Thanks as always!

Glad you liked!!

Thanks!!

Boiling temp? wrong: Water at atmospheric pressure is 212ºF; under 15 psi pressure is 250ºF; in 50/50* Glycol mix @ 15psi is 268ºF. (50/50* Glycol @ atm pressure is 223ºF.) *[I believe these figures i quoted are for a 50% mix. And typically the max recommended ratio is 60/40 glycol/water; which is slighter more boil/freeze protection]. Mr K L

Yep, anything that restricts airflow like adding a bigger than needed trans cooler in front of the radiator or a dirty A/C condensor.. Whatever you do don't ever remove your fan shroud.. That is a another No-No.

+RVdaydream Most people dont wash the radiator area when they wash the vehicle. I always wash mine good to be sure that no gunk gets built up.

It's definitely a good idea, Be careful with the pressure wands at the wash bays though as they could potentially cause debris to be lodged deeper into the core or even cause leaks if the fins are pushed around by the spray..

Fans don't add air flow over 35mph

@@Rvdaydream fake news

@@Rvdaydream fake news....they sure do dimwit

Real Physics.. Like adding a box fan in your house window during a cat 1 hurricane.. Flex a lite, Derale Confirmed this during seminar training when I worked at Summit Racing in the early 90's..

😁

I totally agree. Like most RV stuff I am sure it was designed with cost in mind and functionality being a secondary thought..

Air has to be directed so that it flows through the radiator. Most stock vehicles, meaning no lifted trucks, no vehicles with air dams removed or added, no vehicles that have had their under engine catch pan whether it be plastic or rubber removed, should be designed to allow airflow through the radiator however, even with all the factory components in place there are some vehicles that the engineers have designed that require a fan to pull air through the radiator. But it's a poor design if that's the case. Just driving a car at 45 mph with any faulty cooling component such as a radiator that is not fully flowing, a thermostat that is sticking whether it be fully closed or fully open or even at the wrong temperature will cause a vehicle to overheat even though there is sufficient air flowing over the radiator. So to recap, if your vehicle is in its stock configuration, especially not lifted, and if it is a well engineered vehicle from the factory, and all of the cooling components are in top condition and working the way they are designed to then anything over 45 mph is more than enough air flow going through a radiator to keep a vehicle cool. Also remember the engine has to be spinning at a sufficient enough RPM to allow the water pump to circulate coolant throughout the engine at a rate that it will extract the Heat from the Block and transfer it so that the radiator can disperse of it. During a downgrade could be a chance at the engine was not doing that.

Thermostat problem..

@@Rvdaydream thank you so much sir.. hug from philippines sir.. truck/semi trailer driver here sir...😊👍💪💪

The V6 thunderbird, yeah that car is not designed very well. Air was not being pulled or pushed or dragged or blown or anything else through the radiator with that little tiny grill opening. And I hope you didn't remove the belly pan(rubber flap) . If you pulled the radiator out of the engine bay and stuck it on the front of the car where would actually see air flow , you don't need that fan. So YES air over 40 mph that actually goes through the radiator will be enough to cool the vehicle.

i would imagine they need that air pretty badly inside that big box.. :-)

+RVdaydream Yes they need tons of air. My 36ft class a has a clutch fan as well as 2, 10 inch electric fans. Im thinking tho of changing out my clutch fan for a big electric fan. Maybe a 24 inch one.

99 percent of electric fans will never out cool a good ole mechanical one.. The exceptions being specific designed aluminum radiators with perfectly matched/formed fan shrouds with high volume fans.. These will run anywhere from $800-1500... I researched this heavily and talked with a couple of Manufacturers... The best one for my truck is $1200 from Griffin part# CU-70125

When driving over 35mph, the fan doesn't offer any additional windspeed anyways so, being fully disengaged is ideal for less power consumption..

@@Rvdaydream yeah but you one thing i found out??? Is that with clutch driven fans they dont seem offer great ac performance at idle

@@Rvdaydream and or when the engine rpms are below 800 rpm I read that those 2 contribute to slightly poor performance of ac

Ninety percent of the time the poor performance at idle is not because of the fan it's because the compressor is turning at a much slower speed also. At idle up until about 1500 RPMs my fans screams when it's locked in. What I mean is it is pulling a ton of air it sounds like a semi truck.

@@Rvdaydream ah okay, i can see why a smaller car is more preferred since the engines i believe have higher idle I always figured there was something up with my mid sizer SUV but nope , glad to know :) Oh by the way wheres the link that you stated in this video? As its not in the description

I don't think that I completely agree with that.. A fan that is designed with blade pitch and diameter size to draw through the fan shroud a determined amount of CFM by retrieving air through a path that is being blocked by a power steering cooler, an AC condenser and two radiator cores would definitely see more work if that same path is being restricted by an aftermarket oil cooler(separate video) and Double the size of the radiators thickness.... Using an analogy, Same straw, same mouth, thicker milk shake... Means more work..

25000 miles later, Works fine...

I don't think so: He's presumably adding no more heat than it would see in normal operation in rotating to that same position... He was at an angle and not directly into the seal area... He stopped as soon as it rotated... Slower heating would be best, so no hot spots (further away, flame not touching). A heat gun would be optimal. Mr K L