I've been building models since 1959, and was one of Testor's biggest supporters, but with what is happening with them after their purchase by Rustoleum, I've started changing to Tamiya. I have also started using my air brush more, but I'm lazy and don't like the cleanup after painting. I've watched your videos and articles for a long time, and have always felt comfortable with your advice and tutorials. I also do dioramas, two of which have been buildings of substantial size, one a car dealership and one a large garage/machine shop. Because of cost, I'd considered using Rustoleum on them, but instead, I went the extra expense and used Tamiya and Testors paints. This was the right choice, as using products made for the intended purpose results in intended quality. I ended up with some enjoyable dioramas instead of several hundred dollars worth of wasted plastic. Maybe I'm just old and set in my ways, but I'm a huge believer in using products designed for their intended purpose. Thanks you and keep posting these videos.

Everybody’s trying to save a buck instead of listening to us old guys that learned a long time ago that trying to save a buck will cost you in the end

Glad I ran across this blog. I’ve been having that problem for a year and nobody but you had an answer! Thanks for sharing! 😎

Im new to this hobby and have ruined my first two models with Rustolium 2x Clear. At first I thought I had done something wrong but turns out its just the paint. I used Tamiya primer and Tamiya paint then went over it with the Rustolium clear to make it shiny but it ate away the paint and even some of the primer and left the surface of the plastic with a grainy and bumby texture all over. Thank you for doing this video. Really helps new people like me not make more mistakes.

Thanks Don great video thank you I fell in that rustoleum trap following a u tube person who will remain anonymous but you probably know whom I referred to I used many of his recommendations and they were great failures you are a godsend to modelers with your information I have purchased your latest videos and follow them always Thank you!!!!!

All I'll say about the paint topic is this; since I got away from hardware store paints & went with strictly Tamiya primer (fine, white), colors, and clears, my modeling enjoyment has GREATLY improved!

Great advice on Rustoleum. 2k however is the mildest clear out there. Very safe over decals and will never damage/eat into paint/plastic.

I’m watching this video for the second time. You are absolutely correct about the Rustoleum paint, and the same for the Krylon paint. I have had several models turn out great, but I have had a few go to crap. It’s just not worth the money you save with those paints, because you end up stripping the model and buying the correct paint. Now, I have had success all of the time with their primers. Thanks for sharing.

Thank You Sir I'm just getting back into scale model building for the first time in years. I have been doing a lot of reading and youtube video watching and thank god I came across your channel about Rustoleum paints. these days it all seems to be all about Tamiya, Tamiya, Tamiya. You just got to go with what works best in this day and age of model building. Testors just isn't the standard that it once was. Thank You so much from a new subscriber with big thumbs up!

thank you mr. yost on the tip of stripping a model car body work great

I've got a 67 Gto model I'd love to get a set of Craiger wheels for . Do you have any videos on how to do a two-tone paint job or how to do ralley strips on a car ?

Would u recommend automobile real paint on a model kit car? I wanna get the same paint and should I air brush it or spray paint it comes in both

Rip Donn. I hope your life partner, Jake can find peace.

I built models for years with Rust-Oleum with no issues as long as you clean the parts first with Simple Green.

What do you recommend for small 1 64 scale diecast I just want it for small details like front and rear lights 🏎️

Hey I've watched a lot of your videos. Learned a lot. Since August I've been building model cars. Out of 11 kits I only so far kept 3 which passed to be professional builds. I tried using model car paint and it wasn't balsy enough. I use regular spray paint, mainly rustoleum and I get the most durable incredible finish out of them. I bake it and wait a week or more until the plastic rehardens then freeze them so the plastic contracts and it works great. Then again I'm a weirdo. Thanks for your videos

Main right on point of this information for me is. Cost of paint vs cost of today's kits. This is not 1965 any longer, kits are not $1.50. Spend the extra for good paint! Yes I'm that old, buildings kits since early 60's when kids built the models and you showed finished builds to your dad, not dads showing kids like today.

I've learned my lesson. I've been buying Tamiya primer and you are correct. It is worth the investment.

Great videos, Just wondering where I can get the yellow color that you used to paint the 1/8 Jaguar E-type that you had on some of your previous videos. I can’t seem to find the proper yellow color. I love the color you painted your Jag with. Can you tell me what it is and where I can get it? Thank you

Do you still recommend using Model Master's Metalizer Lacquers as a protective coat?

