Just a quick update of how to make this even better is some have suggested bolting through to the outside of the wall. As you could imagine this would be much stronger and full-proof than the lags but obviously has complications like hardware penetrating the exterior fiberglass. I love the idea of trying to get a bolt inside the wall or something like a Rivnut but there are difficulties to make that happen. The lowest hanging fruit is to use an Epoxy adhesive injected into the wall that the lag is then held in place by. I am going to try the Epoxy and see how that does to see if the easiest solution will work. Some people were asking about the spacing of our holes, which appeared a random to me, but here is what they are from rear to front since I had the back 2 for reference. 8 9/16", 10 3/8", 9 1/2", 9 1/4". Sorry metric would have been nice I know. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/grl6o66IqrLQcps.html

I’m no structural engineer but I have a hard time believing 2 lag bolts in a 5 hole frame would pass a structure audit. Excellent video Jared!

It is totally asinine to buy a brand new fifth wheel and then expect the owners to take the carpeting out and check the bolts. I understand maintenance starts as soon as you take possession but this is ridiculous. When calling GD, instead of telling you to add lag bolts, they should have apologized and fixed it right away for free. It appears their solution to problems is to tell you anything to get you off the phone completely. In my RV market search, GD is off my list.

The fact a lag bolt is used instead of a threaded (bolt and nut) fastener is a major issue and should be the focus. As an mech engineer with 18+ years of machine/structure design I would never spec a lag bolt into composite aluminum/wood, even if its in shear, especially on a mobile unit that is under constant vibration/stress/strain when in motion. The engineers that approved this should be ashamed. Period.

I have a2021 Reflection 31MB and dealt with this about 6 months ago. I added 2 more lags on each side of the bedroom - total of 4. Due to excessive pin box movement independent of the upper deck, off came the front filon. I only had access to 2 lags per side due to upper deck flooring. All 4 were undersized and loose. Upsized to 1/2” and then spot welded the head to the frame to prevent loosening. Ugly part…the frame strap supporting wall only had 3 screws, sloppily installed at an angle, and counter sink screws were used on flat surface. All showed signs of pulling out. Replaced all frame strap screws with 6 ledger lags per side. Buttoned up and it’s a different trailer when underway. Solid feel and flex is what you would expect when in tow. Minimal,inadequate, and incorrect fastening of upper deck to frame. Poor construction by Grand Design in my case.

Instead of having wood inside those narrow channels, and using lag bolts, they should have captured nuts in those channels so the bolts can be directly threaded into the channel.

Imagine having to go through this with your safety related problems with your vehicle. The RV industry has convinced us that their products are of questionable build quality and the related problems are to be expected. They’ve also gradually exposed us to the concept of “you probably caused it” or “not our problem that’s the supplier’s problem”. From 5 decades of RV ownership I can honestly say that they’re almost all poorly built and as long as we keep buying them they have no motivation to build them better.

I’ve had a fair amount of experience with this issue on my 2019 320 VanLeigh 5er (installed sleeve anchors myself 3yrs ago, had manufacture add wood into the channels, and last summer Tiffin pulled cap and added internal aluminum structure to the walls as well as additional bolts etc between frame and wall). I’ve also watched many, many frame flex videos over the last few weeks just for curiosity and entertainment. Your video was BY FAR THE BEST ONE OUT THERE about understanding the real problem, being objective, and recommending some real solutions. Great job!!

I'm a welder, I went from a job doing military items inspected by a in plant government inspector (that was quality before quantity) to a job that was mass production (quantity over quality) and the unwritten rule was only fix what the inspector catches! That's how the company increases it's profits. So sad. Not all welders worked by that unwritten rule!

