I had an oil leak and took my Mazda 5 into the dealer to check. They said it was the oil cooler and the total repair bill was going to be $701.00 DOLLARS!!!! I found this video. The M5 is up on jack stands right now and I've got the cooler off. Going to disassemble in the morning, clean, and try your repair. Thanks for taking the time to share your video. I feel better knowing that it worked for people whether I get it right or not. Play it forward....Thank you!

Doing this now...07 cx7 new gaskets were $12.78 at the dealership...added insurance... great video!!! 👍

Great videos! Thanks. My experience- I've done the exact same on my Mazdaspeed 3 (same cooler on the earlier models). I was very careful and cleaned the mating surfaces well. It lasted a month. I created a new gasket using hard cork gasket material and RTV. It lasted 2 months. FWIW, I used no RTV on the original metal engine mating gasket either time and have found no leaks there.

Thanks for posting. I replaced a gasket with one I bought on eBay for a CX-7 and it worked great! For those who will install; note that the sensor is removed by pushing in on the tab and pulling out.

I had a problem with the oil cooler on my wife's 2009 Mazda C5. My son and I decided to just completely remove the oil cooler. We went on ahead and spliced the "coolant hoses" after removing the Oil Cooler. In my backyard, I found an oil filter cartridge assy. This assembly does not need an "oil coolant cooler" sitting on top. (no need for a coolant gasket either) The only gasket was the one used on this unit to the engine block. Note: for yrs, I had been having a problem with the "engine light on this vehicle". Replacing the "airflow sensor" only worked for a day. Removing the "engine light" would cause the engine to "stumble and hesitate". Leaving the "annoying" engine light the vehicle ran like a charm. After the removal of the "coolant assy and the replacement of the filter assy, the "engine light" has remained off and the vehicle runs like a charm. Saved my spouse hundreds of dollars on the repairs, but, the CREDIT goes to my son. I hope this will help someone.

I have attemted this repair several times with no luck. I am an ASE Master Tech and have worked for GM for many years so I am far from inexperienced. The mating service was cleaned and degreased. I used the 15 dollar Permatex Sealer as recommended and once I start the car it blows right past the sealer even after letting cure for 5 hours the 3rd time. It will start and run for a minute and then start leaking. I knew I should went with the aftermarket gasket but I just knew this would work. It made since that it would. Do not waste your time on this repair. Just get the aftermarket gasket Trust me it will save you some frustration

So glad I found this video! Thank you so much for posting. I have ordered the gasket, and my mechanic says he can replace it for about $100. You saved me $600!

Great videos . This just happened to my wifes 2007 mazda 5. This method will work !!!! if you cannot wait for the gasket that ebay sells to work, even with that gasket id throw some permatex just to make sure it seals. Theres only one thing I think that people are doing wrong when they say it did not work for them; although the 1 min gasket is great , theres no way it will make a stong enough gasket for the oil cooler just because theres alot of pressure that goes through there, for water pumps and oil pans , yes , but with the cooler no. This took 3 times for me to get it to work because i did not allow the proper healing time for the gasket. I let it dry overnight at room temp about 65 to 70 and the next day the I checked the excess permetax that come out a bit when you tighten the bolt and it was stong. the other two times it just leaked worse and you could hear air escaping and once i took it apart the permatex was still not cured enough for this particular set-up mazda did. Let it dry for 24 hours and it will work ! and one other thing,when tightening to oil cooler to the filter housing unit , try not to let it move alot, there is some play there but if it moves alot you may not get a good seal. I put the bolt first through the oil cooler first with the gasket on and the permatex applied and aligned it to the filter unit so i would not misalign it and just would be sliding the oil cooler around trying to line up the bolt hole.

Nice work mate saved yourself probably 1000s

I'm so glad you posted this ... I'm sure it took some time. Thanks so much!

Thanks for a great video on How-To !!! Excellent work making the video...

The real key it to get it perfectly clean and be precise with your sealant. Brake cleaner works well to get off the oil residue. I'd let it cure or sit at room temp for 12 hrs if possible. Also try to locate where your leak actually occurred as you disassemble it, that way you can be sure to give that some extra attention. Or maybe, you might find that something else is causing it. Good luck!

The EBay seal is still holding strong on mine months later. It will last atleast 50,000 miles because it is identical to the original one that went bad. $46.00 on EBay it is not the seal that is just an Oring, it is exactly like the one you remove. Mine is still holding strong and will continue to.

Thank you so much just have this problem and your tutorial is great bro.

Right now you are my hero. I just replaced mine and it worked great. Only issue was that top bolt. I recommend using a 10 mm, 1/4 rachet with a flexible extention. Also, you can purchase an after market gasket for $30 that needs to be torqued to 21 pound/feet. Thanks again for making the video. I have limited talents with a wrench and you made this possible.

Thanks for sharing - will try this.

Thanks for this video man, is very helpful.

