Lucky it was only brass. I saw that when editing ++FACEPALM++

I'm sure he was just trying to keep the wear on both sides of the teeth even....I mean the backside of those teeth looked brand new :D

@@blahblahblahblah2933 Good one :)

Thanks for the tip.

@@RotarySMP Nice pun. 😆

@@jnorris8649 :)

Thanks Mark. I was tempted to snap of a tap trying to clean it out too.

Thanks. I wonder if I severed the pins durng disassembly, of they had been like that for years. I certainly didn't feel anything.

@@RotarySMP I was curious as well, and when they didn’t seem to have a specific attachment, and were brass, made me assume they were merely for alignment.

@@johnmccanntruth I think they are just an anti rotation feature to keep the piston from rotating relative to the cylinder (both of which rotate at spindle speed). Were the piston to rotate, theoretically it could adjust the collet pull in force, or release it. Seems like an unlikely case, and the weak anti rotation pins would not be much security. Just thinking about it, as the 8mm pins re loose in 9mm holes, and see significant centripetal force and bending loads at up to 3000rpm, I wonder if they simply fatiqued over the years, and were already broken?

That's actually a good solution - I've done it a couple of times and the grinding of the face is essential to get a good grip. But I don't know if it would work with a "loctited" bolt.

Thanks for the suggestions.

I have no access to drill press, it works freehand in vice and on rigidly mounted elements of car with no disassembly at all :>

Brass is terrible to extract with easy-outs. It just tears apart. Drilling with a tap drill and then rethreading works great and is my go-to solution most times.

@@millwrightrick1 I suspect that Ezeouts work better with increase thread diameter, and increased strength screws. As the core is softer and the threads harder, you might not get as much jamming due to the taper.

Yum. I like ANZAC biscuits.

Sometimes the right story comes to me, sometimes they dont. Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks for the feedback.

Cheap and cheerful, it seems to work fine.

Thanks.

The heat was to soften the locktite. Since Eze-outs dont work well in brass, it was a failure anyay.

@@RotarySMP Failure? Nonsense... Just like Edison, you have now learned one way NOT to remove broken off brass studs that some lummox used loctite on. And, for completeness sake, you followed it up with a way TO remove them. The machining circle of life is complete! From chips it began, to chips it returns.

Yeah, it really is.

Remember this is Swiss quality junk we are talkin about. Not some low quality space debris :)

@@RotarySMP well, it was a pretty cheap meteorite for me to be able to afford it. But on a serious note you massage the blutack till it gets warm then just keep pushing it on to the surface and pulling it off then folding in to expose clean surface

@@Hilmi12 I remember Blu-Tack from school in the 80's, but have never seen it used in Austria. WIll check in a stationary store if the lock down ever ends.

@@RotarySMP Well, the stationary store won't be going anywhere :-)

@@andypughtube Yeah. Me neither.

Yeah, that Schaublin design is really nice. I also like that you can remove the pull tube whle leaving the rest installed, freeing up the full 36mm bore. On the Boley, to open up the full 23mm bore, you have to remove the entire collet closer system.

@@RotarySMP The best feeling is when you make your first batch of parts by running only one program.

Thanks for that recommendation. Not sure if you can still get Snap-on over here?

Other recommended a soldering iron, but since eze-outs dont work well with brass, it was pretty academic. Drilling out was better for this case.

Oh, good point. I didn't think of that.

Yeah I came here to say it was probably a thread sealant. Loctite 577 or similar.

@@jonathan1427 Thanks for that feedback.

Thanks for the feedback. You know, it is really not that easy to get the gunk out of their. :)

We obviously need a dedicated compilation video of the process, when it's done.

@@RotarySMP I say for the final cleaning stage you find someone to lend you a portable atmospheric plasma cleaner

@@HuskyMachining That sounds like a flux capacitor. Need to google that. But since I have never heard of it, I am sure no one I know has one. If any of my mate bought a tool like that...everyone would know about it.

I wonder if a ‘waterpik’ like device shooting acetone at the crevices would work 🤓

Thanks for the feedback.

@@RotarySMP my pleasure

Slowly, but it any progress is good.

The rubber stunk a bit when burnt.

But not getting any cleaner. ANother 20 in the series, and it will be clean or worn through.

yep, that is what happened.

Guess welding is more like how I do it today. No clue, but I guess this could work :)

@@RotarySMP never done any other kind of welding 😂

Obrigado. É um mecanismo bem feito. No 125-CCN posterior, a mudança para um pistão de 2 estágios de diâmetro menor.

Thanks. I wont remove that plate. That would feel like admitting defeat. :) Thanks for the feedback.

True, but I was too lazy to set one up but the carbide inserts were already set up. You can see in the relief groove how much nicer the finish was.

I have had that tip before. If the lock down ends, I can see if the stationary store hs blutac. I have my doubts though. That gunk is like kryptonite.

