Somebody hold my beer... Let's face it, Blue Jay, all extension offices are not created equally. From what I can discern, they have poured nothing but misinformation into your mind, as almost all of the positions you have taken on this matter are incorrect. I have already addressed the first comment you made about extension offices being the only source of helpful information; let me continue highlighting your lack of understanding regarding agronomy and turf management. Iron is a micronutrient required for synthesizing chlorophyll (chlorophyll is the pigment that gives plants their green color). Although, nitrogen does promote the shade of green in your turf. Its primary function is to encourage growth by providing essential nucleic acids, amino acids, and proteins that affect the shoot and root growth of the plant (Landschoot, 2016). Professionals typically use Iron while reducing the volume of overall nitrogen and supplementing with an Iron product to maintain or even achieve a darker green. Most soil applications of Iron from inorganic sources are typically converted to iron hydroxides, iron phosphates, or iron carbonates, which are not readily available to the plant (Landschoot, 2016). This is why my brother Cam stressed the importance of using Chelated Iron (foliar applied) or EDDHA (typically soil-applied) sources of Iron. Another tidbit worth mentioning is that to achieve the full benefits of Iron for color and disease resistance, you want to ensure the ratio of Iron to Manganese is maintained at 3:1 ppm (Stowell & Gelernter, 2008). All of which mentioned above applies to ALL grass types. A caveat is that it is essential to select the appropriate cultivars that carry the desired attributes you are looking for, as stated by my brother Cam. Clay soil: The ideal percentage of organic matter desired in soil profiles for lawns is 2-3%, while agricultural practices are closer to 4-6% (Traunfeld, 2020). Furthermore, although mechanical aeration can expedite the process of integrating more organic matter if needed, it is not necessary. The most important and beneficial thing for clay soil is establishing a stand of turf and a fertilization program that promotes shoot and root development (organic matter). Over time, this will naturally correct and balance itself out. This highlights the importance of a soil test from a reputable and peer-reviewable source based on a measurable scale. Mechanical aeration's primary function is to provide temporary compaction relief to support rapid soil profile manipulation or seed beds for overseeding and renovations. Topdressing with organic materials such as compost is also helpful but does not require mechanical aeration. In my opinion, Blue Jay, you would benefit from learning more from some KZfaqrs and reading more scholarly articles outside your extension office. Unfortunately, I feel they are leading you astray. I completed the Master Gardeners program via the Maryland Extension office and wholeheartedly recommend the staff of Harford County as a reputable source of information if you continue to prefer extensions as your preferred source for information. Where's my beer? ✌🏾🌱 Scholarly References Landschoot, P. (2016, November 10). Turfgrass fertilization: A basic guide for professional turfgrass managers. Penn State Extension. Retrieved October 16, 2022, from extension.psu.edu/turfgrass-fertilization-a-basic-guide-for-professional-turfgrass-managers Strowell , L., & Gelernter, W. (2008, September 10). Prevent turf disease with manganese: Sportsfield management. SportsField Management | News & Information for Sports Field & Facilities Managers. Retrieved October 16, 2022, from sportsfieldmanagementonline.com/2008/09/11/prevent-turf-disease-with-manganese/4142/ Traunfeld, J. (2020, November). Organic matter and soil amendments. Organic Matter and Soil Amendments | University of Maryland Extension. Retrieved October 16, 2022, from extension.umd.edu/resource/organic-matter-and-soil-amendment

@@TurfTherapy My extension service is chaired by a soil scientist. Enough said. Iron. I can equally provide you with peer reviewed studies about iron. While chelated iron is better because the iron is part of N amino acid for the most part iron is not mobile in soil and is not absorbed into the foliage because it’s a huge molecule. Iron uptake is dictated by reduced chemical conditions therefore adding iron is useless because the vast majority of soil has excess iron already. The green pop from the iron boutique fertilizers is typically from urea. I’m not reading your treatise on organic matter. As someone who has worked in turf management for 40 + years I stand by what works. I also stand by my statement that YT lawn care for the most part is sold by people who have zero qualifications and zero science backed evidence. IMO if you want to destroy your soil microbiology follow the vast majority of YT lawn authorities

Please provide your cited sources when you have time. Rambling self-proclaimed prophets that cannot support their unfounded, misleading, or incomplete claims with cited sources have no value here.

