yes 100times yes...

yes!!!!all i did was open and tighten every screw and now it turns on. before it would keep turn on and off for 30 mins untill it startes

This is probably cracked solder joins underneath the main bga chip.Authorized service centers usually do not repair but replace boards.A perfect reflow might solve the problem,well equiped tv technicians or laptop consoles technicians having knowledge on bga treatment can repair it and after this it needs a few days for testing.

Yes quite a common failure mode.

Yes it was a strange one. I have seen 5 or 6 with the same fault, ,but didn't bother filming them because I have already done it.

tech should have not given you their Company's secret, inter-office-only pamphlet on how to confuse non-tech, Luddite customers with _"troubling steps"_ .... He should have given you the flow-chart diag series for _"Troubleshooting TV Circuits for Dummy's"_

It's a fairly common issue on many sets.

Can u fix mine? 😜

+JacksJunkDotCom The Kenwood is a tmv7. The display is fubar. The local ham shop had on that they said just the light was out, but it is also fubar. It is failing the exact same way the original failed, 1 colum at a time. I don't know that I can even find a new one. My tm741 in my car also recently failed, so I am radio less now.

Jeon Frank hey, I'm a bit confused on what I should do, can you please clarify for me?

+Blahblox Gyuanox I at first thought perhaps the power switch assembly was causing the problem because in order to remove the back you have to unplug the IR sensor / switch assembly as it is attatched to the back cover, but nope, turned out to be a loose ground screw.

Time out problem.???

Mine is doing the very same thing and I'm not a very smart in this area. Ive tried everything he said in this video

+Benjamin “Ozias” Esposti Loose ground screws cause many problems, including brown parts in the case of plasma sets where they are high voltage and high current devices.

+Benjamin “Ozias” Esposti It's a fairly common problem on a lot of audio equipment, particularly power amplifiers or other components that normally run warm. I can't imagine it being all that different with an HDTV, especially where various boards, complete with heat emitting parts, are connected to the chassis ground in virtually the same way as its done with a power amp. When the unit's on, things get warm. When it's off, things cool down. The resultant thermal expansion and contraction, and the fact that dissimilar materials have differing rates of expansion and contraction, can allow the mounting screws to loosen up over time, among other things (such as cracked solder joints). That brings up another topic, which 12voltvids is very much right about in another thread here in this video; the use of lead free solder due to RoHS compliance, as well as what such material wreaks once joints made with it fail prematuely. Ironic in that an environmental regulation meant to mitigate the problem of pollution from e-waste can actually exacerbate it when devices are disposed of well before their expected end-of-life due to problems arising from failed solder joints, especially when the problem involves large scale ICs soldered onto a board using a ball grid array. I'll tell you, those problems with the RRoD on the XBox 360 and the YLoD on the PS3 wouldn't have been nearly as bad if the processor BGAs used lead-alloy solder instead of that lead-free garbage Microsoft and Sony were forced to use courtesy of the European Union...

+Watcher3223 Just repaired another plasma today. Video will be up tonight. Multiple component failure due to lead free solder.

12voltvids Nice. Looking forward to watching it.

+Watcher3223 Being uploaded now.

Usually there are at least 2 screws on the A/V board area. You'll need to look closely to find them.

Firmware update

Tap and rethread the stripped hole. If that doesn`t work,tap the hole with a bigger tap and change the screw for that size.

I had an issue to were my TV was power cycling. I disconnected the wireless module and the power cycling stopped. I later bought a replacement wireless module and ever since the TV works fine.

My Samsung UN55NU8000 is in an endless on/off loop (no image, just welcome sound and panel lights on/off) since plugged to power, this every 3-4 seconds. What could be the problem?

Thermal expansion of dissimilar metals. Typically the chassis is made of steel and the screws an alloy of a softer metal. As the device heats and cools the metals expand and contract at different rates. Eventually they work loose.

Nope, the video that was playing had lightning flashes before fading to black and the next one starting. At 5:28 you will see the backlights fluttering for a second, then go out before coming back on for the next shot. Full array dimming, and that is how they trick you to make an LCD screen have more contrast. They dim the back lights depending on screen content. When the set was acting up it totally shut down, and then would restart. That set is working fine today. Owned by a friend and he would let me know if it was still problematic.

