Absolutely, we can be safe and it doesn’t take much.

Yes, safety is job 1

Glad I could help.

Yes we need guides like him and trained personal like you giving advice. would you give yours on this? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nd2ChKeUyuCaY40.html

What's a Beel Jammy?

Lol I just asked a guy what a Beal Jammy was.

Absolutely. Practice close to the ground to gain that trust the systems and remember the mantra “slow is smooth, smooth is fast”. I try to develop a system that I do every time I’m order so it becomes second nature.

Thank you Jonathon. My goal is to help this community hunt a little safer.

Thank you for the kind words, once I’m done taking some personal time I will be putting more content out like this.

Here's you a safe way to saddle hunt kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nd2ChKeUyuCaY40.html

Thank you! Welcome back to it! I am a firm believer in paying it forward, I gained knowledge in my time as a mountain guide and I naturally think sharing it is doing better than holding it in. I would hate to see someone get hurt by something that is preventable.

Yes, we can't have enough safety info.

Eliminate a slack line like this kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nd2ChKeUyuCaY40.html

Awesome brother, going to the SRT has got to lighten your load a bit; You were airborne you know the knees and well all the other parts of the body wear out. My personal objective is to get my set up as light at possible without compromising safety or comfort; my mission it to share that knowledge so we can get the longevity out of hunting we all want.

Forgive me if I misspoke in the video, I would use a blocking knot so the tail end of the rope cannot go through the device. I only use the Autoblock or other fiction hitches ABOVE my assisted breaking device as a means to help me ascend.

I appreciate it! The Iron Council is an amazing group of men to be a part of.

Thank you for the compliment! I know ropes and keeping people safe. I am still learning the hunting part…you’ll see once I get the back logged content out. This season I shot my fist deer, 120lb (dressed) doe.

@@thefullaj same! I'm a tree climber, interested in saddle hunting. You clearly come from a different background than the other vids I've seen.

All good stuff there. Build that muscle memory; I do everything the same way, I put everything in the same place so when it’s 4am and I’m tired or it’s 6pm and I’m tired and cold I know my up and down will be done correctly.

Thers a safer way to climb in the dark. Check it out. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nd2ChKeUyuCaY40.html

Thank you. I would tend to agree however I remember when I first started climbing and didn’t know any better. The best we can do is try to help, a safer saddle hunting community is a better saddle hunting community.

You're absolutely right. Help as much as possible and I tell people to practice Practice Practice!

LOL common sense.

Ouch, extremely lucky indeed 10-12 feet can break stuff. Glad the video was helpful.

Hunting and climbing both have their inherent dangers, combining them adds more potential for something to go wrong, mitigating risk wherever possible is my go to.

You fell once? How, if you don't mind? I agree about staying tethered while climbing. See how I do it, kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nd2ChKeUyuCaY40.html

Good suggestion! I’ll do a video on that, however I will do it with a simple autoblock and a few different knots to connect cord in a loop. I don’t come from an arborist background, I was a mountain guide and my goal is to bring those quick safe techniques into this world. The Hunters bend and Michoacán hitch are a bit cumbersome in my opinion; a simple overhand (with proper length tail) and an autoblock are a bit more simple and quicker.

@@thefullaj I agree. Simpler is better. Only reason I brought it up the Michoacon is that u need to tie a a hitchcord or u need an eye to eye to use it. Many people r using the 8mm Oplux. When u put a 6mm English prusik on that Oplux that doesn't have 2 eyes it can really be really hard to break that 6mm prusik. I use a 5 wrap Michoacan on both my lanyard & my Oplux tether. It always catches & it breaks with just a couple of fingers. I would hate to see people ditch the double redundancy just cuz they have the wrong style hitchcord application. I am a bowhunter 1st & had to learn arborist work since my farm is very wooded & I have fencelines to protect. I never take my small saw off the clip of my saddle to cut with until I have 2 climbing lines hooked to 2 bridges. Just b4 I cut my lanyard is around a 🌳 & I have a choker on that lanyard to keep it locked into a position where my body can't go to the left ir right. I have watched the guy on the Back 40 along with Chris Bee saddle hunt with their tether attached to a what looks like a Kong with a carabiner hooked to their bridge. Can't tell if they do or don't have a backup or what might happen if they get excited or panic. That concerns me & the only reason I replied. Thank God that there r guys that just hunt from stands that will never use a saddle. Take care & thanks again.

