Great to hear your peach tree is doing well after that Daniel. We will watch ours and hope for the same!

Glad you enjoyed it, Happy New Year!

Ha! Yeah, I agree when it comes to fungus on the trees. In the soil, ok. But not up on the branches!!

Hey Carolle! I'm glad you're enjoying the drone footage. With the cooler weather we should be able to incorporate it more often as it tends to overheat on hot days.

Hey guys! It's pretty common to see some Gummosis on trees, but this is the first time we've had it occur this badly on a tree. Sorry to hear about your grandma's trees!

Hey Kylan! It's pretty common to get this on trees, but this is the first time we've had it happen this badly. Usually we can just peal away the sap and the tree quickly dries the damaged area, but this was too much.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm this is one reason I love you channel! Trees, or fruit trees in Arizona! I am learning SO MUCH from you guys!! And THANK YOU for all the content!

Glad you found this one useful!

Glad you found this one useful Zak!

Glad you enjoyed this one and found it useful Abdul!

Hey Pamela! Glad you enjoyed the video and learned something!

Great notes here. You can tell you have some experience with this!

Thank you!!

Probably not as often as we should... We try to walk the trees at least once a week, but not necessarily inspect each one.

Were you able to get it off? How is the tree doing now?

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm I talked to a guy at the nursery and he told me to make a copper paste and apply once I removed the sap. The tree is fine but wish I had known about the tree paint you used instead. Hopefully the peaches won't be harmed or me eating them from using the copper. I only used 2 tablespoons once.

@@putinhynes3848 I imagine you'll be just fine. This will give you an organic option next time around if you see it happening again.

The stuff works really good. We've been very happy with it so far and it's good to hear you're seeing the same success!

Oh wow, that is a bummer. We do get it from time to time, but only on a few of our trees and not enough to kill any of them. Where are you finding viking root stock trees?

Hey David. Yes, this tree is alive and well. Thriving actually and because it grows so aggressively it's almost completely healed over the trunk area we had to scrape away.

This tree is doing really good. It set fruit this year and has healed over very nicely. I'll try to get an update on it with one of our vlogs here soon!

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Great, glad you were able to save it! I ended up loosing a peach tree.

@@LisaLavoldFoote ah man, I'm sorry to hear that. It always sucks to lose a fruit tree and peaches are one of our favorites!

Hey Kelly. At this point, I would wait for the paint to come in. A few days won't make a big difference and we prefer to cover the large open wound just to be safe.

As long as it's not around the entire circumference of the trunk you should be ok to remove the gummosis much like we show here.

This is a really good question and I can't say for sure. However, the IV Organics plant guard is not very thick, so it would be a better option than traditional trunk paint made from latex paint. I'll link to it for you here, so you can check it out, but be sure to use our discount code (EONFARM) if you decide to give it a shot; ivorganics.com/product/3-in-1-plant-guard/ You may want to try it on a portion of the trunk that faces directly towards the sun to see how it flowers through the paint. This way you still have uncovered bark around the rest of the tree. 😉

Hey Richard. Sorry to hear you're experiencing the same problem. It's pretty common on stone fruit and as long as you catch it early and can stop further damage the trees recover well. This tree set a decent crop of fruit and looks great right now.

Hey there Morgan. Now is a good time to get this taken care of while the tree is dormant and not pushing sap. If you know you're going to have a few days of dry weather it would be ideal, so the wound has some time to heal before it sees moisture.

It's still the same process for the trunk of the tree. Hopefully it's not occurring around the entire trunk as it can girdle the tree.

my cherry tree has gummy then search .. look chop off q brunch then I saw bores 😢11-27

@@cherryly1532 one of the products we use to help fight off insects and other pests is IV Organics 3-in1 Plant Guard. It may help with your boring insects. If you decide to use that, you can use our discount code EONFARM at checkout for 10% off. I'll link to the product for you here; ivorganics.com/product/3-in-1-plant-guard/

Really sorry to hear about that cherry tree. We wind up dealing with this most seasons and sometimes we don't catch it in time either.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm can we plant something else there? Or is it an infected area? The problem is I need something to go there since it’s the middle of a bed. Can the soil be treated to prevent spread?

