Sam: Don't be afraid to use IPA to clean your track! Me: Got it. Drink IPA's while cleaning track.

Something I've heard a couple times is that the best way to keep rails clean is just to run trains. As long as your wheels are clean (and made of metal) than the friction tends to keep things clean mostly anyways. Soon as a layout sits for a long time, the rails collect grit and crud and dust and it needs to be cleaned again

Nice video Sam and some good points. A few other things to consider: 1) Most chemical substances people use for track cleaning are skin irritants and produce toxic vapours so should be used with gloves in a well ventilated place, plus eye protection just in case of splashes or if you wipe your eyes without thinking. 2) Electrical contact lubricants like Inox or WD40 specialist electrical contact cleaner DON'T leave a sticky residue, though some other chemical cleaners do. 3) One of the major arguments against abrasive cleaning like track rubbers is it produces tiny scratches to your rails which increases surface area and therefore oxidisation. Theoretically this means your rails will get dirty more quickly over time. However how much difference this makes in reality is unclear. I guess the best way to find out is to get some brand new track and set up two lines then clean one with a track rubber and one with an electric contact cleaner, use them the same amount and then see how they compare after a decent length of time. 4) Have you ever tried Gaugemasters high frequency electronic track cleaner? I've seen a few forum posts which swear by it, although I don't know anyone personally who's tried it. My understanding is it should probably only be used on DC layouts as putting an electrical surge through DDC chips isn't a good idea. Overall there seem to be a lot of theories and anecdotal stories about track cleaning, but little hard evidence. And the track manufacturers like Hornby and Peco don't seem to have much to say. Perhaps influencers like yourself could encourage them to do some experiments and publish the results? It would be good PR for them and having some facts to back up a cleaning product would surely be an excellent marketing tactic for them.

My track is so dirty I'll need a few tips this video will help me out a lot! Thanks!

Sam, I just wanna say that you are the best railroading channel out there. Love your content and I hope you reach 100k soon!❤

This is a video I’d hoped for, for a long time. I’ve got the Atlas incarnation of the track vacuum, and didn’t have much success with it initially. After a full clean out and re-wire, it works really well. It also has DCC which makes pushing it around slowly whilst it’s running a full speed a breeze. I personally use the methylated spirits on paper towel trick on my track, and methylated spirits on a cotton bud to clean the wheels. That’s always worked for me, but please don’t use any sort of contact cleaner on your track! I used “CRC Switch Cleaner Lubricant” on my track once, and whilst it initially seemed to work really well, after a little bit, it built up into this black tar like substance on my track, and on my locomotive and carriage wheels (sometimes the resultant grime built up so thick on my carriage bogies, they wouldn’t turn anymore, and I had to scrape them clean with a screwdriver). I honestly think I’m still trying to get some of it off my rolling stock almost 15 years and 3 layouts later! Thanks again for your insight on this topic.

I'm an old Luddite and still using my Triang track cleaning waggon with Methylated spirit

Hello Sam. Another fascinating video. My father always used a Peco track cleaning rubber since 1974. Never had any problems. It always makes the way permanent. Another classic Sam SUPERB thank you 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🐖🚄🚅

Plot twist: Sam is actually gonna live in that house forever without making his dream railway.

Hi Sam, great video! I discovered a neat trick just the last time I cleaned the track. To apply a cleaner (e.g. isopropyl alcohol), I had previously applied it to a cloth. But every time I got to the points, I had to be very careful to stop it snagging on the pointy bits. I had the bright idea to hold a piece of cork underlay on the bottom of a plastic ruler, squirt solvent on the end, and press down against the track and run along (flat side of the ruler down). The cork glides nicely over points and untidy rail joints without a hiccup.