Jared, I have been a NRVIA Certified Inspector going on 5 years now. I been following your channel for several years. This problem is a lot bigger than both Lippert or GD are letting on. IMHO the problem is two fold questionable welds along with under engineering the connection between the frame and house. I'm not an engineer however 3 of my kids are..Lol Relying on two undersized lag bolts to hold one of the most stressed areas together is negligence imo. The penny pinchers at the RV factories are going to cost the companies a lot more money in the long run with these very short sighted cost saving efforts. Owners of these larger toy haulers and 5th wheels should be very concerned about resale values. I've already had numerous customers that have asked me to inspect toy haulers to see if they have frame issues. Then I have to break the bad news to them that it's not possible to tell if there are broken welds or missing components without tearing things apart and we just don't do that as part of an RV inspection. As part of my consulting business I have advised potential buyers what to look for and if there are any concerns to walk away and they have ! It's already affecting potential purchases and I believe that will continue to grow as buyers gain knowledge of the issue not just with GD but all manufacturers of these larger units. Kudos to Brinkley for being forthcoming about the issue and at least attempting to prevent the problem with a better connection. I own a GD trailer built pre- COVID. I wouldn't even consider a GD product if I decide to upgrade to a larger unit. Not a chance....

As a full time RVer touring the US, we see a lot. The number of 40ft+ toy haulers that seem to be loaded to the max is normal. While we were in St George UT., I saw a couple toy haulers loaded with equipment STACKED in the back. The overhang past the rear axle on these units is huge. The example I refer to above, the driver had to set additional jacks under the rear frame before he opened the ramp. If this is required, I would assume the mfg would have provided jacks at those points. And who knows how that trailer handled going down the road at highway speed with so much weight on the backend. Ownership responsibility is absolutely required. At the same time, mfg - as you clearly showed in this video (Grand Design!) - should build these just a bit better. Like using 5 one half inch lags rather than 2 three-eights lags. After all, they drilled holes for 5. Spend the extra $6 per side and do it right. And BTBRV video was good, but like you showed on your trailer, they can talk all they want, but the quality just isn't there. I guess we need government regulation here since we're talking about serious investments in RVs, and dealers/mfg wash their hands as soon as you're off the lot. And if you finance, you agree to sign away any real rights in arbitration. Look at your contract. Another great video.

Jared, with all the people talking about this, you were the first person to say that everyone has some responsibility for these problems. I was taught you have to take care of your stuff if you want to keep it nice. I also agree with others here that if there were five holes, there should have been five bolts. I would rather see a flat bolt head on the outside wall than I know it goes the whole way thru. Lag bolts seem like the wrong fasteners for this application. Again, great balanced take, keep up the good work. Safe travels and happy camping.

Still not satisfied why GD left 3 lag bolt holes w/o lag bolts installed. Great video!

I think the manufacturers, especially Lippert, could probably also invest in technology to help make sure the welders are able to consistently get good, fast welds. It might be overkill to start deploying robot welders like cars use, especially since they make so many versions of the frames, but that doesn't mean that new welders with features that help make sure the person doing the welding can focus on the welding itself while the machine handles the adjustments or using different types of welding could help ensure flawless welds every time. If nothing else, it would take some pressure off the welders and allow them to really focus and not feel a time crunch. From friends I know who work in Elkhart at some of the manufacturers, they use every trick in the book to put the, mainly contractors, doing the actual assembly under a time crunch to ensure they're always trying to go as fast as possible. While that may roll more units off the line, experience has shown, across any industry, that constantly trying to operate at the absolute maximum pace will always lead to compromises somewhere. I've been told that part of why there's so much sawdust coming out of new RVs is because they no longer budget time for the contractors to clean up, if they spend time doing that they're getting fewer units done and getting paid less. That anecdote alone tells you a lot.

I follow you and Big Truck Big RV because of your balanced and reasonable approach to RV issues. Thanks.