@@InfinityHealthPilates It's hard to say for sure what happened to the tree as many things can cause this. There are certain fungus and bacterial infections that only effect certain types of trees. For example, Texas root rot only effects stone fruit, so planting a pome fruit (apple or pear) in the same spot wouldn't be an issue. Also, certain root stocks are bred to be resistant to specific diseases. Either way, if Gummosis is what caused the tree to die, your best bet is planting something other than stone fruit.

I want to make sure I understand correctly, there is a split in the trunk, but there is new growth above the split? If that's the case you may want to see if new growth appears below the split, but above the graft point and eventually cut back to just above that new growth (but below the split). Citrus trees are not prone to gummosis, so I'm assuming the split is the main concern?

@EdgeofNowhereFarm sorry if I didn't explain properly! So I grew my lemon tree to the point it is now. It's still very young, so it's appearance is more plant like than tree at this point in time. I've not altered the plant at all (grafting on otherwise) so it has just grown a single shoot. Recently, a tiny crack/split has appeared on the stem and the amber sap is coming out of that split. The plant has still been growing despite the split and there is new leaves still appearing above. My question is how would I treat this because the stem isn't thick enough for me to cut a portion out of it with it collapsing. Do I still try or do I have to cut the whole stem off and hope that I can still get some new growth after? I hope that make things more clear! And thank you for the response!!!

@@weyash ah, ok. Well, this is completely up to you. With a tree this small it can get stressed quite easily. You can either wait and see or make a drastic cut to see if it will recover.

Hey Andrew. We have not had to treat gummosis below the soil line before, but I'm curious as to the planting depth on your tree. Are you able to see the root flare at or above the soil line? Trees planted a bit too deep will have some additional stress which may be part of the issue your facing. Either way, yes you can treat any part of the trunk and/or branching on the tree with the same process we're using here. We haven't done an update on this tree, but it has almost completely healed over after this year's growth.

Thanks for responding and happy to hear you’ve had success! I try to be careful about planting too deeply but that may be the issue here. I’ve moved some of the soil away and will order the IV organics.

@@andrewhiemstra6056 let us know how this goes for you.

@@andrewhiemstra6056 we’re you able to save it? I’m having the same issue!

It is doing fantastic. Took our first large harvest from this tree this past Spring which lead to about 3 gallons of plum wine when combined with a couple other varieties. You can hardly tell there was ever an issue as it has grown over the damaged area.

Awesome to hear it is producing for ya. Having follow-ups to this type of video can go a long way in giving others (like me) facing similar situations hope! Thanks for the update!

We have not tried that before. Typically our issue here is wood boring pests that cause the sap to leak as opposed to fungus, but it may be a solid option.

Great info here, thank you!

use a make if you reperator spray it.... I didn't ended up in the ER

We do need to give an update on this one, but it is doing well. Full of fruit and healed over well. Fingers crossed we don't see a reoccurrence this Summer!

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Glad to hear that because one of my almonds have just the same, gummosis. Then I will try to apply the same. Thank you 😊 💓

@@MkhSoussa this is definitely best to catch and treat early. We just had another commentor who has their entire base of the tree cacked in sap and they may lose the whole thing!

It depends on what is causing it. If it's a disease of some sort you'll need to treat the tree for that disease. If it's a pest, we've found the product we use in this video (IV Organics 3-in-1 Plant Guard) does well at repelling those. As we show in this video, you'll want to remove the dead/decaying bark first and then apply the protectant. You can re-apply it as often as needed until the gummosis is under control.