Oh Sam what a rabbit hole this is! May I add my half penny? I too have a large loft layout and it is cleaned once a year all over, with a PECO track rubber. The next bit may be worth your experimentation? I rub sections of the layout with a 2B graphite crayon. A spark quench, contact improver, and also a dry lubricant. The latter being a reason for not over doing the graphite. If excess has been applied the track rubber will remove it! However, this does mean that the majority of the layout is cleaned once a year, loco wheels the same. The bit of the layout the cat sleeps on needs more regular cleaning! My show layouts and stock, many have not been cleaned for a few years, in some cases. I assume the need , or lack of cleaning, results from the layout not sitting flat in dust collecting mode all the time... Also the show layouts tend to spend much time boxed out of use and then periods of intense operation over a one or two day period. Graphite crayons may be bought cheaply from a decent graphic arts supply shop.... Cheers for an interesting film

This is really helpful for me as my railway room gets so dusty!

Well said Sam! The quality of track rubber matters! I have used some horrible ones that shed way too much dust even in few strokes but this Peco one seems really reliable!

Next time on Sams trains: Sam fits all his engines with track cleaning things in there undercarriages and such

Good video. I have been cleaning my track using bleach and a 14 inch industrial angle grinder and I have to regularly replace my entire model railway because of the unspeakable carnage. Thanks for the advice.

I remember that video you're talking about. When I was watching it I just thought "eh?". Used a Hornby track rubber for donkeys with no problems. I just use a Hoover afterwards to get any bits that have been dropped. Works a treat every time. With the new larger layout I was thinking of getting he sharg cleaner out of pure laziness. I've used IPA before with no issues too, I'd probably use that in the sharg. I remember watching that video and looking at my 5l tub of 99.9% IPA and just laughing. The one thing I found absolutely useless was Track Magic. It left a film all over the track which greatly reduced traction up my inclines. Ended up having to go clean it all off again with a track rubber! Great video, obviously the other one hit a sore spot with you, and no wonder with such bad information. Cheers, John.

I really needed this video! Thanks mate

This is incredibly useful, thanks. I do have a question about the Dapol vacuum cleaner: presumably the direction the fan rotates switches with voltage polarity, i.e. with the direction of travel? If so, does it blow the dust out instead of sucking it in if you go the wrong way?? I'm assuming they must have thought of that but I can't find any info that addresses this point. Thanks!

With runing trains on carpet the amount of lint and dust picked up all depends on how cleen the carpet is and what type of carpet. Your carpet is flat hard carpet so its all good. But soft fluffy carped is definitely a no no many because it will pickup and hold alot of dust. Love the vid sam Congratulations on 100k.

Hi Sam. Very interesting subject. Peco track rubbers are great, especially if like me you sometimes don’t run trains for long periods and the track starts to tarnish. However another trick I’ve learned is to use the rough side of a small piece of hardboard with a little block glued to the smooth side to hold it. Once the track has had a clean with the track rubber I go over it again with the hardboard. After that I won’t use the rubber again unless i leave it and it starts to tarnish. I just use the hardboard.

do you think you could do a video comparing all of the main OO setrack track makers (bachmann, peco, hornby etc)?

I haven’t cleaned my track for weeks however I have recently received a gauge master high frequency unit which cleans track

It’s wonderful to see what needs doing what needs to be done on the maintenance of your track. At the moment, I don’t have my own layout. But when I finally get into a better flat I will be building my Ongar Station layout and running permanent Steam Gala.

This has to be one of the most well thought out, objective and informative videos I have seen on the subject. Well done sir!

Person: says track rubbers make a mess Me: it’s just making ballast Also, can you make a tutorial on how to make a tart class?

Should’ve opened with The X Files theme song after you said “My personal secrets” 😂

Hi Sam I just wanted to let you know I followed your advice, on our railway club layout everyone has a station they control so as to teach other club members. I decided to clean up my station trackage first using the Peco rubber and it cleaned up a treat, everything runs well and better now so I thought I would say cheers.

As someone who working on his minor in geology... If we use the Mohs hardness scale on metal and on rubber you will find the hardness of nickel is 4, and the hardness of rubber is 0. Moh's Hardness scale works on the principle of "Can X scratch Y". Our fingernails have a hardness of around 2.5, and Diamonds have a hardness of 10. So Diamonds can scratch everything, nickel can scratch our fingernails, our fingernails can scratch rubber. So im just going to say... if your track rubber is ruining your tracks... your track is either made of something somehow weaker than rubber, or that rubber is not rubber.