@@TurfTherapy I’m not getting into a pissing contest with a person without a degree in soil science. Just randomly found a reference from someone I respect. Iron Chlorosis in Turfgrass Dr. Richard L. Duble Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist Texas A&M University “On alkaline soils, the recommended rates of application need to be increased to 2 or 3 times the lower recommended rates presently shown on product labels. As a homeowner, I would be disappointed in the observed response to lowest rates of application. Even at the 2x rate the observed response was disappointing. Also, it was significant to note that improvements in color with iron applications did not correspond to increases in grass clippings produced.” Although this was based on alkaline or high pH soil nite that iron absorption is only viable for acidic conditions plus other factors like organic matter, moisture etc Problem with you is you listen to only what product representatives and YT nerds say.’ My recommendation to you is go to school and learn about turf management. You should start YT content by providing your credentials. I don’t see a doctor who learned learned surgery from other YT influencers

@@bluejay3945 You made a lot of assumptions about my level of education and where I sourced my information. Also, your last post leaves me questioning whether you watched the video. Lastly, your poorly cited source only further proved my point, even though it was just an opinion and not based on science; it is merely an opinion. You are doing a terrible job of defending your uneducated views and position on turf management. And I am concerned for your clients. Not sure why you are even on my channel if you don't like lawn care KZfaqrs. I honestly feel bad for you, buddy. I'm going to leave this here as an example for any other cranky old timers that can’t stand the fact that they aren't the smartest in the room. ✌️🏾🌱

My Guy 😎 We Workin 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾

Long term community supporter. Watched it evolve to this and very happy to see people are bringing it to light. Content creators have been blocking comments for years now. Guess Super isnt as bad as they made this long term supporter appear to be. Love it. Let's keep this going.before it's all lawn infomercials. 👍

thanks man I appreciate that 💪🏾🌱

2 Lawn Care guys that keep it allll the way real!

@@Chi-TownToon I second that!

Thanks Battle! 💪🏾🇺🇸🌱

Glad to have you here! I'll buy that hydrogen peroxide hack for a dollar. I just might give it a try 😎🌱

I appreciate you fam 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🌱

🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾 THANK YOU FOR BEING HERE!

Blessing to you as well brother! 💪🏾🌱

Thanks Battle! 💪🏾✌️🏾🌱

Yeah, bro, just let it mature a bit. I bet you will see the color shift sooner than you think. Just feed the lawn as usual.

😂🤣 He sure is! Thanks for coming by Sis ❤️🌱

Glad to see you in the comments, brother! I hope all is well with you and I’m glad you enjoyed the video 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾🌱

I think we are addicted to immediate gratification as a society. But my core values keep me grounded. I love to learn and I like to help others. If they don't, I'm simply not the content creator for them.

I am a new homeowner trying to figure out to take care of my lawn on a reasonable budget since it’s 2.5 acres. I am soo confused bc of all the lawn hype videos and keep wasting money. I would love a straight forward basics KZfaq channel

😆🤣😂✌️🏾🌱

That's awesome, Grace! I'm glad it's working out for you this season ❤️🌱

That video is coming soon! Thanks for watching ✌️🏾🌱

I appreciate you! ✊🏾🌱

😂✊🏾🌱

Bishop T.T

@@PoloFieldsLawnService true story

@@PoloFieldsLawnService not the Bishop TT Jakes 😭😂😭😂

Awesome! There's always the spring which is perfect for touch-up seeding.

Nice!

I can support the Bermuda statement wholeheartedly and the KBG if the areas aren’t greater than 4-6 inches for sure. Thanks for watching until the end! ✌️🏾🌱

Agreed! It's Da Money 😉🌱

We Workkinnnnnn 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾

Bermuda may be the only exception for a fall nitrogen blitz replacing an overseed. But it seems as if you have done both. Happy to hear you have solid results, but be careful with that much nitrogen this late in the season, as whatever is remaining in the soil once it goes into dormancy will only feed the fall weeds. Also, it's worth noting my comments were directed to cool-season lawns just for clarity. Thanks for watching! 😄✌️🏾🌱

Yeah, fall nitro blitz is working for me, it’s looking great compared to 4 weeks ago, might need seed in a couple of spots but overall, I am happy☺️.

