Yes, I was just reaching the same conclusion - weird arrangement - did you find a fix Mokaro? On mine, it's just the start key that's not working - I see there is a capacitor and pull-down resistor on the start signal - I can change the timing a bit by changing the c and R there, if that's the cause... I'm also not sure what to do with the door and temp sensor inputs when the board is on the bench, to allow the start button to be tested...

@@NathanBentall just cut the third pin starting from the right of the display. You will lose some parts of the display but normally your microwave will be functioning. You can also use a fast switching diode on this third pin. This way you will have a full display but with dimmer parts on some digits.

@@mokaro1427 Thanks for the suggestion - I tried it, but still not working on mine. Maybe there's another digit due my display being slightly different, or maybe it's another issue on mine. I trie third pin in on from both ends (as I wasn't sure if looking at front of the display or the back to judge 'right hand', but although there were some segments missing, as you said, the start button still not working. I might power the board up back on the bench and try some other similar things - when I had it powered on the bench (from bench supply) I wasn't 100% sure I'd faked all the door switches etc. but of course much easier to try stuff when powered from 5v&12V bench supply. Mine is a slightly different model to the one in the vid, but PCB looks V similar, and has same strange display/button scan arrangement - I'm not sure quite how it's supposed to work - I guess they tried to reuse th display scanning pins to some how multiplex the keypad - the micro on there seems to have a zillion pins, though - hard to imagine the pin count was really that pushed - but without schematic, (and maybe source code) hard to say for sure. I might have to stump up for a replacement PCB - but I wonder it it will suffer the same fate in a couple of years time... Thanks again.

@@NathanBentall actually I tried my solution on several Samsung microwaves, and it worked like a charm. I guess that you have other faulty components on your PCB, power relay for instance, oscillator, chips...etc. If some reason you endup replacing the PCB and the microwave works again, I advise you to switch the display whenever you're finished using it. That way no problem at all. If you forget to switch off the display and some buttons don't work as usual, you have to unplug the power cord for a week or two. It depends on models. But for those who are not confortable with opening a microwave (fatal voltage at the SHV capacitor) it is the best solution. Unplug it from the wall, wait two weeks to be sure and try it. If the buttons work again, just remember to switch off the display as soon as you're finished.

Hey @@mokaro1427 , I was looking to do this with mine and I've cut the second pin from the right (which deactivated the top right of my digits) but I'm looking to cut the bottom left now (the one that keeps shining even when off) as the previous action didn't make enough improvement (stop and start still not working but other buttons ok) - I'll loose most of my display but at least my microwave will be functionning I hope. Would you know which pin is associated to this bottom left light on digits ?