Thank goodness. I needed this, my track is worse then yours (including THOSE points).-Das Mann

Have you tried putting magnets under the track cleaner to pick up metalic fragments?

I saw in an American video on youtube that the guy had a Tidy Track which is a cleaning head attached to a metal handle via a moveable joint. It followed the rails and he just pushed it around. Quick and easy.

Everard Junction has done a video with the American CMX track cleaner using 'Goo Gone' fluid. It's basically a tank wagon filled with cleaning fluid with a piece of cloth attached beneath the chassis. You control the flow rate of the fluid via a screw top. By far one of the best examples out there. Shame there isn't one on the British market but you could convert an old tank wagon in to one, that's what I'm planning to do in future. Maybe you could look in to it and do a video?? Would make an awesome project. I have a Hornby track rubber but also use Deluxe Materials 'Track Magic' solution, highly recommended Sam. ;)

Hey Sam so I probably haven't too seen look so cool with that hornby of character I think anyway well how do they making bro

Me who just accidentally Broke a point while fixing a derailment issue: Interesting

Pulled some old tarnished brass Fleischmann rails out to make a temporary test track & used Brasso & a soft cloth to shine them up to work beautifully.

Nice video Sam. Would be nice if you could do more mythbusting with model railways. Your "experiments", older model reviews and themes running sessions really sets you apart from other channel. Looking foward to you getting 100k subscribers soon!

Polar solvent or not, I would have thought that the IPA will have evaporated away shortly after use. Thereby, leaving zero residue. I don’t think the polarity of the solvent would therefore be an issue.

Bro you can use that thing to clean the track if their is Covid-19 on the track

Hi Sam, great video. I use the gaugemaster track cleaner - it is a tank in HO made out of brass so extremely heavy with a piece of corduroy cloth that rubs on the tracks. I fill the tank with 'Goo Gone' which then drips onto the cloth, it is a brilliant cleaner. In fact the tank is so heavy I have to use a pair of 37's top and tailing it! Also it has the advantage of cleaning the loco wheels as well! My layout is 20" x 11" and I never worry about fish plates or voltage drop as it is DCC and almost every rail is individually connected to the bus line!

Thank you Sam for the video. I am not sure you have proved your point. I think it is fair to say that polishing of metal involves scratching. Sites about the making of jewellery make it clear that polishing involves making smaller and smaller scratches. However, the video by Model Railways Unlimited where new track is viewed under a microscope and the far from perfect surface demonstrated and the subsequent results of using a Peco track rubber are shown is most interesting and perhaps redeems track rubbers. The website for Cabling Installation Maintenance does not give IPA a ringing endorsement for cleaning fibre optic cable. It is asserted that isn’t a brilliant cleaner and that it does leave a residue. Apparently IPA is hydroscopic, that is it attracts moisture to itself. The headroom in IPA containers as well as its exposure to the air brings about this effect. The suggestion is that once opened our 99.9% IPA will reduce itself to a lower purity over time and stabilises at about 65/35. I am not sure polar and non polar is pseudoscience, although I am far from being a scientist. The dielectic constant shown in the Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine article dated 5 May 2019 seems to make sense as does the view that the build up of muck is caused by electrical arcing. Consequently, a cleaner with a low dielectic constant looks like a good idea. In the old days I guess we would have used carbon tetrachloride for certain cleaning jobs. I am starting new with O gauge. Having sprayed the track with sleeper grime, I cleaned the heads with white spirit (mineral spirits in the USA and Canada). I was most unsure about this, but from a non polar point of view it is good. Consequently, I am going to go down the Inox MX3 road. I think I am unlikely to experience traction issues and I won’t have any traction tyres. However, your point that model railways isn’t just about electrical contact was well made and I see the benefits of Inox MX3 to slot car racers may not be directly applicable to model railways. It occurred to me that Peco Power Lube, formerly Electrolube, has been about for years.

I have modelled railways for over 50 years and the Peco track rubber is the best method. I have a rubber that's 11 years old, one doesn't need to rub hard to get tarnish off. A very informative video, there again, that's why I watch you :)

Hi Sam a splendid video indeed. I must admit that track cleaning has been a grey area but I now use a track cleaning car after using the rubber,no problems at all.

