It's called a _boom vang_ . If you kids want to change pre-existing vernacular, you might as well call the bow the front, the stern the back, port left, and right for starboard.

@the-naked-sailor Even Wikipedia states Vang (USA), Kicking strap (UK). This is a UK series so thanks for the lecture and up your transom!

Sorry, we don't have the 200 anymore 😔

@@MozzySails That’s a shame!

Do you remember how your kicker was setup though?

200 has gone now. I do have a few rs200 boat bimble videos on my channel which cover any unique bits from my set up and are pretty up to daye

Just tying with some 1.5mm dyneema kitekine

It's been 3 months, I don't think he gives a shit.

We never adjust them on the water, it's just something you set and forget. They just need the purchase because as they don't get to the chain plates on the gunwales you need another way of adding tension as the boat breaker doesn't do it

You can kind of guess at it by thinking about the purchase and how hard you pull the control. Most lines on a dinghy you wouldn't need more than 1 or 2mm, but you have to be careful with fixing points as a small bit of chafe will soon cut through a 1mm line... we had 1.8mm trap line and I broke one at the terminal which wasn't perfectly rounded.

1) With modern dyneema it's pretty hard to get near the breaking loads, the main limit on line size is either what's bearable to handle at a given tension and chafe at fixings (maybe halyards stretch comes in to play). So we started from the principal that everything we didn't handle would be 2.5mm, which is really the thinnest dyneema outside kite line then focused on making sure our attachments and systems were clear of chafe. 2) The elastic is relatively tight so we've not had any issues yet. It's early days though as that's new on this boat. 3) Standard sheave, don't really need more hold on the line.

She was really ready for a sail, caught her just in time! Helms changes have been interesting, but I honestly though Abu Dhabi was a bit dull with it being so light. Cream still rises to the top, but it's hard to tell much about the rest in those conditions

@@MozzySails agreed - Sail GP lost its way?? course layout choices lead to a sad precession...

You're right, I wouldn't fancy trying to change it with a flapping sail on the water. However for us the jib clew is always on the middle hole. We change the tack height of the jib on the bow to change the jib sheeting angle (similar to 49ers). So this soft shackle is something we attach onshore and then leave.

they are the kite sheets, but I didn't have the kite rigged

Good suggestions.. 1) there isn't a block on the tack line, but maybe you mean the launch line block hidden in the bow? Main restriction here is just the space in the bow. Could maybe up the sheave from 20-30mm though. 2) SK78 is quite a bit cheaper and has similar elongation characteristics as SK99 just a lower break load. So anywhere you're not getting close to breaking load there's not a huge advantage to SK99. If we went any thinner on the line to get closer to breaking loads then we'd be using kite line and I think that only comes in SK78 though? 3) Our jib halyard is still a standard double braid, but we've changed the main halyard over to 3mm dyneema and have done exactly this to get it to still cleat well. Good tip! 4) The bottom eye tends to hit the gooseneck pretty quick, so we end up just running it through the top eye. Unless you can think of some way to rig it so it pulls the bottom eye initially then the top eye after that? 5) It;'s 3mm sk78 going over the top block in the cascade, which doubles over would break at just under 2,000kg! The soft shackle is made from 3mm sk78 as well, which with a well made soft shackle will get around 150%, so rope wise at 1,500kg you're right, that's probably the weak link. However, the TiiTAN block in the middle is 1,250kg break load. 3mm doubled over is pretty much the thickest dyneema I can get through TiiTAN block for the boom strop anyways. I reckon we'd be lucky to be getting 400kg on that block with a 16:1 anyways. Would be interesting to put a load cell there and see. 6) Noted on vang line colour! 7) Yeah, it's a nice ascending sequence

Comprehensive 1. Yea the one at the bow, the tack/pole launching block, point taken but biggest radius and no windage or weight hit 2. I mean 99max which is the pre-stretched version. Point taken on price. Where stretch/creep matters, you'll notice a difference, eg tack line 3. Closed 4. Point taken, I would've thought I'd you go bottom eye first then back to a block then back to cuno and down then it would just bottom out when it bottoms out but keep operating the cuno. I don't know the boats so I'm not sure if this is possible. 5. Fair point 6./7. Nice

Btw if the halyards are hidden in the mast and you don't have a lock, may as well run 6mm sk99 max, since there's no real windage or weight penalty.

Are you allowed titanium? Assume you are, if you're running Ti blocks, in which case swap out all the 316 for Ti, screws, bolts, nuts etc is not expensive and a decent weight gain.

A lot of windage in that cap shroud system, be nice to see that taken into/onto the deck

The low-friction rings still have quite a bit of friction, especially where you have 180 degree angle change. So for things that move a lot, we usually go for blocks. For lines that don't move often, or very far, then rings are a great weight and money saving alternative which is often stronger to and needs less maintenance.

@@MozzySails Yep, I agree with your interpretation; it is correct that there's less friction on a block when it spins fast under a small load. I am unable to find the answers when the block is under an important load and moves slowly; that's why you probably chose metal ones. I imagine that it also has self-aligning linear bearings...but is it not overkill for small diameters? As the line gets smaller, the block also becomes a small radius, losing some of that wanted low friction; maybe mall rings with relatively small holes but wider radius could be better?

Hey Alex, I think you're maybe right but they offer some piece of mind in marginal calls. The jib is 4:1. So if I am pulling a max of 20kg, then load on the sheet will be ~80kg, however the two blocks with high load sheaves in the jib system are turning points on the sheet, so take 2x80 =160kg. That's well over the working load for a plastic sheave at 20mm (115kg). Even the 30mm block on the jib car, a plastic sheave is 140kg MWL. The breaking loads are fine in both these cases, but regularly working over the max working load will cause the blocks to fail early. Upping the spec to a steel HL sheave does come with a price and weight penalty (~10g / ~£15 per block) but I know I won't have to replace these blocks as frequently. I think the block that is probably overkill is the XHL for the pole launch. When hoisting the kite there isn't much load and I think you would be fine with a plastic sheave with a MWL of 115kg. However, they get loaded once the kite fills and that's quite a hard load to quantify and will have big peaks slamming in to waves / gusts. Nevertheless, that XHL is rated for 900kg break and 400kg MWL which i think is extreme and would rip the deck eye out of the bow long before we saw those loads. That's an expensive block to at £122, so you could save £90 and 4grams by going to tie on with the steel HL sheave which has a break of 540 and MWL of 250kg. Honestly, this was a block that I got for another purpose, but then didn't use and I couldn't bear to have such a beautiful bit of kit lying around, so now it's lying in our bow like a like golden nugget. I think the kicker blocks are appropriately specked. You could maybe switch the top block in the cascade to a 30m single Tii with the HL sheave. Breaking load at 800kg would be fine, however I do think with a 16:1 purchase, pulling like 30kg you would be getting over the MWL quite often. There is an argument here that you could save a heap of weight and money by going for a alloy thimble. That does come with more friction though and I am literally pulling the kicker as hard as I can sometimes and added friction would the tension I am ultimately able to get to the sail cloth.

pulling 20kg on jib is maybe an over estimate, maybe it's more like 15, and then there would be friction loses in the cascade, so potentially 50kg at the sheet and 100kg on the turning blocks. It's marginal though and I know from experience if I put plastic sheave blocks in those places they only last a couple of seasons. These steel sheaves will outlast my ownership of the boat and I don't have to worry about them blowing up during a regatta

Yeah see what you mean. Definitely agree for vang primaries given all the purchase.