😉💪🏾🌱

Great question. I have not seen any fratricide in my lawn because of this particular blend. It may be prevalent with specific cultivars, though. This lawn is only six months old, so I'll keep an eye out for this and will make a video about it if it does. Thanks for watching!

💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾

Thanks for the feedback! Glad you enjoyed it 💪🏾🌱

Glad to have you 💪🏾🌱

Glad you enjoyed it, brother 💪🏾🌱

Complacency kills my brother! 💪🏾🌱

Will do! I'll cover this topic over the off-season. Thanks for watching!

So what’s the harm? Theoretically, the only harm is wasted money due to lack of understanding in fundamental agronomy. You can apply Iron as much as you want but if don’t take the time to choose a quality seed it’s wasting money by chasing color. And as my man Cam said, all Iron products are not created equally. That’s just a fact. I guess shame on us for trying to educate and give rather than perform a slight of hand and get a sell.

Will do! I'll cover this during the offseason this year! Thanks for watching 💪🏾🌱

You should aim for that late spring next year. We will have lives discussing warm season grass this winter 😎✌️🏾🌱

Thanks, Joe! Glad you like it🌱

Is your lawn predominantly Bermuda? If so, I would maintain it at a lower height of cut and kill the fescue. I am trying to put together why you would cut your lawn at its highest cut before I can give you the best advice.

@@TurfTherapy So I overseeded with tall fescue in the early spring and I actually now think it’s just a ton of stolons. I’ve only been cutting off the top part and I’ve gotten the best results this year. The yard has never looked thicker and prettier! So I would say it’s mostly fescue.

For Sure! Whichever way you need to get it done go for it. Just wanted it to be clear that Nitrogen does not fix a lawn that needs an overseed.

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You know, I’m trying my best out here, brother 💪🏾🌱

Hey buddy unfortunately yeah at times it does. Yeah I usually reel mow but because of the worm castings,I’ve switched back to rotary for the time being. When I was reel mowing, I had the front and back at 4/10” and the side at 6/10”. Thanks for watching mAn 💪🏾🌱

I'm sure someone has somewhere, but that's a bad idea. It's better to mix it with a few varieties because clover doesn't stand up to foot traffic well.

@@TurfTherapy Good deal! I just noticed that I wasn't using as much fertilizer in the back yard that has clover interspersed in with TTTF stays greener vs the front yard that is purely TTTF and Kentucky blue that requires frequent water and light monthly fertilizing

@@ea9373 Yea, if you don't mind the clover, it is a way. Not for everyone of course. Thanks for watching man ✌️🏾🌱

Glad you enjoyed it! I appreciate you taking the time to drop me a line of encouragement 💪🏾🌱

I understand your position. I think the main benefit of aerating before seeding outside of temporarily relieving compaction is to create an excellent alternative for creating a seedbed for contractors and professionals with a lot of residential accounts. It would take them, on average, 2-3 times longer to dethatch and remove debris from lawns if they were to go that route. And when it comes to how much seed ends up buried too deep, I think for the amount of seed that is typically spread, it's a negligible risk worth taking for the odds of how many seeds end up nested in the 3/4” holes. I like your critical thinking none the less brother, and thanks for watching the video until the end 💪🏾✌️🏾🌱

Change your mowing pattern every other mow, and don't mow while the ground is over-saturated. They are only temporary.

Glad you enjoyed it! Video managing clay soil is coming soon 🤙🏾🌱

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We Workin

Exactly! Just have to trust the process. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 💪🏾🌱

Also depends on the grass type. Some seeds take longer or it could be rhizomes doing their magic.

@@IamMugs Yep, which is why I favor having a little kbg. A great knitter.

Much appreciated!