I just use a Peco track rubber. I've had the same one for about 10 years. The track gets cleaned fairly regularly, maybe once every two months (or as I see fit). Never had any issues.

Absolutely spot on Sam. I use a Peco rubber too and I've never had any problems with it. I also use my Dapol track cleaner in vacuum mode only. (I found that some of the rotating pads caught point blades.) I've found IPA and a cotton bud is ideal for cleaning between point blades and the adjacent rails.

Hi Sam - for what it's worth I've used IPA on a cotton bud on narrow gauge tracks and it works superbly, evaporating quickly and leaving no residue (quick tip - you can also use it for cleaning video recorder and audio cassette heads if you're old skool). I would urge caution about using WD40 on trackwork - not because it won't work but because WD40 can have catastrophic effects on loco chassis with lots of plastic in there (Obviously Hornyby Dublo and the like will not have this problem). A friend tried WD40 to clean a Berlinerbahn TT loco chassis - which promptly fell apart! Forewarned is forearmed

Sam. without going through hundreds of comments, you had left off one very easy and quite pleasurable way of cleaning your track: run trains on them. the voltage alone keeps a fair amount of residue off, same with the wheels. one small trainset I have is standard gauge: yes, they tend to run at higher volts (15 to 25) and yes the sheer weight (402E is around 4kg) but even with 90 year old rusty tinplate rails with nails for connectors and not used for months at a time, still runs. keep those wheels rolling :)

Great video, Sam and very informative. I also heard about track rubbers leaving mess but I've never had any problems with my Peco one. In fact, I prefer to use the track rubber on my smaller layouts, it just seems to make things run well. For my main track in the loft I've always used contact cleaner. I spray it on to a smooth cotton cloth and run it over one rail at a time. I also use this sprayed on cotton buds to clean wheels and such. And the same as you, I vacuum my track, too :)) All the best mate....Tom

I have been using track rubber for about 30 years had no trouble with them at all keep up the good work Sam telling everybody 🇬🇧

As a "rugroader" I do sometimes experience stuff getting caught in the motion of my locos, although this is probably more from my socks than anything else. So on my temporary floor layouts I try to vacuum the track and surrounding area with my vacuum cleaner every time before a run. Märklin models with their traction tires will invariably leave a nice deposit of gunk on the track after a while, as well as picking it up, so the track cleaning could be more important here. They also have a nice little cleaning wagon with sprung felt pads which seems to work well enough. Some people also claim the AC current removes the dirt, but I have no evidence for that. The ultimate goal is obviously to have a permanent layout up off the floor, keeps them much cleaner and you don't have to risk stepping on your models... now if only I could afford that big house with room for a layout. ;) PS: I believe I know the video and chap you're refering to.

To build on a couple of points Sam mentioned, i you're having trouble with a fishplate I find clamping the rails in a vice together and then squeezing them together with pliers a little bit helps. Then for the track rubber argument, the only time I've ever had a lot of dust generate is when I leave my layout for a while and have to clean the older steel rails which rust to a point were the conductivity is negligible, meaning the voltage simply can't power the locos, even then I just keep a small vacuum cleaner I keep in the loft to go over these areas. If anyone says avoid using a track rubber just don't listen, they're great, an absolute necessity to your railway

Thanks for responding to the anti track rubber video. My Fleischmann rubber is very efficient. Here's a thought for you - when I was young in New Zealand my family had a large Marklin layout and we NEVER needed to clean the track! I think it ran faultlessly for around 30 years. My father became hooked on Marklin when they were visiting Germany in 1952 and spent the budget on trains!

