Once the pads are primed, only 2-4 drops is needed at that point when doing small sections the size of about 6x the pad. Our guess is that people go with the the middle option of 3 drops!

With a more lubricated product anything more than about four dots is just going to make a mess. The 3D line is a great example of a highly lubricated line. AAT502, ONE, ACA500 all only require a few drops to start, and one or two to reload.

The throw of a tool doesn't effect the results, it's typically the polish and pad combination used that affects the results the most. The throw of the tool can affect the level of cut and the size of the panels that can be tackled.

It works best with the RUPES tools, however people have used them on forced rotation tools and liked how they performed still

If using a rotary, use a wool cutting pad with a heavy cut compound then follow with the foam using a finishing polish.

@@danlc95 which brand is good bro how about the microfiber pad you try already?

​@@dennisarcega837I used to use the Meguiar's W4000 wool when I used a rotary. Sometimes I'd used their maroon foam cutting pad. I wouldn't recommend microfiber on a rotary buffer. If you want to use microfiber on a random orbital tool, I prefer the Uro-Fiber to cut. But I've since switched to the Rupes yellow and blue wool pads. My most used paint correction liquids are 3D ONE and 3D ACA500. I also love Meguiar's M110, M205 (yeah that 205 can cut), Jescar Correcting Compound, and Jescar Medium. Nine out of ten times I'm using the 3D.

No colours are brand dependent sadly

severe damage may require heavy artillery to tackle so in that case MF or wool. A well maintained car ( 1 in a 1000) or new may get away with foam. is basically what the video is on about test spot and some logical thinking based on the cars history and measurements.

If I understood what was in the video correctly pad choice would be based on what your test section produced. It would appear that a foam pad is the least aggressive at cutting and a micro fiber is the most aggressive with wool landing in the middle. So using the video as an example if the wool pad didn’t cut all the defects out the next step would have been to move to the yellow compound with the micro fiber pad. If that didn’t work next step would have been blue foam with blue compound.

@@Stevesadventures69 Correct, however the yellow wool it may be the same or a notch higher in the cut from the coarse foam pad. So instead of the foam you could use the yellow wool based on the test spot results agreement with client end result combined with critical thinking on your behalf to deliver it

​@@Stevesadventures69Some companies have wool over microfiber for top end cut. The Buff and Shine Uro-Wool and Lake Country low lint wool to be specific.

Right now I'm usually using wool to cut. The reason is the ability to cut efficiently on painted plastics. I've run into situations where my heavy cut on heavy cut microfiber pads did almost nothing to remove defects. In this situation where my compound and heavy cut microfiber failed, the medium cut and wool got the job done in short order. It might be different for others, but that's been my experience. I'm mostly using foam for polishing and finishing. I'm going to give that really stiff blue rupes foam another go here soon. I had a hard time using the Rupes DA Coarse. Great cutter, too much dust.

What vehicle? Orginal paint or respray?

@@JimmySSuccess respray

Orange peel is usually wet sanded and then compounded and polished. But these days the new microfiber or wool pads cut really fast. I'd wetsand with something safe like 3,000 grit and a block on the large areas. In this video he said he used 3,000 grit sandpaper to scuff up the paint (for his demo). This setup he used took out the marks from the 3,000 grit.