How do you descend from hunting height?

@@thefullaj I'm not John, but rapelling with a figure 8 is pretty much how it all started, brother! That's the way we did it when I was a teen, long before all these mechanicals! I've upgraded to an ATC now, but keep a figure 8 in my pack as a backup.

Thanks brother!

Stay tuned, I’ll be slowly showing bits of my saddle, mainly the bridge, with a product debut spring and on the market by June…

Yes and know in response to the autoblock, it's similar to the prusik as in its a bidirectional friction hitch; the prusik wraps "into itself" around the rope whereas the autoblock wraps up or down the rope not going into itself.

I intentionally pulled a large bite knot for demonstration. Pull less of a bite and it’s not in the way.

I personally prefer the mechanical ascenders for “ease of use”, most of my experience with both is outside of the saddle hunting context and more in hauling, crevasse rescue, and ascending so “speed and ease” were huge factors. I can most definitely do a video on this.

@@thefullaj I understand most definitely. Task specific, agreed. I appreciate your response and time it takes to put content out. Look forward to honing the craft. Hope all is well. Thanks again.

Get a gri gri I have used the jul and giga jul, I prefer the mammut alpine smart over those as they work the same, I’m just use to the smart

You're a lot better off with the simple stopper knot. Adding a prusik to the system is not a great idea.

Honestly no, the benefit of adding the prusik where I did below the system is to give a small amount of redundancy if in lowering your hunting height with a rope man/duck (or similar device) you loose control and somehow slip with the device held open. The friction hitch would stop a fall to the end or your tether, which should have a knot tied in at the end anyway. After reviewing comments and the video I did not do the best job of explaining that so I will have a follow up video soon.

@@thefullaj I have stopper knots tied in to all my tethers. I thought maybe you didn’t trust mechanical device’s much hence the reason for a back up. I use mechanical on my linesman’s personally for speed of adjustment and Prussic type on my tether. A fall to the end of the stopper knot, is going to cause some issues anyway. I have feet to get to my stopper knot. I would be in a very awkward or bad position or I would be off the platform. Be looking forward to what you post up either way. Thanks

So to be redundant if you want to back up the device on your tether you can clip into the pre attached friction hitches (check to make sure the are attached correctly). Here is where we get into the weeds. I personally don’t think that if your hanging on your tether not using it to climb, that a single hitch or device is adequate; it’s once we start climbing or lowering/rappelling that we need to be more aware of the system and adding redundancy. I know that’s a bit vague but it’s nuanced and challenging to explain via a comment.

@thefullaj4034 So I'm literally using 3-4 sticks with a three step aider on the first stick only. No climbing with the ropes at all. I'm just hanging around and waiting for that buck to roll through. Thank you very much for your insight. I feel much better and safer about my setup.

Definitely more “normal” with theses poly/ high tensil materials based ropes; untying knots after every use is one way to “mitigate” it. As for wash blue water ropes and sterling I believe have rope washes, be aware however some of them have UV brighter in them which is counter to what we want.

Shoot I think you already replied to another question I had about this and I deleted the wrong comment...could you please reply again I didn't realize I asked already and deleted the old comment before I read the whole reply....

Check out the video I did titles Saddle hunters how to finish cord, knots for tying a loop, and friction hitch’s. I give you a close up video of the autoblock as well as a few others. There isn’t a major problem with leaving it on, it will be a pain in the ass to manage the rappel. The best back up for assisted breaking devices is if you are losing control, let go of the lever on the device. Always maintain control of the break strand of the rope on rappel or tie a back up knot in it if you need to work.

Ok so the grigri and madrock aren't prone to any failures it sounds like just use the blocking knot once at hunting height...thanks for the reply!

That is the Sterling C-IV canyon rope 9.0mm

Yeah they will. I opt for the gri gri because I use my rappel line from the beginning and it minimizes the transition of ascending device to descending device, which is another point of potential mishaps and falling from the tree.

I’ll be getting a video out early to mid February as to how I’ve been climbing.

I’ll be getting a video out early to mid February as to how I’ve been climbing.

Most devices will have slippage like that when you are not holing the break strand. I was intentionally allowing it to slip to prove the point of ALL those devices are assisted breaking not hands free. I’ve not used the madrock before so I can’t speak directly to it but I’ve got 8 years of mountaineering and guiding experience and have seen more devices slip even when we thought they wouldn’t.