Jared, you have done a fantastic job explaining this problem. I do not presently own a towable but own a class A and have owned 8 RV’s over 40 years. I’m a Retired heavy construction professional with an engineering degree. You could not have explained this any better or clearer. It’s not all the manufacturers fault, but they have their share of responsibility to make these better. Two bolts may have worked on paper but obviously didn’t meet actual use and road conditions. I get why people are upset and it is harder to own an RV if you’re not able to do some work on them, maintain them, weight them and understand them. It’s sold to them as a carefree lifestyle. None of my 8 rigs were without issues. You have created a video everyone, regardless what type RV they are considering, should view. Thank you

Great video! I discovered a crack in my side wall last October and quickly learned that I had the dreaded frame flex issue. My rig is a 35' 2020 Keystone Alpine. The shop found, like yours, that many of the lag bolt holes were empty, and also most of the dead wood inside the square tube was missing. But the biggest problem with mine was that the philon siding was not glued / bonded to the aluminum structure except around the edges. I am told that the primary strength in the side walls comes from the bond between the fiberglass and the aluminum. In my case there were no broken welds. Just too much flexing which caused the side wall to eventually fail. Thanks again for this discussion, as I think it explains how important it is to actually build the rig to the engineers specs and stop cutting corners.

You, JD, Josh & everyone else doing videos on this issue are ALL feeding us BS hoping that we are as stupid as you think we are. The REAL ISSUE is that Lippert and ALL RV manufacturers with these issues, are not willing to accept any responsibility for building a piece of crap. Relying on a few lag bolts into 1'"of wood to support 14,000 lbs of trailer is ridiculous. The whole concept of the side wall being such a big part of the structural integrity is backwards thinking. The side walls should only be additional support. AS for the welds, if they were any good, they would not break, the surrounding metal would fail first. Jared, you're right All owners should be inspecting their units on a regular schedule . They should be looking at tires, roof condition, caulking, visually checking suspension components, but to expect owners to inspect for welds and loose mounting bolts is crazy. At most they should not ignore any body cracks. But it should never be expected that they take any responsibility for the failing frame. Would you take any responsibility if your truck frame started to fail, "HELL NO" you wouldn't. You'd be your truck dealers worst nightmare. So why is an RV any different. Wake up people!!

You need to remove the front lower cover and check for additional missing lag bolts farther forward, your wall sill plates, and the screws going up into the side walls through those sill plates. Also check for any broken welds or cracks in frame or sill plates. A detailed video showing all of that would be awesome.

GD needs to comment on the 2 lag bolts and 3 holes without lag bolts.

Best video on this subject yet! Thanks.

Well stated opinions in this video! Just my opinion. Lag bolts are made to attach something to wood that is continuous along the threads. Putting a lag bolt into aluminum tube and a tiny piece of wood that will absolutely split, is a misapplication of a fastener.

Another very informative and thorough video Jared! I too was impressed with JDs BigTruckBigRV videos on this subject. Very well done.

As always, I appreciate your real world explanation of the issues you have encountered and your take on how to build a better mouse trap.

I’m shocked to see a Reflection missing so many lag bolts. We have been dealing with this problem and our newly installed lag bolts are backing out AFTER having GD repair our frame breaks. We are having GD look at it once again to see where the repair will go next.

Thanks for showing how the lag bolts are used to attach the sides to the upper deck. I've been seeing lots of videos on this and wondered how this was assembled.

Thanks for this info. I saw a gap next to my stairs into the bedroom. Did place two additional lag screws, but didn't get the gap to completely close. This was several years ago. I am going back and beef it up as you suggested. Thanks again.

