Your lip-sync is off. SO... not a huge deal... the fix? Since it's kind of bad in this, when I was working with my friend with his ad for some product he was selling, we recorded with lapels, and with the cam mics as well. FOR SYNCING reason, some people turn that off. BUT I don't recommend it, made it super easy to perfectly match peaks in audio on the devices that way.

Thanks man! I plan to

You're very welcome! Glad I could help 🙏

Thank you! Obrigado(?) Excellent point. It *may* be possible to find replacements in a hardware store, but it would be a huge pain. Definitely treat those screws like they can't be replaced.

The case is more like once the screws get stripped you simply cant take the plate unless you drill through. So it may be wise to get a mounting plate separetly.

@@Hops_fgc Hey how you doing? Good I hope. I've been to Ace Hardware and Home Depot and can't remove the mounting plate screws. Need help. What did you use?

@@teddyy80 the screws for the plate come off with a Phillips #2 sized screw driver. If you're asking about the kit I'm using specifically, it's a tool kit from ifixit. The Phillips 2 head is included in their "Moray" kit and larger.

I believe an 8-32 type screw works.

Muito obrigado! Disculpe se meu Português e ruim; eu so falo um pouco de Espanhol.

Was very busy the last month, hope I can still help. Considering the 8BitDo already has a pretty light spring, I'm going to guess your issue is more oversteering than understeering? i.e. are you getting a lot of accidental jumps? I'd recommend starting out by upgrading to a proper Sanwa JLF, which the 8Bit's lever is a copy of. It's a very neutral option, so it's a common point of reference. You'll hear a lot of other levers compared against it. You can get them on Amazon: www.amazon.com/SANWA-JLF-TP-8YT-SK-Adjustable-Tournament-Compatible/dp/B005BIC9QE Or from a specialty store like Arcade Shock: arcadeshock.com/collections/joysticks/products/sanwa-denshi-joystick-w-base-harness-jlf-tp-8yt-sk You'll also need to get a 5 pin cable to plug in the lever: arcadeshock.com/products/ex-gear-joystick-conversion-harness-for-8bitdo-mayflash-arcade-sticks If I'm right about the lever feeling too light for you, I'd recommend trying out some heavier springs. JLFs have a 1lb spring by default. So try out a 1.5 or 2lb and see if that helps: arcadeshock.com/collections/springs/products/ex-springs-upgrade-or-replacement-for-sanwa-denshi-jlf-hori-hayabusa-joysticks If you really want to fiddle, you can also grab some different actuator sizes: arcadeshock.com/products/ex-gear-oversized-actuators-for-sanwa-denshi-jlf-series-joysticks Also I have a video that goes over pretty much everything you can mod on an 8BitDo: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q8xxhLt7y7u9n2g.html

It's good, but a very specialized experience. It makes any circular motion easier at the expense of diagonals. How much will depend on how big of an actuator is put in. At the biggest one, the 13mm, dragon punch motions feel completely alien and borderline impossible. But 360s are brain-dead easy. So it's a trade off. And an octo will definitely work with it, but I'm not sure how well the bigger actuators would knotch into the grooves. So I'd stick with the 12mm, 12.5mm at most.

@@Hops_fgc Thank you, very cool, never had so much issues with DP motions, but on square gate 360 motions and sometimes half-circle motions are less perfect & smooth compared to octa gate , witch is a bummer when I am Playing Dudley / Hugo in 3rd strike, i think i will just use the normal size actuator or try 12,5 if standard was 12. and maby just use 13mm if im gonna play Hugo with 720 super for a long set to get tachi gigas 100% of the time lmao.

@Atlante sorry! YT Studio only showed me one of your comments. The Otto mod should install on any JLF-like lever. I was able to install it on the stock lever from the 8BitDo Arcade Stick without any issue.

@@Hops_fgc Great! I guess I will just buy the kit, see what happens and report back!

Yeah, the clickiness of the Hayabusa comes from the different microswitches it uses from a JLF; so that would transfer over.

Yeah, I have actually! It feels great

Thank you, and great question! The Otto kit does install on the JLF clone from the 8BitDo. A couple caveats; the clone's body holds the switches just a hair higher, and the shape of the switches themselves are nubbier. I found the rounded square gate with the 13mm actuator caused the switches to grind occasionally during actuation. However, the Square gate with the 12.5mm felt great! Here's some pictures: imgur.com/a/JFR9Mvz

@@Hops_fgc Thanks. Would you say an upgrade this route would be better then buying an actual JLF?

@@PKD145 if you're planning on sticking with the 8BitDo for a while, yes. The lackluster parts from the clone are all replaced with the Otto kit. So it feels nearly identical to the JLF modded with one. Only difference is the spring is lighter and the switches feel softer, and both are very much a personal preference thing. The reason to go with the JLF is it will be more reusable down the road. You can swap it into future arcade sticks, etc. Side note: found a fix for the grinding. Total hack, but it works. Wedge something small between the clip and the actuator, even a little folded up bit of paper. It pushes the actuator a bit further up and more inline with the clones switches

@@Hops_fgc Hi! I know this is a couple years late but I was really wondering, how well the OTTO DIY V2 would work with the 8bitDo stick. I do not mind using the square gate but I've never tried a korean lever and this sounded like the perfect middle road option for me. I'm so glad to still see this video and this comment as this atleast gives me confidence to mod the arcade stick I have :) Thank you!

@@copperbeardjackson6530 the V2 doesn't have any meaningful size differences vs the V5. So it should fit just fine. You may have to fiddle with it a bit like I mentioned above though. Glad the video helped you!

