought of that.

The first one on the metal arbor is 'Eden' and the one I trained to the wooden fence is 'Rosarium Uetersen'

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thank you so much . I love your videos . They are so informative especially for new rosarians .

Hi Debra. 31F isn't too threatening for most roses, and a little bit of cold can help them to settle them down for the winter. Not a big deal to tuck them in for a bit if you're concerned, but in your climate I'd probably try to overwinter outdoors in a spot sheltered from too much moisture. A little cleanup of any dead, damaged, diseased branches is okay, and you can also strip any diseased foliage as needed - but if they're quite newly established you might not need to do a lot of pruning until they put on some strong growth.

Thanks Ana. That rose is 'Eden' or 'Pierre de Ronsard' depending on the market

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thanks so much!

I leave it outside - zone 8

Enjoy your blooms, and time your next pruning for after they fade.

Hi Sharon. I try to give young (newly planted) roses a little time to establish before I consider much pruning or other corrective action. I don't know your soil (is it fairly alkaline? is that why the sulfur?) but a bit of yellowing on a new plant isn't alarming. The young roots need to establish before they can do a good job of nutrient uptake. If you're happy with the site, soil and drainage in general, I'd just give the rose a bit of time, patience, and regular watering - and leave pruning and feeding until you see signs of strong new growth.

We're zone 8, so the nemerosa varieties are all fully cold hardy here. I find alfalfa pellets do a nice job across a wide range of plants sort of a 2-1-2 equivalent, so fairly balanced.

Hmm. I hope it's not a mix-up. I'd wait to see the next flush of flowers, just to make sure it wasn't just something in the growing conditions.

I've seen my share of wild roses in hedges and roadsides that look quite nice in bloom, and I've also seen them looking wild, brambly, suckering and bare around the knees (which especially stands out when not so distracted by the flowers!). It's not really a matter of either/or - you can appreciate wild roses left to their own size and form, and you can also appreciate the difference judicious pruning and management can make within the context of a garden.

Thanks Rey. Our business is north of the border, so it's challenging to get into the US

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm oh ok thank you for letting me know🙂

Hi Judy. Yes, water and soil chemistry can definitely make a difference. If your water is hard (and sometimes this correlates to a fairly alkaline soil) it can make certain nutrients less available (phosphorus, iron, zinc, boron notably). If you want to be sure, this is one of those times when a soil test may be advisable.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you, I really believe my water is the issue, plus we have clay soil, but I’m almost convinced it the water.💚🙃