Sorry to hear about your fruit trees. We see gummosis on some of our stone fruit trees off and on throughout the growing season. Most of ours are caused by damage from woodpeckers and other pests, although sometimes it seems to come out of nowhere. It could be wood borers that are causing the damage and the tree is reacting by releasing extra sap into the wound. Either way, cleaning the area of the damaged bark/cambium layer will help keep the wound from spreading. We've had larger trees lose up to 50% of the circumference of the tree to gummosis damage and still do just fine after getting it under control. I will say, I HIGHLY recommend using the IV Organics 3-in1 paint to put over the wound after you clean it out. We have not lost a tree to this since we started using that to cover the damage. If you do choose that route, be sure to use our discount code EONFARM at checkout for 10% off.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm I did! I bought two of them, upon checking the trees they have sap but they don’t actually have holes to dig anything out or space for a larvae to be in it. I also noticed that the mulch I used on the trees has a LOT of termites, do you think that by any chance the termites may have causing the the sap? Thanks again!

@@yaima0901 It's not going to be termites as we have them throughout our mulch as well. They eat dead/decaying wood which is why you're seeing them in the mulch (and why they like to munch on houses!). In fact, seeing them in the mulch is a good thing as they are part of the breaking down of that material which eventually creates healthy soil. As long as you don't have any dead material on the trunk before sealing it you should be ok. We have treated a few trees more than once, so just keep an eye on the wound for any additional sap and re-treat as necessary.

​@@EdgeofNowhereFarmThe woodpeckers are going for the borers in the tree.

Hey Yasha. Having bark "split" on many types of trees is completely normal. These plum trees for example will eventually have very rough bark from it "splitting" over time. Are you seeing any sap leak out from the splits you're seeing?

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm yes, I have a three year old peach that looks full and green. On one of the three main laterals at the base there is splitting about two inches long with sap. Also sap coming out in a few spots below this stress point where there is not any damage at all. Almost looks like a canker but could also be growing too fast? I really dont want to cut the branch because the tree will be severely misshapen.

@@yasharenner6681 hmm. It's possible that it's growing too fast, but that would surprise me. We get a few feet of growth on most of our stone fruit here and do not see that. Is there any decay to the bark or cambium where you're seeing the sap?

Unless the gummosis is all the way around the trunk, I wouldn't give up on your tree quite yet. We have had up to 50% of the circumference taken out by gummosis only to rebound and still produce.

Now that's a good question. I imagine it would be the same as those apples I think I remember you trying. It does need some chill hours, but not much.

Yeah, the Appletree died but I think I’m gonna try the wonderful and it self pollinates, right

@@matolabrown6832 well, that's a bummer. I think the main issue you're going to face with grafted trees like this will be the soil the root stocks are expecting to deal with. Usually the low chill varieties are for desert type areas that experience regular drought conditions, so the root stocks are expecting a dry environment...not exactly what I remember your property looking like!! As for variety, are you talking about the Wonderful pomegranate or another stone/pome fruit?

Right? Usually it's not a problem, but this was a bit much and we didn't want to take any chances.

How frustrating... How do you deal with them?

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm I plant garlic and onions at the base of the tree. It’s that it or spray and I don’t care for chemicals on my trees.

@@breakingburque2200 we're right there with you on that. We were happy to have an organic option to try with it this time around.

Great question. The sap is initially a protective measure when there is a wound on the tree. However, in situations like this it actually starts to decay the cambium layer of the tree underneath the bark. If left untreated, the tree can girdle and eventually die as it continues to eat away at it's ability to shuttle nutrients from the roots to the canopy.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm I'm concerned because it is a very young stella cherry and is on the trunk

@@fullTimeVeganinOhio If it's really young it can actually be a benefit as the tree has plenty of time to grow over the wound that is being created.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm do you care if I send you a picture link to click on and look at it?

@@fullTimeVeganinOhio our email address is on the about tab here on KZfaq, so send it on over and I'll do my best to help.