A very interesting post. I know a dealer who regularly uses lighter fluid on his track cloth. It's amazing. Steveo

Great video. I use a peco track rubber too. I use hornby ones for loco/wagon wheel cleaning if the dirt is stubborn, but they're not very effective cleaning track. I got a gaugemaster one, but I found it too big for some sections with limited clearance, and it sheds material quite a bit more then the peco one, so I've restricted its use to the 0 gauge stuff, where it fits over both rails of 0 gauge track perfectly fine. I also use noch axle-hung track cleaning pads (I have 4 of them somewhere), although these get mucky quite quickly. I've also recently started using a triang track cleaning vehicle with replacement felt, but I put IPA on the felt to clean better. This would be ideal for harder to reach bits like my fiddle yard. Ideally, I'd get a sharge track cleaning vehicle, the uk version of the cmx cleaner which is a bit lighter but also 1/3 of the price, which you fill with cleaning fluid of your choice and it goes round cleaning track very well. On my list is a dapol track cleaning vehicle, to use exclusively as a vacuum like you do, but I keep putting off the purchase.

Hi Sam, what a nice well balanced video and thanks for the shout and link. I do recommend 'WD40 Contact Cleaner' now after decades of using IPA. There should be no loss of traction as it evaporates as fast as IPA but it would be an interesting test all the same. Going back to the Peco track rubber I 100% agree and while I've not needed to use it since switching fluids, I fully intend to carry on using it as needed, like you showed, there is no need to scrub the rails, just lightly pass it over a few times and occasionally clean the rubber! As to track damage, I did a video using a microscope that shows in fact, used properly the rubber smooths the rails down (burnishing) Great stuff mate, Mike.

Hi Sam, great video. Here's my theory for track cleaning. If you look at the real railway, you will notice that the regularly used track is nice and shiny and the least used track is dull and almost rusty by comparison. So to keep your track clean, just keep running trains and that is the best part of the hobby. By the way I only have to clean my track 2or3 times a year. I use electrical contact cleaner on points and a peco track rubber for the rest of the track. Keep up the good work. Cheers Chris.

If you are experiencing a power drop between one side of your layout and the other. You could try 1 of 3 things, # 1 solder your rail joints. #2 solder a jumper wire over the joints. #3 bus power threw heavy gauge wire, and connect from bus wire to the track in multiple places around the track. "Cleaning" the track I use 2000-5000 grit polishing sandpaper no residue left behind no scratch marks either. You use that fine of grit you are buffing and not sanding.

Loved this video yes please do the follow up. Thanks for sharing. I am new to model railroading this was of great help and informative. Keep up the great work! Well done Sam!

excellent video Sam, very informative my old layout i used the good ol' Peco track rubber, never had an issue with it. As for after cleaning I had a triang box van with a felt pad underneath, soaked that is a LITTLE surgical spirit and ran it up and down a few time (it as an end to end layout and that first cleaned the rail heads, then after the spirit evaporated, gave it a quick buff. If I needed to give the rails a real going over, say after a few weeks when it was out of use due to track relaying or the like, a gentle rub over with superfine jewelers quality emery paper (FF grade) would do a fine job. And a trick i used with fish plates. in places where the track joins were permanent I would secure the plates with a tiny dot of solder to ensure a good connection. In places where I thought I may need to break the track for relaying or base board movement, i would bridge the fishplate with a tiny piece of copper wire soldered to the outside of the rails bridging the fishplate area in such a way that is could be snipped or de-soldered easily. This assured good connectivity and smooth running on all track

Sam great to see you are coming up on 100,000 subscribers way to go.

Sam - outstanding video ...and a great topic. Good to see you are honest. I wouldn't spend a mint on a "final" layout EITHER, iF I knew it was not a place I was going to stay at for any massive length of time. Fishplates - We call 'em "joiners" here in the US....point well taken though - make sure those things are in perfect shape and clean before you use them. Electrical contact is EVERYTHING to achieve a clean, smooth, running railroad..... As you've shown, I would also suggest just vacuuming the track after you clean it....with whatever you decide to use. In fact, vacuum the track every 3 weeks or so regardless. I've also had basic success with a VERY FINE grit sandpaper lightly run over the rails....followed by a great wiping with isopropyl alcohol......(always use 99% pure folks), finally followed by a final vacuuming. I tried that "Rail Zip" crap....and it was BAD - DON'T do it as it LEFT a residue that just caused me trouble. After cleaning your rails....it's also good to clean your cars and loco wheels at the same time so the dirt from the locos and cars don't get tracked back ONTO your clean rails! Is it a pain?....yeah...it is...but a good running model railway is WELL worth it! Keep those car wheels clean! For slot car fans (as I am one also), these same basic principles described above apply.

