Seeing this DIY RV Solar review, prompted me to tell you and anyone else reviewing the comment section how thankful I am for all of your solar installation videos. I apologize for this long comment but feel obligated to inform other viewers, the important info and detail you provide. After extensive research on KZfaq, I decided to go with Brian’s wiring diagram and Victron Energy system. Brian’s download of products used have been extremely helpful. My self-sufficient VE system is supported by an 824-watt battery bank, and 2430 watts solar panels. Solar can get expensive and honestly having this step-by-step content with the products download allowed me to create a (3) phase solar install to offset cost. RV with Tito DIY is one of my favorite informative channels. Brian, thank you again for taking the time to provide these step-by-step videos.

Brian. I want to thank you for all the quality information you continue to provide. After much planning, I’m in the final stage of installation and testing. You have been an invaluable source of knowledge. I am very proud of my design and installation and would love to share it with you to get your feedback. I expect to be done in a week. Keep up the great content. If you are ever in the Toronto area, we would love to take you and your Bride for dinner. John Anderson

Those rivet nuts into the panels are a great idea. I seem to forget the simple things thanks Tito😊

I built my system using your plans and instructions from this video. It all works! My install is on a 1990 Fleetwood Limited FERD Hot Rodded 37' Class A. I swapped out the tired 217 HP EFI Ford 460 and C6 3 speed to a 400 HP 5.9L Cummins with an Allsion 1000 transmission. Regeared the rear and added a limited slip because I tend to go farther back boon docking than most and use my RV as a base camp for Extreme 4X4's. The only thing I need to do now is find the right solar panels to mount on the roof of the Big Girl. Everything is tested with some smaller panels setting in the sun outside the shop. But all the wiring is installed all the way from the roof to the batteries. I went with 2 Power Queen 300 AH Lipo4 Batteries because they fit neatly in my basement battery compartment slide out tray. The Victron Inverter and MPPT + stuff is all mounted on 2 verticel slide out panels, where the old dead Ice maker for the built-in bar used to be. My coach is onnly 30 amp, so I didn't go with the 50 amp multiplus because I don't think I'll need that much power. I am pretty happy with the setup up and can't wait to get the interior redone so we can get the wrap on it installed and get-er rolling again. And I'm thinking of replacing all the widows to double pane tilt outs. Looking for some good times with this one out in the Boondocks.

Nice job, Tito. That's a real good deal on quality Sunpower panel. That's a better value than the new 550w Sungold power panels I bought for 51 cents/watt w/shipping. We're retired FTers who designed and built our system ourselves, on a tight budget. It took us 5 years to gather the resources and finally complete the project. We started by building a 620-watt liftable solar array on the side of our 1999 National Tropical MH. Our side array makes a nice bedroom window awning too, practically lifting itself with a couple gas struts, and it's easy to clean, standing safely on the ground. Next, we built a 12v, 560ah LiFePo-4 battery using 8, 280ah prismatic cells and a Heltec 330amp BMS with a 5a active balancer. It's roughly equivalent of 2 Battleborn gamechangers. These cells fit perfectly under the steps of our MH where our old pair of golf cart batteries used to reside. We insulated the battery compartment, cut a small hole in our step risers and installed a tiny computer CPU fan to keep this space at close to room temperature, so we don't have to worry about the BMS shutting down charging due to low temperature - or their life reduced from getting too hot. Our 12v system uses an 80A Progressive Dynamics converter/charger, a 1,000w Renogy inverter, a 50a Epever MPPT charge controller and a Lnex battery monitor. All this cost us under $3,500 and met all our off-grid electrical needs except for our air conditioning, heat and microwave. By mounting the solar array on the side of our coach, we left the roof free to rack 8, 550w solar panels down the length of our 35ft Class A, 15" off our roof, above our AC, vents, etc. We built the rack out of 2" 6061-T6 structural aluminum angle. The front 2 panels slope down at a shallow 9.5-degrees to meet the roof, producing a smooth laminar airflow over the array, making the RV more stable with less wind drag while driving too. It shades our entire roof, allowing plenty of cooling air underneath, increasing solar output and reducing the heat load on the air conditioners. Our overall height is still just under 12 ft. After we attached the rack, we coated the entire roof, including the array mounting feet, with Henry's Tropicool silicone sealant to keep things watertight. At my age, I can't see myself climbing on my roof to raise or lower these giant panels, so I mounted them in a fixed position. In reality, our 4,400w fixed array can run both our A/Cs, household appliances and charge our batteries from solar at the same time, even in winter. If your array is big enough there's no need to lift it - or worry which way your RV is parked to optimize production. Five years of boondocking experience with our liftable, side mounted array taught us that it's often difficult to find a NF campsite or boondocking spot oriented correctly (due east) for our south facing array. We mounted a Sungold Power all-in-one 48V, 5,000W Inverter/100A charge controller/battery charger, breakers and a Lnex battery monitor on the wall in our bedroom, saving us space as well as money compared to a system built with individual Victron components. Our 48v battery uses 16, 320ah prismatic cells and a 200amp Heltec BMS to keep it safe. Together with our 560ah 12v bank, we have a total of 23.5 kwh of batteries onboard - kept charged by 5,020 watts of solar. This is the equivalent storage capacity of $17,000 worth of Battleborn gamechangers for under $3,400. We removed our old rooftop bedroom A/C and replaced it with an EG4 28.5 seer-2, 12k btu mini-split heat pump on the upper rear of our motorhome. It's super quiet and cools as well as our 14.5k btu soft start equipped Furrion we have up front. This second phase provides 24/7 off-grid air conditioning and heat from the heat pump. We have a total of 6,000 watts of 120v inverted ac power, giving us off-grid electrical self-sufficiency without the need to run our generator, for a total budget of around $11,500, including the high-efficiency heat pump. Take care, and good luck with your new liftable array! We hope to see you down the road someday.