I was interested so I went to check ours in that area. I have always seen the two lag bolts were there, never checked them. Mine were loose, loose enough I can back them out by my fingers, with no washers and why go thru the carpet with them? I took them out, pulled the carpet, pulled the wood box they build around that frame piece and low and behold......I too have 5 holes on each! What the heck GD! I placed 3 more lags per side, with washers and for good measure I coated each lag with gorilla glue to help them not back out. Now for the intriguing part. Our bedroom floor at the top of the stairs always had a creaking sound when walking on it, the sidewalls in that area always sounded kinda loose and hollow, just figured since the trailer is a 150 series it was thinner and lighter and when placing the trailer on the truck there was always a creaking sound on both walls under each window. I assumed this was normal cause of all that weight coming down one a single attachment point when on the truck. Well, the bedroom floor doesn't creak when walking on it, the walls feel solid and zero creaking sound when hitching up. Unbelievable! Maybe all of that was supposed to move a little? Maybe we are not supposed to have all 5 lags attached to the wall, time will tell but now I feel better at least. I doubt I would have ever had the issue some owners are having with frame issues, we do not have any slides in the bedroom and we are only 32.4 ft. We own a 2020 GD 295RL. 150 series. Actually, fingers crossed never had a major problem just the usual trim pieces coming off. 4 years and 16k miles. Thanks for the insight

I have a Grand Design and have loose lag bolts that I questioned about in the beginning. No big deal I was told by the dealer. I will definitely check them again and add more if I can.

This is a great explanation of the frame flex issue addressing both sides of the story.

I'm so glade I'm in a well built older motorhome. Nice job as always.

You're anchoring a 1/2-inch lag bolt into a 1x2 piece of cheap wood? (And no, 3/32" aluminum won't add much to the equation). Lag bolts, especially that diameter, are made for thick timbers. Maybe 4x4 or 6x6's or ganged 2x8 joists. Assuming the exterior side of that little tubing filled with wood ballast is accessible, you want that tubing sandwiched between a 1/4 inch stainless or galvanized backing plate on the exterior and the base frame on the interior using through-bolts. A little paint-on corrosion inhibitor on the alu tubing would be good too. Nut snug-up has to be done by distance, not torque, as it could squash the heck out of the wooden ballast and cheap tubing. Need two nuts heavily torqued against each other to set them. Might be a good idea to use 1/2-inch bolts though, to spread keyholing load on the alu tubing a little wider. And if possible if might be a good idea to replace the wood ballast with a tightly-fitted solid aluminum billet. Or just buy something that has a steel cage frame welded to the base frame, like some horse trailers have.

Great video as usual. Explains things very well

My experience with lag bolts in areas of heat and cold cycles, is they will loosen over time!!! Maybe glue them in. Good fix, but keep an eye on them.

Thanks so much for these GREAT videos! Appreciate your balanced approach on this issue. I have a GD Reflection 150 273MK, similar floorplan without the bunkhouse. Checked the lag bolts, sure enough, only 2! need to add at least 2 more on each side.

Great video and great information. I totally agree on all fronts with you Jared. When I worked at a lumber yard and talked to contractors, they all said the exact same thing you said in regards to making changes off the engineers approved plans and it really got me w]seeing the loose lag bolts. My mind said, 5 holes needs 5 bolts, maybe some LVL material to screw them into, then a flat washer and a lock washer between the lag bolt head and the OSB, the flat washer to give the lock washer a solid surface to flatten out and compress as designed to do and the lock washer to stop the g]bolt from backing out. Another common fastener option would be a GRK style screw, an engineered lag bolt replacement option that is smaller in diameter. I have sense moved into the welding trade and I can tell you that any good weld takes time to do properly and needs to not be rushed. In my simple mind it boils down to: follow what the engineer called out, 5 holes means 5 bolts are used and are of proper size and attachment instructions not matter what. In all that, you did a great job and I truly enjoy the great videos you put out. Loads of great i formation that is explained very well. 👍🏻

Great video to make people aware. I've also been told that frame flex to failure can happen on travel trailers at the A-frame welds.

Great video Jared, I am considering pulling out the Lag screws and replacing with stainless steel bolts, washers and nuts. Just need to find the right piece of trim to use on the outside that I can make weather-tight. Keep the great videos coming.

This was the most fair and balanced response that I’ve seen on KZfaq to this problem.