Hi Sam, lots of handy hints and “bravo” with regards the track rubber myth busting! 👏 I am a bit naughty as I use 3000 glass paper if I haven’t used mine for a while, purely because it is outdoors and gets very dirty! It doesn’t damage anything though, and when I use the railway regularly I barely have to clean it. Oh, and the “rule of four” is spot on! That will always shift it! 😉 I bought a hand-held hoover for £50 which sucks up any dirt and also helps keep my shed fairly dust free! 👍 Actually, I am off until Monday and now the wind has dropped and it is sunny out, I may well go and give it all good clean 🤔 Cheers matey! 🍻👍🌈

I have a small ho scale track that I keep having to take apart and clean, this will help! Thanks!

I use a cheap battery operated vacuum cleaner and IPA on a cotton swab. But after seeing your video I might give the cleaning block a try on my Trix rails. Thanks for sharing this interesting video!

I’m glad that you don’t have problems with carpet dander. That’s what caused all the problems I had when I ran trains on my bedroom floor!!

You mean to say I've been feeling guilty for using a track rubber all this time for no reason! 🤦🏻‍♂️ Well done Sam, great job dispelling the myths 👍

Sam, very helpful advice about the points. I had never thought of that. And I liked when you talked of the danger of flaps becoming loose. Always something to be aware of haha!

Sam: creates this video about cleaning and maintaining model railways Me who can’t afford a model railway: interesting But I must say, your videos keep me sane while I’m quarantined into my house! Thanks 😊 for keeping me cheered up !

Justice for track rubbers, finally lol. My old layout used to be outside (under cover ofc, but it was the only place I could put it at the time) and for the 3 years I had that layout, I used a track rubber. I only ever had to buy one, and I still have it. Easily the best $5 spent on my layout

Thanks for the video full of useful info as usual. I use an old Hornby R344 in conjunction with IPA, it’s worked for me with no problems .

Was thinking about this video recently because I tried something new; carburetor air intake cleaner. Just sprayed a bit onto a Jay cloth and gave the rails a wipe and it did a brilliant job.

so close to 100k mate! Wish you all the best for the exiting (and nearby) future.

Hi Sam. Just been talking to the person you referred to. He even rants in his replies. He said Peco rubbers are the worst. People have been using them for years with no problems. Then he started on isopropyl alcohol, wow I almost lost the will to live. Think the bloke needs professional help. I did use the argument you put forward but did not mention you. Keep safe mucker. Pete and Su.

Hey Sam. I've seen the video in question and I have to say I agree with you more on the subject - I've personally been using alcohol and Peco rubber cleaners for nearly 15 years and haven't run into any major issues however I did want to get your thoughts on something. One thing the video claimed is that the rubber can leave deposits on your track which will get on your wheels, I have had this issue on stock that covers a lot of distance each month. I try my best to make sure lubricants stay off the track and 95 percent of the stuff I run has metal wheels. I don't remember having this issue in the past however this issue seems to have started after I started using the Peco branded one, instead of the one I had been using years before. Do you suspect this is due to something else or related? Thanks ~Harrison

My track cleaning set up includes a a Peco track rubber for heavy cleaning and for general cleaning I use a a train pushing a Hornby track cleaning wagon with slightly more weight added and a HO scale tanker wagon track cleaning wagon with a foam pad underneath where you can put a track cleaning fluid liquid onto. I would then use my train tech track tester to check if I am getting conductivity around the layout. The track cleaning fluid I use is track magic by Deluxe materials. Track magic is a great product as I had to clean up a Scalextric track for my brother and it was very dirty and starting to show signs of corrosion. I used the Peco track rubber to get rid of the worst of the dirt then applied the track magic and noticed one of its claims comes true as it prevents corrosion, the rust spots went from the rusty brown to a grey silver colour.