Thanks big dawg 💪🏾🌱

You're welcome ✌️🏾🌱

Thanks bruh! 😉💪🏾🌱

I'm glad you enjoyed the content, and I hope you decide to hang around! Not sure what the motives are, but if I was a betting man “It's Da Money” 😉🌱

Great question, and I’d like to caveat with this is just my opinion. I think for most people, it's not worth the time to pre-germinate. It's an easy process to mess up from germinating to spreading. Along with that, these newer cultivars are germinating much faster than what the label says on the bag when ideal conditions are met. But I think it has its place for sure. When trying to repair dog spots or ensure adequate time for grow-in before stressful climate conditions arise, I think it is a useful hack, but it has it's cons for sure. I hope this helps and remember this is just my opinion on the matter. ✌️🏾🌱

I respect your opinion and perspective on the last comment/tip, especially since I did not define what my take on “adequate die-off” would resemble. For instance, if you have areas that are 6” inches in diameter or less and you have spreading cultivars, I'd say you should be ok with pushing growth, but anything more than that when dealing with cool-season lawns, I’d say, is a No-Go at this station. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching until the end 🤙🏾✌️🏾🌱

@@TurfTherapy ... true. That being said I have a test plot around 1800 sf in heavy shade. I used Bella kbg plugs. .. does very well in the shade. They recommended 6", or 12" or 18" spacing...I placed at 24" on center(I'm chesp). . After 1 full season the spacing has closed half the distance....I anticipate season 2 will fill in. I do spoon feed that area every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. I have another heavy shade (700sf) where I planted (seed) Beyond kbg. It's an aggressive spreader. I've got a few bear areas 2 to 3sf. If i can control the weeds this upcoming year... im going to see if the 'spread' fills the holes. I will be seeding some areas in the bigger sun areas come spring where the nitrogen blitz didn't work this year

@@jcs1758 Yea, bro, you have a lot more patience than the average novice these days, and the way the information I was referring to was presented was a quick and fast solution with misleading results. I'd say you both have a healthy approach and expectations of results. I commend you for exercising such tenacity and patience 💪🏾✌️🏾🌱

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I've never seen Black Ultra Beauty in person and haven't ever read a label on a bag, so it's hard to say. I typically avoid products with “Magic” or “Miracle” in its description. It tends to be usually misleading. I would always start with a soil test that uses the Mehlich3 method. Ryan Knorr provides a solid one that's easy to interpret.

In short, this is a lie. I hate when people are so absolute about things. I immediately question the authenticity of the information as soon as it's spewed out. Of course, it is beneficial to recycle your clippings as much as possible and not bagging. But at the same time, if you were constantly recycling your clippings, you stand the chance of building up a Thatch layer thicker than a quarter inch. Once any lawn develops an organic thatch layer thicker than the quarter inch it can become detrimental to the lawn itself. Blocking water, penetration, and preventing nutrients from reaching the soil. You’ll know once your thatch layer has met this thickness because your ground will feel almost squishy like a sponge or by pulling a plug and inspecting it for yourself. I hope this helps you and thanks for watchin! ✌️🏾🌱

@@TurfTherapy Thanks for the reply. Problem is, down here, everyone seems to be an expert but when you ask detailed questions no one has any real answers. We get more rain down here yearly than any other county in the entire country so the grass always seems "spongy". I'll pull a core and check. Is the Spring or Fall the right time to de-thatch ? Also, I'll subscribe to ANYONE who has a yard that looks like yours and is offering content on how to help mine look similar !! Thanks again

Where are you, and what type of grass are you trying to grow?

@@TurfTherapy I’m living in New York more specifically Long Island. I want to plant turf type tall fescue. I’m super new to the whole grass care process.

@@devindrasingh913 Ok perfect. First off. I'd recommend going with a Rye/KBG being that far north. You're going to need to spray again, most likely, so find your average last frost date and work from there. As soon as your soil temperatures hit 55° for 5-7 days, make your first application. Wait 2-3 weeks, then make your second application and seed on the same day (apply the glyphosate last, obviously, and skip watering for the first 24hrs). I recommend getting some mesotrione down to help manage the weeds. If you use mesotrione, apply that 2-3 days after seeding and second glyphosate application and water it in (no surfactant needed). I'll do a video on this late winter as well. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching.