Question - it's 5 years on now, how about an update on how successful this was?

Thank you great video!

Thanks for everyone's feedback. It's been almost 1 year to date since I repaired this with the method shown!!! :) It is still completely dry after about 25k more miles on the car. Please note, this is the first and only time I did this repair. Many times I find that there is a cheaper, and/or faster way of repairing something. I don't want to spend tons of money on overpriced parts, and sometimes I don't have time to wait on the parts. I need to come up with a creative solution that will get it going quickly for a reasonable cost. Of course you have to weigh the price/ time factor and any of my "experimental" repairs may not be successful. When I posted this I only found one possible aftermarket gasket option and it did not look like it would fit for sure, so I just took it apart to see if there would be another solution. To answer a few questions and concerns.... Yes you will have to drain the coolant, but when the connected hoses it will flow out so be ready with a container to catch it in. Take of the lowest hose firs off the car, not the cooler assembly. Torque spec for the bolts through the cooler to the engine block are about 18-20ft lbs, but I didn't use a torque wrench. Since there have been some mixed results with this repair; I'd suggest taking extra care to clean the surfaces with something like brake cleaner that removes oily residue before applying the sealant. It's very important to be sure the surface is perfectly clean. Also when applying the bead of sealant you need to be sure its a completely continuous line.

Thanks alot.

These are great vids; I was able to get a local source for the gasket which should save me $550 compared to estimate! Just to be sure, though: you drained the engine coolant before starting, right? Otherwise it seems that you'd end up with it flooding out of the oil cooler water inlet.

Thanks for the video! Is it still holding for you?

Just a thought about the gasket gel. Do you think it would stick and interfere with the little wheel in the center of the gasket from turning or spinning after the gasket sealant dries?

great video. Do you have about replace the belts for the same car mazda 5 2006 because I try it I can't it has 2 one large and one small. THANK YOU FOR YOUTIME

I am a little bit confused here because my Mazda is a 2008 Mazda 3 Hatch Back 2.3 liter engine sort of the same with this one except for the fact that yours is Mazda 5 but my own Mazda does not have the black piece that is at the top of the silver piece which supposedly is the oil cooler but the electrical connector is just connected to the side of the silver piece that houses the oil filter. Now this keeps me wondering if there is the possibility that the oil filter assembly are made differently according to different models. Thanks and your assistance will be appreciated .

Thanks very helpful :)

What's the torque specs for the middle bolt on the oil cooler? I plan to replace my speed3 2008 OC with the updated version, got the bolt and gasket too. Thanks

Its been a year almost.How is this repair holding out? I have same issue

can this problem cause your Mazda to heat up?

Will it work for a 2008 Mazda CX7? Also did you have to refill the entire coolant since you removed those coolant hoses?

Hello Sir My Mazda5 2006 2L diesel smokes after starting and the smell is entering the cabin through the air vents. What the problem might be? I need help Thank you in advance

Has this worked long-term. Too, there is a gasket replacement for the newer model of the 5. However, I have a 2006 and the gasket is not replaceable. They changed the design later, I assume, because this was such a chronic problem. Again, wanted to know if this is still working.

I got parts from Rock auto. How do you get at the bolts? 2 are easy and 2 are buried.. That said, I can get a wrench on the top. I discovered mine was loose and tightened it up, hoping the leak would seal but I still have a minor leak. Can I just remove the top can and leave the main cooler body in place?Mine is an 08 m5...

today's day was he'll for me I went to all auto parts in ct and day don't sale this gasket I found napa auto parts special other $23 dolars but for the time I have to wait for the new one I use the old one and use black electric tape and made a new gasket is working fine for now to I get the new one on 2 days

What is the torque spec cooler to housing bolt?

how long has it been and is it still working for you? i have done this 3 times myself and only last a month or so

I ended up buying a new cooler out of boston mass area from a Mazda dealer with new bolt. Was 330 shipped and got in 3 days. I ordered the gasket and it had leaked more. It is made for the new silver coolers not the old black. Was tired of changing over and over and was worth it for new one. They have replaceable gasket that they should have had in the first place If you want name of dealer let me know

Where do u live

It is not convenient to apply silicone..y that area..cause any piece of dryed silicone..can loose and block an oil conduct.

**DO NOT DO THIS!!!** On the Mazda forums someone tried this and it failed miserably, it’s best to get the updated oil cooler (I ordered it with gasket and bolt for $150) or if you are feeling brave you can get the Chinese clone for $35. Either way this is a bad idea to make your own gasket and get rtv chunks in your engine! When it comes to cars especially parts that involve oil circulation it is not a good idea to cut corners and go cheap!!!

This may sound pretty stupid but would it be better to buy an eBay gasket rather than a squirter sealant?

You should.not being giving auto motive advice. Started the car right after the gasket maker was applied wtf were u thinking

Thank you I appreciate it