@@thefullaj Just for kicks and giggles one day I took my GriGri+ and my Safe Guard out for an experiment. Spent about an hour with each of them, taking off weight, slowly putting on weight, TRYING to get them to fail to lock. The GriGri+ only ever slipped maybe 1/2”, BUT I found that if the brake hand end of the cam somehow got raised, down ya go! The Safe Guard never failed to lock and only ever slipped @ 1/4”. As long as there is weight on either I found that both were good to go. Backups are always a good idea. On the “what if your bridge breaks”question, if you run the end of your tether through one of your lineman’s loops and connect it, you are redundant there, too, AND it keeps the tag end of your tether out of the way. Then on the way home I was hit and killed by a drunk driver. Go figure….. ;). Hunt safely, my Friends!

This is a hard question to answer, if you are new to rope work in general a 10.0- 12.0mm rope is a great way to start. For saddle hunting a Static rope is my go to, the load any fall would create isn’t hard enough on the body to justify a dynamic rope (in my opinion) and it is easier to ascend a static vs dynamic.

If your new to climbing, you should see this for sure. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nd2ChKeUyuCaY40.html

Might want to look at that gear again. last time I checked a triple action locking binder is more than adequate but hey, I'm just a mountain guide so what to I Know? Hope you have good and safe season.

@@thefullaj I have no patience quit watching. You’re way more qualified about gear. I’m whitetail bow hunter so for me it’s redundancy and no metal. Tuff enuf getting close to bedding and with metal clang ya got no chance. Best to you and yours

@@doncook3584 Understand that, This was my first video attempt at helping people with redundancy in a system, definitely didn't silence my stuff for this. I learned that lesson the hard way, everything is silent now. Hope you have a great season.

If it’s tight against the device you have to “ascend” the rope enough to give slack (3-4”) to then untie the knot.

@@thefullaj Thanks so much great tip!

I just asked the same question. I'm thinking the blocking knot would be best because it won't interfere with the ascend functionality as it would only "block" the rope from going thru the ropeman 1 (or 2) ascender. The prusik knot is what I keep seeing folks suggest but that has to be secured down toward your saddle, and I think that would interfere with the ability to ascend as the tether/top rope has be be pulled up. #notprofessionaladvice

I would highly recommend that. That safe guard is easy to adjust where as the ropeman not so much. Also takes away the need to transition. Play with it in the yard you'll see what I'm talking about. And yeah throw a stopper knot behind the safe guard while you're getting used to it.

Second that. Once I get back to putting videos out I will do one on my climbing method that shows just that. I am hoping the beginning of February to getting back to it.

Second that. Once I get back to putting videos out I will do one on my climbing method that shows just that. I am hoping the beginning of February to getting back to it.

Good question, if the bridge breaks on any saddle while hunting it is a total failure and manufacture defect (in my case I’m at fault as I’m prototyping my product), same with a rock climbing harness; climbing is inherently dangerous. For those that like the lineman’s belt you can clip that in with the bridge line, or you could tie a small bite knot on the tail end of your tether/ rope and clip into one of the bridge line attachment points; that would at a level of redundancy. Great question!

Hey there Paul, the hollow block only comes in one diameter size and 2 separate lengths. I prefer the 13.5” especially for a 9mm rope. Here is the link to the Sterling rope page for the hollow block. I think they might still be back order. sterlingrope.com/store/climb/cordage/sewn-cord/hollowblock2

@@thefullaj the link takes me to HollowBlock 2 products which are split tails. I suppose I could use a split tail too, but I don't see any sewn continuous loops.

If I’m using a gri gri or other assisted belay device I do not use a back up; as letting go of the lever engages the cam and the angle of my hand on the break strand is the back up. If I need to stop and go hands free I tie and overhand on a bight on the brake strand.

That is the “industry standard” way of doing it at the moment, once I’m back from this trip (early to mid February) I’ll put a video out on how I climb with a gri gri or similar device instead of the rope man/duck.

I would say keep a tight line always. Here's how you can do that kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nd2ChKeUyuCaY40.html

That is the Sterling TRC (tactical rappel cord) 6.0mm. I have been testing out light weight materials for my saddle hunting business; I agree most aren’t comfortable with such a thin cord, for my experience I trust the system as the static load I am applying is far below the manufactures specs. I am in the final design of my saddle, projecting June I will have them for sale, the bridge line options will be that or an 8.0mm line.

