lmao I was going to say breath much? no offence to the camera man i just thought it was funny because my dad does that to.

Weakened the wood now you have large Entry points for water to soak in & Destroy your idea. Rusted out pipe will increase the Rotting. Big Waste of time & $$$. Dumbest thing i ever saw.

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I think many people think they'll only be living in their current house for a few years and if the fence falls down, it will be the next owner's problem.

Check out my fence videos. You don't actually have to do it this way although this is one way to do it. I just put 2 and 3/8 galvanized poles in the ground and then I used pressure treated lumber and built boxes around them. They last incredibly long. And if you paint them they will last that much longer. A lot of people don't like the look of pressure-treated lumber that's why I suggest painting them with a solid stain or a textured stain. I don't think you're going to come up with a wooden fence design that can Outlast this, I've never seen it. That way the only thing in the ground is metal and the only thing above ground is wood. In essence the wooden part is just hanging in the air

Brian 716 pressure treated lumber isn't what it used to be. I've seen 4x4 posts rot and break off after being in the ground for less than 4 years

Thanks for the compliment. That bit is fine. That wood was green, it's moisture that smokes out of the wood, it's not burning. I'm still using it after having drilled hundreds of holes. I get it sharpened at a lawnmower shop. I also now use a right angle drill: a Timberwolf. It's a lot stronger

I have a Milwaukee 1/2'' Hog Hawg that I was going to use. That is one nice piece of kit that they came out with.Another thing that I like about your method is that you could use a shorter 4x4 post as well. All in all I like your method about the best for wooden posts. thanks again.

Had a helluva time getting the auger bit,still waiting for it from Amazon. I could only get 1 5/8'' galvanized pipe from a fencing supplier. It came in 21" length but they cut it to 30'' for me but should just fit the 1 3/4" hole with a little play.. Couldn't tell what gauge pipe that you were using but it sounded like schedule 40 [which is what I used] when you hit it. My question to you : Have you used this method on a 6x6 pwf gate post? Thanks again for sharing your method ....should be easy to line the posts up.

These posts can be changed-out. They're secured to the galvanized steel pipe with a galvanized steel bolt, washer and nut. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment on my video,

Fasoldtgardens what if you used aluminum or stainless steal?

Easy replacement of the posts is one of the key advantages. The problem would be trying to hit the holes in the metal tubing while drilling the bolt holes in the replacement posts because you apparently freehanded the holes in the original posts (2:00 +/-). If you used a jig to drill all those bolt holes at reasonably precise and consistent locations (and kept the jig, of course -- or at least a drawing), that would save a lot of time and frustration on "replacement day." Very good job overall!

Check out my fence construction. This is the exact same thing I've done. It's just a different construction method. I put galvanized Post in the ground and then I just made boxes out of two by sixes and two by fours. Essentially just building a framed box around the galvanized pole. He's just drilling a post out and sliding a pole over it. Pretty much the same thing this is the best way you can build a fence. However the video does suck

@@fasoldtgardens9585 you can actually just use teks screws instead of using a Bolt & Nut. They grab very well. And that way you have a flush surface you don't have to worry about a bolt in the way when you're mounting rails and fence boards.

It can't rot, it's not in the ground and will never break.

@@davesaam4308 Bollix its weak as piss.

thepostcollar.com/main_page.html

I've wondered if a Milwaukee switchblade self feeding bit would work better. Just keep adding 7/16" shank extensions as required.

Agree. When the wood is smoking like that the bit becomes dull and inefficient as seen here. The drill is working too hard as well; that might overheat and fail as well.

Lol I liked the jig. Amazing

I agree that the jig is nice but it could have been better it he used a trailer jack. They are mostly designed for fast up and down. And that right there would make it way easier to do the whole in and out without having to turn the handle on that scissor jack so much. trailer jack. One turn you go in about and inch. One turn back. Two turns in deeper. Also I would have put the post at a fourtyfive to let the sawdust fall out. then shoot some air in there every time you back out. Forget the tar. It might help but it might also make it worse. besides the treated wood now adays is way better than the tar was back then. Plus it is treated to the core. I personally wouldn't even do this this way. Now that the most solid part of the post is gone it just made it weak. A good wind will keep pushing and break at the now thinner post sides. Should have put some straps around. Not to mention that thin cheap metal chainlink fence post could just fold right over , specially with that huge gap between post and concrete. 2 to 4 inches max. better yet should have used actual galvanized thick walled pipe. This won't last.

thepostcollar.com/main_page.html

If you use steel, use galvanized, it will outlast you.

I'll tie them to the Zuma scooter and drag them back to the shop. They do have wheels, right?

First thing I noticed about the video.... :)

I had Pneumonia. I didn't have a lot of breath, in fact I could barely breathe.

Lee Mullen sounds like a smoker. They spread their poison without thought or care

+Richard B The pipe length is approximately 30". Around 12 inches goes into the post and around 12" will go into concrete leaving around 6 inches from the bottom of the wood to the soil. So, not part of the wood post is in the ground. Good luck with your project.

omn88

Yeah those augers are supposed to draw themselves in. Lol

LoL

sure.

No it won't.

Pull up the post, put in new pipe, re-concrete. No problem.

Not rust proof. Galvanized pipe will probably rust-through in 700-800 years.

Not by the coast. Some builders do it like this with foam and stucco for walls. If they wrap the foam with a fiber mesh it last about 20 years.

7 to 800 years? Keep the soil away and the might last a hundred. Thats schedule 20 galvy posts?

HI, I grew up in Kent, and know live in Auburn. I'm thinking about purchasing these posts from Everguard Materials. Did you use this method for your fence? And? Thanks!

The tubing shown in this video was galvanized steel, not aluminum. See uploader's response to geshnizusa.

I have been looking at all the listed ideas, and there is no wrapping or covering that works for a post suck into the ground./ all fail. You trap water inside the post that soaks in from the above wood.

No, this type of timber drill is an auger that pulls itself into the timber. It is cutting end grain, the little screw tip on top can't hold against the strain of cutting and clearing the post. Seen many guys over pressure this and clog the drill with waste and jam the bit in the hole. You can end up wrecking a new bit quickly. My concern is the lateral strength of pipe and longevity. I paint the timber post in a bituminous compound three times. No water no problem.

That post will keep the same strength with pipe while wood in the grounf will deteriorate and get weaker.

Wood rots when it's in contact with the microbes in the soil, and especially when the wood retains moisture. When wood is allowed to dry after becoming wet it lasts for a long time. Also, this video depicts the use of Western Red Cedar 4x4 posts. It has naturally rot-resistant properties. Thanks for your comment

Water defies gravity?