Yeah, I'm really not sure. I think the key is what the cause of the gummosis is. For us here it's typically physical damage to the trunk that causses it, so our treatments are designed to seal the wound and deter the pests.

How old was this tree that you lost?

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm it was its first year in the ground. Purchased from Lowes and it actually gave us eight super sweet white peaches

@@puckjohn ah ok. That's one of the challenges to having a root stock that may not be ideal. Gummosis is pretty common and as long as the tree is growing strongly it can outpace any damage that it may cause. Bummer on that tree!

Hey Caroline. I just need to verify a couple of things. How old/big is the tree? You mentioned it's going all the way around the trunk at the base, is it below the graft point?

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm I would say the tree is probably 8-10 years old if I had to guess. It was already planted when we bought our house 5 years ago, but didn’t produce any fruit until last year. And I’m not sure what you mean by graft point. Our tree is surrounded by ivy that is probably 1’ tall. I moved the ivy away from the base of the tree when I was inspecting it and that’s where I found (what I’m assuming is) gummosis. The base of the tree has a coating of reddish/orange slime that covers basically the entire base of the tree and surrounding dirt under the ivy.

@@carolinesmith4568 hmm, ok that complicates things a bit. The ivy is probably where the problem started as it can allow fungus to infect the tree. Once that takes hold it can damage the bark and get into the tree, infecting the tree itself. If left untreated it can damage enough of the bark on the tree to kill the tree. While I don't know whether or not it can be salvaged, at this point I would keep the ivy away to allow everything to completely dry and see if the sap stops leaking. The treatment you're seeing us do with this tree is the process you would use, but if the tree is damaged all the way around the trunk you may wind up losing the tree as it is essentially girdled. It is possible that the tree can re-grow if the damage is above the graft point (where the root stock meets the known variety of peach). The problem with a tree this old is you may not be able to easily tell where the graft point is as it heals over with time and tree growth. I'll see if I can find a video where we show a graft point on a younger tree. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pqp5h8horcerl5c.html

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Thank you!! This has been extremely helpful. I’ll do what I can with our tree and hope for the best!

Hmm. I'm not sure what's happening with that. We've had folks tell us that in the past and we couldn't find an issue, but I'll check the settings on our end to make sure it's still going out.

As long as it's not around the entire circumference you should be ok to use this procedure on it.

Not the roundup! We have a viewer who planted a large orchard outside of town and is debating whether or not to use it for weed control. I'm encouraging him to reconsider and he's not wanting to do it, but he has to travel to get to the orchard and the weed growth is intense. I'm hoping he hangs in there and continues to use natural means (like vinegar, etc).

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Zackly! but, why use anything? Most weeds are annuals with a definite timeline to reproduce or die. A goosefoot harrow is very shallow and cut the weed off at the crown. That leaves most standing and acts as an airy mulch. When roots rot, that's humus. This place is small enough to cultivate with a shovel. Low covers like red purslane (a native) grows all over and is shallow-rooted. BTW, it's also called sow belly, because pigs will stuff themselves with it and get chubby. some mallow is allowed, but never much because it takes over as you saw. One cut thru the crown and that deep tap root is humus. If I had pigs or chickens, weeds are a ready, high protein, nutrient dense source of good feed.

@@marschlosser4540 we've seen that with our pigs as well (with the weeds). If it's green they're pretty much all over it.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Before plowing down the (by now weedy) clover in the fall, Dad always ran cattle and pigs on it for the summer. Both will get fat on it. Turkeys, wow! The best turkey or chicken I ever ate was pastured on clover. Jaindl (pronounced Jendal) used to be all pasture reared (starting in 1933-1970s) but only pastures partially now. They're the people who supply the White House with turkeys. They're not strictly organic, but working on that.

When you say sap in the fruit, are you saying it looks like crystals all around the outside of the unripe fruit? If so, what kinds of fruit are you seeing it on?