INSTALLING SOLAR PANELS ON FG ROOF: 1) 1 1/2” galvanized Unistrut painted white on sides and top. NO PAINT on bottom so VHB tape will adhere. 2) Area where Unistrut will be mounted should be thoroughly wiped clean with acetone. Do same with Unistrut. 3) Unistrut is mounted to roof with 1 1/2” wide VHB tape. (18” strip at front and back plus 24” strip in center.) 4) He caulked all along the edges and front and back edges of Unistrut with Sikaflex. 5) Holes were drilled into Unistrut at each corner and then he installed Rivnuts. 6) To attach solar panels to Unistrut he made L angles out of aluminum L angle material.

This was a very well put together and helpful video, thanks so much for putting it all together!

I am impressed!! And here I thought you were just a software geek lol!! Your video production skills are also commendable.

This is art.

Thanks for the refresh video.

I love Unistrut, you can mount anything and everything too it. Nothing like using the pepe cap ( grandpa cap) on the pickup as a platform. I wish I had your money to do all of this to my new 5th wheel, I just want to put in more solar and a few more batteries and an inverter.

Thank You Brian! As usual, very helpful video, and the quality of work you do inspires, and is such a great example. Always enjoy your videos and the craftsmanship you share.

In home solar installations, solar panels are mounted about 3" above the roof. This is for air flow to keep the panels cool. Hotter panels produce less electricity. Tito's mounts look to be about an inch, which is better than the flush mounting I see on most RV's. Still, I would go for a higher mount.

Brian, you are a genius!!!! Your system looks better than any other system I've seen out there. Great job.

Another nice job and great communication!

Excellent review. We have 1,800 AH LIFePO4 12V battery, 2,400 watts of solar, and 2 Victron Multiplus II inverters powering an all electric 2022 Newmar London Aire coach. It's a game changer. It provides 50 amps of power to the entire coach. We decided to go with a professional install because of 30% tax credit, 5 year warranty, 3 year tech support, and OEM like integration with Silver Leaf. We're very impressed with your engineering capability and thoughtful design. Should you decide to go with another inverter for a total of 6000 inverter watts, you can use two 4/O cables in tandem to handle the heat.

Very nice job! One fo the cleanest I have seen. Great work!

I just finished a redesign of my camper. I came across your video this afternoon looking for some info on transfer switches and Multiplus II inverters. I currently have 4 - 100W solar panels on my camper and would like to upgrade to 1K - 1.5K. I think I will have to make some changes to be able to get the remaining solar panels on top of my camper. I just downloaded your plans. Thanks for the great content and sharing of information.

Great video as always. Thanks Don

Very nice video and great information! Thanks!

Your planning and hard work has paid off with a well done system that fits your carefully identified needs. Well done!

Make sure you keep the roof sealed especially the radiuses! Winnebago has no structure in their roofs so you have to be very careful with them!!

Hello Tito. My name is Lindsay White and I'm 69 years old. I'm very interested in joining the RV life. I follow you and you are one of my favorite KZfaq channels. In the Military, I was a Fuel & Electrical Systems Specialist. Please let me help with a Powerful Suggestion: 1. Great Solar should be secondary. 2. Primary Power should be DC to DC charging. The GC3 battery BMS, is rated for 300 amp hours continuous. Meaning you can charge them with a lot of power. That's extremely powerful!! 3. You should use your Diesel engine to supply power to your RV! Especially when you're on the go and the weather is bad. You could do it quite safely and efficiently. 4. MY SUGGESTION; to get a secondary Alternator install professionally. Perhaps a BALMAR XT-Series 250 Amp/12 Volt Alternator. Set up TWO Victron Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC Battery Charger. That will give you 100 amp hours of power going into your batteries as you move from area to areas. Or you can just idle your Diesel Engine when you're low on power. Nate from Explorer's Life shows people how to set up two DC to DC chargers. God Bless you 🙏

Bryan, my total solar setup including 20 ft rooftop aluminum bridge was $10,240

Very unique design for setting everything up. Very cool! But would trying run two air conditioners on hot days over load that low watt inverter while boondocking?

Tito, you are amazing!!! Thanks for the great video on such a nice system you put together.

Thanks!

I'm using 4 Victron MPPT with my 4 - 440W panels. I found the 4 MPPTs were cheaper than 1 or 2 larger MPPTs.