Thanks for the video, and showing your repair! I would think that having 5 holes and only 2 bolts is because 2 bolts is enough to get past a 1 year warranty. For most users, one year is only 2 to 4 trips, and not enough time/use to have the bolts work loose to where the owner has a warranty claim. It would be interesting to see the engineer drawings to determine if they call for 2 or 5 lags to see if production is following the engineered plans. You might add some locktite to the lags to create a chemical bond to prevent them loosening.

At some level I disagree with the owners taking responsibility for this particular issue. Only time it makes sense if the unit has been abused, overloaded and such. Short of that, I have NO expectation to check the head bolts on my 2024 F450 6.7L PowerStroke, or even my leaf spring shackle bolts to keep my truck on the road. Now if the truck is 10 years old, yeah, I might need to start watching things other than normal maintenance. It’s important to NOT let Grand Design get away with, first, terrible engineering, then secondly cheating out in the manufacturing process potentially creating a financial wipeout for the consumer at best, DEATH in an avoidable accident at worst. What this reminds me of is Ford back in the 70’s saving 15 cents on every Pinto, only to have the wrong bolt installed causing them to explode when in a rear end accident. This led to many folks being killed. So every KZfaqr that even HINTS that this could be an owned maintenance issue, or they are the cause are the problem should stop doing this. There should be total condemnation of Grand Design for what has happened here and their total, until recently writing a letter that doesn’t mean ANYTHING, lack of accepting responsibility. All influencers should have enough integrity, whether they own one or not to stand together and not let them off the hook until every RV manufactured in the last 5 years at least, has been fully repaired or replaced without consideration if they are the 1st owner or the third owner. There should also be an NTSB investigation into car crashes with these Grand Design 5th wheels. I spent nearly 17 years in airplane manufacturing and Grand Design’s technics and engineering is beyond irresponsible. There should be countersunk flush mount bolts with nuts with tube inserts in the side walls taking into account different metals (fay sealed/wet install bolts) I’m guessing every 6” in this area. Leave the wood in the wood yard, with proper manufacturing it’s not needed and just adds weight.

Jarod, thank you so much for this video. There are too many people talking about things they do not understand and ultimately hurting the outdoor hospitality industry as a whole. No person or company is perfect and most people only "Know" a part of the truth. A 1/2 lie is more dangerous than a full lie. I love what you have done and hope it goes viral! (FYI-Love JD too!)

Jared, will post the answer to many who question why only 2 lag screws instead of 5?. The missing 3 lag screws on each side seems to be a gross oversight which more than likely would lead to excessive flexing and eventually frame failure. I too am questioning the use of lag screws into alum box tubing stuffed with wood 2x2's. It seems when the larger trailers with drop frames and massive storage became the "perfect storm" to create the failing frames. I too want to see a better attachment method to build a stronger combined structure that will handle the heavier weights and loading conditions experienced in the larger 5th wheels. All in all an excellent video!

People don't understand that the prices of things are never going back down. This inflation is deeper than we think. Those buying groceries are well aware that the real inflation is much over 10%. The increments don't match our income, yet certain investors still earn over $365,000 in stocks and assets. Wish I could accomplish that...

great episode

It's to the point that people need to check the frame out regularly just like checking tires and springs. It pays to keep the tow vehicle in mind too. I'd make sure the suspension is working well. If the tow vehicle has hard springs or air bags that are pumped up to the max it could add extra jarring that the manufacturer's engineer never accounted for.

Great job! Please share on Grand Design RV Owners - What’s In The Shop with Dustin

Fantastic video. I will be checking my upper deck. Thankfully I have the upgraded Rhino upper deck.

Great episode Jared, no wonder your number one!

Great video and information thanks for doing this.

Riverstone,DRV and Luxe use Lippert frames. They don’t have any frame failure! Main reason is all steel box frames,3.5”walls and superior wall attached to the frame. JD love’s Riverstone’s and has said he has never heard of a frame failure in a Riverstone. We are on the Riverstone forum’s and no one has ever said anything about that issue.

