RVs, campers, the worst shit I've lived in because of repair and maintenance. Not weatherproof whatsoever. Temp sucks because walls are thin af. Most of it probably is manufactured with terrible design, and the slide out is just an obvious retarded idea.

@@MrsMelissaRich 👎 for no value added to the conversation at all.

@noneya biz Thanks for the advice. My wife and I just bought an old trailer with some needed wood rot repairs to be done in front just like the video shows along with roof needing revealed. Let the fun begin.

@@mikeroland9751 Well, it did make me laugh. Haha!

@@GoliathFlores Then value added. I stand corrected. A laugh is worth every word.

Thanks for sharing! Always love it when someone who known a lot more than me chimes in with advice.

Larry Wood thanks for advice I have damage in the exact same place and always suspected roof seems and seal and reseal which I think is the main source but after watching this it must be a combination of things.

The Gray Adventures thanks for sharing your experience, helps me see where to start checking for issues and repair

Some of the best advice I've seen for wood trailers

Good on you Larry. Lots to learn.

Thank you, it's my first time repairing RV and this vid is amazing thank you Big Guy

@Michael Dunlap Thanks for the tip!

new product crazy seal look it up on KZfaq and say testimonials has a 50-year warranty on it

Good luck. After this repair, we didn't have any additional leaks.

Sounds like you've got some investigative work to do.

Take it to a repair place that has a seal tech rv leak detector it's about $150 but it will show your issue for sure ! There's videos on here as well so you can see how it works.

I am only 60 but feel the same way.

Not even close

The work is pretty easy, but it just takes a lot of time. If you have two people working at the same time, it could go a lot faster.

Felt paper would have been better.

Most travel trailers are slapped together, as fast as possible , the quality does not reflect in the price we pay 😳

They ALL leak 🤷🏻‍♂️. Thanks

It's been 18 months since we did the work and have had no issues since.

Hope you can find the leak.

Great tip!

I'd bet money on him being right those lights leak all the time from small cracks you can't even see

I would agree - I had more leaks with the marker lights than anything else. In fact, I had water come in between the lens and base but mostly it came in between the outside wall and the base. I used a marine based adhesive/caulk (Sikaflex 291) that glued the base to the outside wall. I had previously used a silicon-based caulk and that was worthless in this application. Now, as I drive down the road and the camper moves/flexes, water cannot get in.

My recommendation would be to keep an eye on things on a regular basis. It can happen at any time, but we've also run into some people who have been on the road for years and have never had any issues at all.

I ALWAYS go above what's needed to prevent water damage too. Especially if I was repairing it already lol

Same dude. I got a camper given to me that has water issues up front but I think there isn’t much to it if we have the patience because from what I was told the problem has not been seriously looked into.

ya, you're right. he sealed in that dryrot. he had dryrot spores and mold growing when he opened it, did not replace the damaged wood, and did not spray anything to tackle the dryrot that I saw before sealing it all in. 3 years later and Im sure that wood is all crumbly now.

​@@surveyguyor8958I too saw that fatally affected area... You don't know, til ya know!!! We dealt with Serpula Lacryman's type...evacuation level situation. Epic. Yea that stuff will take over.

Exactly my thoughts. Bought an especially bad one. Classic suckering. Am not going near this sort of camper again. No use fixing.

Yes by design

@@livableincome what year and model did you buy?

@@Man_in_a_Gucci_Suit Hi, this is a stream I haven't commented in for a while and I don't see what I said. Sorry. I've bought two campers- both had water damage. Will just say what they are but I am now missing context. One was a 1977 Coachman. Bought it and then discovered an RV inspection place wrote it off saying it would cost in excess of $20,000 CAN to fix it. I basically gave it away and lost quite a bit of money. However the buyers loved it and said there are different kinds of mold and this one is dry rot which is acceptable if you are camping locally and not going far. It was a lovely 19 ft retro camper. The second one is a 1994 Kodiak truck camper. Several leaks. But I have now discovered the water drains right down into the truck bed and although there might be some residual water and some staining on a couple of walls, it won't be too bad. I pulled out the fluffy kind of insulation which was wet and replaced it. The solid foam insulation lets the water run over and down. I use a dehumidifier in there regularly to be extra sure. Did lots of repairs. Most esp full recaulking. Very expensive and they missed some spots but I fixed those myself. We had a great time camping last summer and I love it. This next year I will focus on cosmetic improvement of the interior. Won't completely renovate as I had originally planned. It is an old lady and we can accept her as such. Just the really ugly stuff to be replaced. We will just enjoy the camper until it is done. Won't resell.

You're definitely not the first one to mention it.

he sealed in that dryrot. he had dryrot spores and mold growing when he opened it, did not replace the damaged wood, and did not spray anything to tackle the dryrot that I saw before sealing it all in. 3 years later and Im sure that wood is all crumbly now.