@@thefullaj If you're gonna sell them make sure you think about shock loading and the maximum force you want the bridge to be able to handle with two knots in it

Are you suggesting a clove hitch on the brake strand of the gri gri? You could do that but I would still recommend a different carabiner not the one you’re device is loaded into. Don’t open the carabiner you’re hanging from while you’re hanging from it.

you might try prussiks, auto-blocks, klemheists just depends on what your trying to do and the size of the ropes you are working with.

Just use a prusik and get rid of the metal

I hate to use this answer; it depends, I’m not sure exactly how you are using the figure 8.

depends if you want more bite or slip and the mantel of your two ropes i tend to shoot for 40 to 50 percent in diameter for bite (if they are rated for the load as well) if i want slip ill go up to about 70 percent. but you'll absolutely have to test the combination your planning to use at ground level.

Bkbowhunter1 the general rule of thumb is 3 diameters smaller, so for 9mm I would use 6mm. That being said I prefer the Sterling hollow block as it will bite on a variety of diameters.

Ropeman is quieter as the rope presses up against the carabiner, but is more limited on the rope size. Jon duck is noisy as the carabiner can rattle in the loop. I used hockey tape on my carabiner which helps.

I’m not sold on the noise issue that everyone keeps talking about. Though I only shot my first deer this year (a doe) I had too many missed opportunities on 3 mature bucks all within 30yds…(I don’t want to talk about it, lol) and my equipment is a gri gri (people complain it rattles) and the kong duck. Some of those missed chances were just as I hooked up to climb and right as I got to hunting height. ALL that being said, I’m thinking of flexseal as a long term alternative to tape.

Shoot me a message on Instagram @the_full_aj I’m happy to help.

Can you provide me the link to Petzl NA’s website where you found that information? As a mountain and climbing guide going “hands free” is a must in many different situations, a quick blocking not on the tail end blocks the rope from going through the device and the individual attached from sliding to the ground.

@@thefullaj i got that info from a phone call to them, and many other people have also mentioned it on their videos.

I don't see how a rope can pass thru a gri gri with knot in it. Even it was free to let the line thru.

This is the best recommendation I’ve seen on any comment anywhere regarding this topic. What length is your tether to allow enough line for you to maneuver and also tie in with a figure 8? Also where are you tying in on your saddle? Thanks

@@benbecton0308 I use a ropeman 1 ascender. After getting in the tree and all settled, I take the slack end from the tether, tie it into a figure 8 and clip it into the carabiner into it. That carabiner now has the bridge, figure 8 knot from the tether, and the ropeman clipped in. Now if the rope man blows up the tether has that figure 8 that I'm clipped into. It also takes up the slack from the tether so it's not dangling around. I make my own tether. The rope is 15 feet before I start tying knots. I don't 1-stick. I carry sticks. I'm not repelling. This works in a saddle or a stand. Although when hunting from a stand I do not use an ascender. I prefer a friction hitch of some type, like a prusik knot.

Thank you! I’m glad I can be helpful; maybe this year I’ll get my first buck as karma. Lol

Info@huntlyte.com

You can do that also. There are many ways to skin a deer, a simple overhand knot takes less time and I don’t have to carry an extra carabiner or hitch material.

Do you have a video on it? I’d be interesting to see. I’m visualizing being connected to one tether connected to rope man, then connecting rappel device to rappel line, then disconnecting rope man and repelling?

@@thefullaj this video shows the hookup and climb. I have another that shows the descent.

I’ve got plenty, I prefer an ascender that has less of an chance of damaging the rope if I fall catastrophically. Ropeman’s tend to desheath the rope if a fall happens with enough slack in the system. That being said, highly unlikely in our use.

I went to your channel to see how you framed your camera but I didn't see any videos on your channel... odd. 🧐

@@usernamehere6061 haha, he needs to insert foot at this time

You are right. I’m new to this, learning every time. Thank you for the feedback.

As someone on backcountry rescue teams, I hope you are only joking. If not I hope you decide to self rescue and not rely on others when a quick knot could save you from hitting the ground.

@@thefullaj ‘‘twas a joke.