@@BloopTube It does, but the minimum price of anything in Amazon always seems to end up as €10, which would be steep for a little bluetack.

I wont be leveling the manual lathe, as I will sell it. I will level the Schaublin once it is finished though.

@@RotarySMP id gets you to bring it down under when you head home, yet it would hardly be economical. Speaking of which, don't forget when you are in the southern hemisphere that, thongs go on your feet 🤣

I did consider it. :)

Ouch. True though. The industry often sticks with technologies which other industries long dropped.

Thanks for watching.

Darn, you noticed :/ I saw it in editing.

@@RotarySMP I only noticed because i have made the exact same mistake. You got away with it in brass, but with steel you get NOIIIIISSSSEEEE and a ruined blade :(

@@folxam Very careless of me.

@@RotarySMP build from experience, learn from mistakes :)

Maybe better than a candle :)

@@RotarySMP I bought soft, nylon brushes intended to use with cordless drill, set of three. I think, that they are great for this kind of job, as they are not able to remove anything but dirt. They are cleaning great everything around home, anyway

@@poprawa Do they get into the really tight cranny's? This is highly tenacious Swiss gunk. Unimpressed with everything I have thrown at it so far.

Thanks for the kind feedback.

That room currently has Maho/Boley/Clarkson and oven sharing that plug. As the Maho causes flickering in SWMBO office, and there is a well pump with a separate service out to the gate, one of the (endless) list of to-do's is to rewire that room onto the pumps service and add more sockets. If I do a "temporary solution" like a Y cable, you know where that ends.

@@RotarySMP Nothing so permanent as a working temporary solution.

I use YT free music, but dont really notice the names. I more look for certain genre or mood.

@@RotarySMP while I never disliked anything you've used before, I liked the style of this one. Just noted it in case someone else might like it. If it's not too much effort, can you include the music used in the description (extra effort award - "Fleißsternchen" - if you include the timestamps)? I bet not just the artists would love that.

@@HAGmbHkeG I tried doing that for a while, but music is always the last thing I add, and that is normally late on saturday night, so it can render and upload while I sleep. Sunday I have to do the thumb and description etc, so I guess I can try, but but wont promise it.

Did you have any issues getting the touch function to work? I was looking at the RS-232 to USB cables, and they may need a driver, but also saw reports that this seems a basic installed component in Linux these days.

@@RotarySMP yes you need to download the driver from 3M website. You input the screen model and download it. I am running window though

It is a better disgn than the Boleys one as well. If you are not using collets and need to open up the full 36mm through hole, you just need to unscrew the pull tube. On the Boley, you have to remove the entire mechanism.

Thanks. I think I have a big soldering iron somewhere.

@@RotarySMP even a normal one will work for most smaller fastners.

@@DoRC Great tip thanks.

I was just thinking the same thing. I have a wood burning iron too, which would probably work too.

@@globalns I am picturing a medieval torture device with a wood fire up near it's tip. :)

Obrigado por seu apoio.

It is fun, watching and chatting at the same time. I'll do it again.

I briefly considered it, but a broken home made tap, in the piston would have sucked even worse.

@@RotarySMP but then there'd be the opportunity to make a home made broken tap removal tool, and several iterations after that a home made piston.

Welcome. Thanks for joining.

You can buy from Fixmetal, but their prices are terrible. It is often cheaper to buy from Ebay.de. Sad.

I already pulled it of once.

Thanks.

Thanks for the feedback.

:) Sorry to keep you waiting.

Danke, Ich bin zwa kein Österreicher, aber schon eine der Hier lebt. Ein KZfaq Kanal wo ich nur Bier trinker wäre Wahrscheinlich nichts :)

@@RotarySMP naja wäre vll. mal lustig. ein Bier für die Maho! für mich bist du ein Österreicher, egal woher du kommst.

Good idea. Worth a try.

@@RotarySMP :)

Do you mean the rotating bearing on the end of the spindle with the air fittings? Sorry, I didn't disassemble that one.

@@RotarySMP No worries, thanks for the reply.

I got them from Sinntec... www.sinntec.de/Drehgelenk-freibeweglich-steckbar

I have pretty much finished disassembly, so that was all of it.

The piston and the cylinder rotate together, so there should be no relative motion. I can only imagine that they are to prevent the piston rotating and allowing the collet closer to back out. But the huge clearance untypical for Schaublin.

Thanks.

You are probably right. I was on the wrong thought path there.

They are B32 collets.

@@RotarySMP Didn't know those exist! they look almost identical ! Could you make a video about collets ?

@@micheldelsem7022 That is a good idea. Collets are like fungus. Once you start looking closely, you find that they are everywhere in your shop :)

There is no point doing a kit, as every DIY CNC conversion is different. Everyone has different budgets, ideas, goals, basis machines etc. Luckily the support in the forum is brilliant.

