I've had one just come into the shop. Thanks SO MUCH for doing this video. I got a push from Audio Karma to look at the dolby-evil and then, found your video. God bless ya. This will save me hours.

I know this is an old thread, but I have to say you did a fin job repairing that Dolby board using spring pumps and solder wick. Back 30 years or so ago I used to repair computers and high-end VCRs with similar ribbon cable/pass-through issues. Since then I have invested in a Hakko desoldering tool that saves me gobs of time and does a much cleaner job than those old cheap spring pumps ever did. Less than $300 and well worth it as I have easily spent that much in solder suckers alone over the years.

Thank you for posting this!! Been waiting years for a video to come out on this. AK Threads were hard to follow. Keep up the great work!

whoa, that's only one board but really lots of effort done, thanks for the video, great work, greetings from the Philippines..

Nice and hard work. Nice to watch!

Thank you for making this video, i will refer back to it when i do my Dolby board.

Love that you review and then go step by step. Thanks for this.

Nice job... But if you dip your solder wick in liquid flux and they use it, it will make the wick suck the solder better and you get a better and cleaner solder pad.

I can see why I don't want a Dolby unit. Great video.

Awesome video!

Holy, moly!! Nice!!

Very nice !

A very labour intensive job.

Great video, I really liked the detail in the description of what was being done. I have an 8080DB I'm working on with a similar problem, the protection circuit on this unit goes green when power is applied, but I get nothing, no sound, no meter movement, NOTHING. I went ahead and performed the work on the Dolby board, just as described here - reworked the pass-through holes on the PCB, and replaced all the caps with brand new ones. However, I'm still not getting anything, same as before, no sound, and no meter movement, does anyone have any suggestions on where to go from here? Thanks.

My favorite desoldering tool is the Hakko FR300 gun. Not painfully expensive compared to full stations and it's a good tool.

Wow you are not kidding !!! That board is a pain !!!

Awesome video man thanks for the info I'm about to get my 8080db recapped and this is definitely a question I'm going to ask them if they rebuild the Dolby board also

I suggest a ZD-985 desoldering station. Its affordable and you can get consumables, I have had mine 2 years and it has not let me down, this unit would have cut your desoldering time considerably. thought I would share

Holy Moly!!

Would anyone happen to have a current parts list for this job including the newer style black ribbon type cables? I'm going to be doing my 9090db dolby board soon.

Another video well done - thanks Mark! I am a little curious on your final time to completion. What did you end-up having into this?

when it comes to vintage stereo equipment #1blueglow

I know this is off the beaten path but I am having trouble finding repair/service info on a 1962 Telefunken Hymnus 5328 MX on you tube as well...I don't want to rip into it without any knowledge

So, would anyone have the TRUE Dolby Switch wafer order?? I mistakenly put the switch togther WRONG

a lot easier using a heat gun on the Pops you can use a paint stripper gun just redesign of the nozzles to a small nozzle for it. put some Flux on first and wave it over the pins and it'll fall out

this sh"t is just fascinting.

They have another "problem", that means the dumping factor! Otherwise, great receiver

Micro Center, Fry's Electronics, Grainger, MSC have electronic repair equipment.

isn't it better to change the Dolby Ic's for a more modern equivalent

with all those pins to clean why don't you use a wick be easier and quicker than a sucker.

must be a very old therd ! radio shack has been gone for years now

why do you need to take the old pins out just check for continuity if there's none just re-solder them. can't see its beneficial to take the old connectors out and replace them

You would save a lot of time if you purchased an electronic pump solder sucker. The cheap Chinese Proskit works good.

when you use the solder sucker your making a mess all over the board use a wik! also clean the pcb after please your driving me crazy

you should use WD40 or penetrating oil on your pots and switches after you clean them this protects them and lubricant resistance surface and stops micro arcking from happening