@@TurfTherapy thank you, I’ll look into the rye more, I want the lawn to withstand summer better than my last grass. I appreciate the help.

@@devindrasingh913 They've done some fantastic things with these newer cultivars. And the rye/kbg mix will hold up better for the rest of the year, IMO. You can go with TTTF, though, but I would get a blend with some KBG in it as well.

Absolutely brother! I was referring to the people saying XXXX “insert product” is what you need in order to help your seed germinate-strictly focusing on germination here. But after germination, of course, it needs adequate nutrients to thrive. Thanks For Watching ✌️🏾🌱

Sounds like you’re subscribed to some good KZfaqrs that aren’t spreading information!

Thank You! 💪🏾🌱

Thanks man. I appreciate the feedback and thanks for watching 💪🏾🌱

Nice! I hope you enjoy the content 💪🏾🌱

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! 🤙🏾🌱

Bless your heart

😂🤣 I hear you, brother! Maybe one day, I'll have enough plots to run a 100% KBG 💪🏾🌱

Thanks brotha 💪🏾✌️🏾🌱

Thanks man glad you enjoyed it ✌️🏾🌱

Thanks Bruh Bruh! 💪🏾🌱

😂😂😂

That’s a fair point but also an assumed variable to the overall point I’m making here obviously.

@@TurfTherapy hey thanks for the reply. You do have a great lawn and I have been watching you this year. 😉 so not all youtube lawn gardeners are lying to me 😉 I would 95% agree with you water is the most important factor. I over seeded last week of August ( Western NY) with a mix of high quality rye and fescue. 6 days I had germination ( no fertilizer) by first week of October its just as lush as yours. The cable company comes by digs up my lawn laying fiber, in the first week of October (arrrggh) i throw the rest of the seed down with some good quality top soil. We are getting 40 degree nights and 15 days later not a single blade. I am an experienced lawn gardener, you have to have those nighttime temperatures above 55. It will germinate but I might not see it until spring.

Absolutely man. I agree that the temperature is important when germinating without a doubt. Heck there are some seeds I can’t get to grow without putting under a stratification process. I am thankful for your support, and man, I hate when the city decides to destroy a lawn 😞 But I think you're correct. You may not see it this fall, but you'll be in great shape in the spring.

I don't. Maybe I'll do one this spring.

Hello 😄✌️🏾🌱

🤣😂🤣 That's funny. Thanks for watching 🤙🏾🌱

You're welcome ❤️🌱

Will do! 🤙🏾🌱

👌🏾

Glad To Help! 💪🏾🌱

Thanks for watching!!! 🌱

Thanks bro 💪🏾🌱

I ordered this seed from Rasenwelt.de

You're very welcome ✌️🏾🌱

What's your current level of organic matter?

@@TurfTherapy I have no clue how to measure it. I know it’s heavy enough clay that it gets super sloppy in the spring and takes multiple days to drain, then once it’s dry it cracks and looks like the salt flats. Those two things make me think heavy clay 🤷

@@joe1071 soil test bro

@@TurfTherapy should’ve know that lol. Thanks for the refresher

@@TurfTherapy what do you do if it’s low organic matter?

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There are a few reasons they may be doing it in the south. Assuming it's Bermuda grass, burning the grass can remove excessive thatch, organic matter, and encourage new tender growth. Thanks for watching 🌱

My Guy 💪🏾✌️🏾🌱

Glad to hear it! 🤙🏾🌱

Nope it’s not Corkky but I’m glad you enjoyed the video!

Say it again for the people in the back!!!

You are very welcome! I love almost all the products from the EcoloGel lineup. FourPlay is a good choice. Based on it's science, it may increase germination based on the moisture holding abilities of hydretain. Let me know how it works out please! 💪🏾🌱

@@TurfTherapy Will do! Will pick-up today. Found a 2.5 gallon container for $206. On the expensive side, but will try it.

Humic does amazing things.

It happens to the best of us, even myself, in the beginning 😞✌️🏾🌱

Preach!!! 💪🏾🌱

Let's Gooo! We Workin 💪🏾🌱