Exactly the second point. Teflon-on-Teflon is *extremely* smooth. No grease needed

@@Hops_fgc awesome and thanks for the quick reply. Subscribed 👍

@@dapovi thank you man! Appreciate it 🙏

Oh cool! Thanks for letting me know, I'll have to check it out.

@@Hops_fgc mine's coming in the next hour and a half. I'll let you know what it's like.

@@Hops_fgc It's like a V5 and V2 hybrid, man! It has the snappy, smooth feeling of the v5 and the fast return to neutral from the v2. I have to try it out in-game. I just tried it without my ps5 even on but I feel like it's going to be what I imagined.

That sounds awesome. I love a snappy return to neutral, so I'll have to put that on my to-try list. Thanks for letting me know!

@@Hops_fgc No prob. It's my all-time favorite lever so far. I don't think any japanese lever user could ever dislike it.

I know what you're talking about, that glue that breaks down and gets powdery, right? Cheaper factories use it in place of blue Loctite for some reason. That's wild though, I've never seen that used on a JLF! I just checked mine and none of them have it in the plate screws. If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the ones with glued screws from?

@@Hops_fgc you’ll see glue on the back end of the nut where the thread has gone through. Not the side where you put the screwdriver onto, just to clarify. I found this on a brand new Mayflash F500 Elite. Also on a Etokki Omni Sanwa. And again on a Sanwa JLF fresh from HK Legends Trading arcade parts store. Seems to be a common thing now. Otto should give a warning. It’s next to near impossible to remove such screws. The glue gets inside the threading itself.

@@christpunchers thanks for the clarification! I know exactly what you're talking about, I had the same thing with the screws that hold the 8BitDo arcade stick together. No glue in sight on the threads of my JLFs plate screws. But.. I had another commenter tell me their 8BitDo arcade stick didn't have any glue, so I'm wondering if this is a quality control thing. And either I've been incredibly lucky or you've been unlucky? Thank you for letting me know about this!

@@Hops_fgc I think maybe since some time ago, all the JLF or most of them have the glue. Because all three of my sticks were recently bought within the last 10 days. Two were in already prebuilt sticks and one was directly from a large supplier. Another thing: when installing the Otto kit, there’s no need to put the metal washer back. The plastic that goes underneath spring is enough. The metal washer can’t be centered correctly and may end up causing uneven feeling on move the stick in different directions.

@christpunchers good to know. The last one I bought was direct from Arcade Shock in the US, late October of '21. You could be onto something that this is a recent change; thanks again for letting me know about it. And thanks for the heads up on the washer, I'll try that out!

Funny you mention this... I was just thinking the other day that my main regret with this video was not being explicit enough about how this mod kit effects diagonals. I think these Otto kits are exclusively for 2D games, particularly ones with lots of rolling circle motions. Where diagonals aren't really a destination, just a spot to move past. When I try playing a grappler with lots of 360s the otto mod feels great, but then say... Kazuya in Tekken (or any 3D game for that matter) is basically unplayable.

@@Hops_fgc Wow... I'm considering to buy this since my Tekken experience is terrible because I can't get my electrics as easily as I'd wish. It infuriates me that I learned the f,n,d,df motion as any kid would have learned from their friends in some arcade shop, but the Sanwa JLF absolutely forces me to relearn it. Even a simple QCF motion is harder! So, your veredict is that the V2 is a bad choice for Tekken players who use Mishimas?

@@atlante4368 in my experience it was very difficult to get electrics off with the Otto mod. All the actuator options are large, and the gates restrict the throw. So there's a tiny neutral zone, smaller cardinals, and larger diagonals. That all adds up to make it difficult to time hitting df and 2 on the same frame. So it's very easy to accidentally do something like: d, db, d, df You could of course leave the default actuator of the jlf on, but then it raises the question of how much this is worth it if you're only using a few parts? Have you considered Korean levers? They tend to suit 3D games much better.

@@Hops_fgc Thanks for your in-depth answer! Too bad the Otto may not be a great idea because my Mishima game is crippled because electrics, specially Devil Jin's, are very hard to get consistently. The standard Sanwa just doesn't make sense to me, the whole square gate thing... It makes even QCF motions too inaccurate and unreliable. I modded it in every way possible, with the same underwhelming results. What we are used to, here in my country, is something that looks like a Korean lever. It's called an "Eletromatic" stick, known for its questionable durability, but it was definitely accurate. Back in the day I never had trouble doing wgfs, ewgfs or anything. Problem is, I can't fit one of these in my arcade box due to size and incompatibility with the board. The Korean levers would be awesome, but the import would be incredibly expensive considering shipping, taxes and conversion to local currency. So, at least for now, I'm stuck with this JLF piece of crap... Perhaps I may try the Otto anyway. Maybe playing around with the actuators and the semi circular gate can wield decent results, who knows. But I know I've been warned. Thanks a lot!

@Atlante you're welcome! ahh, okay. That's a different situation then. If nothing local is importing them you have to buy direct, and that can be a hassle. The Otto may still be worth a try, honestly. Lever preference is *very* personal. Best I can do is try and describe things mechanically, and how that felt to me. I have a few thoughts for improving the jlf for you. First, have you tried putting a stiffer spring in it? The default one is light, and more tension would help get back to neutral faster. Second, if you go the Otto route. Use the smallest provided actuator it comes with, only move up if that's not doing it for you. Also, if you're playing Tekken 7 and not an older one, you can "shortcut" the input now with f,d,df+2, i.e. skip the neutral. You have to do it fast so the down registers immediately, but that may be more viable on a JLF with it's shorter engage and throw distance

How is it? I've heard it's a more unique experience than the v5

@@Hops_fgc I’ve never tried the v5 kit but I like the v1 it feels almost like a seimitsu