Took the same approach as the first time, but left out the tape this time. It didn't seem to have made any difference. So far things are holding up better this time around without the tape.

Hope it turned out ok.

Great tip.

Total cost of complete renovation was about 5k. Water damage repairs were less than $500.

You won't be saying that once you start dealing with fiberglass delamination believe you me my friend I'm thinking of going back to aluminum

@@glennbeadshaw727 Really? Can you tell me more? Seriously.I am new to all of this. My understanding was fiberglass campers were sturdier, had way less leaks and kept their value longer. I have heard almost all aluminum trailers were very poorly built and as they move and jiggle everything loosens up and even new trailers, esp. those with slides get water damage. I am hearing this mostly from youtube. And all the Boler fans. My trailer went in today for an inspection to see if it is salvagable. If I can avoid black mold I might go ahead with it. If I can seal the roof, bottom, windows, lights and corners and there isn't mold already inside to make me sick.. In for a dollar... Any advice you have greatly appreciated.

@@glennbeadshaw727 Can you explain what fibreglass delamination means? I do remember my ex husband mixing fibreglass in the garage with all doors to the house wide open and my being seriously unimpressed. If I had fibreglass problems I would have to hire professionals and make sure they have good safety standards and practices for themselves.

@@livableincome fiberglass delamination occurs in travel trailers because of their type of construction where in they meld a layer of fiberglass filon sheet to the substrate which is normally lauan plywood or even just Hardie board and over the years due to heat and moisture they separate and the fiberglass becomes bubbled... resulting in an extremely costly repair or even the end-of-life of your travel trailer.. but however if you have a trailer like a Boler you will be much better off because the trailer has no lamination it is simply a fiberglass shell

@@glennbeadshaw727 Thanks Glenn, that is helpful. Looks like I am tenting it for a while. Just got the results from inspection of my new to me aluminum trailer. Rotten all over. 20,000 to fix it and it isn't anywhere near worth it. Selling it at a huge loss. Practically giving it away. Might even give it away. Four months income down the drain. I was such an idiot.

Yeah, that could be the name.

also referred to as underlayment. Luan is a trade name.

What about the black mold you left to screw the new boards together. This is close to where you sleep. And I would recommend not letting your littles ones not breath that in.

Yes, it's 1/4 inch plywood on the inside, but if it's already soft there, you'll need to test apart the outside to fix the leak. It's a cheap repair, but can take up to 20 hours if you're doing it on your own.

Thanks. We should have added the vapor barrier the first time around. Honestly, I don't k ow why they don't have them when they come out of the factory. Water damage is the number one RV killer and it's pretty easy to solve the issue when building these things.

I believe they don’t use vapor barriers in TT’s bc of the risk of mold. The reason is that campers endure dramatic changes in temperature between seasons leading to condensation, and vapor barriers trap moisture, and increase humidity. Our houses have more of a constant temperature between seasons, and therefore vapor barriers work well, and mold isn’t usually an issue.

Thanks

We've used corrugated polypropylene ("for sale" signage) aka Coroplast for so many clever uses. It's trial & error but worth the results. For extreme winter in MN too, one of the best performing materials of all. Even recycling election signage. Acetone (used safely) removes the print, if needed.

the moisture should be between the barrier and panel. not inside the barrier.

Think of the trailer like a house. The vapour barrier should always be on the warm or inside of the house. They never vapour barrier the outside of the wall. I really hope you don’t have more issues with this.

@@Truckerdude36 have you ever seen a house get plywood on it and then a couple days later before the siding the house has a layer around it with words on it. That's the vapor barrier.

@@loganhaynes2278 - I have built in different climates and you want the vapor barrier to be on the side of the wall that’s warmest the longest since that’s the direction that moisture comes from. Not everyone followed this advice from the manufacturer and it’s easier to wrap the outside of a building so that’s generally where you see the vapor barrier or house wrap. Not a huge deal if it can breathe through the vapor barrier. Modern buildings are sealed up so tight that air exchangers are often required for fresh air now. If the windows are fogging up on the inside then that’s where the moisture is, if they fog up on the outside then you really have the AC cranking.

dross?? cat??? What is this that you speak of?

Flex Seal is a short time solution. It dries out and cracks after exposure to heat and cold.

Ah, the Serpula Lacrymans. A right noble adversary! People have no idea.

I think the plastic is perfect. Wouldn't a vapor barrier will let moisture onto the backside of the metal trapping it there? The inside of a trailer should have enough air movement that water vapor doesn't settle and collect.

@@disillusioned070 You will get condensation between the vapor barrier and eventually rust/corrosion on the metal outer skin.

he sealed in that dryrot. he had dryrot spores and mold growing when he opened it, did not replace the damaged wood, and did not spray anything to tackle the dryrot that I saw before sealing it all in. 3 years later and Im sure that wood is all crumbly now.