For the seat post, perhaps you can drill a hole on the seat post tube so you can pass through an iron rod. Then you can use the rod to twist on the sides to move the corrosion. You can use it also to pull the seat post. Good luck!

Take the seat off, then put the seatpost in the vise (with the bike upside-down). That gives you the whole frame as a lever. Try apple cider vinegar for the aluminum-to-steel corrosion, but mostly get that lever action with the seatpost firmly in a vise.

Sodium Hydroxide aka lye is a final stop in the stuck (aluminum) seatpost (in steel bike) train. A few stops before that are: drill hole in seatpost and place rod through it for more leverage, whack seatpost down with hammer and hammer cap, clamp seapost in vise and use frame for leverage, upside down bike frame and pour cola or ammonia into frame to dissolve the aluminum oxide. Note that penetrating oil tends to do almost nothing when the seatpost is aluminum and frame is steel as it is chemically welded into place.. best solution is to fight chemicals with chemicals. Lye can be purchased as drain opener in most hardware stores for not much cost... don't bother with food grade version-- leave that to soap or pretzel makers

I vote keep the xt rear. 1x8 with a 36t chainring. And call it a day. Microshift r8 trigger shifter should work with the xt rear too.

Just bought your birthday bundle. I find your videos both informative and inspirational. I almost didn't go to the bike co-op today to completely tear down and rebuild the rear wheel (which had a bent spindle and a waxy mess where the grease should've been), but I saw this video and I knew I had to get after it. Wheel is fixed now and smooth as butter on a baguette (it's a Peugeot, so the metaphor fits). Anyway, thanks for this inspiration and helping me have a place to put some stickers.

If the post is aluminum drop dry ice into the seat tube through the bottom bracket shell. The aluminum will shrink more than steel breaking the bond. Clamp the seat-post in a vise and turn the frame. I do want to see that seat post puller though.

Clean up the XT Derailleur and get a new Cassette the same size and a friction shifter

Hi Craig, try cutting the seat post 1” from the frame and cut slices into the inside of the seat post using a reciprocating saw. I’ve found this the easiest way for my builds and the less damaging way to the frame. Best of luck and look forward to the next vid 👊

SINGLE SPEED BABY LETSSSS GOOOOO

Friction shifting - does away with the requirement for whatever speeds ;)

Cheap drivetrain suggestion. I "restomodded" a 1983 Raleigh Winner. At one stage I had a 9 speed b twin derailleur with a microshift 9 speed trigger shifter... 11-32 9 speed cassette. All bought in decathlon. After doing various rides of 50-60km ... 2 audax rides of 200km and a charity ride of 225km on this set up, I can be pretty happy recommending it.

I have Microshift's Acolyte 8 speed on my commuter bc it is super robust, easy to tune, cheap, and reliable. The long cage version will handle up to a 48t sprocket so plenty of range options but my commuter has a Sunrace 11-40 which has proven plenty of range for little ole me

Nice one mate, glad you're doing the ride again. 100 miles on a 26er is inspiring dude... also insane:) I really like the frame, it's very cool. I like the stamp behind the seat post. NOICE

Recently torqued on a seized post so hard I split a crack in the top tube several inches, if you care about the frame move gracefully and w caution ❤️ high hopes for yah dude!! You got it!

Why are your videos so addictive and enjoyable? Good bike is this! I really like these old mtbs. ☺️

Im a sucker for a 26" mtb. Cant wait to see how this one ends up!

Flanged bolt and the BB tool. Holds the tool to the bb, then get a breaker bar and a 1” socket. It’s game changer for the breaking the proper crusty free.

Thanks for this. I have this bike and could not work out what it was. Now I know. They are a nice looking frame, reminiscent of a GT and mine is the same colour. Tange is always nice.My front fork were completely knackered to i need some new one but then it will be a nice bike.

Seat post I would take the seat off use a soft wood to protect the end of the seat post and give it a couple of solid whacks with a good sized hammer. The frame needs to be well supported on the ground so all the energy is delivered to the point where it is stuck. With the drive train have you considered a 2X, with 6 or 7 on the back cross chaining is minimal and a friction shifter on the front allows for easy adjustment to avoid chain rub.

Nice frame! I would see a nice flat bar ATB build with Sram Apex 11s drivetrain :)

You should try the Surly Moloko handlebars. It’ll provide more hand position options to prevent your wrists from getting tired in the same spot for 100 miles, while also having many options and positions to hang handlebar bags from.

If you have a vice put the seat in the vice and try to twist it to break it loose

Can't wait to see how it turns out, Craig!

I’ve got an advent x and put on a 46t chainring and my bike flies now!

Loving your videos, you have inspired me to crate my very own 26” retro build, reckon I have spent way too many hours researching tyres, chain lines etc. I am loving it though!

RJ the bike guy made a post extractor. The other option is a bottle of galium.

If the seatpost is aluminum, use gallium. Don't get it on any other aluminum parts.

I can one up you on the poor crank puller techniques. Just this weekend I attempted to pull out a crank before removing the bolt. That left me with a nice stripped thread to deal with... you live and learn 😅

Diesel in tube overnight then air chisel works for getting posts out

My seat post fix, this does sound nutz but... I tied the frame to a tree and tied the seat to my cars towbar and drove slowly away, the seat post popped out. I was told this by an old school mechanic, he said don't twist it or whack it as it just bends the frame. If Babyldn doesn't have a fix then using this method would be good content if anything else

Cant wait to watch this 😁 👍

Hi Craig might it be a help if you drive a wedge between the the seat post clamp. If it spreads ever so slightly it may allow penetrant to reach a bit further down the stem and be the "straw that broke the camels back" Good luck with it in any case, it looks a nice frame

Maybe go for a 40 or 42 chainring if the course is mostly flat? You could have a double if there are still hills an you dont want a huge cassette.

I can wait

here we gooo

I say run the deore rear derailleur with a friction shifter

Mine had a stuck seatpost to....came out with a Vice though.

A pipe wrench does wonders use it to twist it back and forth with someone to hold the other side of the frame. Preferably another burly boy 😂

what’s the brand of those shorts? i need them as i have that tattoo 😂😂 also just bought some stickers ✊🏼

I’m going to need the details of the previous owner to report them to the NSPCB. (National Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Bikes). Not only for the condition but who puts an XT derailleur with the rest of those parts 🤢 **bike snobbery engaged**

You’re doing far too much work. Wd40 makes no good penetrating oil for your situation. What you need is to flip the bike and slap a TON of Kroil in there. Let it sit a few days and every now and then tap on the seat tube for 5 mins or so all over rhe place and make sure you keep adding oil. Kroil is the oil that creeps. Its the right hammer for the job.