Thank you for this video. I have a Reflection 150 and while I don't have any issues and my "Qty 2" bolts are tight. I want to get ahead of any potential issues. Especially since my bolts are not uniformly distributed along the frame. They ran two bolts in and they are no more than 6-8" apart. These things are assembled really quickly...too quickly.

As an auto Tech [Retired] I watched manufacturers ''skimp'' on fastners in the past...and most of the time it came back to bite us in the keester! Now, as an RV owner, I see this all the time! After problems with our first rig, I now go front to back looking for these issues and others. Iwould have done the exact same thing you did with the lag's...sure would be great if they could take the time to weld nut bungs into the frame or frame plates, like you said, lags into wood in such a critical area is questionable! great job Jared!

Jared, Awesome video and thank you for a real description of the lag bolts!!! Owner of a 2021 GD 344GK. My rv isn't really showing any signs either but I will be checking them out. I will say we are buying an expensive unit that should be road worthy for multiple years!! The manufacturer has to do a better job at building them so the end product meets up with the lifestyle they say these units are designed for!!

Great job with a very hot topic, looks like we all need to do a better job. One of the ways we can work on this is buy the quality units and share our experience. If you quit buying poor quality units things will change. Thanks!

Hi Jared. Thank you for this video. I also have a 2021 28bh and was wondering if you would be able to share the spacing of the extra holes and the exact size of the lags you put in? my lag on the living side, furthest back did back off before - locktite seemed to fix it, but I would prefer to add the extra lags as you have done. If you have the spacing, I might be able to do it without tearing off the carpet. Thank you very much in advance.

How big (what size drill bit or diameter) did you use to drill your pilot holes for the upgraded 1/2 in lags on the inside in the bedroom deck? Did you use zinc or stainless? Thanks in advance. Your videos are helpful and awesome. I have a grand design reflection 150 w/ only 2 lags each side too.

It seems to me like these are destined for failure using lag bolts to hold these together. I have never seen a short lag hold long term on things like a house deck. Thru bolting these like DRV and Riverstone do is a much better way.

My GD Solitude S2930 RL (34’ long) has a broken front structure - missing 2 lag screws in bedroom, screws were only 3/8” instead of 1/2”. Service center found an additional 6+ bolts under front TPO pinbox covering and broken flat steel wall sills on both sides. Waiting on next step - Service stated it needs to go back to factory - GD said they will cover and make repairs.

Would lock washers under lag bolt head(s) help maintain tension on bolt(s) and prevent them from backing out?

Thank you very very much for making this video. I have a Forest River 5th wheel Artic Wolf, and I've been seeing two lag bolts in our bedroom area sticking out from the carpet area after a trip. I screwed them back in, but after a trip, they are back out. I have been scared to do what you did because of the unknown of what I was going to find or how was I going to fix it. Now that I saw your video I feel I can concur my fears and fix it with larger lag bolts. Was using larger lag bolts the only thing you did to secure the wall besides adding additional bolts? Thank you

That was a great video. Thank you

Honest & well said

Excellent, as usual.

Excellent video as always.

Very well presented. This issue has put our upgrade in RV on hold. I believe that the frame needs revisit in design. Yes some issues can be caused in use and care.

Hi Jared, what’s the distance between the holes for the lag bolts. I’m having a hard time locating the other holes. Please refresh my memory why you place a plat in the storage area.

Excellent video.

First thing I did when I bought my truck and trailer was to install an air ride hitch. I have a medium duty truck and I knew the suspension on the truck was very stiff. I wanted to take the stress out of the front of the trailer as much as possible.

2 is adequate? Maybe under ideal conditions. A few more lag bolts won't break the company. Totally agree with the way those bolts are connected. Putting 2 lags into a thin piece of wood for something that sits in the weather and then drives down the road isnt idea.