Can you say bricked. I knew you could. I bricked a gopro once. Was not happy.

D NICE Yup happens all the time. Bloody modern electronics garbage.

I have fixed hundreds of problems caused by loose grounding screws. You know how many have come back? Zero. Tightening the screws is not flexing the board. The board is flush on the chassis. On many plasma sets the loose screws causes parts to blow.

Nope. The backlight, like all modern sets dims, and shuts off completely on a black scene. It was between clips, where the picture was black. You see it come on again just before the camera cuts as the next video started playing.. 3 years later this set is still running fine. This is done to increase the contrast on LCD televisions, otherwise you would have a glowing screen when the image should be completely black. If you unplug the HDMI the lights will stay on so that the "No Signal" message can be displayed, but if video black is received, it turned them out completely so that there is no light. leaking through.

+Bri G. All those plug in modules were a source of constant problems.Zenith, RCA and Motorola all had big time problems with module connections.Philips to a lesser degree with the modular 4, as there were only 4 boards in it. Horizontal sweep, Vertical sweep, Video/Chroma, and IF/Audio.

Wasn't Quasar the first tv to have plug-in boards in 1976?

12voltvids I see you have a Japanese made oscilloscope.

+Bri G. Yes it is an Iwatsu, I bought it new in 1984. Been a great unit for the past 30+ years. Invaluable when I need a scope.

+Bri G. No Philips had it in 1971.Here is an archived ad. news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1946&dat=19711021&id=7YY1AAAAIBAJ&sjid=5qEFAAAAIBAJ&pg=5405,2930449&hl=enThe first color TV my parents had was one of there. My grandmother had a Philips K6 in 1968, and I saw the moon landing on it.

That's all it was, because if it wasn't this one would have flown back so fast it would make your head spin. Owned by a friend, whose ring tone is "asshole calling..... ASS HOLE CALLING, There's an asshole on the end of the line" So if it didnt fix it, the set would have come back. Many problems caused by loose ground screws. You should study electronics. When the chassis is used as a ground point for multiple grounds that are not electrically connected on the board a loose screw can cause intermittant issues on the minor side, to component failure on the major side which happened a fair bit on certain panasonic plasma TVs.

Not much easier tickon boald

+umajunkcollector You know the drill..The warranty expiration timer, coupled to the random fault generator = more sales to ChinaMart.On this set I made a few bucks from the owner, and more money every month from KZfaq.

Planned obsolescence, try to get repair parts. I am bugged at Sony and Canon because of product fails. You get a very nice Sony, pay extra for it, but are very lucky to get more than two years of use from it, before you have to dispose of it. May as well get a cheapo Samsung, or Sharp, and that may last a whopping ten years at that, ha ha. They even have throw away cars, called KIA or Fiat! A Cadillac is just a glorified Chevy, like JVC could be a glorified Panasony. Why pay extra for the brand name if you must junk it in a year or so (as in Apple i-crap)? Don

+umajunkcollector Absolutely. Nothing these days is built to last. Some of the blame can be laid on government mandates to reduce the use of hazardous substances ROHS rules. This stipulates that stull like lead, and hazardous chemicals used in the past can not be used anymore, and the substitutes are, for lack of a better word CRAP! Lead free solder is a disaster waiting to happen. It was the high lead content of the old solder that allowed it to remain flexible, which allowed for better wear when stressed with thermal expansion of the joints it was holding together.That is not the only problem. The big problem with capacitors has been the move to water based electrolytic solutions. With cars, the modern car is a lot more reliable then they used to be. I remember some of my first cars I was having constant problems. Brakes, wheel bearings, charging systems, carburators. You were lucky if you got 50,000 miles before it was worn out. My dad had 2 old Mercedes diesels. One from 1963, it was totally worn out (and rusted through) by 1970 when he bought another. At 50,000 miles it needed an engine rebuild. By 1979 the year I learned to drive it had rust holes you could put your fist through all throughout it. My first car was a 1980 mustang with a straight 6. I put 180,000 miles on that car, and my second one 200,000 miles. Perhaps some cheap econobox cars don't last, but most cars these days do last their designed lifespan, which is 15 years, and considering the abuse a car takes just being driven, that is pretty good.

Try updating the software. I had one doing that. Video on the channel.

Shows what you know. Nothing.