If you make a mistake have Super Clean on hand. Its about $10 for a gallon. Pour some in a large enough container and let the model soak. Use a toothbrush to help remove the paint every hour or so. It may leave a little bit on the model but you will primer it anyway. Just did it last night.

Love ur advice.... wishing the models here in Canada were a little cheaper everywhere I go its 40 to 50$$ I have spent tones on ebay

I haven't tried this yet but if you use an undercoat that is harmless to styrene, then can you use Rustoleum?

I wonder have you ever try splash paints if so what are your thoughts on them? Me and my son have channel he is 13 has ADHD but this helps him focus

I've noticed these new model car kits their plastic doesn't hold up well when i use break fluid to remove their paint. I bought a few used built model cars off ebay and of course the car wasn't painted well. So i opened a bottle of break fluid and i come a few minutes later and it actually started to melt the plastic so im standing there confused im looking at my break fluid bottle and nothing has changed and the model kit was made in 2019 so im guessing its the type of plastic their using so anyone who uses this method you may want to use a different method if the car was made in 2019.

Funny to hear mention of Jim here. He's a great guy. Thank you!!! Thank you!! for addressing this!!! I can't count how many times I have told modelers over the past 30+ years new and old not to use Krylon and Rustoleum to this very day!!! Now you've got KZfaqr's with channels on here, "you know who you are", that solely use this crap and the beginners then take that as gospel in turn doing the same exact thing. Then they come onto the forums, Facebook, etc complaining and wondering why they have issues.

Knowing how you paint your personal models, I would totally agree with you about the Rust-O-leum paints. The same thing happens when using hotter automotive lacquer paints. Since you don't use any barrier paints between the plastic and paint, what are your thoughts on that aspect of painting? Using a primer before using hotter paints that will eat into the plastic?

I use duplicolor perfect match, Dries fast, no runs, and it dries hard.

I can second this. Just getting into modeling and of course went for cheap Rust-Oleum right off the bat! Talk about orange peel! I even warm the can up, thin coats etc. It's not made for plastic! Lol now I will say it works for me on interiors so far for a base coat but I will never put it on another body. No way! Love your videos! Very helpful. Going to get your DVDs soon.

Nd Mr.yost ur models r amazing 👌👍

I always wondered why HPI guys workshop uses floor polish rather than 2k clear for his finishes. he uses rustoleum exclusively for his models. on my monitor they actually look pretty good if your not planning on entering a contest. Thanks for your excellent commentary....

what a nice man and he works with you on any problem you may have with your model car thank you

I have had zero issues with Rustoleum. Although I haven't planned on or needed to strip any paint. I'm currently doing a 1960 Chevy Apache and the Turquoise Rustoleum 2x is working quite well. Bought the paint mainly to match a stock color that was discontinued by Model Master. Anyways! Just throwing my 2 cents in; Haven't had any issues with Rustoleum and my Chevy is looking great. Cheers! 🤘🏻

I have had nothing but horrible experience with Rustoleum. I now only use Testors or Tamiya

Ahhh, I do miss watching these videos old man. I’m sorry to hear about the legends passing. I had no idea. I’ve had trouble keeping up with the hobby in recent years due to unexpected events. I still plan on jumping back on the train when I can work all this crap out and have free time again. I smell a rebirth of the KZfaq channel here soon. Keep an eye out. Glad to see you’re still at it. Oh yeah, ai may need to get a hold of that new dvd. Have a great one sir. -Salute-

What about using it for painting diecast cars?

Re-coat time can be a problem as well as paint type interaction. Test paints and primers before committing. 2X seems to have a problem if no primer is used on model kits like it flash dries with a static line running through somewhere but some spots that look ok. Someone mentioned that it will cover too heavy and obscure details, yes there is that.

thanks for the tip ... no mo rustoleum ... ive been thinking going airbrush....

man i been looking for cargar wheels for look time where do you get your at that are chrome can you help i love the old school wheels

i like using tamiya spray can and primer

I've used Rust-Oleum on car bodies, sometimes I get a good paint job, most times not.

This is the first of your videos I have seen and you've captured my attention. You're laid back, not bombastic, no death metal music to contend with and you spoke matter-of-factly about the subject. I'm one of those that was attracted by the ultra large cans of Krylon. It's been a hassle in a few instances and good in a couple. I went to Krylon after being disappointed by Testors. Painting from a spray can has been pretty much of a crapshoot for me. I guess Tamiya is going to be next on my list, using Hobby Lobby's 40% off coupons.