Great informative video

Do you think having washer/ dryers in the front left or right corners is too much concentrated weight?

Alternate to lags? Through bolts with large washers. You’ll see them outside, but it’ll be secured well. However, lag bolts/screws work well when installed correctly. That small wood fill inside the steel frame didn’t appear big enough for that 1/2” lag.

What are your measurements between the lag bolts?

Great presentation Jared - Is this something that is unique to 5th wheels, or could it happen to TT's as well? - Cheers!

Sorry but if it is so important how the walls are attached to the frame why in the heck, did anybody think two lag bolts are going to hold for any length of time and most RV owners are not builders like yourself or garage mechanics there relying on the manufacturer to put out a good product.

Thanks Jared. Did you ever find out why only two lag bolts and why they didn’t use all five holes?

As always, outstanding video my friend!

Jared - nice work showing how the frame AND the body need to work together to provide structural support. It seems like a VERY poor design to use lag bolts in material that has very little bite, especially in something that encounters as much vibration as an RV does. Mechanically fastened bolts would seem like a much better solution. I hope you do a follow up to see if 2 lag bolts is the proper installation method from the manufacturer, or if some worked out, or if Lippert recommends all five being used. Something still doesn’t seem right & there is more to uncover.

I own a 33ft Jayco Eagle Series 5th wheel, no issues with flex. Might be one reason Jayco makes their own frames.

At the 6:05 mark you are showing the wood filled framing member. I can’t figure out where that is in relation to the sidewall, the black steel or the OSB that you stripped the carpet from. That brief video section seems to be below in the propane bay? If so, are you just showing that as an example of what is behind the wall in the bedroom?

A real ISO certified department with qualified NDI inspectors eliminates the obvious wild West manufacturing of lippert and the RV manufacturer. Engineering disciplines nearly always disconnect from the installers. For example, Winnebago engineers second to none. But, their lack of installation QA and QC create hidden problems and some quite serious as I learned on our Winnebago View. Everything comes back to a certified international standard of QA and QC. From my experience as a QA and QC naval officer officer and consultant, the RV industry ignores QA and QC.

I have this exact 5th wheel. I'm not happy that I have to do this kind of maintenance on our 4 year old trailer.

Jared, Maybe I missed it, but did you do an install video on the plate you added in the propane storage area? I plan to add this plate, and some type of wood glue or locktight to existing lag bolts as I have 1 that likes work its way loose. If these 2 upgrades to seem to make a diffference then I’m going to remove carpet and add the additional lags. Would like to add the plate first. Thanks, and appreciate the videos. (31MB owner)

Great video 👍 😊

Lag Bolts in a small square stock frame? I would not expect that to last. Thanks

This is a fantastic video. Would you be able to provide the measurements for the bolt lengths and the distance you found between them?

I definitely think if you’ve overloaded your RV or you’ve changed some structural piece of it that you are accountable for that. At the same time I think it’s crazy the lack of responsibility or the warranty piece of it, that they just kind of throw up their hands and say oh you’re a year or two old no can do for you. Those frames should be meant to last longer on Wells than that. Great video Jared I agree it is a partnership to maintaining an RV, but at the same time I do think structural things like welds need to be the responsibility of Lippert and the RV company.

I totally agree that lag bolts and screws into wood for a structure that experiences an earthquake going down the road is sufficient. This needs better engineering like a strip of metal with welded on nuts instead of wood for example.