As always, great work Brian

Hi Tito. I didn't see an answer to the question below about why you're not using the converter in order to top off your batteries. Seems like a no-brainer to take advantage of that power while you're driving.

What a terrific instructional video. What the tool you use to insert those threaded inserts?

We're probably more interested in the AC you installed. BTW in that motorhome if you haven't checked and replaced the fluid in the emergency brake housing behind the transmission you need to. There's only about 3 ounces of fluid between total destruction and those are almost impossible to find. Don't ignore it 😮

I'm a first-time viewer of your channel. Great video. Why did you decide not to have any DC-to-DC charging from the chassis alternator? My thought is that, on a cloudy or rainy travel day, it would be nice to arrive with fully charged batteries. Also, while not very efficient, it would be a backup to the backup.

Nice video and breakdown of your design. I keep thinking about adding a bigger solar system to my RV, but have been procrastinating. How is the air conditioning working that you designed and built?

Mounting section brilliant! Where did you source your stainless steel for the brackets?

Does the inverter have the "assist" feature to help by sharing loads with the land line/generator feed? In other words, you could use the AC on a 15 amp shore cable and the inverter will supplement the incoming power with its own.

Excellent content.. i did a system similar to this with off grid cabin a 5000 watt system. I purchased an older dp coach and wanted to do solar on it, but was wondering if leaving the converter set up as is and just send the the charg controllers directly to the batteries. Would this cause problems ??? Just trying to sort things out in my mind. Thank

Do you have a description of the exact rivet nuts and sizes? Thank you for the great video. I'll be installing a 300w panel on top of my toy hauler. Thank you!

Nice job, I'm planning on installing thin flexible panels on top of my semi. And i was planning on covering the entire backside with vhb . But after seeing what you did i real wonder how much i need ?

Brian, have you done any upgrades to gray or fresh water capacity in your ultimate boondocking machine?

Tito good video if you can help me I want to do diagram for my project. What program you use do it? Thanks

I probably missed it but what gauge is the unistrut?......14ga??

Great video as always, thanks. Why did you go with 12v? I went with 24v so I have less amps in the wires when I run my mini-split.

Didn't you have to install a dc to dc charge controller for the vehicle's alternator to charge the batteries also?

Hello! Can you tell me, please-how much did you spend for all of this solar equipment including solar panels? I love your set up!!!!!

Hi Tito, do you still have the class c motorhome?

You really need some main power supply fusing in your system

Nice job!!! Did you paint the wire loom white? Thanks

Love your video so helpful.Could you please send contact info where did you buy you solar panels. Thank you..Maria and Gary

@Tito - I want to upgrade my flex solar panels with rigid solar panels on my 2020 Airstream Nineteen. I'm wondering if I can use the heavy duty VHB tape and and some brackets to secure the panels and use this tutu rial as a guide to complete the upgrade.

Super clean mounting system for those panels. I'm going to try something similar. The sidewalls on my solar panels are something like 1/4" thick which seems too thick for the rivnuts I have.. Did you need to use extra deep rivnuts?

Thanks for the educational video. Did you happen to weigh your class A before and after the solar/battery upgrade? It seems like you added a lot of weight.

Did you always have DIY on your channel name or did you add that? I don't remember seeing it and I've been watching since around the time you took the couch out of your old RV.

So why didn’t you go to 24 V?😮🤔🤷‍♂️

Can you show how you fabricated the side clamps for your panels shown at 14:46? I can mostly figure out how to build the end pieces but those are throwing me off. I'm trying to do a similar build on the roof of my cargo camper

How do I go about removing the generator? & rerouting the components attached? Is it pretty straight forward or is there a diagram somewhere that I can read up on

Brian, been following your channel for a long time. On the solar panel rails what is a good way to mount them on a roof of thin plywood and foam. I just resealed it with the Tropicool silicone so the 3m tape won’t work. Thanks!

Where do you get the power for the inverter, charge controller and other equipment? Do you have a dedicated circuit in the panel? My equipment is going under the bed in our TT and there is no electric nearby.

Hello Brian, I just wanna let you know. I’ve been a subscriber for years and the other day I went to look on KZfaq see if you had any new videos and it turns out somehow you had become unsubscribed and not by me just thought I’d let you know thank you for your videos.

Would it not be much easier to buy a solid power generator

Question: Did you pick a Victron 3000W or a 5000w inverter? I have a 1999 Winnebago 50amp, generator with two ac units, but I only would only run one ac unit at a time. My refrigerator is 120v ac or propane. Thanks again for another great video. South Florida.

What is "ruuf"?

what was your total cost for everything

Brian it looks like you have it as a 12 volt battery system why not 48 volt ?

Hello how can I balance my lipo4 400ah batteries without taking battery apart I think 1 cell is throwing all the other cells off ?

This is a re-upload you posted this content years ago

Those are LARGE pannels. Ever heard of any pannels falling off in transit?

Laying the uni strut directly on the roof and caulking all around.. risky. Holding water in open oblongs, without a place to weep. To each their own.. I live in Florida, massive rain and humidity. Just saying

Have you tried GuiMods out for your Cerbo ?