Never had a problem with Rustoleum brush paint on metal furniture. I am a outdoor model railroader & have only used Krylon spray paint to paint freight cars. Never had a problem spraying Krylon on plastic styrene 1:20.3 scale model freight cars. They still hold up under all kinds of weather. In my HO club Krylon is used on large buildings, e.g. steel mills, coking plants, sky scrapers, etc... No problems on plastic. No paint smell (Krylon also makes a water based paint). Krylon also has a UV resistant clear coat, great for outdoor models.

It really depends on the chemical makeup of said paint.. a lot of acetone base paints will melt the plastic.. That being said, with the right primer down first you can remedy this issue but imo its better to use enemals and lacquers made for plastics. Takes any guess work out.

I’m starting to get back in to model car building as I’m retired finally. I have a kit that sat on a shelf for 30+ years that I started on as my first project. I, having past experience with Rustolium running even when lightly sprayed, and since it was the brand of choice at my local hardware store, stupidly decided to try it. HUGE mistake! Turned out so bad that I found a kit like it for $10.00 that at least had the body in it and am going to follow your advise on this one.

I love that van. I have one also! Yeah! Lol

I could not agree more. People practice false economies and have a poor understanding of paint chemistry. Thanks for your wise words.

Very well said, could not agree more, that stuff causes crazing like mad.

I use PPG and house of kolor automotive paints on my large scale builds

What about metal diecast cars is Rust-Oleum good for that

I use rustoleum and i have never had a problem and used floor shine afterwards about a day after and the results have been great,one thing i can say is that i wonder if these people who has had a problem with the paint actually washed the parts first with degreaser and then let the parts dry.

I use Tamiya or duplicolor or model masters. I don't have an airbrush. I learned my lesson on Rust-Oleum a few times. Lol.

I use Rustolium paint all the time on the kits and styrene scratch build models I do (99% of the time, fire engines) and to date, the only problem I've had was on one kit, the Trumpeter 2002 American LaFrance Pumper. And the problem turned out to be a bad valve on the can. Instead of spraying out in a nice even mist, it 'spit' out droplets along with the mist. Yeah, it took a few hours (actually almost a week, about an hour a night, of removing the paint from the body using anything that would get it off, but in the end, the paint job on that $89.00 kit came out almost flawless. Works for me so that's what I use. Now.....the price of these kits today...that's another story!!! I remember when a 'decent' kit ran around $20-$30 new. Now, 20 yrs later, ya can't get a reissue of the same kit for under $50 if you are lucky!!!!!!

I almost bought a can today as an emergency out for a Blackburn Buccaneer and I’m glad I didn’t. I’ll just wait until the Hobby store opens lol

I've used rustoleum primer and crystal clear lacquer with Holts automotive paint and never had issues. Wouldn't use rustoleum colours on a kit though

What about rustolium sandable primer?

I seen this going on every weekend. Good call . use paint made for modeling.

So now that Testor’s is out…so I’ve heard and I’ve ordered you’re 4 videos and I believe that’s the paint you use or used! So what paint are you using now in 2022?

Krylon Crystal Clear works fine. Actually if you know what you're doing virtually all clear coats work well.

Tamiya & Testors always works well for me.

I am new to the Hobby...i have used some non model paint....ignorance my excuse and my normal hobby shop forced to close During lockdown..... Not Rustoleum but another big brand..... the paint was fine for a few weeks but did crack in no time.... thankfully i was planning on stripping it anyway.... the plastic ok thankfully...but who knows what would have happened if i had let it say on the bodyshell longer...proves your point anyway.... thank you.

Man, I just had this happened to...Building my version of Kye Kelly's Shocker 83 NPK Camaro..Use Rust-Oleum gloss black. Got issues with my hood

OMG you are right! I used Rustoleum because I heard it was great for plastics, used it to paint a tamiya body and an airsoft rifle... big mistake!! I couldn't work out why it *reacted* like acid on the plastic. I'd spray it on, very light coat, it looked great, then 30 seconds later I'd look at what I'd sprayed, and while drying it had EATEN into the paint, like acid, with little bubbles coming up on the surface, cracks, etc. Since then I switched to airbrushing with regular glass bottle paints, never had same issue.

Maybe you should do a special on paint and show the msds sheet on percentages of volatile components compared to good model paint.

Another thought after seeing this very informative video. It's a good one. Interesting note on disappearing modelers with age. I'll just say this... 1965..."Son to Dad, look at this model I finished! 2020...Dad to Son, look at this model I finished! Stop price gouging these kits! Bring back affordable kit prices and interest back to youths. When were gone so is this hobby!