Even though our Grand Design 260RD, at just under 30', is probably not a leading candidate for "frame flex" I decided to see if i could add bolts because the two existing bolts do back out from time to time. I did remove the carpet on the door side to exactly identify the bolt spacing. For reference I numbered the bolts from 1 to 5 from the back to the front of the RV. Spacing is: 1 to 2: 7-5/16"; 2 to 3: 11-1/2"; 3 to 4: 9-1/4"; and 4 to 5: 9-1/4". Having that information it was fairly simple to find the bolts on the other side without removing the carpet. Adding the #3 bolt on each side went well. However I was not able to add bolts to 4 & 5. I'm guessing there was some kind of metal structure on the other side of the frame - yes, I'm sure the bolt was going through both sides of the frame - because it would not thread. I tapped on a long nail in the hole and the tip came back blunted. It did not sound like a good idea to drill or force anything without being able to see what I was going into so I have decided to be happy with adding one bolt.

Great video! I have one lag that cones loose periodically on our 311bhs. I would like to add some more lags to my Reflection. Were the bolt holes a uniform distance apart? Do you have the center to center distance? That would help me find the other holes without tearing one side apart. Thanks!

We are picking up our GD27bh today. We have been RVing for 14 years in the same TT we bought new. They could just through bolt the sidewall to the frame and have a nice extruded aluminum profile channel with a cap to cover the heads on the outside. If it looked nice I don’t think anyone would question it if meant the attachment was more secure than just lags holding the sidewall to the frame.

It's not just a 5th wheel problem, The channel KYD did a video on their Air Stream about the same issue.

Great job as always. If you guys stay on the manufacturers by pointing out what they are failing to come to grips with, people will understand that they can do better. Passing the buck isn’t a fix. Engineering a solution is what is needed. Thanks and let’s get the right fittings for the pex/flex tubing problem on that list as well.

Hi The main frame should NEVER EVER be designed to rely on the skin or anything else of the trailer for strength. You will NEVER EVER find a lowboy or highboy hauling heavy equipment that depends on the wooden planking for part of the strength of the trailer. Build a frame strong enough in the first place. Thanks for listening!

I've noticed a lot of the manufacturers seem to just, leave out screws and bolts that could and probably should have been there. I can only assume the engineer designed for those holes to be used, hence them being there, so there's no excuse for cheaping out and not using them. My counter/cabinets only had 2 screws joining them, out of 8 predrilled, pre countersunk holes provided. Also had my sliding bedroom door fall down because they didn't quite get the wall lined up with the beam in the roof so the door track was just hanging from 3 screws into the 1/8" plywood ceiling. I've seen a lot of things where, as an engineer, I can tell that the engineer designed things to be a certain way, and they just, did something different that really doesn't make sense. In some cases it doesn't even save them time or money to build that way, so I have no clue why they deviated. Maybe someone just didn't want to be told what to do or how to do it (my dad will 100% do things a different way just so he wasn't obeying someone else, so I can absolutely see someone going "Well I want to do it THIS way" just because.)

One of the things that I noticed from watching the Lippert frame shop videos is that there seems to be a massive disconnect between the care and competency that Lippert said that they placed in their frame welding, and the videos that owners are showing of the Lippert frame welds that appear to have been done by a welder with the skill level of a grade 10 high school shop class.

I'm sure you could blame the owners for a percentage of the issues. But I've seen threads about brand new units, nothing in them, having frame failure on the way home from the dealer with it. If there's a percentage of units that are DOA, would mean there could be a higher percentage of those that just haven't failed YET. I think they need to re-engineer the front super structure. Reinforce it with gusset plates and cross members. Maybe you add some weight, and lose a window. These things shouldn't be on the brink of failure so easily.

What was the exact purpose of the plate you installed in the storage area?

I agree that if you have 5 holes, there should be 5 lag bolts. To me though, whether is 3/8 or 1/2 inch lags, there is less than an inch or so in the wood. Wood, bouncing down the road, seems to me it would lose a little "bite" over time. They should switch to bolts with red LocTite that go into a type nyloc nut that won't loosen up. The RV is only as strong as its weakest link and this looks like a poor way to attach walls on something that encounters "earthquakes" on every travel day! The RV industry is at a tipping point and the first one to figure it out and massively advertise their benefits and quality will be the big winner.