@@RotarySMP Maybe Linux CNC is all about the futzing ...

@@petera1033 I think that is the Linux culture.

If the image is in the wrong place, that has nothing to do with the touch digitizer. The display panel will have a control module. If you open up the housing and look up the part number on the control board, they are often available cheap on ebay.

@@RotarySMP it is a whole monitor, the kind they put in like ATMs and cash registers, it is brand new, the model is ELO ET1537L

@@DolezalPetr ELO are pretty common. Open it and and take a look. I doubt there is much you cn do for it other than replace the control board though.

@@RotarySMP I checked the inside a long time ago, I though the capacitors are bad, but everything looked brand new and all capacitors and other parts I could meassure checked perfect, so I think the monitor works as it should, I think it has to do something with Xrandr in Linux

@@DolezalPetr When I set up the touch screen for the Maho, I had to install pacakges and calbrate it to get the touch working, but the display was plug and play.

Sorry to slow you down. :)

I watched in the metro going to the workshop 😂

@@RotarySMP I am multitasking, watching the video and turning parts on the lathe

@@DolezalPetr How that doesnt go sideways :)

@@RotarySMP You have to be carefull but it works 😅

Yes. It is thread locking method. Very positive locking, so it will never back out. They put a lot of work into that nut.

Very cool. Unique way to do it.

@@CNCWerks I think they are not uncommon in high end machine building.

Not long now.

What a beast. I m not sure my whole house is 8m long.

Worth a try.

I am pretty sure I could break a locking wire pretty easily just by turning with a wrench, loctite no chance it would break loose. Is there something more to it?

Might be. You set the clamping force with the Oneumatic pressure. There is a px v force chart in the manual.

@@MF175mp Vibration is not a wrench. Lockwire does not tend to break. The primary locking of any screw is friction from the torque, but if that fails, and the screw comes loose, lock wire will stop it backing out. Locktite on the threads just increases that friction, but if it fails, there is then nothing to stop the screw backing out.

Finally a subject I know something about. Actually, the primary locking is preload which is developed by bolt stretch. Yes, preload develops friction at the threads, but if you have a short stiff bolt (high relative spring rate), there will be very little stretch in the bolt for the maximum preload that can be applied for its size. Now add a little vibration and the bolt unthreads just a little and all preload is lost. The only thing lock wire does then is retain the fractured bolt head as there is insufficient tension possible in the lock wire to prevent the minor rotation that released the preload. Lock wire is useful in many instances, especially if you have a long slender bolt that stretched quite a bit while preloading. The lock wire tension will eventually stop the bolt from further unthreading before all preload is lost. Aerospace hates locktite for many reasons….. but the one I heard all the time was it’s difficult to control where it goes and how much is applied (aerospace expects consistency). Look around in aero applications and you’ll see many instances where several small fasteners are used when clearly one large fastener was strong enough. Problem is you can’t stretch that large diameter bolt and that kind of joint is more likely to fail in that flying vibration machine. 👍👍😎👍👍

@@joell439 Thanks, that is an excellent explanation. I know Automotive only uses thread locking. So would the design for longer fasterners where ever possible, to get a long extension?

Thanks for investnig that time here.

NIco just picked up his share :)

@@RotarySMP the logical way

Yeah. Glad I didnt get impatient and screw it up this time.

@@RotarySMP yep

Thanks, I appreciate that.

@@RotarySMP No Problem. I thing i got him to watch the whole series :D

@@BigManko Good one. Thanks.

Schaublin didn't do any half measures on this machine. Belt and suspenders all the way.

You are not wrong. Maybe I am trying to file off the serial number?

Thanks for the feedback.

Sorry about the disappointment. Never tried that YT premiere feature before.

It is a through hole, so it doesnt really matter what side it got drilled from.

@@RotarySMP Think about it`s direction of rotation. It would of "unscrewed it`s self" coming from the other side if you get lucky and it grabs. You can normally just get away with normal R/H drill bits. Its worked very very well for me over the years. I used to have a lovely set of L/H drill bits and stud extractors for when a through hole was not an option.

@@harezy A RH thread is a RH thread. Regardless which side of the plate is up.

@@RotarySMP I don't think you quite understand what I mean. As you drill it out from the broken stub side you will do up the thread making it tighter. Drilling from the other side is effectively like undoing it. The drill will try to spin the stub in an undoing fashion hopefully unscrewing it's self saving the need for the extractor.

​@@harezy One of us has a issue visualising this. I hope it is not me :) This is a through hole, with a RH thread and the drill is turning clockwise. The systen is symmetrical in the sense that regardless which side is up, turning clockwise will drive the screw down. It makes no difference from which side you drill, were the drill to break the screw loose, the screw would would rotate clock wise (with the drill) and fall out the bottom of the plate.

THanks.