100% agree NO Big cans! I will use spray Testors or Tamiya for under body, interiors and such, usually air brush the body work always the best results with the most control..

Well said. It will also damage small parts. Use bulk acrylic paints to shad your colors.

My experience with painting styrene models has evolved to where I use normal automotive paints for exterior colors and totally stay away from the slow drying solvent reduced paints without a catalyst. With proper surface preparation I have zero issues with it and have the added bonus of the paint for a Candy apple red 1969 Mustang being actually and correctly that color. Modern catalyst paint systems are perfect for exterior color finishes in 95% of cases

Would love to hear your opinion on reduced nail polish. Just moved into an apartment, so looking at my options to keep smell down and can't use automotive grade paints right now. My paint booth doesn't work THAT good lol

Never had 2k clear eat into any paint

Canadian here...What type of paint is Rustoleum?...Enamel?

Hi Don what is your go to primer

Hello my friend im Ray from Malta you are Master of Models i make car too i wish i me in USA to meet you thank my friend

I tested this theory with an Epoxy Gloss Coat, Worst mistake of my lifetime, it dulled the paint and melted the plastic, thank goodness i got a repair piece coming in!!

Rustoleum burned me once. I switched over to Duplicolor or similar automotive urethanes. Never looked back and no paint issues.

I gave up on spray cans long ago, just because it was a waste of paint. Ridiculous amount of overspray from most spray cans. Createx water based paints work great for everything. Even rc. Thin them correctly, use the uvls uv resistant clear. Pretty much on par with 2k clear, and cleans up with just water. Anyone who airbrushes, ya need to give it a try!

Subscribed 🤜🤛

Geez i didn't know people were still doing this , my wife bought me 2 kits for Christmas I didn't know they still existed . And dang what happened to the 6 dollar kits lol 30 dollars now . I'm gonna give it a try again been 30 years lol

Dont forget to trash Duplicolor to while your at it. LOL. I tried a metalic once from Duplicolor and got it super shinney ...but man you could see a heavy texture under the gloss. Ya know...people can make anything work but is really worth the extra effort? Love the Tamiya stuf. In a lot of cases you won't even need primer. Any hardware store product you wouldn't even think about not using primer.

hpiguys workshop channel, he uses it on the outside of the body? And his looks perfect? I don’t get it?

I use rustoleum primer, for clear I’ve been using Krylon. I use them on the “cheaper” kits $30 range. For the larger 50+ I use Mr, Color.

Part 2..Issues with hood & body..I've used Rust-Oleum Ultra paint before & no issue..I've restripped both once & said no again..Since this model is for me to see in my house Im going to live with it..From now on I'll stick to Tamiya paints for body & hood.

Very true I use a lot of auto paint and jim Pardini good man I deal with him all the time

Yeah,I've never used Rustoleum on models. Rustoleum does work well on wood too...just not on plastic model kits great video! Thanks!

Thank brotherthis helps so much

I have painted a ton of cars with Rustolium paint. I paint it with three oats. First two coats are very light. Third and sometimes forth are medium coats. Works every time.

again thank you mr. yost

how do you strp you model what do you use thank you

Very good info Donn you are the most informative guy around keep it up God Bless

I've painted several models in nothing but rustoleum and never had any issues! The 2 times I've had to strip paint due to my own screw up, my plastic has never been screwed up or un-salvageable. Maybe it's just operator error... just my opinion!

Oh, and by the way, just my opinion....Mr Hobby / Mr Color are the best air brush paints out there right now. I like the Tamiya lacquers through my airbrush as well.

Thank you for doing this. You are someone people listen to, so hopefully people will listen. It grows tiresome seeing posts such as the ones you described, in which the problem could have been avoided had the modeler used paint made for plastic models...

I wish I would have found this sooner. Never ever again

Well said!!!!

I don't know - I think the cheap stuff is fine for chassis, engines and suspension. Maybe spend more on the body paint and clear.

What is the best way to remove paint from a painted model?

My god you got hands, imagine that!

Enamel is not the same between makers. Solvents in the formulas differ. Rust-oleum for one is formulated for exterior wear. The nozzles are not made for modeling. Even though hpi guys uses them.

Yea man we are getting old ,but the good news is we are getting old😜That Rustoleum spray paint is nothing but trouble for me here in the north country, won't dry right and as you said will not strip easily either I have stopped using it altogether. spend the money model paints are a much better investment.

Don what paint will you use when they phase out model master paints