Hi Sam! My name is Leo, and I wanted to start by saying thank you for having the videos like these. When I started watching your videos over a year ago, hey gave me the confidence to be able to get out there and start my own remodel railway. On to the real reason I am commenting, I use both IPA and CFC free contact cleaner in my day to day at work, and I’ve noticed that when cleaning my tools, (they have a chromed finish on them) that contact cleaner does seem to leave a bit of a film on them. So I would love to see what you find out by using it on your model railway, and why effect, if any that the contact cleaner has. Thank you again for all the wonderful videos, and have a wonderful day!

I’ve used the Dapol track cleaning car when I worked at Gulliver’s Gate. Like you I only used it as a vacuum cleaner, and boy, the amount of dust picked up each week was amazing. I had four of them there. Since the layouts were DCC what I did was install a rectifier in each car so they would operate at full speed while the locomotive (DCC fitted) would pull them at a more reasonable speed.

Absolutely smashed a few myths there then Sam, well done. I am a bit of a newby when it comes to Railway modelling. I did watch a video by Fishplates; a very interesting guy to say the least when it comes to his 'delivery'. He is convinced, as a long serving electrician, that using INOX which is a conductive lubricant is best. However, I take your point that lubricants could reduce grip, which is essential to getting up inclines, even if you have used the magnet powerbase system from DCC Concepts, which uses weighted magnets and metal plates under your track, to assist in climbing inclines; which I discovered that it does. I might consider using a Peco Track Rubber now after this video. I would love you to do a video on comparing INOX, along with other types. Cheers, Rick the Bulldog of Digon Alley Station.

Informative as always Sam, keeping your track clean, is paramount for good running....thanks as always...Bob

Handy tip: glue a track rubber onto the end of a short piece of 2 x 1 timber to make a handle; makes it much easier to use, particularly for track towards the back of your layout.

Again great video Sam. I find using methylated spirit dose a great job of cleaning the tracks aswell as the loco wheels

I hardly ever have to clean my track because using an artists graphite pencil (not a big lump of graphite which is too course) I very lightly glide the pencil along the track maybe 2 strokes for every length treated. The train wheels are never dirty and electrical charge not impaired and nothing is damaged. You can get the pencils at any good artists supply shop for about £8. It’s over a year since I last had to clean the tracks.

My layout is in a detached garage that gets cold when I'm not in there with a heater on and I usually don't spend time in there during the winter months. It means that there can be a number of weeks with no use and the rails get quite dirty. I have found that the Hornby club red 0-4-0 Bagnal diesel shunter runs quite happily on the dirty track, it's often the only loco that will run on my track when dirty. I will often use it with the Hornby track cleaning carriage running around my 3 continuous circuits for about 30 minutes at a time which gets most of the grime off however I get best results going around with the Pico track rubber and use it on the branches. I also use IPA with good results and a glass fiber pen for the points though it takes time as I have 40 set of points on my layout! My solution for fish plates is Conductive Wire Glue, a little drop into the fish plate on assembly and all surfaces are electrically connected, if it's a small drop then a good waggle and pull will break the joint without damage if the layout needs changing.

Sam explains things really really well, great vid mate :)

I made a rolling sponge wagon years ago when I had a track layout. Put WD40 on the sponge and sent it around the track. Damn that sponge did a good job.

When I had layouts in my childhood, I had a truck with an alcohol cleaning liquid on the first train of the day. It cleaned the track and my trains run well!!

Chemical engineer here. Even at 70%, the IPA lowers the boiling point of the solution enough that the water isn't sticking around long, especially with any kind of breeze. Go ahead and use it. Plus the 28% water is going to be a lot cleaner than water coming out of the tap, with little to no dissolved salts, so it's not going to hurt much. 70% also works better for disinfecting things... Hopefully that's not relevant to cleaning track but just tossing that out there. It's also worth noting that one of the big selling points for nickel silver over steel or brass for track is that its oxide is conductive rather than insulating, which is really cool. I think that's one reason some people are against using track rubbers, they can unnecessarily take off the surface oxide and wear down track over time. But if you're not going crazy on it maybe it matters less? Anyway I really should clean my track... Especially the steel sections...

Oh dear, Sam, If you look at the piece of brass that you demonstrated with, you will notice that the rubber has scratched the brass, It can do this to your track as well. I now use my track rubbers for smoothing edges of cut timber. I use the track cleaner which is made of brass, and holds fluid.

Nice method of cleaning your track, it keeps things nice and clean!

Hi Sam Well put together, useful and very informative!

If you have a large run then the best way to avoid potential voltage drop is to have additional wires from the controller to the track further round. Run them under the baseboard bringing them up at the chosen point and solder them to the rails.

I was having some trouble with mine, so I eventually just polished it with a rotary tool Also solder your joints if you aren't going to disassemble 2 tracks

abrasives in particular are a real no-no if you have a hybrid metal for rails. Lego 9V track for instance is electroplated copper - If you expose the copper it oxidised (goes green) - that oxidization will creep through the material and makes the moving parts in the points brittle. In a high salt and humidity environment like coastal Australia, it's basically game over for your track once its started.

Nice review Sam ,I’ve never had trouble with Peco track rubber ,it really does depend on how you use it ,gently is my way & it works ,but do it often .😊

Before i got the track rubber, ive always used 99.9 alcohol ipa, and what i did to stop the track getting dirty easier, was to just leave it alone for 15 min and thats it, and it worked absolutly fantastic

Hello Sam! I personally use Bachmann E-Z Lube track cleaning solution for my small oval of Bachmann E-Z steel track, mainly because it was the cheapest on Amazon at the time and I don’t have a lot of money. It does do a good job of keeping the track clean, however, it leaves a conductive film over the track that is actually quite slippery and oily and so I have to run a loco for 5-10 minutes before it wears off. I usually apply the track cleaner with either Q-Tips or a microfiber cloth or towel, usually every 3-4 days because of heavy usage and, well, it’s steel. I only have three locomotives (all Bachmann Thomas and friends) and 5 pieces of rolling stock (again, all Thomas and Friends), so for me it does a fine job. If you do happen to do a video on track cleaning solutions, I would suggest checking this one out. Wish you all the best!

One thing NOT to do, is put your rails in a dishwasher... More seriously, thanks for the tips on maintenance of your tracks, it's very interesting. Especially the part when you removed a fishplate with a screwdriver, I did not thought doing this. Budget Model Railways had tested cleaning a locomotive with WD-40 and the engine was properly running after this operation. There might be other products more suited for cleaning, and not polar too as WD-40 is not a polar one as far as I know. I'm waiting for your benchmark, that would be interesting. By the way, IPA 99,9 % costs around GBP 15 to 30 a litre, I found some on Amazon. You can try by yourself now.

I'm not terribly keen on abrasive cleaners, but the Peco one is brilliant for cleaning up track with small nicks on the running surface, or even tiny blobs of solder. It will remove most imperfections and leave a lovely smooth surface. Glass fibre pens work well but leave nasty debris that can stick into your skin as micro splinters. My preferred method is to use the CMX cleaning wagon. It's an American HO product and resembles a bogie tanker wagon, but is made of solid brass - it weighs a ton - with a spring loaded cleaning pad that is pressed against the track. The tanker part holds the cleaning fluid which is then allowed to drip onto the pad via an adjustable outlet so that it is constantly being replenished. I prefer to use automotive brake cleaner as my cleaning fluid; it dries almost instantly and leaves no residue while being harmless to most plastics and very cost effective at around £10 for 5 litres. You need a powerful loco to push this wagon because there is friction between the cleaning pad and the rails, but after three passes you can rub your finger along the rail and you will see no dirt on your finger at all. If you rub before cleaning you will bet a horrible black line on your finger. This wagon cleans only and won't remove any imperfections in the track but it works brilliantly. There is only one downside - mine cost about £150! It's a case of being pleased to have spent more money than you wanted to because the result is really good.

Using a track rubber just skiffing over points one a month makes a big difference,will purchase Fibre pen to clean them properly,thanks for the tip Sam

I use a hand held Shark vacuum cleaner to suck up up dust from the track. A small soft paint brush helps loosen dust too. If track rubbers were bad for cleaning track they would not be available/sold. The Peco ones have been around for years.

Finally a common sense approach. Really good tip about the fishplates. When I get my layout up and running I will probably trial a strong magnet glued to a wagon to grab any potential debris.